BIOS Thread

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12-21-2008, 03:50 PM
Raa

Hi, i've got this weird problem with my MSI P7N Diamond. I bought all my components new and assembled them a week ago.
When i power up the rig it wont post, it just freezes at the MSI logo. Scanning the internet i found many others with the exact same problem.
Turns out the shipped v1.0 BIOS doesn't support my CPU, v1.2 supports it though. Without a supported CPU i cant update BIOS so i sent an RMA request asking them to update the BIOS.
Just got back my motherboard with updated BIOS, only to realize the problem's just got worse.

Now when i power up the rig it doesn't even send any videosignals to the screen.
Not a sound from any HDD or the little buzzer.
The front panel HDD and Power lights wont light up.
The leds that tell me i've connected the GPU cards, DIMMs etc works. The three leds (HDD, POWER, STANDBY) is constantly on.

I've removed the power cord and BIOS battery overnight, tried every possible combination of single/dual GPU and DIMMs in all of the available connectors.
Im now running the rig with just the essentials, without HDDs etc without success.

If anyone out there has the slightest clue what i could try next, dont hesitate to let me know!

SPECS:

MSI P7N Diamond 780i
Intel Core 2 Duo E8500
2x Kingston DDR2 HyperX PC8500 2gb
2x Gainward Geforce 9800GTX+ SLI
Corsair 620W PSU

http://raa.mine.nu/uploads/raa/bilde...7n_diamond.jpg
12-21-2008, 05:19 PM
yomny

going from your picture above i would suggest to put the ram on the slot closest to the cpu. Other than that i dont want to scare you but i had bad luck with two brand new Asus motherboards not wanting to even post with my hardware.. hope is not your case with your msi and the rest of your hardware
12-21-2008, 05:52 PM
Raa

Quote:

Originally Posted by yomny

going from your picture above i would suggest to put the ram on the slot closest to the cpu. Other than that i dont want to scare you but i had bad luck with two brand new Asus motherboards not wanting to even post with my hardware.. hope is not your case with your msi and the rest of your hardware

I've tried all the different slots, no luck there.
I see, problem is that all my components is supported if you look at the MSI site but it still wont post.

Hard to believe that the problem's either Ram or GPU based since i got videosignal before the BIOS update.
My guess is that there's something wrong with the motherboard in this case. Strange that the dealer ran it without any problems when updating the BIOS though.

Isn't there any diagnostic features on this board?
12-27-2008, 02:03 AM
Bjynne

Have you tried taken it all apart and together again. Are you running 2x2gb memory mayby try just using 1 module. Or try som other memory.
12-30-2008, 09:32 AM
stickboy00

so i disconnected the sli ribbon to test out using a dedicated physx card with the cryostasis tech demo and it appears that sli is still working without the ribbon cable.

?????
12-30-2008, 10:21 PM
x-built-Stan

SLI uses the PCI-E bus in addition to the ribbon cable. It will be very slow, but still work. You need to physically pull a card. We discussed this in several posts earlier this Spring. If you search for SLI you might find them.

Quote:

Originally Posted by stickboy00

so i disconnected the sli ribbon to test out using a dedicated physx card with the cryostasis tech demo and it appears that sli is still working without the ribbon cable.

?????
12-30-2008, 11:40 PM
x-built-Stan

Basic troubleshooting for the MSI P7N Diamond

Raa,

Here is list of things that you can try. I do not have a picture of your rig, so I'll have to make some assumptions.

1) Verify that you have no shorts from the motherboard to case. Everyone thinks it can't happen to them, but it often does. Yes, you can actually short the board without frying it - IEEE gotta love the standards. The result can be a temporary, or permanent, partially functioning board.

A) If you are using an after market CPU cooler or water block: Did it come with a cross strap (usually and X or H shape) that mounts to the underside of the motherboard? If yes, than check it to ensure that it is not shorting to the board. Make sure that all the electrical isolators were installed properly.

