^+1 ,40 bucks plexi here..every two years get a new one ,Quote:
Originally Posted by Sideroxylon
no cleaning involved :ROTF:
Printable View
^+1 ,40 bucks plexi here..every two years get a new one ,Quote:
Originally Posted by Sideroxylon
no cleaning involved :ROTF:
FYI, here is a picture of my long term test just a bit ago. This one has a PMP-400 pump in P1 with the short (shared) reservoir plug.
No problems, just looks like I need to top it off a little, very happy with the day to day use.
http://martinsliquidlab.files.wordpr...ngtermtest.jpg
FYI, tested pump PQ with the serial kit installed and got the same result as having about an 18" piece of 1/2"ID tubing to serial connect.
http://martinsliquidlab.files.wordpr...lpqdetails.png
http://martinsliquidlab.files.wordpr...comparison.png
Great info Martin :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210
How noisy are 2 pumps vs 1? I found the pump in my DD Delrin Bay Res way noisier than in my old XSPC res. Probably because of the way how the pump mounted :shrug:
Can't speak for Martin's experience (obviously), but in my two loop setup, there's not much of a perceivable difference between 1 vs 2 pumps in operation (at the highest speed setting). They are, however, fairly loud, with some high pitch whine noticeable, which to me is moderately annoying - this perception, of course, is highly subjective, I have no measuring equipment to quantify this in any way. The case (ATCS 840) is about 1.5m from my listening position.
Thanks Mac, that is exactly what I wanted to know. I was hoping that Koolance res is quieter cuz the pumps are mounted from the sides, but I guess I was wrong :(.Quote:
Originally Posted by mackintosh
I think it would be more accurate to compare that tank with our standalone reservoirs due out next month. They don't have the same plumbing challenges as dual pump+reservoir units, although ours will probably still cost more because they're solid acetal. However, value vs. materials is a less objective argument in my opinion.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sideroxylon
Based on our tech calls, I think the majority of customers have little to no issue with the unit apart from time required to bleed the right-side reservoir. We are looking into modifications that can be made to improve upon the design. Customers that aren't running flow through each reservoir independently don't have to use the inlet/outlet of the right tank at all.
:p: I don't think waiting for a part to leak on your hardware (because it's cheap enough to put up with) is a viable option for most cooling enthusiasts. If that's the case, grab a couple of milk jugs and caulk some nozzles into them. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by coolhandluke41
Martin's posted some noise tests here.Quote:
Originally Posted by McDown
We're now shipping Rev1.1 of the RP-452X2, which has some changes to the LED hole placement/orientation to improve intensity of illumination.
Tim
Tim, I swear if I ever make a loop to see just how cheap I can build a loop for, I will be stealing this EPIC idea :ROTF::clap::clap::ROTF:Quote:
Originally Posted by Koolance
i've read all 5 pages but still have to ask a silly question cause my english is not very good.
So i ordered 2 pump, this res, and a serial connector kit. What i have to do, step by step, for "dual pump, single loop, lower tank only" scenario?
Should i install the bonus acrylic piece into the res or keep original?
I installed a second pump and utilized the serial connector, an easy install especially with all the info in this thread.
- I got two quick questions. I noticed that the "plug" has changed color a bit.. its kind of brown now.
- I put a silver coil in the same res with the "plug" would this be an issue?
I notice there are a few negative posts on the forum about this product, I agree the bleeding could be better. However my experiences with this product have mostly been favorable. I wanted a device to facilitate a dual pump setup, easy access to monitor my fluid level and reduce clutter in my tower. This product did exactly what I wanted.
It's not about how cheap or expensive particular product is, it's all about the ease of use and the soul purpose of having one, specially when it comes to bay res.Any time you see threads like this ;Quote:
Originally Posted by Koolance
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...=268486&page=2
and the reservoir that needs " Informal bleeding guide video"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j7g3R...layer_embedded
... you should know better not try some"milk jugs" explanation ( BTW I was getting exhausted watching this video),I have few Koolance products and was going to get that Res. but i won't till i see some improvements ( perhaps new rev./ modification )
Since when blowing 120$ on bay res that is PITA to bleed is a viable option for most cooling enthusiasts ?:p:
We've acknowledged the difficulty of bleeding the upper reservoir. It's not a perfect process and we aren't ignoring that. As mentioned, we're testing several modifications to make the right-side tank easier to bleed. A few XS members here have also made some suggestions for current customers that work rather well.Quote:
Originally Posted by coolhandluke41
Tim
Thank you for your response Tim ,i'm sure Koolance will take care of it in no time :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Koolance
Hopefully the Koolance fix arrives sooner than later. I was all about the RP but now I'm leaning towards the Monsoon.
OK...
Been playing with it..
Guys direction says we need to mount it like this:
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...S/IMG_0691.jpg
makes sense because its the only port with 3 screws.. however... lets think about it from a flow perspective... this doesnt help the right side...
So you need to mount it like this:
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...S/IMG_0693.jpg
Now lets relook at that.
That seals the top right res by putting a straight pass though.
That should also force the left side to do all the bleeding and not right side.
Its important that u connect the two reses.
Now when u serial them up like this:
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...S/IMG_0695.jpg
You can see u got P1 out.. going straight to p2 in... which means then it goes to that acrylic top i changed,
bypasses the right side res completely, feeds directly into P2,
And then out the system again.
