Try "search this thread" with "Marios tref CAS TRC TRRD"Quote:
Originally Posted by no_n|ck
or any other BIOS setting you want to configure.
Here is an example
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...postcount=1211
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Try "search this thread" with "Marios tref CAS TRC TRRD"Quote:
Originally Posted by no_n|ck
or any other BIOS setting you want to configure.
Here is an example
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...postcount=1211
I just tried with these memeory setting, but when i restart from windows (or bios), my system will not boot. Its, strange, i tried with the default and then its restarting normaly. I also try to put fsb to 250 and even then restart normaly, but when i put the fsb to 300 it doesn't want to restrat - it hanges and i must turn the psu off/on .. i'm realy out of ideas, what could help me out?
FSB300 is too much.
Do you really need it?
Check your HTT multi and the memory limit (divider).
Why is too much? I had tested it to do 400, but with other chip. My multi is 10× and i'm using 166 ram divider - they run as specified .. But i read that a8n32 doesn't like samsung UCCC modules (my system also freez sometimes in windows), so i guess that with mine OCZ EB on the way this problem will go away - they should be here next week .. thanx for helpQuote:
Originally Posted by Marios
With your settings (10x300=3000, 300X3=900 HTT, 166 divider, CPU overvoltage and 2.8vdimm) your memory is overclocked at 230,77MHz.
You should be OK as long as your CPU is stable at 3000MHz.
I believe you need a stronger PSU though.
yea my cpu is rock stable - no worries here .. ram is running at 250mhz (with 166 divider) .. i think that psu is enough powerful since i'm not running sli, and i only have one disk and one dvd rom + 4 vents - no other things .. it just bugs me that warm restrat:stick:
I got my motherboard back from RMA 2 weeks ago, it had to be hotflash in ordered to be fixed :(
When I first booted it, I went into the BIOS to enable my RAID 0, after restarting, it looks like this:
http://img202.imageshack.us/img202/2...arge6jk.th.jpg
Then a few minutes later..
http://img159.imageshack.us/img159/1...arge5ze.th.jpg
I've tried the following:
1. Resetting CMOS and also leaving it for a few minutes
2. Taking battery out for a few hours
3. Taking HDD's out
4. Using one stick of RAM
5. No DVD Drive
6. No soundcard
I could not get it to boot successfully :(, any ideas? :(
What is a warm restart?Quote:
Originally Posted by no_n|ck
You mean you enter Windows and you get a restart or you get the restart while booting? You are unstable in both cases so find your stable overclocking limits for your mobo, your CPU and your Dimms the traditional way. Experiment with BIOS settings.
Hi again.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cybertronic
I hope this time you can make your system work.
It is not easy. There are so many little things you have to know.
I'll try to help.
These are my suggestions.
Reset your BIOS once again the right way this time.
(You did it the wrong way as I recall the last time and you got all sort of problems).
I have described in previous posts how to flash a new BIOS (with a bootable floppy or a USB key and AFUDOS only), how to use the insert key only in case of dissaster and only with a copy of the original BIOS on a bootable floppy or a CD and with the proper name.
Your mobo should work right away as you got it.
You only need to enter BIOS, load BIOS default settings, restart and set the correct BIOS settings.
The reason you have problems is your memory.
I think you have Ballistix.
These are DDR500 and your mobo with latest BIOS changes the DRAM Limit (this is a divider) to DDR500.
Your memory cannot work at DDR500 with stock 2.6v.
You need to give 2.8v and set this limit manually at 200 (then you may try to overclock).
In case that you flashed a BIOS the wrong way you need to follow these steps.
Reset the BIOS:
Remove everything.
Remove the battery.
Change the correct BIOS reset jumper to 2-3 position for a few minutes.
Replace the jumper.
Replace the battery.
Set up your system
Do not plug your raid drives or anything else.
Just CPU, one display card, Dimms, Screen, mouse, keyboard and floppy (use tested floppy and cable)
Flash the latest BIOS with AFUDOS on a USB key or a floppy disk.
Enter BIOS and change the Memory Limit to 200 and your vdimm to 2.8v.
Boot from floppy with memtest86+
Can you boot now?
Run memtest86+ for a while.
Also check you can boot from a DOS bootable floppy disk.
Check your RAID settings.
Check the rest of your BIOS settings (vdimm, vcore etc).
There are lots of examples on every BIOS setting on this thread.
There are known issues with Maxtor hard disks and ANTEC NeoHE 500 PSUs.
Also your soundcard (first editions) had a few problems.
I've just tried the way it was stated in the manual, it still shows the same thing :(
I can't get into the BIOS at all, the "Press DEL button" message doesn't appear on the bottom of the BIOS screen anymore :confused:
With warm restart i mean; when i restart the computer from windows it log of noramly, just the system will not boot again - i have to turn psu off/on and turn the system back on to boot and start computer normaly - same story happens when i leave the bios - computer restart but will not boot, so again i have to turn psu off/on and switch the computer on again to boot normaly. But this is not the limit of the board, when i where having opty 146, same fsb - 300 was used, but i had also another sticks then - no UCCC. Anyway, i sold mine UCCC ram modules today and i'm wating for OCZ Platinum EB modules to come - i'm 90% sure that this warm 'restart' thing will dissaperd.Quote:
Originally Posted by Marios
And mine system is 12h prime95 stable (small fft), so i eliminated that cpu and board would not be stable (large fft's are failing, so i'm 100% sure its ram related). Marios thanx for informations :toast:
The manual is not very descriptive.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cybertronic
I have changed my previous post a little.
Now I have included more info.
Give it a try and let me know if you need anything.
An alternative way is this.
Hard reset your BIOS without your memory.
Then plug your dimms and the very first time you boot enter the BIOS, reset to defaults, change the limit and the vdimm and restart.
What do you guys think about the new bios 1103? It really improved my warmboot problem, thats for sure. It also shorten the windows bootsequence significantly.
Asus says it will improve the overclocking with updated AI Booster Code. I'm not sure about the last statement, because the warmboot has been tricking me.
From asus:
A8N32-SLI Deluxe Bios version 1103
1- Support VCT Function for both LAN.
2- Show pink and red color when oversetting Dram voltage.
3- Fixed System show wrong Memory Installed Size when Enable Memory Hole Function.
4- Update AI Booster Code to improve overclocking ability.
Edit: BTW the VCore seems a lot more stable with 1.2V + 200mV, than 1.4V without overvoltage selected.
does anyone know the best way to take off the heatpipe cooling to add thermal grease without breaking it? my northbridge temp is 45C at idle and 55C under load during gaming with cod2.
+1Quote:
Originally Posted by Raffen
I think it's something to do with the vcore basic being 4-phase and the overvoltage being the other 4-phase; use both together and you've got 8-phase stability instead of 4.
Still reckon this board "feels" nicer in use than my DFI. I'll go back to it for sure.
A lot of people have made the same question, but I didnt´t have a straight answer yet... Does it work with OCZ DDR Booster????
And if it does, in what slot shout it be installed?
Thanx in advance. ;)
Well even though no one answered :( :D I went ahead and ordered two of the NV Silencers from Newegg.Quote:
Originally Posted by dbett
I installed them last night. They fit! Two problems though:
1. The fan on the upper card initially didn't turn. :eek: After looking a bit more closely, I realized that the X-Fi was touching the hump on top of the fan (which faces down in the case). Luckily I was able to cut a little piece of rubber gasket I had lying around and jam it between the X-Fi and the clear plastic edge around the fan. That gives it enough clearance to now turn freely. :banana:
2. But even with that clearance, the X-Fi is still long enough that the last inch and half covers the air intake area on the upper NV Silencer. The result seems to be somewhat higher temps (about 5+ more than the lower card). But the temps are still lower than with the stock cooler so I'm not that worried about it.
And the end result is MB temps under video load (multiple runs of 3dMark05) that are about 7 degrees lower than what they were with the stock coolers. :woot: And the better thing is that the temps remain low even when I oc'd the cards - right now just at "optimal" settings of about 445 and 1.8.
CPU temps under load also declined, but only by 2-3 degrees. That's with the stock (but pretty cool) AMD X2 4400+ HS.
So all in all I'm happy with the addition.
Tell u what would be very useful if u overclock and use CnQ as 'Marios ' post here :bows: is a Bios mod that-
1. lets us select the 'Over-voltage cpu vcore' by different amounts instead of just 0.2V
2. some way of still being able to lock the max CPU multipler to a max value say x8,x9 or x10 whilst still being able to use 'CnQ'
Know if that could be done that would be really cool :cool:
just running some thoughs in the thread - any bios modders out there
Oh yes. Nice idea Zeus.Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeus...
With ASUS A8N-SLI deluxe and premium only the multiplier is fixed, not the vcore.
So it is possible to have CnQ and unlocked vcore.