B) The motherboard may be shorting to the case. To test this remove the motherboard from the case and place on a non-conductive surface. Connect everything as listed next.

Basic Connections for testing:
Connect one Video card (in the PCI-E slot closest to the CPU), two sticks of ram (in the slots closest to the CPU), and one hard drive. Ensure that the power supply us off and connect power supply to the motherboard. Connect the case speaker to the motherboard. The speaker is needed to listen for any "Beep" codes during post. Do not worry about the power switch, HDD light, etc they are not important. You do not need to connect a keyboard, mouse, or monitor at this time either.

In the lower right hand corner of the motherboard there are 2 switches and 3 LEDs. The switches (red push button) are the CMOS reset (top) and the power switch (bottom). Below the power switch are three LEDs. The red HDD (top), the blue power indicator (middle), and the red power standby (bottom).

1) Turn on the power supply. You should see the red standby led come on.
If this does not happen:

A) Check that the power supply is plugged in and functioning, typically you will hear the fan running. If you think that the power supply may be faulty, use a power supply tester to verify that it is working properly.

B) Check that all power supply connections to the motherboard are properly seated for the 24 pin and 8 pin connectors.

C) If A and B do not help, you probably have a dead board.

2) Start the computer by pressing the power switch on the motherboard. The blue power led (above the standby led) should come on. Additionally, you should see a blue led adjacent to the video card come on, indicating that the video card is getting power. A green led will also light up at the bottom of the RAM indicating that the RAM is getting power. Finally, as the system begins to post the red HDD led above the blue power indicator should start flashing signaling HDD reads.

A) If the ram or video card LEDs do not come. Turn off computer at the power supply and unplug it. Re-seat the component and start the computer again. From your previous post it is doubtful that these components are bad so I won't go into that.

B) Beep codes: When the system posts you will hear one long beep. This is normal and means that all tests passed. Below is a complete list of codes, if you hear anything other than the one long beep.

1 short DRAM refresh failure The programmable interrupt timer or programmable interrupt controller has probably failed
2 short Memory parity error A memory parity error has occurred in the first 64K of RAM. The RAM IC is probably bad
3 short Base 64K memory failure A memory failure has occurred in the first 64K of RAM. The RAM IC is probably bad
4 short System timer failure The system clock/timer IC has failed or there is a memory error in the first bank of memory
5 short Processor error The system CPU has failed
6 short Gate A20 failure The keyboard controller IC has failed, which is not allowing Gate A20 to switch the processor to protected mode. Replace the keyboard controller
7 short Virtual mode processor exception error The CPU has generated an exception error because of a fault in the CPU or motherboard circuitry
8 short Display memory read/write error The system video adapter is missing or defective
9 short ROM checksum error The contents of the system BIOS ROM does not match the expected checksum value. The BIOS ROM is probably defective and should be replaced
10 short CMOS shutdown register read/write error The shutdown for the CMOS has failed
11 short Cache error The L2 cache is faulty
1 long, 2 short Failure in video system An error was encountered in the video BIOS ROM, or a horizontal retrace failure has been encountered
1 long, 3 short Memory test failure A fault has been detected in memory above 64KB
1 long, 8 short Display test failure The video adapter is either missing or defective
2 short POST Failure One of the hardware tests has failed
1 long POST has passed all tests

Let us know how it goes. If the above does not yield results, you might want to RMA the board again.

UPDATE:
A buddy just finished troubleshooting his board. He made it all the way to the POST; all LEDS active, HDD access, but no video on the monitor. Turned out that his DVI circuit on the monitor was dead. I had never heard of that one before. However, it is easy to troubleshoot. When troubleshooting a "no video" situation, always use only one video card in the computer.

1) Verify the cable is solidly connected to the video card and the monitor. Sometime a loose connection is the culprit.

2) If you have a second monitor, use it, most plasma and LED TVs have a DVI input. Otherwise try to use a second DVI connector on the monitor.

A) If that does not work, it may be the cable. Use the S-Video cable that came with the board and connect it to the the monitor.
01-02-2009, 07:58 PM
daubry

Note Thats A good Trouble Shooting Procedure..However I wish to report to all prerusers of this Thread that Beta Bios 1.3 is not good..Cold Boots etc.. I went bak to beta 1.23
01-04-2009, 12:37 PM
Raa

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bjynne

Have you tried taken it all apart and together again. Are you running 2x2gb memory mayby try just using 1 module. Or try som other memory.

Yeah, several times. I've tried all that.

Quote:

Originally Posted by x-built-Stan

Raa,

Here is list of things that you can try. I do not have a picture of your rig, so I'll have to make some assumptions.
I've got a picture of my rig in the first post i submitted.

1) Verify that you have no shorts from the motherboard to case. Everyone thinks it can't happen to them, but it often does. Yes, you can actually short the board without frying it - IEEE gotta love the standards. The result can be a temporary, or permanent, partially functioning board.
The first time i installed the motherboard in my case it didn't short, small chance there's any short the second time i install it the exact same way?

A) If you are using an after market CPU cooler or water block: Did it come with a cross strap (usually and X or H shape) that mounts to the underside of the motherboard? If yes, than check it to ensure that it is not shorting to the board. Make sure that all the electrical isolators were installed properly.
Yes, but the cross strap is made of plastic. And the surface is smooth underneath it.
B) The motherboard may be shorting to the case. To test this remove the motherboard from the case and place on a non-conductive surface. Connect everything as listed next.

Basic Connections for testing:
Connect one Video card (in the PCI-E slot closest to the CPU), two sticks of ram (in the slots closest to the CPU), and one hard drive. Ensure that the power supply us off and connect power supply to the motherboard. Connect the case speaker to the motherboard. The speaker is needed to listen for any "Beep" codes during post. Do not worry about the power switch, HDD light, etc they are not important. You do not need to connect a keyboard, mouse, or monitor at this time either.
Done.
In the lower right hand corner of the motherboard there are 2 switches and 3 LEDs. The switches (red push button) are the CMOS reset (top) and the power switch (bottom). Below the power switch are three LEDs. The red HDD (top), the blue power indicator (middle), and the red power standby (bottom).

1) Turn on the power supply. You should see the red standby led come on.
If this does not happen:
Works like a charm.
A) Check that the power supply is plugged in and functioning, typically you will hear the fan running. If you think that the power supply may be faulty, use a power supply tester to verify that it is working properly.

B) Check that all power supply connections to the motherboard are properly seated for the 24 pin and 8 pin connectors.

C) If A and B do not help, you probably have a dead board.

2) Start the computer by pressing the power switch on the motherboard. The blue power led (above the standby led) should come on. Additionally, you should see a blue led adjacent to the video card come on, indicating that the video card is getting power. A green led will also light up at the bottom of the RAM indicating that the RAM is getting power. Finally, as the system begins to post the red HDD led above the blue power indicator should start flashing signaling HDD reads.

A) If the ram or video card LEDs do not come. Turn off computer at the power supply and unplug it. Re-seat the component and start the computer again. From your previous post it is doubtful that these components are bad so I won't go into that.
The Ram and Video LEDs light up as they should
B) Beep codes: When the system posts you will hear one long beep. This is normal and means that all tests passed. Below is a complete list of codes, if you hear anything other than the one long beep.
PROBLEM, there's no beep from the internal speaker!
1 short DRAM refresh failure The programmable interrupt timer or programmable interrupt controller has probably failed
2 short Memory parity error A memory parity error has occurred in the first 64K of RAM. The RAM IC is probably bad
3 short Base 64K memory failure A memory failure has occurred in the first 64K of RAM. The RAM IC is probably bad
4 short System timer failure The system clock/timer IC has failed or there is a memory error in the first bank of memory
5 short Processor error The system CPU has failed
6 short Gate A20 failure The keyboard controller IC has failed, which is not allowing Gate A20 to switch the processor to protected mode. Replace the keyboard controller
7 short Virtual mode processor exception error The CPU has generated an exception error because of a fault in the CPU or motherboard circuitry
8 short Display memory read/write error The system video adapter is missing or defective
9 short ROM checksum error The contents of the system BIOS ROM does not match the expected checksum value. The BIOS ROM is probably defective and should be replaced
10 short CMOS shutdown register read/write error The shutdown for the CMOS has failed
11 short Cache error The L2 cache is faulty
1 long, 2 short Failure in video system An error was encountered in the video BIOS ROM, or a horizontal retrace failure has been encountered
1 long, 3 short Memory test failure A fault has been detected in memory above 64KB
1 long, 8 short Display test failure The video adapter is either missing or defective
2 short POST Failure One of the hardware tests has failed
1 long POST has passed all tests

Let us know how it goes. If the above does not yield results, you might want to RMA the board again.

UPDATE:
A buddy just finished troubleshooting his board. He made it all the way to the POST; all LEDS active, HDD access, but no video on the monitor. Turned out that his DVI circuit on the monitor was dead. I had never heard of that one before. However, it is easy to troubleshoot. When troubleshooting a "no video" situation, always use only one video card in the computer.

1) Verify the cable is solidly connected to the video card and the monitor. Sometime a loose connection is the culprit.

2) If you have a second monitor, use it, most plasma and LED TVs have a DVI input. Otherwise try to use a second DVI connector on the monitor.

A) If that does not work, it may be the cable. Use the S-Video cable that came with the board and connect it to the the monitor.
I've tried an LCD-DVI solution as well as a CRT-VGA.

BIG thanks for the great tutorial!

I've now sent the motherboard, CPU and DIMMs in one RMA. I'm supposed to get an answer later this week!
01-05-2009, 12:01 AM
x-built-Stan

Onward and upward - Next steps

Raa,

OK. On to the next steps. As was mentioned in a previous post, people are having trouble booting the 1.3Beta bios. You need to go back to the production 1.1 bios or the beta 1.23 bios. To do this you need to get your hands on another CPU, something cheap but compatible with the 1.1 bios - Q6600 or E8400 should do. Borrow one from a buddy if possible. If you can't do that, pick one up at the nearest chip dealer. You only need to use it boot and flash your bios then you can return it. Even if you have to pay a restocking fee its generally less than shipping the board back. So get the chip and install it. Keep the minimum hardware configuration from the previous post. Verify that your board will now post.

Install new bios as follows:
Locate another computer and a USB drive. Go to the MSI forum and get the 1.1 or 1.23Beta bios. Use the USB bios installer software (also available in the MSI forum) to configure the flash drive to auto install the bios. Set the current bios to boot the USB drive first. Plug the drive in and reboot. Bios will automatically upgrade then install your E8500 and test.

Let us know if that is helpful.
01-08-2009, 07:18 AM
Raa

Quote:

Originally Posted by x-built-Stan

Raa,

OK. On to the next steps. As was mentioned in a previous post, people are having trouble booting the 1.3Beta bios. You need to go back to the production 1.1 bios or the beta 1.23 bios. To do this you need to get your hands on another CPU, something cheap but compatible with the 1.1 bios - Q6600 or E8400 should do. Borrow one from a buddy if possible. If you can't do that, pick one up at the nearest chip dealer. You only need to use it boot and flash your bios then you can return it. Even if you have to pay a restocking fee its generally less than shipping the board back. So get the chip and install it. Keep the minimum hardware configuration from the previous post. Verify that your board will now post.

