What programs can you use to see the volt of the memory? :D
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What programs can you use to see the volt of the memory? :D
hmmm I have possibly got a bit confuzzled there :p
edit...actually no eGuru tells the voltage...think that's the only one I've seen it in though
ok I put in a replacement BIOS and got 90 on post saw it was BIOS problem and I turned it off and tried pressing in the BIOS chip better and burner the F*ck out of my finger ... thoughts?
after updating the bios i am getting cpu temp of 16-17deg idle 30 under load, individual cores 36 idle/49 under load, does that seem too low now ??
Uguru will read all your voltages.Quote:
Originally Posted by mysticwizard
I just use hwmon http://cpuid.com/hwmonitor.php
http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/5486/38241052cp6.jpg
depends on what kind of cooling you have, if you have air or water cooling it wont be below ambientQuote:
Originally Posted by bert555
http://images.people.overclockers.ru/149177.jpg
Can somebody confirm that pwm thermoresistor is there?
Hi,
Guys I was never been successful at overclocking my e6320 with IP35 Pro, I cant hit 2900 MHZ+ stable with my rig...I tried loosing memory timings and extreme voltages to cpu and chips...I'm coming to idea that the e6320 socks...or maybe the board!!!
Did anyone raised an e6320 to 3200+ with this mobo?
I'm using 16b04 now (I updated about three or four months ago)...and I have my mobo bolted just after ordering it! the temps is not my concern...what should I do? can anyone confirm 16b09 will help with speeding up the OC?
Thanks!
that looks more like a resistor.Quote:
Originally Posted by Darth Vader
Can someone please tell me the orientation of the Chopped off corner of the BIOS chip in the socket - when the board is oriented cpu socket on top
or PIC !
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...h_DSC_0355.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by TheGoat Eater
Click to zoom larger...
From the looks of it the notched (cut off) end points towards the bottom left of the board (in this picture)
EDIT: According to the following picture I was correct :)
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...ro-diagram.jpg
Notice the dot on the bottom left of the bios chip
yepper - while not noticing it when I popped the other out I F-ed it up
Has anyone used this..
MIPS MCH144 Abit IP35 Mosfet Freezer
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/g...pro_mosfet.jpg
Hi Wilson,Quote:
Originally Posted by wilson
I am using this waterblock in my ring, I suppose you want to know about temperature. In my watercooling loop I have:
8800GTX volt modded + SB + NB+ PWM + Hard Drive + Eheim 1048 + htf Dual Xtra.
Idle PWM temp : 36°
Orthos load PWM temp : 53°
I only have a dual core processor, but voltage is 1.69V@4.1Ghz (motherboard is Vdrop modded and voltage doesn't move at all)
I don't have the temp before the watercooling. But It was higher (5°-10°) with vcore only at 1.5V
Hope it will help you.
The MIPS MCH144 Abit IP35 Mosfet Freezer works well
I have a question about the Intel® Matrix Storage Manager driver. I am running my SATA in AHCI mode so I installed the AHCI driver from floppy during my fresh install of windows.
Do I have to install the full driver found here http://downloadcenter.intel.com/Deta...ional&lang=eng once I get windows installed and get the chipset drivers installed?
Yes!
Ace why dont you join abit support? lol your in this thread all the time man
i am a member!:yepp: ...just posted there too!;)Quote:
Originally Posted by strange|ife
Thanks Ace! Got the rig up and running. Gonna let it run @ stock for a day or so then we will crank it up!Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
Nice temps.Quote:
Originally Posted by Powerfull
Sweet. No surprise... Gratz. Damn, sayin that makes me miss MMORPG's.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
Side note...
I woke up this morning and *something* completely messed up my comp... I tried everything (trust me, it was everything). Basically, 5-7 seconds after I got to my windows log on screen, I got a BS and a restart, everytime, no matter what. A restore from 24 hours before fixed it.
