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Where did you guys find the E bios for NF7-S? On Abit site I see a 112 bios? Linky please? Thanks:DQuote:
Originally posted by Iceprizm
I got it. Im now running 200.45 fsb syn. At 11x. I switched to bios E. Using timings 5222. I was able to score 16125 on 3dmark. Seems stable, going to loop mem and cpu benchmarks overnight.
I have a Chieftec Sever Case w/ a 450 watt PS in it, is that OK?
That depends who made the PS.
Two 80mm rear exhaust fans & a 80mm intake fan. I was looking into a chipset cooler & the Thermaltake active ram cooler. Any thoughts?
The nForce2 NB seems to run pretty hot, if you plan on doing heavy OC then get a chipset cooler for it. I've never used an active ram cooler, never needed to... if you are planning to OC the RAM that much then you will need something to cool it down... that depends on you.
Should I buy a cooper shim for my CPU/cooler install, can I use the past that comes with the 7+?
You really don't need a shim unless you are REALLY REALLY REALLY REALLY careless, crushing the CPU core is harder than it sounds... not to mention the shim will bring ur temp up. It is always suggested to use AS3 or any better thermal compound instead, a few bucks will give u around a 5C drop, not bad I think.
Should I modify the case & add a intake fan on the acrilic window, or add a 120mm exhaust fan on the top of the case? Is the fan that came with my video card ok?
Blowholes are awsome. However in a perfect situation where you have the same CFM on all case fans, you really want the same number of intake and exhaust fans. Then again, more fan will only help... I say get a blowhole, and put the fans on the side too! Oh, and the video card... if you plan on OC'ing it, get a better cooler..
What do I need to cut on this $285 chip to make it faster, I thought the ASUS had a jumper that made the MB go to 333FSB.
... :rolleyes: ... hmm... where should I start... yes there is a jumper, but we are talking about overclocking here, so if you go back and read the ENTIRE thread you should realize hpw we are trying to make ur cpu run faster than 333FSB. If you are new to overclocking, go visit some more overclocking forums and overclocking guides and ask around, it can be confusing to learn.
What program do you use to monitor & get all of these stats?
What sucks is A7N8X doesn't allow MBM5 yet... so you really don't have much choice unless you have a hardware temp monitor. Personally, I use BIOS, Asusprobe and my little hardware temp sensor for temp monitoring. Now if you are asking about how to monitor the speed... you don't, you set the speed in BIOS and run a few benchmarking programs to see if the system is stable... it willl be part of basic overclocking.
Don't hesitate to ask if you need help (but of course read BEFORE you ask)! Good luck on OC'ing (if you plan on doing it).
TheDude: Look again, we are talking about the A7N8X here, hehe. The Asus'ers are overtaking the Abit thread, muahahhahahaha!:D
Hi guys,
reading this thread I saw that the suggested method of cutting the L12 bridge is by using a sharp knife/scalpel etc.
Seeing that many are reluctant to try it in case they cut deeper, I want to propose using the method that gimmpy has already mentioned.
I have used it myself successfully on a 1000MHz Duron (Morgan core, same as the Athlon XPs) and it is quite simple:
All you have to do is get a working PSU and use the +5V line along with the ground one from a molex.
Just touch the two dots of the L bridge with the two pins and the current will blow the bridge.
I had to keep the two pins on the dots for 1-2 secs and then there was a blue flash over the bridge along with a “tsaf” sound.
When I booted the cpu, the original multi was changed alright (that’s why I did that on the Duron)
I used an old PSU from a 286, that could be started up by an on/off button, even when not connected to a mobo, and just cut the 2 wires from a molex,
But you could do it by shorting the ATX plug with a paper pin and attaching multimeter needles on a molex.
Read this thread for more info and pics.
So, with the bridges being the same on all XP-like cores, you should be able to cut the L12 bridge the same way.
And with no visible trace of the cutting.
Quote:
TheDude: Look again, we are talking about the A7N8X here, hehe. The Asus'ers are overtaking the Abit thread, muahahhahahaha
Thanks...geesh...like I'm not confused enough already!:D
About post above...blowing bridge too scary for me! cutting mine today with exacto...ER is on high alert!:D
Hi all,
I just *quickly* read through all replies, but there is one thing I didn't manage to get a good answer at. When overclocking the FSB without CPU modifications (cutting bridge) to 199 for example, which should be possible as I have read. The mobo I use is a Asus A7N8X (non-deluxe). Is it necessary to alter the CPU and mem VCore yourself, or will this be automatically detected and changed?
Thanks
tommygun,
Welcome to Xtreme :)
Thunderblaat,
Welcome to Xtreme :)
When overclocking you'll need to adjust the voltages yourself as you start going up. If you notice instability, a little more voltage is usually the easiest thing to try. Hope this is what you meant ;)
First of all, without basic CPU modification (unlocking it), you won't be able to change the multiplier hence I doubt that you will hit 199FSB with the default multiplier.Quote:
Originally posted by Thunderblaat
When overclocking the FSB without CPU modifications (cutting bridge) to 199 for example, which should be possible as I have read. The mobo I use is a Asus A7N8X (non-deluxe). Is it necessary to alter the CPU and mem VCore yourself, or will this be automatically detected and changed?
In the world of overclocking, nothing comes without work... so the answer is: nope, no automatic voltage adjustment.
What you do is when you are overclocking and have started to lose stablility, try putting more voltage to it: speed = need for more power = hotter temp = need for better cooling. On the A7N8X the max VCore and VDimm are pretty low (w/o vmod of course), running on SLK-800 and SmartFan II I am able to max them with 50C fully loaded.
But always remember to keep an eye or two on the temperature.
Yes, this is what I meant. Thanks, as you must have noticed I'm pretty much new in the world of overclocking.Quote:
Originally posted by N8
Thunderblaat,
Welcome to Xtreme :)
When overclocking you'll need to adjust the voltages yourself as you start going up. If you notice instability, a little more voltage is usually the easiest thing to try. Hope this is what you meant ;)
Once you see the copper traces below the cut, you have most likely cut enough. It really is pretty easy with a new exacto and high power mag. glass (and a steady hand). You just keep going over the same tiny line you make with the exacto until it is deep enough. The real key is the right amount of magification and good light. You can always re-connect the bridge as long as you haven't cut too far down.
I used a big ass steak knife and just put the point of the knife in the middle of the 2 lines (bridge)... and then rocked the point back and forth steadily to wear out the 2 lines. Forget cutting... just wear em out by rocking it... It took me 15 minutes to do this coz i was paranoid of cutting to deep.
Then I put it all back together and then booted the rig. Sure enough, instead of posing at 166bus...it posted at 133.
The weird thing is when i clear the cmos, it posts at 100mhz bus but then in the bios it states that it is at 133mhz bus. Maybe i shouldnt of used the steak knife? hehee
Oh btw, I am noob so if i can do this on a $300.00 (first time OCing and PC build) ... anyone can.
It might not look as pretty as theyxacto knife users but then again who care right?
-AzianAvenger
I am not 100% certain but I remember reading a thread that the BIOS sometimes do post at 100MHz even with no CPU mod. It may possible be an nForce/ASUS problem rather than CPU.Quote:
Originally posted by AzianAvenger
The weird thing is when i clear the cmos, it posts at 100mhz bus but then in the bios it states that it is at 133mhz bus. Maybe i shouldnt of used the steak knife? hehee
i was also wondering if this has something to do with kg-7Quote:
Originally posted by Nohto
By chance do you think this could also be causing the problems with the kt400 chipset as well as some of the newer Kt333 chipsets? IE the KD7-E. Supposedly the KD7-E is basically a KX7 board with higher voltage settings available. I wonder if using a 333FSB processor on the KX7 would effect the 210+ FSB speeds that were so easily obtainable while using a 266 FSB processor?
(amd 760 chipset) not wanting to post with tbred b..
does anyone have succes story with kg-7 and xp +2800??
would like to hear it..
v*
This is my first post here so I'll try not to sound too stupid. I have an Athlon XP 2000+ (Palomino)
Soyo Dragon Lite KT333 MB
512 PC2700 Ram.
Whenever I overclock FSB above 142 I get blue screens and corrupt file mssgs. I tried upping vcore and locking dram at 133.
My CPU came with multiplier already unlocked and its set at 14X
Is this procedure possible and/or recommended for my system?
Thanks in advance
OMG, Aceman and Praetereo are the best! :smileysex
I never thought of using the PSU to blow the bridge like a fuse.. but it kind of worries me to think about what errant voltage could do to other parts of the chip.. 8-/
I would like to know whitch jumper to make the prosser default to a 200mhz fsb
Score: 12054
Date: 2002-12-27
CPU: AMD Athlon(tm) XP/MP/4 1691 MHz
GPU: NVIDIA GeForce4 Ti 4200
OS: Microsoft Windows XP
Res: 1024x768 32bit
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Compare URL: http://service.futuremark.com/compare?2k1=5458846
What a great thread, but can I please ask this newbie question:
I have a A7N8X and 2700+ that is locked at 13 and will not post if I try to set it higher or lower than 13. I see what cutting the L12 bridge is doing, allowing the default 166 to drop to 133, but in addition to that, if I want access to a range of 9 - 14 multipliers, what is the best unlock for that?