This way u get the LEFT side doing all the bleeding, which is the easier side.
You guys want me to show u the DDC version now? or do u think u guys got it?
Tim i think you guys just got the side mixed up.Quote:
Originally Posted by Koolance
It works, if you do it to the top one... because as i said, it blocks the top left res, which is the problem side.
;)
Great, and I bought both res's too...and the connector kits. :shrug:Quote:
Originally Posted by D749
Naekuh: hmm, somehow one centrifugal pump having inlet going _from_ _below_ doesn't seem to me right. Even if it will work, if lower pump is first, imho it might affect a bit performance.
Im gonna borrow this guys picture:Quote:
Originally Posted by churchy
http://w7sp5a.blu.livefilestore.com/...814.JPG?psid=1
So the P1 IN = bottom left hole... water goes inside that...
Then it hits a wall with slash which forces bubbles to go escape...
The inlet for the pump is the hole on top.
This will pull water that hole... which is the inlet on the pump, then out P1 OUT.
Then you have a koolance serial bridge, which forces water to goto the TOP right hole.
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...S/IMG_0695.jpg
If you put the serial plate on that hole, it will force the water directly into the Pump's 2 inlet. The hole where the guy put the 90 is the inlet on P2.
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...S/IMG_0693.jpg
Which then the pump pushes out the Rear P2 OUT.
This way, you completely BYPASS the right side.
The right side becomes extra volumn, when you tie the two res's together by removing that separator plug.
The Right side is the problem side.... so just bypass the right side, and use the left side for the bleeding.
If the two res's are tied together, then well, both sides will become = due to gravity.
Performance... mmmm.. u know whats funny... skinnee and i were talking about @ CES.
LOL, we came to the conclusion it would be very difficult due to the massive size on the D5, to get both Candy and Eat it too, in a sense.
But i can tell ya, 2 D5's even with an imperfect top, will still outperform 1 D5 with a perfect top, any day of the week, with its eyes closed.
Martin also mentioned smoother bleeding with the acrylic bypass in the upper reservoir instead of the lower one. We didn't design it that way because there are scenarios where bleeding was worse while doing that. In normal upright orientation, if it works best for an individual customer to place their connecting pipe on the upper rear ports and the acrylic bypass in the upper tank, I say go for it! :)
Tim
Yeah, I'm pretty well convinced there are multiple ways of doing it. To bleed any loop you just need a place where water is calm enough to allow bubbles to rise to a surface...doesn't really matter where that is in a loop. It could be before or after either of the pumps, but it might help a bit to make it first to catch the larger pockets of air before they get diced in the pump. Having the main reservoir first also helps with priming/filling, but even that can be done with some variation. In my test I probably should have moved the connector pipe to the top as Naekuh shows since I used the acrylic insert in the right/upper.
I am with Naekuh on the connector/acylic insert. I liked using the insert in the top/right reservoir so I could utilize the lower ports in the left/lower reservoir. It's not really meant for that, but I thought it was a bit easier than using the original baffles so less air gets trapped in the right/upper reservoir.
You could omit the acrylic insert all together, but then you'll have to either top off the right all the time or push the air back into the loop. With the insert in the right/uppper, you'll still have to bleed off the air there, but there is less of it than with the baffle.
The connector pipe is also optional...you could easily place a block in between the two pumps and just use the loop to connect the pumps in series. I even had one user say he thought doing that was better for noise? Haven't tested or noticed that myself, but who knows.
The only thing I'm really sure about is that I made it work a few different ways, and there are likely a dozen other methods that will also work..:D
well that serial acrylic insert basically asks you this question.
Do you want your inlet in the center of the res? or do you want it in the lower portion of the res?
Because the serial insert has a oring, im fairly sure it will seal that compartment.
This is why i said, you need to open the separator plug, so you can use the right side as extra storage.
Then the bubble isnt trapping on the left side.Quote:
Originally Posted by Koolance
Ultimately, i would say in the manual, allow extra tubing in the rear so bay res can be pulled out and tiled so all the holes in the rear are submerged, and repeat until you got water almost to the top of the right bay.
Soooooo, is that also the best way to fix up the 402 and 452? I've got both, running serial...2xd5 and 2xmcp350.
Just want to say both my res have settled over last week and are now topped to the brim with absolutely not 1 bubble circulating and no more gurgling or water fountain sound from the res either.
When my aquaero 5 arrives sometime soon hopefully I might try the acrylic loop in the top right like Martin suggested though it looks like it doesnt seal as well because it wasnt designed to go up there because there's no recessed lip for the o ring.
Been playing Crysis 2 in eyefinity and just finished. What an awesome game once you get crossfire working with no flicker! IL2 COD not so good! ;(
Love both my Res Koolance! :up:
This is hurting my head... so is the serial solution working or not working?
Still can't decide whether to do this bay res or go for a dual top or try some other method of putting my 2x Koolance 450S's in...
http://www.koolance.com/water-coolin...p402x21_p0.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by Phatboy69
When u got screws on each side compressing that oring.. i dont see a problem.
:shrug:
That black ring is the Oring. :)
Also the pump will be in a state of suction. Water is not compressible.