Hi folks, have you found the compatible memory list for this mobo? Looks like Gigabyte did not release it yet, but just in case...
BTW, which RAM manufacturer/model you personally suggest for it?
Thank you
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Hi folks, have you found the compatible memory list for this mobo? Looks like Gigabyte did not release it yet, but just in case...
BTW, which RAM manufacturer/model you personally suggest for it?
Thank you
Quote:
Originally Posted by psy4fun
Well I've got to say that I like this board a lot and don't regret getting it one bit. As for RAM I have Corsair Dominator 1600Mhz like some other folks have too in this thread. They run perfectly thus far, can't wait to push them a bit. You can never go wrong with Corsair anyway, so yeah...
Currently using G.Skill Ripjaws (Was meant for 1156/AM3 - previously had a P55 setup) and it works fine.
And here it comes ... 8 hours Prime small-fft. My new low-volt 24/7 setup.
@4.22GHZ (222x19) 1.200v :cool: , Primestable :)
http://img.techpowerup.org/091209/Capture018413.jpg
Hey, looking for some input here. I hear the barbs on the NB are 3/8". Does anybody know if they can be changed out with 1/2" barbs?
negative, they're permanent.Quote:
Originally Posted by FeRaL
Wow, great volts for those settings! :up: What batch number is your CPU? :rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam_oslo
Yeah, I like the low-volt too. :)
It is running so cool that I'm tempted to try passive cooling on it, LOL. :D
It is a W3520 (#3848A352).
Prime doesnt stress i7 nearly enough. How about some LinX?
Anyone try running the board w/o the silent pipe or the water cooling? I can't use a soundcard unless I ditch it. :shakes:
Going to get a new GPU soon, but a little 3DMark Vantage run wouldn't hurt. Just a moderate OC of both GPU and CPU for cool&quiet 24/7 use.
have been playing a few of my favorite games on the same setup, and it was fine and stable too :)
24/7 setup, PhysX: Enable
GTX 295 @650/1200/1420 + W3520 @4.22(222x19) , P26259 3DMarks
http://img.techpowerup.org/091210/Ca...2-20091210.jpg
I'm hoping that either Gigabyte or some of the water cooling manufacturers, errhurm Danger Den... will come out with a bolt on Lucite replacement top with 1/2" fittings.Quote:
Originally Posted by lowfat
Easytune is reporting 2 different Vdimm?:
1.64v BIOS set, shows: 1.64v in "voltages" and 1.616v in "HW monitor" ?
http://img.techpowerup.org/091210/Ca...3-20091210.jpghttp://img.techpowerup.org/091210/Ca...4-20091210.jpg
Which one is more reliable? Or maybe i should ask, What is the best to set in BIOS to get 1.65v real?.
Hey Sam, that's a little high drop, on ud4, when I set 1.64v in bios, it read 1.630v in ET6 and when set to 1.66v bios, ET6 reports 1.648v. I found that ET6 reports are actually the real value used.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam_oslo
BTW, did you try to play with the QPI/PLL? I read it could help in stability but you are only using 1.100v
does easy tune still drop the multi down like it did when I had the Extreme?
Cool, I will try this Vdimm. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by phsinc1
I didn't change the QPI/PLL at all to test the effect on stability. It has been damn stable, but I'm not pushing this CPU yet. I will try this for higher OC :).
EDIT: Did change ...
It was a big jump from 1.616v to 1.648v for adding just 0,02v (from 1.64v to 1.66v BOIS sett) :eek: .
But I'm happy as long as the real Vdimm is under 1.65v. Is it really? I'm not really sure after seeing that dramatic jump.
EDIT2: (I see it is flipping between 1.632v to 1.648v on Idle, maybe it is after all).
Anybody has measured the real max-Vdimm for 1.66v on this MB yet?
Now I have some extra voltage on NB, and "one notch" extra on SB, PCIe, and QPI/PLL. With QPI/VVT=1.28v :)
Probably would need more VVT for the next jump, or pushing the RAM (Uncore/IMC), tho.
How does it look? should I adjust more/other stuff ?
http://img.techpowerup.org/091211/Ca...7-20091211.jpghttp://img.techpowerup.org/091211/Ca...6-20091211.jpg
I was thinking about this earlier, i used the swiftech NB-MAX block on my RIIE and even after several mounts of both the swifty block and the stock heat pipe assembly i couldnt get a decent drop in overall temps.Quote:
Originally Posted by FeRaL
I would be concerned something similar would occur with this too.
Have you considered using another set of blocks to replace the gigabyte heat pipe altogether?
Let me start by saying I am not at the level most of you guys are. I have been following this thread from day one and have got a ton of great info. I am going to be building a new system from scratch and plan on using this board paired with a i7-920 for workstation use. I would like to over clock to the high 3ghz range on air. I was thinking about getting the Noctua NH-D14 for my cpu cooling. My main question is there any benefit to buying DDR 2000 over say DDR 1800? I was looking at the 6gb gskill ripjaw kit. Will having DDR 2000 make the overclocking go any smoother?
The D14 and a 920 should go 3.6-4Ghz with relative ease.Quote:
Originally Posted by Thefish1680
There is little benefit with RAM running much over 1600. Tighter timings at 1600mhz delivers i tiny bit more in benchmarks but i wouldnt worry too much if you arent looking for a high set of clocks.
Dropped the hammer on a UD7, 920, zalman9900, and some Kingston DDR3 2000. When I get her torn down and rebuilt I will post up my results, I just hope they fix the speed issue with the Sata 6g controller.
Does anybody else have this problem? When you put your machine to sleep, and when it wakes up, if you set your RAM over 1333Mhz it will default back to 1066Mhz which is annoying. (And ruin your overclock, everything is set back to stock speeds) Anyway stupid Windows 7 sleep mode has always caused me problems, should never use it.
I didn't know about this issue, and it cost me some extra re testing/installing effort today.Quote:
Originally Posted by [HTO]Hunter
I connected my OCZ Vertex 30GB to STAT port#6 6GB/s. I didn't expect to see much performance increase on a single SSD, but it was really surprising to see performance lost. The lost wasn't huge, but it was disappointing anyways.
I had to go back to SATA port#1 (the good old one) and getting the same read/write numbers as my old DFI.
Perofrmance lost using SATA3 ports?Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam_oslo
Oh dear :(
Yep, not much, but should be better. Here you see the difference, specially on small sizes, (and all the way trough).
Vertex 30GB FW 1.41 on both, w7 OS-disk, same SSD tweaks on both.
Left: On SATA 6Gb/s
Right: regular SATA port.
http://img.techpowerup.org/091208/Capture006.jpg http://img.techpowerup.org/091120/Capture027128.jpg
I can confirm this. RAID 0 using SSD's was baaad. Went back to intel controller and all is good.Quote:
Originally Posted by Biker
Ok i'm gonna do it. Classified is going back in. :( I'm still having memory issues with 12gb. Voltages dont help at all. If i can get it to post with 12, i'm ok.. until i reboot, then 10gb. 12gb ran great on the classified. I'll RMA the UD7 and hope to get a better one. Maybe they'll be out of stock and refund me instead..... Ok powering down for the chore...bbl as a trader.... so sorry :yepp: