Lapping the 2.4C IHS

Be honest I wouldn't suggest it, my point above was to lap BOTH surface meaning heatsink and IHS, not remove it. I was just showing how small the core is underneath, so when applying thermal paste one can understand spreading it to the edges, isn't necessarily as critical, as the smoothness of the mating surfaces, and the type of thermal paste.

If your going to do it, I'd recommend this method below, and if you feel the center being umovable, it's silver solderd to the core, so leave it (that's nylon thread in the picture NOT wire, it's grey from the epoxy) You simply place the processor into the motherboard (to clamp it down) and "saw" away with the string. It takes time, but using any other object can expose the interconnect trace wires, just under the chip's surface. And especially at the edges;

and yes i got it off but problem with my zalman 6500cu so i take zalman water block and it worked nice with water cooling and ihs off i got nearly 10 temp drop :)

Hey Liquid, thanks for the reply :) I picked my name because I used to IRC a lot, and wanted something unique so that I would allways have the same nick on Efnet. Nailbomb is the name of a band from Brazil, so I figured nobody else would ever take it. Plus I like the band :)

To answer your questions:

Right now I'm running a new MCX 478-V. Nice heatsink, very nice finish on the bottom of the sink. The V version uses the stock retention bracket, and a pair of clips to hold it in place.

TIM: AS5 applied per your directions. I first learned how to do that when I started using Ceramique. I don't think a lot of people are aware and probably still just spread it. When I first showed my friend how to do it, he was skeptical. That is, until he saw his temp drop quite a bit.

I DO think that maybe the MCX478 could stand a bit of sanding thou, so maybe I'll try that and see what happens.

Unless you have any other ideas?

Thanks :)

Oh, just to clarify for me:

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After a week, remove the fan, and shift the heqatsink slightly, this will actually expidite the "settling" and break-in process of the TIM.

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You're not saying to remove the whole sink are you? Just the the fan right (easy to do on the 478-V) and then kind of wiggle the sink a couple degrees in both directions? I had seen that as well on AS's site. The 478 has some bad mama jama clamps on it thou, its pretty damn tight. Tighter than my Spark 7 was. With that sink I could wiggle it a couple degrees each direction.

So, pull the SINK after a week, or just the fan?

Thanks for the warm welcome too dude :)

Liquid, while I'm thinking about it:

Do your 'burn in' your paste by running a max load with something like Prime95, or do you feel its even beneficial to do so?

About the "settling" procedure, Yes, simply remove the fan (actualy you don't even have to remove the fan so long as you grab the heatsink, and wiggle, it from side to side just a few mm. You want to be careful if using the retention ziff-tabs, perhaps avoiding this all together. In fact, if your motherboard has mounting holes, I'd immediately remove the ziff-tab retention mechanism. Ironically, what makes the 478 so effective at dissipating heat, it's weight; is countering that of the ziff-tab clamps. I'd say your only reaping 75% of it's full potential, due to the weight significanty reducing mounting pressure.

In so far as buring in the paste. I do not, but many do, and Nevin did say that turning on, and off power to the CPU, does help expedite the "break in" period. He didn't mention Prime-95, but my philosophy is not to stress the CPU if it's not being stressed under normal circunstances. If you want to stress it, just use it.

You probably have what is arguably, the best air-cooler on the market, Thermalright being the only other brand which in it's class. What is critical with these massive copper heatsinks is air-flow. It may be noisy, but if your spending the money for the best, I'd only match it with the best fan. For 92mm that would be the Vantec Tornado pushing 119CFM. I have this fan, and it's excellent. I imagine it would be quite a match with your heatsink. Finally, while the Swiftech does have an excellent surface, it's one of the manufacturers which use a "finish", and I beleive this protective layer impedes it's conductive capabilties. I would definately lap it, and bring in down to some really fine grits. This company www.easypckits.com (or person) offfers an excellent kit, and it's how I attained the finish below on my 3.0C;

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If your motherboard has mounting holes, I'd immediately replace the ziff-tab retention mounts.

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Am I reading you right: replace the whole P4 retention bracket assembly? I didn't realize that replacements were even available.

Tornado is allready on the way :)

Just to clarify: the 478-V fits in the stock retention frame, and the old 478 uses the thru the board mounting, or
at least I think it does. MCX4000 certainly does.

http://www.swiftnets.com/assets/imag...ed-300x252.jpg

I might try to hit the bottom of the sink, but I don't know. I feel the flu coming on I think :( Maybe later in the week ;)

Well I went to the Swiftech site, and don't see where they've provided for a through-board mounting system for that cooler? I'm perplexed because of it's weight? Perhaps they believe the plastic push pins that secure the Intel bracket are sufficient to hold the weight, which I'm sure they are, but I wonder how much pressure can be excerted, with the unit, and large fan "hanging" there, gravity pulling the unit and reducing contact pressure?

Well, I think you raised a very good question. However if you look at their C/W numbers, they seem very good especially with the Tornado.

And, I've got to tell you, the clips themselves are BADASS. It takes a LOT of force to get them clamped down, so that being the case I'm not sure mounting pressure is much of an issue.

Maybe you could hit them up for a review sample, and see what you think?

:D

I've tried, Swiftech only sends samples to the largest sites. I can get anything from Thermalright, as their much better in that respect. They give small sites a chance. Funny thing is Swiftech sent a sample to [M], and I submit articles to Madshrimps?