Anyways... I'm glad to report that I'm "stable" at 3.6Ghz... Not P95 stable... But I can play my games and stuff. My wife is out of town until Wednesday, so I should be rather active here these next few days.
Hi guys, I'm trying to find out what these are called in speedfan:
- northbridge chipset
- southbridge chipset
Or how I can check the temps of these. I did the mod for the bolts and want to check if the chipset is OK (I couldnt see how far I was tightening it down!!)
Thanks !
I have a minor dilemma running Penryn on this board. I am not concerned about temps too much as I am in an unheated garage in NY in February and the ambient temp never rises over 15C.
Anyway a bit of system specs and then the annoying scenario I have encountered.
CPU: E8400
ES/Retail: Retail
Batch #: Q746A377
Ship/Packaging Date: Jan. 04, 2008
Voltage(s) (Stock/OC'ed): 1.112/1.285 set BIOS (CPU-Z 1.27 idle - 1.25 load)
Frequency(ies) (OC'ed): 400x8 (4.0)
Motherboard: Abit IP35 Pro
BIOS: 16.B09
Video Card: El Cheapo X300 PCI-E
_______
*Extra* Memory(ies) (Timing(s)): 2GB OCZ SLI ready PC2-8500 5-5-5-15 running 1:1
*Extra* Memory(ies) (Voltage(s)): 2.0v SPD rates 2.3v for full rated speed
*Extra* Third Party Cooling Solution: NY winter (Zalman 9700)
*Extra* Paste(s)/Compound(s)/Other(s): Ceramique
Ambient temps were a balmy 14C in my garage. Idle temps around 36C - 32C and load at 37C - 42C. Temps read by Core Temp. All runs done in open case w' 120mm fan blowing on NB.
OK,so here's the dilemma. The cpu runs Orthos for more than 4 hours on small FFTs. The RAM passes memtest 86 v.2.0 at the current setting. Orthos fails at 37 minutes under blend test. With each bump in DDR2 voltage Orthos fails a little sooner. I went all the way p to 2.274v for the RAM and failed blend test in 9 minutes.
Here are some voltages I am not all that familiar with.
CPU VTT = 1.13
MCH = 1.52
ICH = 1.09
ICH IO = 1.50
DDR2 REF = 0% (options are: +2%...0%...-2%...-4%)
CPU GTLREF 0%2 = 68%
CPU GT:REF 1&3 = 68%
Maybe changing one of these will help my blend Orthos stability?
Thanks -Jim
Hi Jim,
I also have a E8400 and my volts are pretty much the same as yours. What I have noticed so far is, that the E8400 goes straight to 4 GHz (with 1.37 V) and than it needs lots of volts to go further (like 1.52V for 4.32 GHz). And as Ace has mentioned earlier you need more Volts to get it prime stable. But I donīt care for prime.
But your setting is pretty much stock so I think you need not as high Volts as you have (especially for MCH).
so far Juli
Hi Jim if you are concern about memory stability, try to increase ICH IO voltage to see if that help. At 1100Mhz (FSB memory) on my ring I have to increase it to make it orthos and rock stable. I have it set to 1.70V but it's already stable above 1.60VQuote:
Originally Posted by jimmsch
Give us some feed back in any case.
I also run the ddr2 ref voltage at +2%.
try 63-67% for CPU GTLREF...i read that the 45nm cpu's are designed to work at 63% for stock voltages...so...work from there up to 67% or 68%.Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmsch
For the QX9650 & Q6600 I ran 69% as this was where the board (stock) was stable for high OC's, it's a matter of trying and seeing what works with your components.
the GTLREF and DDR2REF settings have always confused me :confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by ncsa
If the board is stable at:
DDR2REF: +2%
CPUREF: 70%
and also stable at:
DDR2REF: 0%
CPUREF: 67%
Then which is a better setting :confused:
There is no way to test which is better for my system if they are both stable so which should I stick with? Is there a rule of thumb (i.e. higherr is better) ???