Install new bios as follows:
Locate another computer and a USB drive. Go to the MSI forum and get the 1.1 or 1.23Beta bios. Use the USB bios installer software (also available in the MSI forum) to configure the flash drive to auto install the bios. Set the current bios to boot the USB drive first. Plug the drive in and reboot. Bios will automatically upgrade then install your E8500 and test.

Let us know if that is helpful.

Thanks for all the help!

Apparently there's something wrong with the motherboard so they're sending me a new one :)
Would be nice to know if i've done something wrong so the same thing doesn't happen again :p:
01-08-2009, 10:57 AM
x-built-Stan

Let us know how it works when the new board is in.
01-08-2009, 03:19 PM
BababooeyHTJ

x-built are you still using your P7N and if so how is it treating you?
01-08-2009, 09:40 PM
x-built-Stan

Yes. It runs 24/7. I have had my Q6600, E8400, and QX6800 chips running in it without issue. Really the only issue I had was when I upgraded the BIOs and they changed the voltage settings. I had to retune everything - a real pain in the butt. Its a good board. I did pull the NB/SB heat sink and cleaned it up. Used Arctic Silver Ceranique and dropped my temps by about 5 degrees C. Also starting using it on my CPU heat sink - temp dropped 3C. I spent some time modifying my case to add a 250mm side fan to cool the NB/SB heat sink. That has worked well. I still continue to experiment with different configurations when time permits. How is your rig these days, booey?
01-17-2009, 12:44 PM
jaredpace

Quote:

Originally Posted by Raa

Hi, i've got this weird problem with my MSI P7N Diamond. I bought all my components new and assembled them a week ago.
When i power up the rig it wont post, it just freezes at the MSI logo. Scanning the internet i found many others with the exact same problem.
Turns out the shipped v1.0 BIOS doesn't support my CPU, v1.2 supports it though. Without a supported CPU i cant update BIOS so i sent an RMA request asking them to update the BIOS.
Just got back my motherboard with updated BIOS, only to realize the problem's just got worse.

Now when i power up the rig it doesn't even send any videosignals to the screen.
Not a sound from any HDD or the little buzzer.
The front panel HDD and Power lights wont light up.
The leds that tell me i've connected the GPU cards, DIMMs etc works. The three leds (HDD, POWER, STANDBY) is constantly on.

I've removed the power cord and BIOS battery overnight, tried every possible combination of single/dual GPU and DIMMs in all of the available connectors.
Im now running the rig with just the essentials, without HDDs etc without success.

If anyone out there has the slightest clue what i could try next, dont hesitate to let me know!

I'm having the exact same problem with my P7N Platinum 750i
01-17-2009, 01:50 PM
BababooeyHTJ

Quote:

Originally Posted by x-built-Stan

Yes. It runs 24/7. I have had my Q6600, E8400, and QX6800 chips running in it without issue. Really the only issue I had was when I upgraded the BIOs and they changed the voltage settings. I had to retune everything - a real pain in the butt. Its a good board. I did pull the NB/SB heat sink and cleaned it up. Used Arctic Silver Ceranique and dropped my temps by about 5 degrees C. Also starting using it on my CPU heat sink - temp dropped 3C. I spent some time modifying my case to add a 250mm side fan to cool the NB/SB heat sink. That has worked well. I still continue to experiment with different configurations when time permits. How is your rig these days, booey?

The board died on me after 4 months. It froze up one day and just didnt want to post afterwards. I sent it out for an RMA and they gave it back to me with half of the heatsink missing, but to be honest I thought that I had voided the warrenty when I pulled off the heatsink and replace the TIM with MX-2 which is nesessary on this board. I havent even tried it out since. Ive replaced the board with an Asus P5Q Deluxe and I love it. It was worth the lose of sli. Its good to hear that the board is treating you well.
@Raa- That sounds alot like how my board went out. MSI's QC is pretty bad, it wouldn't surprise me if they missed something.
01-27-2009, 10:00 PM
FedericoUY

Quote:

Originally Posted by BababooeyHTJ

The board died on me after 4 months. It froze up one day and just didnt want to post afterwards. I sent it out for an RMA and they gave it back to me with half of the heatsink missing, but to be honest I thought that I had voided the warrenty when I pulled off the heatsink and replace the TIM with MX-2 which is nesessary on this board.

