3770k IHS Removals - CPU temp dropped from 79C to 71C

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by N17 dizzi

Nice one Conquistador, glad you finally found a way.

Did you stick the ihs back down? I've bought some arctic thermal glue to do the job after new tim and lapping but I want to know what others have done

---

Thank you.

I did stick the IHS back down. I first applied the TIM to the naked CPU, then put it in the socket and put the IHS on top of it without any glue/tape or whatever. Then just make sure when closing the socket everything stays in place.
I feel it makes it easier to mount your cooling and there is less change to destroy your CPU. Also, I think I could only get a very, very small temperature drop if I would go direct die.

Good luck!

Direct die will give you better temps allways. The IHS is like 3mm thick, that's some thermal resistence right there + the loss of thermal transfer due to the IHS beeing concave.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Conquistador SW

Thank you.

I did stick the IHS back down. I first applied the TIM to the naked CPU, then put it in the socket and put the IHS on top of it without any glue/tape or whatever. Then just make sure when closing the socket everything stays in place.
I feel it makes it easier to mount your cooling and there is less change to destroy your CPU. Also, I think I could only get a very, very small temperature drop if I would go direct die.

Good luck!

---

Thanks mate,

I will let you know how I get on tomorrow. I hope I don't get a perma warranty version!

I certainly will be taking my time like you did, bought 3 kinds of thin blade today. So prepared for this one :)

Don't worry, it's easy to remove with the right tools ;) It took me less than 5mn...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Eeky NoX

Don't worry, it's easy to remove with the right tools ;) It took me less than 5mn...

---

Well are you lucky there :mad:

2 of my fingertips were actually bleeding after my 2 hour adventure with this CPU. The blade I had too use was so damn small the blunt end (is that the right word?) cut my fingers. :D

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Conquistador SW

Does it look like this with your CPU's?
There is no way anything can get between that, not even my very thin scalpel.

---

My 3770k was just like yours and it took me 10 min to remove IHS with a Stanley knife.

Attachment 127174
Attachment 127175
Attachment 127176

From the picture it looks the same indeed. I tried a stanley knife that looks about as thick as the one you used, but I actually broke the edge of the blade several times and it would not split the IHS form the PCB.

But I got it in the end, so it doesn't matter. Did you get a nice temp reduction?

I'll quote my response from another post in case it helps anyone here:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by itznfb

Went to Lowes and picked up a pack of TaskForce scraper blades and a Kobalt snap blade retractable knife. I used the scraper blade to work the corners with the CPU standing on it's side blade pushing down rocking back and forth. Then connected the corners with the knife. Took about 10 minutes to do the first one. I've done 3 more since for other people which took about 5 minutes. Takes a lot longer to get that crappy glue off though.
Attachment 127061

---

Attachment 127182
Attachment 127183

You can see in the shot of my CPU that the lid was actually pressed into the PCB with such force that it left an impression in the green coating. Which is why it was so difficult to get a blade under the lid.

Yeah, I saw that post. Maybe I was to scared to push the blade in the PCB and that's why it wouldn't budge.

Again, looking at those pics from the last page, INTC is really missing the boat here and screwing themselves. That TIM is so poorly applied and way too much of it. They would be served very well by just cleaning up the manfacturing process on the application of the TIM. That is just really poor.

RussC

All done, lapped with fresh AS5 (have no liquid metal atm) It has shaved 10c easy. Pics and temps to follow
:)

Cut the top of mine 3770K last nite, but the die height is less than the old intel/ athlon dies I had nice spacers for. Unfortunately its not possible to measure actual thickness with a micrometer. Has anybody actually measured it up at all?

Best guess is its about 20-21/1000" so i might use so 19/1000" cardboard washers I have possibly with double sided cellotape to protect the core.

The IHS is 100/1000"

The die thru to rear componenets is 84/1000 - pcb 42/1000 is 42/1000" for die and rear components which look to be similar thickness so halving it gives the 21/1000" but possibly die is a little thinner?

what I want to know is why the hell arent there ivy bridge shims for sale yet. it has been weeks. surely someone with the proper skills has noticed what is going on. I guess the people who were selling athlon shims grew up and moved on.

there is no difficulty to designing it because the intel integrated heatsink already has all the right measurements built in. making an ivy bridge shim is just a matter of the right person cutting the right material...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Holy_COW

Did you removed IHS, replaced TIM and reused the IHS? or you left die "naked" with direct contact with HSF?
12'C is a lot, is Intel using the crappiest TIM they found?