Well testing Memory with Memtest for each FSB/timing change will help, until you know where your modules operate within and also using your favourite OS tool .. be it Prime95, OCCT, Orthos and Games .. whatever you need for your system to run for you.
As for MadMax22, I have also used DDR +2 but generally when I am on the edge of the modules...
I would only bump the Ref when you need to and this tends to be when up start pushing the FSBs, the other voltages also play their part.
For the Q6600 cooling also plays a big part in 'stability'.
Like any OC, you can see what others have done but even identical part numbers will OC differently... so it is a matter of working your OC up bit by bit ...
What is the temperature of the chipset (the chip below the CPU) called in Speedfan/uguru?
I did the bolt mod and couldn't see if it was making proper contact with the chipset properly because of that pad (which I should have removed so I could see).
Also my PWM is always cold, like, 30-35c cold. I'm not too sure why some people are reporting 80+c? Never gets hot to the touch even when I max the voltage out on it. Unless the PWM isnt the thing to the left of the CPU?
Also what are other temps called in speedfan? I'm sure someone has checked all this out before !
Thankyou !!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Seeker-
Don't think the NB & SB have a temp sensor, could be wrong on this thou. Anyone know for sure?Quote:
Originally Posted by Seeker-
Are you monitoring the PWM temp at LOAD or IDLE?
My PWM doesn't get that hot at IDLE even at high voltages, but when I load up my Q6600 using Prime95 it starts to cook ;)
p.s. Yes, the PWM is the HS to the left of the CPU
I have a question which may reduce some of you to tears of laughter. I'm still a nooblet at this stuff and I don't totally understand a lot of what is happening inside my case.
If I am assuming correctly, since I can touch my heatpipes with power on, they don't appear to have any voltage applied. I assume that means they are at ground potential. So.....if my cpu cooling fan radiators were to be too close to the southbridge radiators....would that be bad?
I know this isn't specifically a question about this board, more of a general question. But you guys are terribly knowledgeable and I don't mind sounding goofy as long as I can add to my brain's database.
http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/3954/52306776dj7.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by BassKozz
And it idles 2 degrees lower.
Thoughts? :p
What processor are you using ? Are you OverClocking? What are your Voltages?Quote:
Originally Posted by Seeker-
Also that's after only 3minutes of Orthos... you should give it a good 15minutes to get LOAD temp readings.
FYI For Future Reference: You should put your system spec's in your signature so that people can better assist
Thanks for all the replies guys. The below seems to have worked. Thanks Ace
I set this to 65% and so far, so good. Does this mean that I will want to increase this whenever I increase vcore?Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
Maybe someone can give a quick explanation of what each of these extra voltages actually does?
Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmsch
hey!:D...after looking at the above post from anotherQuote:
DDR2: 2.12
CPU VTT: 1.32
MCH: 1.50
ICHIO: 1.10
GTL REF: 55/54%
fella poster, it got me thinking about the CPU GTLREF
settings..smell it burning!:D
anyway, i started to fool around with those settings and i was
able to do 4.2ghz using 61% CPU GTLREF...
i read in an intel document recently which stated the CPU GTLREF for 45nm was 63%; lower than the 65nm processors, which i think is 67%...not 100%
certain on the 67%...but thought it was interesting to post this tidbit since the 45nm processors are not cooperating in the voltage department like the 65nm processors do.
Guys, could anybody explain physical meaning of that GTLREF values (67% and etc)? Unfortunately, my E8400 can't work on FSB above 480-485 MHz: whatever I am doing, it fails in Crysis even if I set 500x6 (though in most other tasks it works, only crysis is picky). I increased all voltages, core up to 1.45, MCH up to 1.70, VTT up to 1.40, ICH/ICHIO also was increased - no luck. Motherboard & memory can do 500MHz - my previous E6750 worked as 500x7 solid as a rock. Now I have to use 480x8.5= 4080, which is not bad at all, but I want 500 FSB :) Do you think that GTLREF setting may help? What is the meaning of these GTLREF values?
