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2 Attachment(s)
Right i have one of these for my TEC water chiller project. without it the build wouldn't be possible, as im trying to fit ALL the required components on the INSIDE of a case.
Ultrasonic2-s-TEC-liquid-chilled-pc
Anyway i have investigated the issues with it's inability to bleed and i believe the resolution is pretty simple. For me the issue is like this
water is returned to the RES at the top which then slams into the acrylic wall. It then pretty much has no other option but to go around and down and into the inlet of the pump. There is a cutout on the right top but the velocity is still to high so very little water is able to rise up
So to me the resolution is simply cutting off the top wall of the acrylic baffle, so the incoming water no longer hits it and therefore goes all the way into the res which allows the velocity of the flow to be reduced and the bubbles can now float up.
I also cut some more away from the bottom of the Arylic baffle so the inlet of the pump didn't have to suck most of it's flow from the incoming full of air top hole.
Problem solved see pics
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Sorry for bumping this, but I've had to do a re-build recently and thought I'd post on some issues I've had with this res.
The reservoir is just as hard to bleed as before. I'm still having the same problems with the P1 tank. I simply cannot get the reservoir to bleed itself. I can literally see the bubbles simply flying out of the tank inlet right into the pump inlet. Even after about 24 hours of running at the lowest pump setting, no bubbles are bleeding themselves from the loop.
To bleed the loop properly, I have to stop the pump, and manually remove the bubbles. I do this by manually manipulating the tubing so that all the bubbles group into one position, pinch the tubing to make a single bubble, and lift/tilt the reservoir so that the bubble escapes into the air pocket in the tank. This works pretty well in a test loop built on a desk, but when I install a much more complicated loop into my PC, it's going to be impossible. Are there any solutions planned by Koolance for this issue?
WRT the other tank, I have tried the new bleed kit, and it hasn't made a difference. Pump left running for many hours on lowest setting, bubbles remain in the loop. However, due to the added complexity of the bleed kit and the way the acrylic seals the inlet/outlet from the rest of the tank, I cannot manually bleed the bubbles from the loop.
Any ideas on what's going on? Maybe I have installed something incorrectly, but as far as I can tell, I have followed the installation instructions to the letter.
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WEll i've struggled with this thing and have nodded it a few time the actual problem is the fill port is to low so it is IMPOSSIBLE to fill the res up completely . since my post before i dremaled the hole so the air can get out of the res and be filled right up .
by the way i also did the RMA thing on it and they send me there fix whihc only partially fixes the issue .. cutting back the inlet port is the real fix
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The problem I have is the P2 tank will not bleed at all. It's not that the bleeding is taking a long time, it's just not happening at all. It may even be the case that the bleed kit has made things worse, I do not remember it being this hard before.
EDIT: As originally suspected, there are indeed bubbles trapped near the inlet/outlet, behind the acrylic partition, and therefore cannot bleed to the outer part of the tank.
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Tried a new loop today, with only one XSPC RX120 radiator. I even filled the tubes and radiator before starting the pump, so most of the air was already out.
However, now, I am even having problems getting the pump started. Flow rates are extremely low (hardly enough to push bubbles around the loop), and the pump is making grinding sounds whenever it is switched on. It seems there is air stuck at the pump impeller.
Time to get rid of the bleed kit?