I hope someone breaks this silly vcore lock with CnQ.
(In my case I am stable at 2600 MHz even without CPU overvoltage but I would like to set CnQ enabled with vcore at 1.25v + overvoltage and O/C at 2700 for every day. Even at 2600 it would be great to use 8 phases instead of four)
There is no such a thing like "worm restart" the way you described it.Quote:
Originally Posted by no_n|ck
This is a normal function of our mobo to protect our CPU and calibrate the voltages it gives.
As you noticed the BIOS in our case is hudge.
This is because of all the data it helds to give the best voltages in all situations.
This is how I believe this mobo works.
(Actually this is a theory only but in my case it works OK)
When we apply a new configuration the BIOS performs two minor restarts before the actuall restart we see.
In some cases we can hear those minor restarts from the two sounds our DVD does.
The BIOS performs the first minor restart to save the new settings.
Then it calibrates the voltages and any other auto settings, checks they are valid and performs the second minor restart to save them.
After this, we get the actuall restart we see.
If the BIOS finds any problem with the settings we apply it locks down and never performs the second minor restart.
The BIOS kept the last working mobo optimizations and auto settings that worked but they are inadequate.
This is the Worm Boot we get.
We only hear one minor restart and we have to shut down the PC and restart to get in the BIOS again.
In case of a critical error we do not even get the Warm Boot.
We have a really LOCKED CPU.
In those cases we need to keep pressing the insert key to enter the BIOS again.
In all cases after a lock we have to set the FSB at 201, restart with a warm boot lock once again, but after that we no longer get the warm boot.
Now we can set the BIOS at the last working O/C settings and correct the problem (give more vcore for example) to go on.
In some cases there are no tables for the settings we apply.
The BIOS needs to lock some values and not change them.
In those cases we need to teach the BIOS what to do.
One way is to apply our settings gradually.
The other one is to unlock the BIOS every time it is locked (by setting the FSB at 201) because of a bad teaching circle and start again from the last stable boot.
On a next post I am going to give you a few more BIOS hints with examples.
Like this one
The actuall CPU overvolting is not 0.2v but 0.16v :)
Search Keys
Warm restart bag BIOS settings A8N32
I have had some great PM advice and discussion with Marios tonight. First of all Kudos to Marios for being such a big helper with the A8N32 MB!!! :YIPPIE:Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeus...
Zeus, You have taking the words outa my mouth with your post. I would love to see a Bios with those "add ins". My config would rock with a locked 10x multi and CnQ enabled. The ram hit I have to take with a divider and 11x multi pisses me off :mad: 2nd, My 148 needs volts only to be 3D stable. For some reason this biznotch will run OCCT, Prime, Super Pi 32m and SP2004 without a hitch at low Vcores and 3.1ghz on her clock. As soon as I try a 3D test or Game she dies and needs more Vcore!! I have been searching for others with my problem, but am coming up dry so far.
Nice to see its not just me - my mem will do 250Mhz STD but with a multi of 11 thats 2750MHz and the overvolt isnt quite enough for stablity, it will run super pi etc but not Prime95 24hrs one of the core fail, it runs 3d ok, but I was getting minor issues which I think may be due to data currupt :slapass: or just the sysytem not being stable enough.Quote:
Originally Posted by CODE 4
Also long term come summer when the heat arrives may need to reduce the Vcore and overclock to keep the temps/noise down. after all the overclock is great but I like to hear myself think - so an overclock of 2500Mhz would be nice for summer, but stuck with the 'overvolt' 0.2V'
Did think about getting a 'bios Saviour' then at the flick of a switch and a reboot the system goes form a STD system to lets 'Frag them All' system - but haven't looked into that option yet as summer isnt hear yet and the solution may be just round the corner with 'CnQ'
Just to follow up on my NV Silencer cooler installs...
Here's a picture of the rather crowded set up. The red arrow shows the piece of plastic I jammed in to get clearance for the upper unit's fan.
http://thebettertons.com/_images/misc/slicoolers.jpg
I am wondering , has anyone managed to get ATI Tray Tools to run on this board ?
Quote:
Originally Posted by dbett
:eek: looks tight (but fits :) ) - hope u dont need to clear CMOS
What someone needs to make and sell is a extender for the 3 pins that clear the cmos. You could make a remote clear cmos port and mount it in a position that you could access it. You could even make it a button config that you would just press and the cmos would clear!! Food for thought...someone get on this and you could make a mint on the forums/Ebay......or you could be nice and give them to all of us for free :D