My mobo: IP35 PRO 1.1, BIOS 16B09, Mem G.Skill PC2-8000.
it is a percentage of CPU VTT...you are suppose to maintain a 63% value of CPU VTT...CPU GTLREF is a sub-voltage that works in unison with CPU VTT.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nervous
what CPU GTLREF % are you using?
I tried 67%, 69%, 61% and 63% - no difference at all... Looks like my CPU has low FSB wall :(
hello i test a E8400 with my IP35 Pro (bios 16 B03), and the cpu runs stable at 487x9 (4385mhz) 1.520Vcore (cpuz, uguru) 1.625V in bios, but i boot with 500x9 (4500mhz) with 1.57V, MCH:1.52V, ICH 1.09V, CPU VTT: 1.42V ICH0:1.55V, i have a question, for more stability at 500fsb you need a more ICH and ICH0???, greetings...
Whats the MAX. FSB done on a E8400/E8500, on the IP35 Pro?
I have an IP35 Pro board and instead of using the standard cpu cooler that came with the q6600 i bought a Tuniq tower instead.
Installation was nearly done but then i realised the CPU fan header on the motherboard was a 4 pin connector and the one on the Tower was a 3 pin.No problem i thought i will just buy a 3 pin to 4 pin fan convertor as their are bound to be cheap and easy to find.
There are lots of 3 pin to 4 pin convertors but the 4 pin is a large Molex plug but i am after the small 4 pin like the one on the cooler that came with the CPU.I realise i can plug the 3 pin on the tower to any other fan header but i would prefair to plug it in the Cpu fan header.
Any ideas were i can get one.?.shops in the Uk would be ideal.
Thanks for the help.:)
I can do 525Mhz before my ram craps out. :) standard DDR800 stuffQuote:
Originally Posted by Ad1tya
BassKoz - E8400, 4050Mhz stock volts, (450x9.)
Also that temp just 'hovers' and goes up by 1-2c then back down, etc. It's just strange it runs cool compared to everyone else who needs to have fans on em.
Bastard-Nation - plug the 3pin into the 4pin plug. It'll fit in, look where the groove is and put it in, skipping 1 pin obviously. (I think you leave the far right pin out of it)
Has anybody had that issue after flashing the bios, that after you save settings, it starts to reboot, shuts down, powers up, shuts down (fans spinning turning on and off repeatedly)
I always seem to have this problem every time I flash the bios. I always seem to fix it eventually, but I can't remember what fixes it. Sometimes I think getting into windows and loading up uGuru does the trick, or it might be the fan monitor shutting it down.
It's like the bios gets in an unstable state, but once you are able to save settings one time, it never happens again.
Anyone have any ideas what causes this bug?
Thanks in advance!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bastard-Nation
I have a TT 120 with a 3 pin connector plugged into the IP35's 4 pin connector & it works fine.
CN :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scope666
does this happen after clearing CMOS using the switch on the I/O panel with the power cord unplug from the PSU?
4 pin fan headers are backwards compatible with 3 pin... meaning you can plug your 3 pin into it just fine. I wouldn't use a 3 pin fan on the 4 pin header on the Abit board though. That header is for PWM and in Abit EQ it doesn't let you set a voltage for it. Use one of the AUX headers for it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bastard-Nation
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
Yes, I clear the cmos, and flip the power switch on my power supply off and then press the power switch to discharge the caps.
It just doesn't want to save bios data properly the first time. Once I get the magic combo and save settings, if I'm able to boot once the problem never happens again. I can go into bios and change settings without any problem as long as I get that first save to "stick"
i have a guestion about CPU GTLREF. I have my cpu running at 3304mhz. (8*413). the CPU GTLREF is still at 63% in bios (stock) should i increase/decrease this? Why should i do this? Could there be danger if i don't change it? :p
Can you or someone elaborate on this statement please? I currently have my 3-pin CPU fan connector in the 4-pin header...Quote:
Originally Posted by derektm
Thanks.
You can't control its speed with Abit EQ.Quote:
Originally Posted by WrigleyVillain
Yeah, turn off the CPU Fan warning in the BIOS, and plug the fan into a different header. UGuru can then control it.Quote:
Originally Posted by WrigleyVillain
The TT120 has a variable resistor/potentiometer mounted on a backplate to control fan speed.
CN :)
Look at my pwm temps with the bolt mod ???
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/g...7/untitled.jpg
This is at idle.:down:
Ive used mx2 paste and have re done it to be sure of contact on all the pwm`s. The HS is warm to touch but only just..?
This is with 6 mins of prime .
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg211/wils07/1.jpg
Thats when running large FFT`s
Yeah but why use that when you can use a feature of the board to control it? Abit EQ can control its speed depending on what temperature your cpu,sys, or pwm temp is.Quote:
Originally Posted by C-N
something not right there wilson, my PWM is 40c idle and 57 load after 10 mins of large FFT's and thats without the boltmod
I wasn't really disputing the pros & cons but I think its all down to personal choice at the end of the day. I find you can leave the TT 120's fan @ 1200 ish rpm or silent for everything including gaming & when you want to run Orthos/Prime just wang it up dead easy.Quote:
Originally Posted by derektm
Ive done a 550FSB suicide shot, on air with this board. Not stable enough for anything though.
535 FSB is rock solid stable on my E8400.
Wanted to know whats the absolute wall...
so, if i have it right, you can get into the bios but it just won't save anything...is that correct?...if so, have you tried setting bios defaults, saving them and then re-enter the bios to manipulate what you want....OR...if it posts after saving the bios defaults, let it boot into windows before trying any changes for overclocking.Quote:
Originally Posted by Scope666
my other thought, what hardware do you have installed?...any special audio cards, raid cards something like that?
Quote:
Originally Posted by wilson
did you add any fans to the PWM and NB bridges?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
I ended up fixing it again. I did a mish-mosh of suggestions I found on the web. I manually set all cpu parameters and voltages, FSB ratio, vdimm, and turned off all "shut down if there's a problem" features and hit save changes, and this time it saved successfully and let me reboot. If anyone else ever runs into this, that's what I would recommend.
Thanks as usual Ace! :-)
man every time I wanna click on "Buy" I stop by here and I see someone posting a problem.:( Makes me hesitate for second:rofl:
This is predominantly a problem cause by OC'ers right?
Out of the box, this motherboard works fine for those who assemble and use it without OC'ing.:confused:
that's alright at least you guys got answers:up:
What are you waiting for? Load your cart to the brim and squeeze the trigger. Do it tonight and you can have your toys this weekend. This is a very good board with a lot of people using it so there is a lot of user support as is evident with this humongous thread. Go ahead, jump.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpl Ledanek
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scope666
Your problem sounds like the one I'm experiencing now. It doesn't happen every time I change a BIOS setting, just every other time or so if I adjust a critical setting related to the CPU or RAM. This issue only came up after I switched my PSU to a Corsair HX520, so I assumed it was similar to the compatibility issues that some people experienced. Once I can boot with the BIOS setting, I don't have a problem until I make another few CPU or RAM BIOS changes. It's annoying, but I can live with it.
Its a good board. The only issues I have scene are the contact from the pwm cooler and minor issues with bios's but that is just the nature of the game. Yes it will work right out of the box with maybe adjusting the memory voltage being the only thing required.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpl Ledanek
I've already been trying to oc my 8400 a bit. in combination with an Abit IP35.
I have some guestions:
-if i put 2.0 or 2.2v in my bios (what my memory needs to get up ) i only see in everst all the time : 1.92v :/ It looks this is a realy voltage because my memory have errors at 1000mhz+.
-If i overclock, should i change the 63% of CPU GTLREF
-I also have a vcore drop . bios is f.o. 1.3=> cpu-z shows 1.20v.
What should i believe?
-Also everest shows my bios version is : 13 ?? Are there updates so one of my problems could be fixed?
Yes i have a 40mm fan on the pwm and im now water cooled on my NB. It was ok about a week ago with temps of about 35-40 idle. But now it seems to be 48-53 idle.?? Is my temp probe for the pwm broken ,
It might be worth re-doing the bolt mod; it might not be making proper connection.
I did a quick test on the new Beta 16.B09, with my E8400, and this new Bios sucks big. For starters it makes my idle voltage vary (according to Cpuz 1.44). Ie. 1.31-1.30, now this might not seem like a big deal to many people, BUT how bout doing the same thing at load voltage, and it has made the vdroop worse. Ie. at load 1.31-1.27, 1.26. At least with my other Bios there was no variance (Bios 14), and vdroop wasnt quite as bad. Also thanks ABIT for adding a couple more memory dividers that are completly useless with a high FSB, unless of course this board has hidden slots for DDR3. So what was the point of this BIOS again??? It was meant for E8000series CPUS?
I had an earlier version 1.0 board and did the mod just by putting screws in place of the springs, and didn't think any further about it. Now I just received a new version 1.1 board for another build, and after reading some recent posts, still have a question.
I understand that I can remove the small white pad in the center of the central heat sink. However, can or should I remove the brown pad over the heatsink for the voltage regulators - or are those necessary for electrical isolation? Can I use a conductive thermal compound there?
Ben
You need to remove the brown thermal pad and use some non conductive paste for the Pwm`s like Mx2 as AS5 is conductive.Quote:
Originally Posted by BenSanford
Thanks for the advice all.:)
Are using one of the AUX headers to run it and controlling the speed through Uguru Fan EQ panel.
Speaking of which..
I clicked on Optimise in the Fan eq settings in set up and now all the fans are very quiet.After leaving the fans settings i returned to the main screen of Uguru and saw their is a mode select button when i can select different fan settings Quiet,turbo, normal etc.
I selected turbo and (of course the fans grew louder) however Uguru locked up,tried pressing Ctrl+Alt+Del but in the end had to reboot.I have tried all the other fan settings using the mode button but each time it just locks the program up.I have tried quite afew versions of Uguru but each time it ends with a reboot.
Current version is 3106.
Anybody else had this problem.?
I had quite a few problems with uguru until I had updated to the latest version, you might want to give it a shot. The latest version that I've seen is 3.107 and you can get it from here:
ftp://ftp.abit.com.tw/pub/download/utilities/uguru/
I've got my TT120 plugged into aux1, at first it seemed like it would control it when plugged into the cpu fan header, but it started acting up and wasn't speeding up and slowing down sometimes after reboots. After I moved it to aux1 those problems went away..
Thanks for the vote on confidence Ron 61 & MADMAX22:up:Quote:
Originally Posted by MADMAX22
so far I still got the board in the Newegg wishlist...still not sure what ppl are taking about getting a "MX2???":confused: I know the AS5=Artic Silver 5, which I have used before. The MX2 is new to me....the PWM I'm also not sure, but I guess it has to do with the North and SouthBridge Cooler that Ace has on his pinned topic:confused:
BTW: Where else can I get an Intel Core 2 Duo E8400 Wolfdale for less than $236? Someone posted this same CPU for $215???
if you are the ragged edge where changing a ram or cpu setting with just enough voltage to support the old setting, that will upset the apple cart...i generally will increase voltage first, save and then re-enter the bios to increase FSB or dram ratio....that way you eliminate the bios trying to set a higher voltage while simultaneously trying to increase FSB (cpu clock) and/or FSB to memory ratio....of course, if you are way out, it is just going to beep at you or you'll go into a black hole.;)Quote:
Originally Posted by PossumK
what are waiting on..a gold invitation to the Abit IP35 Pro club:D...it's an excellent board...best bang for the buck.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpl Ledanek
Thanks for the link.:toast:Quote:
Originally Posted by HaTaX
dang! now the E8400 is out of stock!!!! :mad: Grrrr....I guess I just have to get the mobo and CPU cooler for now...I'll have to recycle my old HD and 7900GT..and wait what sale comes on President's Day.:shakes:
ace which is the better of the two,IP35pro which i recently fired or the IX38Quad GT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
can someone help me? :)Quote:
Originally Posted by mysticwizard
Sure hope this works for me, been struggling to figure out my "spontaneous reboot" issues. If I remember correctly, when I started playing around with these settings with a 65nm, I had the same behavior. DOH, my brain sucks! :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
Quote:
Originally Posted by scorpion
both deliver about the same performance...advantage goes to the IX38 which has less vdroop and also two full 16x PCIe slots (at 16X speed) in addition to having a third 16x PCIe slot working at 4x speed.
