i read somewhere eclipse was a good board the first one tho not the second it said the second was not as good as first but have you used a g15
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i read somewhere eclipse was a good board the first one tho not the second it said the second was not as good as first but have you used a g15
here is my grill mod i finally got it done hope you guys like it
here is what i used
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x...cture001-8.jpg
here is what it looks like from behind
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x...cture004-6.jpg
and here is what it looks like from the outside
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x...cture005-7.jpg
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x...cture006-6.jpg
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x...cture007-6.jpg
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x...cture009-4.jpg
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x...cture011-2.jpg
just modded the top of the tj07 here is pic
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x...cture013-1.jpg
Looking great, keepem comin.
the grill mod looks good man...
What did you use to stick it there tape? and what's surrounding the mesh? looks real clean...may i ask how u did that....i would like to do the same with v2000 panels...
cheers
p.s y didn't you paint the top grill black aswell? also what paint did you use?
i used industrial strength 3m clear double sided tape #4010 and i did paint top mesh darn flash made it look silver tho and paint was duplicolor i used self etching primer and acyrlic black you can see paint in my other worklogQuote:
Originally Posted by disruptfam
i can find this tape at any hardware store yeah?Quote:
i used industrial strength 3m clear double sided tape #4010 and i did paint top mesh darn flash made it look silver tho and paint was duplicolor i used self etching primer and acyrlic black you can see paint in my other worklog
So i need to buy the primer and acrylic black paint?
cheers
tape can be found there but i brought mine from walmart and also performance-pcs.com has it but i suggest you buy it locally its cheaper that way and i dont really think you need to buy primer i had primer laying around from case painting i have been doingQuote:
Originally Posted by disruptfam
this is what tape looks like
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=22268
cheers mate
welcome, also be on the lookout i will be adding more fans, getting new motherboard(p35 or x38 dont know yet), getting new cpu, getting to use my new ram, and adding and removing to my cooling loopQuote:
Originally Posted by disruptfam
very nice case and build. I wish I was patient enough to do those custom mods you are doing.
--pak
Louie's I want list:
MB-Gigabyte P35-DQ6(ORDERED)
RAM-Crucial Ballistix Tracer pc2-8500(ORDERED)
CPU-Intel Xeon x3220 G0(ORDERED)
GPU-EVGA 8800GTX 768MB(I may get thru step-up program or wait till something better comes out)
KEYBOARD-Razer Tarantula(ORDERED)
OTHERS-D-TEK Nozzles(If they ever come out)
Let me know what you all think of this list before I jump the gun and get it
I think thats a great list. And on the step-up, I would wait as long as you can just in case.... Prices can drop and/or a better card can come out.
And is louie your real name?
--pak
no its my nick name
Not necessarily dead.Quote:
Originally Posted by louie101086
We get told the death dots are a short or grounding issue, but what we don't get told is-
If you take an OHM meter prior to the mounting bracket for the CPU you will find the LGA-775 CPU socket and bracket are in no way grounded on these 680i reference boards. For all intents and purpose those metal parts at first appear to be isolated electrically from the rest of the board.
That is, until you insert the CPU. Now, the bracket, CPU case etc are now making a complete ground to chassis ground. Or, at least most boards seem to make a complete ground, not all. On two boards I have seen worked on that were acting flakey we found that with a DC voltmeter we had DC potential between the CPU case and chassis ground when the machine turned on. In one case reseating the CPU fixed the issue, in the second case the problem didn’t go away and ultimately he returned the board for RMA. His new board does not exhibit any DC potential between his CPU case and chassis ground.
So care with cpu WC blocks and back plates is more important with the 680i boards than most. Fixed one "dead" board by insulating taping the Thermalright back plate. Bye-bye death dots.
i thought i got the -- because my bowed fuzion was put on too tight because this isnt the first time last time it happened when i put a bowed apogee gt too tight and the guy told me what you said next time i wont do it that tight
Louie's I want list(*revised*):
MB-Gigabyte P35-DQ6(ORDERED)
RAM-Crucial Ballistix Tracer pc2-8500(ORDERED)
*CPU-Intel Quad Q6600 G0(ORDERED)
GPU-EVGA 8800GTX 768MB(I may get thru step-up program or wait till something better comes out)
*KEYBOARD-Logitech G15(ORDERED)
OTHERS-D-TEK Nozzles(If they ever come out)
I seen this great mod which i will apply to some portions of my case and also my keyboard because i hate the baby blue look on the g15 and this mod will involve carbon fiber film from mnpctech.com. still a little unsure where on my tj07 to put the film i think i will put on mid plate and maybe drive bay covers feel free to make suggestions im always open to new ideas
just got new board just have to wait on cpu to put all together but i did remove heatsink original tim and replace with mx2 also removed crazy cool plate to add thermalright rm backplate for my bowed fuzion
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x...cture001-9.jpg
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x...cture002-7.jpg
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x...cture005-8.jpg
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x...cture006-7.jpg
I'm liking the Millenium Force measuring tape. :clap:
lol thanks it the only one i had at the time which measured mm