But I'm going to write them anyway. Thing is, when I last wrote them I requested a Water-cooling kit, which is somewhat costly.

I think you should give this a try if you can find a pair of 60mm fans, Liquid.

My numbers have been great, but i've been hesitant to state anything final incase i've pulled a boner..

http://www.wcroller.com/los/linkpics/slk10k.jpg

Right now I am running 2444mhz 1.968v with 21c ambient (measured behind an intake fan with ratshack indoor/outdoor thermometer). SETI@home (setihide and cmd line client) gives me a temp of 37c. Loading the CPU down with a game or any of the burn-in wizards I can find (those 64k demos work great for this, too) only maxes me out at 40c.

Idle temps for the few times I have been idle long enough for them to drop significantly were about 26-28c.


Thermalright should give this a try too, and sell SLK-10K's.. i'll let them as long as they send a few to XS (and maybe lanageddon.com) for give-aways :D

Is that the cooler I gave you, that got there in like five days? Email me, and I'll send the photo to my contact at Thermalright, you never know my freind.

Well, I have to say I'm really perplexed:

I got an 80mm Tornado in today for the 478-V. Why the 80mm? If you look at Swiftech's site, the 80mm actually has a better C/w rating than the 92. My guess is the larger hub on the 92mm gives a bigger deadspot in the center of the heatsink.

So, WHAT am I perplexed about? I'm perplexed about how the Tornado, running at full blast, is no better tempwise than the 39CFM fan that I was running before.

How could this be? :(

Wow this is a puzzler. I imagine it's your case ventillation, or lack there-of. Although it's seems your knowledgeable enough that you alrteady have a well-ventilated case. I'd recommend removing the side-panel if it's in-place, even if you beleive your case is well ventilated. leave the side-panel off for a good long time (3 hours minumum) for temp equillibrium. I gaurantee you'll see a minimum 10C temp drop.

And as I've said before, I'll bet my infamous Silver Solder Dropping Collection on it! Which by the way has become a valuable commoditity in it's own artistic right.

I did it. After a´pain i removed the shim

Good job, what method did you use? Did you try the string method? Most don't have the patience, and to be honest I cheated a little, by taking a couple of prys at it, with the ole Xacto knife. hehe

Now let's see the core cleaned up.

by the by, DON'T LAP the CORE!

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Originally posted by Liquid3D
Good job, what method did you use? Did you try the string method? Most don't have the patience, and to be honest I cheated a little, by taking a couple of prys at it, with the ole Xacto knife. hehe

Now let's see the core cleaned up.

by the by, DON'T LAP the CORE!

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i have used a dead mobo(socket)a steel blade and lot of patience

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Originally posted by Liquid3D
Whats the core look like? Is it blackish, or what?

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sorry, hee is the core a bit cleaner

Yes that's look like a "spicey-a-meata-ball". Should overclock like a madman.

But I must tell you that, you may using too much thermal paste. This is an awful lot my friend. With all due respect.

By the by, be careful mounting heatsinks with through board mounting hardware, they are designed to stand-off at a certain height. Enough to apply adequate pressure on the Pentium 4, but removing that IHS, creates a gap. I tried mounting my SP-94, and thank the Lord, the CPU shut's down before frying, because contact between CPU and Heatsink was non-existant. The paste remained un-touched.

You eitther have to sand down the stand-off's, whihc means you have to sand the bottom of the mounting screws as well, because they "tap-out" in the bottom of the standoffs.

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Originally posted by Liquid3D
Yes that's look like a "spicey-a-meata-ball". Should overclock like a madman.

But I must tell you that, you may using too much thermal paste. This is an awful lot my friend. With all due respect.

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yes, i know that. Also i was not the first owner of this chip. i bought from a friend.
Thanks;)

As I said no offense intended. Just looking out for one another.

I spoke too soon. Temps have dropped 3C with the 80mm Tornado, running it at 7V on my Rheobus. Interestingly enough thou, I don't see much difference thou running the fan at full nuts 12V.

One thing I did have to change was my exhaust fan. Bumped it up to a 39CFM fan. So, I DO think its somewhat of an airflow issue. Its a Kingwin 424 case. Spots forf 2 80 intakes, who's airflow will get somewhat impeded by the hard drives, 1 80mm exhaust (now 39CFM) and the 80mm blowhole I cut.

Intakes: Pana H1's at 39CFM
Exhaust: Vantec Spectrum at 39CFM
Top: Sunbeam UVCCFL at 32CFM?

Plus the power supply fans, which are thermally controller, ie SilentPure Power 480. Good PSU BTW, voltages look rock steady measured on a digital multimeter.

Its rumored that some early batches of the Asus P4PE might have problems accurately reading temps, so I have that to contend with as well. Batches Made prior to January 2003.

All my wires are sleeved, and round cables for everything else. It's nice and clean, and the sleeving really isn't hard to do yourself, its just time consuming the first time you do it. :)

i lapped the ihs after removing it just to see. God, tis ihs is very concave.

Strange, lapped my other 2.8C. I donk now if the IHS was more flat than this one or i did i bad job. I didnt apply to much pressure on the cpu, neither put the finger in the middle of the cpu, so the temps ate the same as unlapped.:rolleyes:

Mine was partially convex, partially concave ;)

Draw an X on it with a permanent marker, and then when you sand you can see the low spots. Low spots are where you have marker left.

second attempt. no difference in temps. sanded with 400, 600,1000 paper.
this is before relapping