after reading thru the abit forums, i think the bios was pulled coz it made some boards show up as ip35 V in cpuz... mine shows ip35-e so maybe im just lucky
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after reading thru the abit forums, i think the bios was pulled coz it made some boards show up as ip35 V in cpuz... mine shows ip35-e so maybe im just lucky
Alright thanks. I guess I will just have to flash to 12 and call it good. Wish I could get the faster restart time though. Although the person that the computer is for wont care.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jolly
14 BIOS is quite good with my setup.
Resolves double Post as long as PSU is not disconnected from AC outlet. SP time is just a hair slower than 12 BIOS. This deficit amounts to about 8MHz core speed. BIOS adds HD audio support. USB keyboard works after BIOS reset since the default setting has changed from OS to BIOS. Includes 1:1.60 memory divider.
12 BIOS:
1M SP...16.265 sec
32M SP...15 min 6 sec
14 BIOS:
1M SP...16.297 sec
32M SP...15 min 10 sec
Quote:
Originally Posted by furballi
Where did you get BIOS 14? I only see BIOS 13 on their website.
It's probably too new to show up at the Abit USA forum... Download 12 BIOS. Replace this file with the 12 BIOS file. Be sure to rename this file to m630a_12.bin
http://www.abit.com.cn/bios/IP35-E/M630A_14.BIN
14 bios can be had here,
http://www.abit.com.cn/bios/IP35-E/M630A_14.BIN
its a beta though.. so flash at ur own risk.. though a few guys have sucessfully did it and is qutie happy bout it..
Hey guys, sorry to hijack but what's the difference between the IP35-E and the Pro?
Is the pro worth it for the extra cost?
What cooling do you guys have on your e4300s?
Also what mobo did you have them on before, and what was there max OC on them?
I have a e4300@3.0Ghz on a evga 650i just curious if it be worth the upgrade, also curious how this Abit stacks up against the Gigabyte P35s. This doesn't have solid caps or does it? I hear these are real picky about memory think Firestix DDR2 6400 would work?
Anyone have a working link to one of the Abit OC guides?
They share many core circuits to save $. Pro adds 1394, RAID, two more SATA headers, extra fan header, GURU overclocking, fan control on three AUX fan headers, eSATA, extra GPU slot, and heat pipe cooling.Quote:
Originally Posted by eknny
I would stick with the 650i. For best compatibility, stick with JEDEC 1.8V DDR2 667 or 800 RAMs.Quote:
Originally Posted by Glow9
http://forums.anandtech.com/messagev...&enterthread=y
Does the official 13 BIOS fix the double boot issue?
Quote:
Originally Posted by PC_User
Use 14 BIOS. It's much better than 13. No double post.
I guess I don't follow seems like a lot of people are just using whatever ram and it seems to be fine this sounds like DFI nazis again. MY stix have Micron D9 chips in them so I'd consider them pretty good. So whats the deal with the whole jedec ect ect. Cause I know I can push these pretty high.Quote:
Originally Posted by furballi
Bios 14 beta and i still cant get the fans Eq on this board to Eq, i try every adjustments and still nothing.
Works fine here. There is nothing magic with fan speed control. This board will run fine with 2 wire fan. Check for poper pin location on page 2-8.
Is there such a thing as overclocking CPU? The CPU should run fine at default voltage. Same logic with RAMs. The official voltage for JEDEC DDR2 667 and 800 is 1.8V. If the RAM will not POST at 1.8V, then it is JUNK!Quote:
Originally Posted by Glow9
Thats some low volts for ram or seems like it why does it need so low voltage ram?Quote:
Originally Posted by furballi
The industry's standard for DDR2 667 or 800 is 1.8V. Quality DDR2 800 will POST at 400MHz with 1.8V, and run at +450MHz/4-4-4-12-2T with 2.0Vdimm.
Some vendors will take 1.8V DDR2 667 RAMs and market these modules as "overclocking" 2.1V DDR2 800. That's why some of these modules will not POST with 1.8V/400MHz.
14 is beta and I wouldn't want to risk putting a beta bios on my PC. I'm currently using the 12 with no problems (other than double boot), but since I don't turn off my PC, it's not a problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by furballi
I've just setup my IP35-E and I concur with the insane PWM temps. My setup:Quote:
Originally Posted by NJDevilsFan21
Q6600 Stepping: L26A 'G0'
IP35-E bios 12
Seasonic S12 600W
Water cooled
G.Skill F2-8000CL5D-4GBPQ (2x2GB)
Gigabyte 7600GT (I forget what video card I have exactly)
Samsung 500GB
Pioneer DVD112
Vista Ultimate 64bit
I'm aiming for 24/7 prime stable. I was hoping for 3.6GHz.
The CPU I have seems to be very good. I've been able to Prime for 8 hours (before I stopped it manually) at 3402GHz (378 x 9), loose ram timings so far at 5-5-5-15. The only voltage changes are up 1.415v in the bios and CPU-Z reports 1.304v while Priming all 4 cores (using Prime 25.5, 64bit). Temperatures using coretemp are 57C full load while priming. (Idle is 26-31C)
The problem is that the PWM temps are seemingly insane - while it was Prime stable for over 8 hours, using Abit EQ reports the PWM temps to be at 124C!! I touched the heatsink for the northbridge - which was hot and also the other heatsink near the mosfets - it nearly burned my fingers off! Pointing a fan at that heatsink reduced the temps to 85C. (the PWM idles at 50C)
I've actually replaced the southbridge with a Zalman nb47j heatsink and I've removed the tim from the northbridge and used arctic silver 5. the PWM heatsink, I've removed the tim pad and replaced with arctic ceramique. The fact that the heatsink seems is burning hot to the touch suggests that it's doing it's job?
Nevertheless, I'm planning on taking out the motherboard and remounting the heatsinks etc just to be sure. (A pain since everything is so cramped with all the tubes going everywhere).
When attempting for 3.6GHz (400 x 9), I've upped the volts to 1.515v and this equates to around 1.408v while priming. While it's priming, the PWM rises rapidly (>120C) and then the whole computer shuts off - but it's not like it craps out in Prime at all - it's still reporting that it's ok. I think there's an auto shutoff somewhere - although I think that I've turned them all off in the BIOS. I still have C1E and Speedstep enabled.
Does anyone else get such high PWM temps. I don't really want to point a fan at it as I'd prefer it to be quieter, but it seems like I haven't much choice if the remounting fails.
An overclocked quad will draw a lot of current from the output devices. You must have cold air flowing over the fins to lower the temperature. No fancy heatpipe is going to address the high temp if you don't have a constant stream of cold air blowing on the board.
i wonder what temps would be if you did the bolt mod like on the Pro on just the PWN heatsink.
i'm going to be in the same boat as you kai. i plan on watercooling my cpu and eventually getting a 45nm quad. as much as i love this board, issues with high PWN temps when paired with a quad is the only thing i'm worried about and i also don't want to add another fan to my case just to cool it.
would using copper ramsinks replacing the PWN heatsink help in temps?
Is anyone actually MEASURING the vdroop with a multimeter?
There is little benefit with the bolt-mod if the PWM heatsink is flat. Unlike the IP35 Pro, the PWM heat sink on this board should provide good contact with only two pins and no heat pipe.Quote:
Originally Posted by aiya
How do you expect to evacuate heat from the heat sink without air flow? This is heat transfer 101!