This really does just keep getting better amd better and better
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This really does just keep getting better amd better and better
Wow that is a work of art, it would be great to remove the heat with a maze 4 on each pelt (3 maze 4's)so you could use both blocks as chillers, seems like a waste to have one for heat removal.
Also with a drop that low, i still think it should have been a double pass, with those numbers I think it would not have impacted the water drop to much. But you would have gained 2 pass over the cool side and that would be big in the chilling numbers...
I love it!
it is looking really good martin!!
Wow this is beautiful, Martin you are truely a artistic engineer. I am really hoping that this performs as well as it looks.
lol... as i said martin, im in no rush. Your work is definitely worth the wait!Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210
Damn thats looking good.
A bit to big for my tastes.
Cool project and great mill work martin! :up:
More pictures
Cool! I've been working on a similar setup. I have a 70x210x20mm block of copper for the TEC's radiator side and when I get the bucks will get more copper to make the blocks for the CPU/GPU loop side.
Want to save cost? Why not alu coldplate on hot side, and alu rad or something from koolance? Hahaha not the best but would work. Or make your own aluminum cpu blocks, thin base, impingement or something or high end maze. Could make yourself a rather high quality kit setup for quite cheap.
:down: LOL nol.Quote:
Originally Posted by n00b 0f l337
You should know me by now.
One thing i hope to pick up this XMAS is a Phase unit from you. :P
Basically i like elite things, unfortunately, they cost a lot. :T
If cost is a big concern, trying out multiple used blocks might be cheaper than milling your own.
eg. sandwiching a couple MCW5002's, 6002's, Maze4's or even some ancient MCW462's/Maze3's with a TEC in between.
Just (if needed) sand down the pressure "bumps," lap 'em, bolt a TEC between 'em, insulate, and away you go. I have no idea what Martin charges for milling in comparison, but 4 blocks could probably be bought for around $80-$100 shipped.
It won't look as cool or fit as nicely, but things usually don't when cost is a concern (ie. function over form) ;)
Then i would of dropped a phase unit. :PQuote:
Originally Posted by THE JEW (RaVeN)
i want some bling factor. Plus this concept has been in my head for a while. Now i can test it to see how it needs tweeking or if it fails completely.
Great concept, I like the idea... Thank you for prying me from the LC section to see this :p:
Martinm210, great work of art as usual. Listen to the devil on your shoulder and get those stepper motors :devil:
Too bad i have not seen the thread earlier, i might have saved you lots of work and inevitable frustration.
Sorry guys, this concept will not work. I thought about this, how to make the TEC more efficient my removing most of the heat with plain air radiator and then cooling the water with relatively small TEC. But this is not going to work.
The formula for waterblock (as well as radiator ) in/out water delta is:
dT= 0.85 * W / F,
dT -water delta in K,
W - total power absorbed/released by water in second, in Watts.
F -water flow in L/H .
Lets take for example one 437W TEC, and lets assume it operates close to its maximum efficiency, i.e. its cold/hot side difference is close to 0 K. For typical flow 1gpm=230L/h, the water will be cooled by
0.85*437/230= 1.6K! If we remember the inlet water cannot be lower than ambient (for radiator to work), it is obvious the net result will be negligible.
Don't forget this 437W TEC will consume additionally 660W of power!
There's absolutely no way to get around this problem and make this concept practically useful.
we are not trying to get ac conditions:ROTF:
You forget a few things of why this is being done.
First off, proof of concept, second off, its much smaller then really any other chiller can possibly be. And more maneuverable in a given small space. They will most likely find that they need more cooling space, on the hot sides, so I hope there willing to move to a more pelt system. 8-10 226w as I said earlier at much lower voltages will give you great water temps a few degrees below ambient for a similar wattage of a 437w pelt. So take it from there, and you can crank up the voltage to get lower liquid temps.
No, i understand this concept perfectly. And i am saying it is not going to work. Everyone just have to think about this more thoroughly.Quote:
Originally Posted by n00b 0f l337
Either air radiator before chiller block or chiller block after radiator should be removed from the design to make it sensible.
You have to see the whole picture. How much of power you are going to remove from computer components?Quote:
8-10 226w as I said earlier at much lower voltages will give you great water temps a few degrees below ambient for a similar wattage of a 437w pelt. So take it from there, and you can crank up the voltage to get lower liquid temps.
Lets, again, take certain number, for example 300W load. You can't remove more than 300W from water in chiller block, or else your radiator inlet will be lower than outlet :) Is it obvious? So, at 1gpm water flow, you can't possibly cool the water by more than 0.85* 300/230 = 1.1C. Is it really a great achievement?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cronos
and you forget that if everyone looked at it that way there would be no such thing as tec and there is really no use for chiller of any kind.
He does have a valid point I posted about earlier. Your better off wtihout the rad in the loop at all, post rad you just won't be able to do too much. Without that radiator you dont have a possible heat entry point.
I agree if you are wanting to freeze everything. but if your just wanting to cool stuff down I don't see why it will not work. we have talked about this before and I be leave he will be testing both with and without the rad. This is more for testing to see what can and can not be archived.
well thats what all the testing is for.Quote:
Originally Posted by littleowl
Thats why i gave martin a ton of other stuff to test all these ideas on.
And i dont mind the waste in money. Its a learning experience. And the amount ive learned on this forum, this is my way of giving it back. :T
Good or Not...
I asked martin to make me a base plate to clamp the two blocks side by side. I'll attach some enzo's NB sinks on the other side and opt for an 8x40mm TEC solution with the hotside aircooled if need be. And could use this unit to replace the radiator completely.
Or maybe i can ask someone if martin cant do it to convert the two blocks to side of a reservoir and have the other sides made of acrylic. My ideas arent done yet. And its only the start.
However that would mean i might need to look at a larger psu now. :\
Love the direction your going in, also that you are keeping your eye on what your were trying to accomplish in the first place.
Man it would be so great to get a miller and a lathe, Someday....
Thanks for sharing this with us...
OK martin you have had some time now!!!! Lets see some #'s!!!!!! :D
lol... hes on a business trip like i am.Quote:
Originally Posted by littleowl