Guess I will have to do the same as soon as both 3770K's arrive, will do some before/after tests.
Too bad the only HSFs I have to test are the stock Intel and a Corsair A70 I have lying around ... when I see the results I will have to decide if A70 is enough :P

---

I reused the IHS. The socket presses hard on the IHS so its locked tight. I dont have the stuff to mount a Thermalright archon on direct die. You will also need a spacer to protect the die. Else it will be like the dead thunderbirds in the past :)
BTW Some are getting worse results without IHS. It all depends on the cooler and the heatpipes. If you cant hit enough of them you have less cooling capacity.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by st0ned

Direct die will give you better temps allways. The IHS is like 3mm thick, that's some thermal resistence right there + the loss of thermal transfer due to the IHS beeing concave.

---

No it does not. If your die will only hit 1-2 heatpipes instead of all 4-6 it can get worse. You need the correct heatsink for that. H2O is perfect for the JOB.

I popped the lid on my 3770K, replaced the thermal paste with Coollabratory Ultra and then used PK-1 between the IHS and my Raystorm. The temps are absolutely wonderful. I had too much time between when I bought my 3770K and installed it so I got antsy and popped the lid before I got a chance to record the temps in stock configuration.
Attachment 127317

Thank you guys for sharing, i learned something new today, i thought that the CPU will ruin if i remove the IHS :p:

I really like to try, but my temp. is just fine :up:

We are talking about IB here, if you have either a SB-E or a SB don't do this unless you want to kill your chip ;)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by babalouj

I popped the lid on my 3770K, replaced the thermal paste with Coollabratory Ultra and then used PK-1 between the IHS and my Raystorm. The temps are absolutely wonderful. I had too much time between when I bought my 3770K and installed it so I got antsy and popped the lid before I got a chance to record the temps in stock configuration.
Attachment 127317

---

why your cpu-z shows 8 threads (HT) and linx only 4 (HT off)?
no wonder the temps are so good

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by st0ned

We are talking about IB here, if you have either a SB-E or a SB don't do this unless you want to kill your chip ;)

---

So. this method is not apply for SB-E or SB ?

Only if you want to kill your chip. Both SB and SB-E have the IHS soldered to the die, what will more likly result in to the chips death upon opening. On another hand IB has a normal ( aka sucky ) thermal paste between IHS and die so you can pop the IHS "safely"

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by koc

So. this method is not apply for SB-E or SB ?

---

read the thread title. 3770k.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by st0ned

Only if you want to kill your chip. Both SB and SB-E have the IHS soldered to the die, what will more likly result in to the chips death upon opening. On another hand IB has a normal ( aka sucky ) thermal paste between IHS and die so you can pop the IHS "safely"

---

Well i don't want to ruin my CPU, but i will tell my friend about this method to try with his IB, thank you

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by McDown

why your cpu-z shows 8 threads (HT) and linx only 4 (HT off)?
no wonder the temps are so good

---

The temps are actually better with 8 threads. I use 4 threads to get max temps. Prime95 w/ avx using 8 threads actually gives me ~2C better temps too.

The attached screenshot shows this exactly, the max core temps across the board are lower with 8 threads. Everyone knows that 4 threads (or the number of physical cores w/o HT) stresses the processor more in Linx on SB/IB which is evident in the temperatures and the GFlops.
Attachment 127327

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by babalouj

The temps are actually better with 8 threads. I use 4 threads to get max temps. Prime95 w/ avx using 8 threads actually gives me ~2C better temps too.

The attached screenshot shows this exactly, the max core temps across the board are lower with 8 threads. Everyone knows that 4 threads (or the number of physical cores w/o HT) stresses the processor more in Linx on SB/IB which is evident in the temperatures and the GFlops.

---

It looks like you are using old linpack libraries.

Is there a safe way to mount direct die for 24/7 use?