BababooeyHTJ: I've done exactly the same thing with my P7n D. Replaced orginal TIM with MX-2 and some days later (2 or 3), the board died. I sent it to RMA directly to MSI because NEWEGG gave me only 30 days, and that was 4 months after I bought it. Had to sent it from Uruguay and paid a lot, i don't know if replacing TIM is going to void my warranty, hope not.
01-28-2009, 03:56 AM
BababooeyHTJ

Quote:

Originally Posted by FedericoUY

BababooeyHTJ: I've done exactly the same thing with my P7n D. Replaced orginal TIM with MX-2 and some days later (2 or 3), the board died. I sent it to RMA directly to MSI because NEWEGG gave me only 30 days, and that was 4 months after I bought it. Had to sent it from Uruguay and paid a lot, i don't know if replacing TIM is going to void my warranty, hope not.

Don't worry it didnt void my warrenty.:up: You should be fine.
01-28-2009, 04:51 PM
FedericoUY

Quote:

Originally Posted by BababooeyHTJ

Don't worry it didnt void my warrenty.:up: You should be fine.

Did you sent it to MSI (City of Industry, CA) for RMA?
It's remarkable how similar were both cases, and also RAA here in the forum who had a similar problem, bad consignment i guess.
02-07-2009, 04:20 PM
Litri

Hi all,

I'm new here. I got this mobo a few months ago and i was wondering how high could i take my q6600 B3.

I had been able to overclock the cpu to 2.7ghz, or 1200FSB with default voltages on everything besides the Memory voltage which was manually set to 2.1v (I have 8gb on 2x Corsair TWIN2X4096-6400C4DHX) as i have all the banks full. I achieved rock solid stability but it thought it was a measly overclock (everybody i've talked to has got this proc minimum to 3ghz).

The problem now is that at those settings mentioned above anything past 1200FSB means that the computer will not post.

So what i did was set System clock to "Manual", DRAM clock to "800" and CPU
voltage to "+0.0250" , changed NB voltage to "1.35", SB voltage to "1.6" as i have 3 hard disks and 3 optical drives, DRAM Ref. V. at "0.975" and all limiting features disabled (C1E, EIST, Spread spectrum, D.O.t.).

Now the computer always posts but as soon as it show the desktop and all the application/processes are loaded it freezes, shows a black screen or resets after a BSOD.

Any tips?

This are my specs:

MSI P7N Diamond bios v.12
Intel q6600 B3 with Coolermaster Hyper TX2 cooler
8gb on 2x Corsair TWIN2X4096-6400C4DHX
2x 8800gtx (BFG and Sparkle)
3 x HDD (WD raptor 74gb, WD raptor 150gb and WD Caviar SE 160gb)
1x Plextor Premium CD-R\RW 52x/32x/52x
1x Plextor DVD-R\RW PX-760SA
Lian-Li PC1200B plus
Thermaltake Toughpower 1500W Modular PSU
Windows Xp x64 sp2

Cheers!!
02-07-2009, 06:50 PM
BababooeyHTJ

Quote:

Originally Posted by Litri

Hi all,

I'm new here. I got this mobo a few months ago and i was wondering how high could i take my q6600 B3.

I had been able to overclock the cpu to 2.7ghz, or 1200FSB with default voltages on everything besides the Memory voltage which was manually set to 2.1v (I have 8gb on 2x Corsair TWIN2X4096-6400C4DHX) as i have all the banks full. I achieved rock solid stability but it thought it was a measly overclock (everybody i've talked to has got this proc minimum to 3ghz).