I have seen someone use the "U" conductive pen to close L-3 5th, and also the wire in the socket. I am assuming I need to do two steps here....but hopefully without the blood :toast: I'm anxious to do this cause I have 2 sticks of 256 and 1 of 512 Corsair 3500 XMS, ATI R-9700, Koolance Tower (cooling blocks on CPU, NB, Video, two WD 1200-JB & 1800-JB drives), Vantec Stealth 520 PS, and a PC Geiger that is pretty interesting.
Did I say that I love this forum!
Quote:
Originally posted by STEvil
I never thought of using the PSU to blow the bridge like a fuse.. but it kind of worries me to think about what errant voltage could do to other parts of the chip.. 8-/
A lot of people have done it with no problem at all.
(I am still using tha Duron with the altered multiplier)
Some have even used the 12V line.
I would say the 5V does the job and it is safe.
Just DON'T use anything else (a battery etc).
If you have a working PSU (let's say from another PC) and a molex adaptor to spare, you're there in a minute or two.
If you have to short your PSU and modify a molex, maybe you will also need 5-15 mins,
but I would prefer to spend them there and only a sec over my cpu, than struggling with the knife and the magnifying glass over the cpu for 10 mins.
And the best part is that there is no visible change on the cpu.
You don't have to worry about covering the pit if you need to connect the dots again
And if you ever need to RMA the cpu for whatever reason, noone will notice. ;)
Scottsman - 14 multiplier with 142MHz FSB =1988MHz, you are probably hitting the max on that Palomino unless you vmod it. Generally FSB OC has a greater effect than multiplier OC, look at page 4, 4th post from the bottom I wrote a little instruction on OC'ing with the max FSB, follow those you should be able to pass 142FSB. Basically, 14 multiplier is way high. ;)
happy001 - There is a jumper on some boards that allows you to set between 100x2FSB or 166x2FSB, usually located close to the CPU if that is what you are asking... if you are OC'ing pass 166FSB, use the default 166x2 jumper, the 100x2(200)FSB one is for really ancient CPU's.
Mikee - Both the conductive pen and copper wire works just fine for the 2700+. Conductive pen is a little faster and easier but the wire trick is neater... also be really careful not to bend the pins when doing the wire trick. I have yet tested to see if breaking the 3rd L12 would unlock the CPU too. So unless you are in a lot of testing mood, do one of the two tricks and then do the mod on the L12, and you should be able to OC that baby pretty well.
Ok, since I've helped answering quite a few questions... if anyone here got some experience in setting up a TV with the system please direct yourself to one of these threads, need help setting my my A250 Ultra ViVo here... and I am totally n00bish in that stuff. :p Thanks, helps greatly appreciated!
naw im wanting to make the cpu default to 200fsb or 400ddr like the barton this board will suport it they were denoing 1 at comdex
Thanks for the info. Unfortunately, 141fsb at 9X was as high as i can get it without corrupt file mssgs and blue screens. I upped the vcore and dram voltage still no good. I tried locking the dram at 133, but still nothing. I cleared the cmos before i started. The only thing i changed ,other than that ,was cpu from 100 to 133.
Any other suggestions?
Thanks
Whats your VDimm and VCore at right now? It maybe possible that something else is bottlenecking the CPU from reaching over 140s on FSB... what PS/RAM/MoBo are you using? I am still convinced that you should be able to OC over 140s on FSB... hmm...Quote:
Originally posted by Scottsman
Thanks for the info. Unfortunately, 141fsb at 9X was as high as i can get it without corrupt file mssgs and blue screens. I upped the vcore and dram voltage still no good. I tried locking the dram at 133, but still nothing. I cleared the cmos before i started. The only thing i changed ,other than that ,was cpu from 100 to 133.
Any other suggestions?
Thanks
Soyo Dragon Lite KT333
400 watt ps (not sure of brand name)
2 X 256DDR PC2700 Nanya
Vcore 1.8
DDR 2.6
RAM is just industry standard, but 141!? That seems horrible :confused:
First thing I've noticed is that your VDimm is rather low, have you tried pumping it higher to see if it helps? Not sure what timing are u running at so maybe you can try relaxing (rasing) the timing up to see. Finally if you are running a lot of devices on the board and you are using a generic PS then it is possible that you are not supplying enough power, try disabling some devices and see if it helps.Quote:
Originally posted by Scottsman
Soyo Dragon Lite KT333
400 watt ps (not sure of brand name)
2 X 256DDR PC2700 Nanya
Vcore 1.8
DDR 2.6
RAM is just industry standard, but 141!? That seems horrible :confused:
Not sure about your brand of RAM but some RAMs really don't OC that well, but I am sure your chip can handle it tho. Hope this helps.