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InnocentR,
I actually don't even run that CPU anymore. I run a 1700+ Tbred now @ 2040Mhz...but I've got a 2400+ on the way...I guess I'll see how that thing does on my water. My sig is in need of some updating :)
Pinky,
Good to see you around here :D
Ahh..heh..yeah..I get lazy like that too at times..ok..well..I gotta get cracking at this water cooling stuff..my system is getting way too hot lately...which is nice in the winter for my room, but not so good for OCing =)
You know I've heard about this "unlocking" thing. I'm a TOTAL newbie to this but I've been putting together my own computer for years now.Quote:
Originally posted by deerhunter
Tested the rumor that you ONLY need to connect ONE bridge to unlock the 2200.
The rumor is true, the rumor is true.
:banana: :banana: :banana: :banana:
I connected only the 5th bridge on L3 and have ALL multipliers from 12.5 downward!!!
Anyway, I just bought an AMD Athlon XP 2200 (Mobo: Soyo Ultra Platinum Dragon KT-400, ATI Radeon 9700 Pro, Corsair PC3200 512...if you need more specs to give me an accurate assessment, please let me know) and I'm just wondering what, EXACTLY, I need to do to "unlock" my CPU. I wanna max it out (I've got a lot of cooling features on my computer). Please help!
:confused:
This is the method I used to unlock the 2400+ on my EPoX EP-8K3A+. Take a small piece of wire and make a U shape so that each side is about the length of one of the pins on the chip and then put them in the holes in the ZIF socket that are indicated in the picture below. Instant unlock for multipliers up to 12.5........I used a piece of wire from an ata100 cable. It's a good small guage and works perfect. Thanks to bldegle2 over at AOAForums for the info.
:toast:
Wow! That's a really cool mod! Do you know if this is similar to unlocking the AMD Athlon XP 2200? And does it matter what type of motherboard you have? I've got a Soyo Ultra Platinum Dragon KT-400. Hope that helps. Thanks for the picture! :DQuote:
Originally posted by SPQQKY
This is the method I used to unlock the 2400+ on my EPoX EP-8K3A+. Take a small piece of wire and make a U shape so that each side is about the length of one of the pins on the chip and then put them in the holes in the ZIF socket that are indicated in the picture below. Instant unlock for multipliers up to 12.5........I used a piece of wire from an ata100 cable. It's a good small guage and works perfect. Thanks to bldegle2 over at AOAForums for the info.
:toast:
Shouldn't need to do anything with a kt400 board, unless Soyo fell down on the job and for some reason didn't include this on their boards......thought it was all kt400 boards, but maybe not. This method should work for 2200+ and up and any mobo if needed as it is actually a pin ground that you just don't have to struggle with wrapping the wire around the pins.
Quote:
Originally posted by SPQQKY
Shouldn't need to do anything with a kt400 board, unless Soyo fell down on the job and for some reason didn't include this on their boards......thought it was all kt400 boards, but maybe not. This method should work for 2200+ and up and any mobo if needed as it is actually a pin ground that you just don't have to struggle with wrapping the wire around the pins.
Wow! So you're saying I don't need to do anything? That would be great if it was so! Will my cpu be running at stock 1.8ghz then? Also, what would be the highest, if any, as well as reasonable, speed I can overclock my cpu. How would I go about doing that? Oh, my memory, if needed is a Corsair PC3200 512mb. I actually have not even installed my computer. Still waiting for the case. Just trying to gather as much information as possible before I set it up. Thanks a LOT, SPQQKY!!! :D :D
Hey, cool unlocking technique, and a very simple way to get past the laser trench ;)
One thing though, can someone please give me a step-by-step for unlocking my 2200 and still allow higher multipliers? It's probably already been said a thousand times here, but I'm tired tonight, and I've missed it already ;)
I found this step by step how to oc the Tbred.
http://www.overclockers.com.au/article.php?id=118669
From what I understand, the 2200 cna't be oc'd by much?:wiggle:
so SPQQKY, I'm going to assume the socket mod would work for my XP1700+ Tbred?
*on the 8K3A I bought from you MONTHS ago, I might add :D *
T-Breds of the 1700+ and 1800+ dont need to be unlocked.
They are already unlocked from 5x to 12.5x....
i read that people used silver thermal grease to connect the bridges. i have an xp2400, and some artic silver thermal grease. would i be able to use this to unlock my chip, or would i need to get a conductive pen or another method still ?
Nice 1 ! ;) someone know if it work on a: AMD Athlon XP 2100 (not a T-bred cpu)
:confused:
Is there someone out there who can tell me if it works on a : Athlon XP 2100+ Palomino (0.18u) 133/266MHz FSB
Round and round we go
http://www.beachlink.com/candjac/Tbr...tm#Conclusions
Understand this then ask what you need to ask.
Like How do I water cool this unlocked CPU? :smileysex
quick question - i have a tbred 2200 and soyo kt400 plat...with this combo i dont have to unlock the cpu to overclock...
right or wrong.....
if wrong - will the jumper wire on the cpu base as described for the xp2400 do the same with the 2200 ?
thanks for any help......
ps - i dont know because i'm kind of new to ocing...i havent tried it yet because i'm still in the researching phase
since im asking i guess i'd better give a little info too..lol
on the volcano 7+ before you install it bend the (for lack of a better word) mounting bar to insure the tighest fit and best cooling...i have two systems that are the same...the first ran at approx 105F (actually temp depends on what monitoring software im using) while the second (and 3rd - diff sys) was at 125F....at least until i bent that locking bar...now its (actually both) down to 115F....this tip is probable true to all cpu heatsinks...and yes that 115F will come down futher...guess i'm gonna have some lapping to do....imagine that...a 10F cooler cpu temp just by bending a little bar...absolutly the cheapest tip you'll ever see - lol
thanks again
Title says it all. I have a green Athlon 2100+, no idea what stepping (AGOIA? how to tell?). I'm fairly certain it's a Palomino, because it is green, can someone verify?
Now... I have the A7N8X-Deluxe, with DDR400 ram, but of course due to the fact the CPU's multiplier is locked at 13x I can't run anything but 133mhz fsb. I want to run my fsb at 200 or higher, of course... So i need the following multipliers: 8.5x, 9x, 9.5x, 10x.
How do I get these multipliers? I've READ the pcstats article that says I need a dremel, i'm really hoping that's not true (don't have access to one, too scared i'll break it).
I read DOA's link to that big page, but didn't find any info specific to the green 2100+ XPs.
:confused:
All i want is 8.5/9/9.5/10x multipliers.
thanks,
tim
If your 2100 has OPEN L1 bridges AND 4 L3, 4 L4, and 2 L10 bridges, then you have a Palomino. You will have to close all 5 L1 bridges and reset the default HI 5th bit LO. That should let you manipulate the Multiplier in the 5X -12.5X range from the bios.Quote:
Originally posted by Xaphod
Title says it all. I have a green Athlon 2100+, no idea what stepping (AGOIA? how to tell?). I'm fairly certain it's a Palomino, because it is green, can someone verify?
Now... I have the A7N8X-Deluxe, with DDR400 ram, but of course due to the fact the CPU's multiplier is locked at 13x I can't run anything but 133mhz fsb. I want to run my fsb at 200 or higher, of course... So i need the following multipliers: 8.5x, 9x, 9.5x, 10x.
How do I get these multipliers? I've READ the pcstats article that says I need a dremel, i'm really hoping that's not true (don't have access to one, too scared i'll break it).
I read DOA's link to that big page, but didn't find any info specific to the green 2100+ XPs.
All i want is 8.5/9/9.5/10x multipliers.
thanks, tim
If your 2100 is a Tbred (are there Tbred 2100s?) then it will have Closed L1 Bridges and only 5 L3 bridges, no L4s or L10s. You will only have to reset the default HI 5th bit LO. That should let you manipulate the Multiplier in the Multiplier in the 5X -12.5X range from the bios.
Read the posts in this thread to learn how to reset the default HI 5th bit LO...that's what this thread is all about. You could mod bridges, or do the "wire trick". We're not going to repeat the procedures. You could also go to
http://www.beachlink.com/candjac/index.htm link to a new article on Multiplier Workarounds which expains these issues and details the various mods. That article also links to others which explain AMD's Multiplier Code and signal circuits for "understanding what's going on.
John C.
What is the code on the CPU, is the core a little square or rectangle. If you are going to remove the Heat sink & fan to check make sure you have thermal paste to put it back on.Quote:
Originally posted by Xaphod
Title says it all. I have a green Athlon 2100+, no idea what stepping (AGOIA? how to tell?). I'm fairly certain it's a Palomino, because it is green, can someone verify?
Welcome to the Xtreme!
I have a Tbred B 1700+ and i want to use high multipliers... how can i do that ?
http://www.beachlink.com/candjac/index.htm link to an article on Multiplier Workarounds which expains these issues and details the various mods. That article also links to others which explain AMD's Multiplier Code and signal circuits for "understanding what's going on.Quote:
Originally posted by NoOne
I have a Tbred B 1700+ and i want to use high multipliers... how can i do that ?
John C.
Quote:
Originally posted by candjac
If your 2100 has OPEN L1 bridges AND 4 L3, 4 L4, and 2 L10 bridges, then you have a Palomino. You will have to close all 5 L1 bridges and reset the default HI 5th bit LO. That should let you manipulate the Multiplier in the 5X -12.5X range from the bios.
Thank you very much for all the help - your information has been the most helpful out of anyone !
I have taken off my heatsink and taken a high-res photo of my cpu, it is here:
http://tdot-dundas.dyndns.org/tdot/cpu_ath2100.jpg
You can see that yes it's a Palomino (because it has exactly the bridges as you describe, plus the core is square not rectangular).
However, you can also see that the bridges are not only open, but laser-cut so that it'll be damn hard to close em. Argh. I've got some serious reading to do about how to get around that, and then i'll post some more questions if I have any. If you could take a peak at my CPU (the link above) briefly to tell me if i'm in any extraneous circumstances, i'd be much obliged !
Also, from the pic I can see I have "AGOIA" stepping, what does that mean?
thanks,
tim
No extraneous circumstances apparent.Quote:
Originally posted by Xaphod
You can see that yes it's a Palomino (because it has exactly the bridges as you describe...
However, you can also see that the bridges are not only open, but laser-cut so that it'll be damn hard to close em. Argh. I've got some serious reading to do about how to get around that, and then i'll post some more questions if I have any. If you could take a peak at my CPU (the link above) briefly to tell me if i'm in any extraneous circumstances, i'd be much obliged !
Also, from the pic I can see I have "AGOIA" stepping, what does that mean?
thanks,
tim
In the Workarounds article we linked you to, there are several ways to reset the 5th bit LO. One of them is to reverse the setting of the "two" L10 bridges from open/closed to closed /open...that's looking at the bridges L to R when you can read the lettering normally, not upside down. We mention this because the Tbred just closes "one" bridge and since it is more popular now we want to be sure you swap "both" L10s...IF you decide to do it with the L110 bridges. There 3 or 4 other ways it can be done, listed in Workarounds article in section =...
HOW TO EXECUTE, DETAILS OF MODIFICATIONS.
See pics to visualize bridges, hardware and block diagram.
Changing 8X Bit Value's HI to a LO.
Palomino's L10 bridge pair will be Open/Closed...
Believe the stepping refers to something like the latest batch or revision...haven't paid much attention to this. So others can help better here, maybe ask in separate thread.
We cropped your pic to just the bridges in question after we saved it...it's over 900KB, took long time d/l with dial up modem.;-)
Also if you have more questions, appreciate email, address is at site. Easier to explain "details" and quicker response.
Thanks, John C.
Hi John,Quote:
Originally posted by candjac
One of them is to reverse the setting of the "two" L10 bridges from open/closed to closed /open...that's looking at the bridges L to R when you can read the lettering normally, not upside down.
As requested i'm emailing this to you also (just figured other people on the forum might find this useful so I posted it also)
Ok, from what i've understood by reading information from your website, since my end-goal is to have motherboard support for changing the CPU multiplier, I have to do these things:
1. Connect the L1 bridges.
2. Since I want < 13x multiplier, change L10 from Open/Closed to Closed/Open
My question is this: you've hinted in your articles that the reason one has to flip/worry about the L10 bits is because (some?) motherboards cannot handle the 5th bit of the multiplier selection, and therefore L10 manually controls that on the CPU. But, I think maybe my motherboard DOES properly control the 5th bit, as it is very new, and I want to make sure messing with the L10s is necessary before I do it. My motherboard is the Asus A7N8X-Deluxe which has the NForce2 chipset; do I still need to switch the L10s?
Many MANY thanks for your continuing wonderful help!
Tim