The problem now is that at those settings mentioned above anything past 1200FSB means that the computer will not post.

So what i did was set System clock to "Manual", DRAM clock to "800" and CPU
voltage to "+0.0250" , changed NB voltage to "1.35", SB voltage to "1.6" as i have 3 hard disks and 3 optical drives, DRAM Ref. V. at "0.975" and all limiting features disabled (C1E, EIST, Spread spectrum, D.O.t.).

Now the computer always posts but as soon as it show the desktop and all the application/processes are loaded it freezes, shows a black screen or resets after a BSOD.

Any tips?

This are my specs:

MSI P7N Diamond bios v.12
Intel q6600 B3 with Coolermaster Hyper TX2 cooler
8gb on 2x Corsair TWIN2X4096-6400C4DHX
2x 8800gtx (BFG and Sparkle)
3 x HDD (WD raptor 74gb, WD raptor 150gb and WD Caviar SE 160gb)
1x Plextor Premium CD-R\RW 52x/32x/52x
1x Plextor DVD-R\RW PX-760SA
Lian-Li PC1200B plus
Thermaltake Toughpower 1500W Modular PSU
Windows Xp x64 sp2

Cheers!!

:welcome:
If you read through the thread alot of people were using a Q6600, there is alot of good info here. You should find a good starting point. Keep in mind auto does not mean stock. Once you start overclocking stuff like your pll and vtt gets almost dangerously high on most boards. I never tested this with a multimeter. You might need to replace the TIM on your chipset with something like MX-2 since you have all of the dimms occupied. The northbridge runs hot and that seems to have helped alot of people out.

You may have hit a FSB hole they are random and huge on these nForce boards. My e8400 hit one around a 440fsb. It sounds like you got a good board though. With some tweeking and research you should see good results. Good luck. :up:
02-07-2009, 07:05 PM
BababooeyHTJ

Quote:

Originally Posted by FedericoUY

Did you sent it to MSI (City of Industry, CA) for RMA?
It's remarkable how similar were both cases, and also RAA here in the forum who had a similar problem, bad consignment i guess.

Yeah, thats exactly where I sent mine. MSI's customer service may kind of suck but they will make things right.

As far as the boards dieing, Im not sue weither I should blame MSI or Nvidia. Im sure that its a problem with the chipset. When I got my board back it looked like they had replaced the northbridge. I sold mine recently and the guy that I sold it too seems to be haveing good luck with it.

I hope that everything works out well for you.
02-08-2009, 07:20 AM
stickboy00

its taken me months to finally dial this board in and get it stable at 400FSB with a e8500.... the board is very finicky but once you get it stable, its a rock.
02-08-2009, 07:45 PM
dogg

1 year now ...

In these days my MOBO has 1st birthday / or better say anniversary /.. I must agree with bababooey and stickboy, that it's about little play with voltages, but since MSI did a very good job with MOBO's BIOS, it's much more easy to find a stable setting.. I did no cooling modifications and it's stable /e8400 1760 FSB, e8600 1732 FSB/ for 24/7 use.. I, somehow, like to keep 1:1 DRAM:FSB ratio on this board :rolleyes:..
:welcome:and gl Litri..
02-08-2009, 09:52 PM
oz38super

3DMark06 score too low... please help

Hi, I been watching this post for a while and finally decided to get myself a P7N and hope I can beat all the odds. I got everything up and running and so far so good until I ran the 3DMark06 test, the score was shocking 946, I knew there must be something wrong but I could not figure it out.
My config is below
MSI P7n Diamond V1.0
MSI Geforce 9800GT OC 512MB
2GB 1066 DDR2
160G HD
Pentium 4 3.6GHz
Windows XP SP2
I know my CPU is a bit slow for the graphic card but is it normal to score that low? I wanted to experience some OC with a low end CPU first before I upgrade to a Quad.
Any help will be appreciated
PS I ran CUPID and everything seem normal.

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