Its only today that Komp[lett.ie got my IP35 PRO for RMA after I posted it to them 9 days ago. I hope to have a replacement board by friday next week.
lets us know if it works better.Quote:
Originally Posted by chawks2
i found that 60% CPU GTLREF would fail wPrime 1024M stability bench but at 61%, it was a go at the very top of my overclock of 4.2ghz.
:) :) thanks for the feed back
You may look over here.Quote:
Originally Posted by mysticwizard
Try update BIOS to 14 or 15 version.
ftp://ftp.abit.com.tw/pub/download/bios/ip35/
This thread is for Pro...different mobo and BIOS.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PossumK
ah ha! I have a Corsair HX-620, and I have heard about issues with that power supply. Luckily once I get that first successful bios save done after the flash, I never have boot problems again. It only occurs after a bios flash / clear cmos. The settings I suggested above seem to help get past that first save...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
actually, the bug I'm referring to might be tied to the Corsair HX power supply. When I go for the first bios save I'm not overclocking at all. I think it's something in the cpu parameters / voltages and the abit EQ protection stuff. When I set all that stuff by hand and disable all protections, I can usually get a good first save. After that I'm golden...
Order placed...just gotta print ACE's mod list so I can take to hardware store.
What is/where to get this MX2:confused: not sure if this is equivalent to Artic Silver 5:confused:
MX2 is slightly better than AS5
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...86020&Tpk=mx-2
AND...MX2 is not conductive like AS5 is under heavy or extreme pressure...MX2 is a safer paste to use when doing the heatpipe mod...the safest paste is AS Ceramique; absoultely zero conductive.
thanks Ace-a-Rue & ThatGuy16, learned something new again.:up:
I always thought AS5 was the :banana::banana::banana::banana:, until today. Will just have to pick this up locally at Fry's since I clicked "purchased" already on the mobo and HS.
and maybe pick up the E8400 since everyone seems to enjoy this CPU.:D
now if I could only go back to my powdercoating issue
I am using bios 16.B04 and if I use uGuru from windows it messes the fan settings up and I have to clear my cmos. It seems uGuru in windows and uGuru in the bios are not in sync with each other. Clear your cmos and set the settings in the bios.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bastard-Nation
Ive been using mx-2 for a few months, honestly the diffrence is maybe diffrence is 1c, it could be anything, from application, not enough paste, to much paste etc. I Prolly go back to as5 whenever I re-seat again
What version of uGuru are you running?Quote:
Originally Posted by derektm
so 16.09 bios do you guys recommend it? If it fixes some of the vdroop with quads and is stable like the 16.04 I am flashing :) Just need some of you that are running it already to confirm so...
For whatever reason every BIOS after 16 B03 reports higher CPU temps for no good reason whatsoever. Perhaps they do fix some things but Abit doesn't seem to be in a hurry or willing to state what the fixes are.Quote:
Originally Posted by Volkswagen
Gents, thanks to A-a-R, it appears the GTL reference voltage (63%) may have been the culprit. I was convinced it had to do something with my RAM being overvolted, but the jury is still not out - 10 hours is pretty solid tho. Means I have more room to oc, AND this is all on AIR!!!
http://www.chawks2.com/images/Puter/...0.Wolfdale.jpg