Thats good, you had me worried considering the water cooling in your sig. Has anybody tried a xeon on 680i sli board? Thats the route I need to go with my 7900gt's.
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Thats good, you had me worried considering the water cooling in your sig. Has anybody tried a xeon on 680i sli board? Thats the route I need to go with my 7900gt's.
L623 E6600 - cant even dual 32m 3700 mhz
L628A E6600 - 3707 orthos @ 1.65v
L623 E6700 B2 S6 ES = dual 32m @ 3800, wont even orthos 3.7 :(
L629A Xeon 3060 = 3903 orthos with some work
L628B Xeon 3060 = 3903 orthos within 3 minutes of work...
so 100% of my E6600s cant do even 3710, yet 100% of my Xeons run 3900+.
I think its safe to say the Xeons overclock better ;)
Which egg warehouse did the B come from?
hey guys.. i'm running the xeon 3060 with an eVGA 680i now.. its er notddoing too good imo :D prime stable at 3.5ghz and 1.55Vcore. running scythe infinity
heres the link~
sorrie ddidnt post earlier guys~
http://forums.vr-zone.com/showthread.php?t=110175
oh and mine's L629A780 too~
It would be interesting to see how the Xenon's compare to the "B" step Conroes. I definitely think these CPUs are better though considering they cost only like $10 more than the regular chips.Quote:
Originally Posted by fhpchris
@NightRaven
It seems to me that your cooling is the issue with your setup. Your having issues at 1.5v and above which is really more like 1.43 to 1.46 with vdroop on 680i.
Even though you have a decent cooler your not the first that's having temp issues with the scythe infinity.
Your cpu is still scaling well at low voltages so I think that cpu would be doing better if you had water cooling or better.
Also what week is your cpu?
@NightRaven Thanks for info. Maybe check for good contact @ IHS. Good luck.
thanks guys... mne cpu is the same aas fhp.. l62A780... yea prob temps.. testing sstill.. really need some work.. another ting i noticed was vmch.. i onlyy have till 1.7V.. could be tt as well~
I have some initial results with an L629A780 (Xeon 3060) on a Rev. 305 BadAxe1. I have the vMCH turned all the way up, 1.725V and Enchance Power Slope (EPS) is on.
To get +30% or above on the 1066 strap (FSB 346, 3.11 GHz), I had to turn up the vCore to about 1.5V (it works turned all the way down, 1.275V, for lower speeds). I had no problem maxing the 1066 strap (+50%, FSB 400, 3.6 GHz) either, but it is not clear if the system is 100% stable at vCore 1.5V yet. I could POST on the 1333 strap +25% (416 FSB , 3.75 GHz) at vCore 1.6V, but my hacked version of OS X had some problems booting (Windows might have been fine). I am working with 4 x 512 MB of Corsair 5400UL v1.5 at 2.2V (max. for BadAxe1), but I could not use the 1333 strap at all with four sticks in (this is consistent with my results from 4 x 1 GB of Corsair ValueSelect).
So, I am getting the idea that the BadAxe1 is holding this chip back (as fhpChris seems to have had to no problem getting better results with his 3060's). I might try using ClockGen to set the FSB higher than 400 on the 1066, but am really starting to think more about getting some BadAxe2's. My BadAxe1 overclocks my E6300 pretty well, so I had thought it would be good enough to do better here (and maybe it is with ClockGen). But I have two more BadAxe1's in route which I have gotten at half price and now I am thinking about selling those or sending them back.
Likewise, the BadAxe1 is hardly the right board for running 5400UL's with its 2.2 vDIMM limit.
EDIT: I turned up the vFSB all the way to 1.385V (which may have had no effect) and the vCore to 1.55V, now the systems appears to be 100% stable at 3.6 GHz. I should also mention that I am using an Ultra V-Series 500 W PSU which is not be the best for overclocking (but it might not be a limiting factor here either).
EDIT2: Since a vCore of 1.55 V was stable, I turned it down with the smallest steps it to find the minimum needed for 100% stability. The minimum appears to be 1.5375 V.
@bofors.. what cooling did u use?
Nice!!! Good Info guys... Congrats too all those getting 39XX without much sweat :)
Ha, I was just about to fix that omission.Quote:
Originally Posted by NightRaven
I am running a lapped Big Typoon mounted with Artic Silver 5, cooled with a 120 x 38 mm ~100 CFM Sunon:
http://img172.imageshack.us/img172/9251/pict0006gx7.jpg
I have two 50mm Delta's, ~10 CFM each, on the stock Northbridge which I lapped and mounted with Arctic Silver 5:
http://img167.imageshack.us/img167/3056/pict0001bn5.jpg
I am using a CoolerMaster Centurion 5 case with some extra fans up front:
http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/5646/pict0003ho7.jpg
I like the setup of the memory fan.. :D hehehe :rocker:
Me too, actually. For about $7 in fans (Delta no less), you can build a decent memory fan with a little epoxy and two rubber bands. It comes off and goes on with little hassle too. Compare that to the Corsair "AirFlow" memory fan for $22.50 at Performanc-PCs:Quote:
Originally Posted by erwinz
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=20910
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...13-8020_01.jpg
But those 50 mm Deltas spin at 5500 RPM and are a little loud (~ 30 dBA). Furthermore, they are actually a little small, so I ordered some quiet (~ 20 dBA) 60 mm Vantec-branded fans, which are quite a bit more expensive, instead.
When you run a different multi on 680 your reported ram speed is wrong, I bet that is your problem....Quote:
Originally Posted by NightRaven
Why do people even bother to run this 7/8 multi crap on a 9 multi chip? When you figure out the board I am sure your results will improve.
I had similar problems trying to run 4*512, as 975x just didnt want to run 4 dimms much over 390-400fsb. As soon as I took out 2 dimms I could do 430+Quote:
Originally Posted by bofors
Well, I think that is it for the Corsari 5400UL v1.5 then, they are going back to NewEgg. If they were 1 GB sticks (or perhaps v1.2), I might keep them, but this RAM is not really doing me much good here. It seems clear that I want some BadAxe2's instead, so I think I am going to send back the two BadAxe1's I have in route too.Quote:
Originally Posted by fhpchris
RMA's all around: :banana:
I will still need to pick up another 2 x 1GB RAM set though, I guess I will go with the Crucial Ballistix deal at NewEgg: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=124249
hey bro.. nopez thats not the prob.. the prob is heat.. its not stable after a few hours at 3.5ghz and 1.55v... i'm down to 3.45ghz... didnt run lower multi at all just once to find max fsb of the board~Quote:
Originally Posted by fhpchris
I would not trust the onboard sensors, but with a 120mmx38mm sanyo denki and a big Typhoon I saw ~66c load just running dual32m @ 1.65v, so to really prime 1.6 you will need cool ambients or water. I think that even with a silent fan you should be able prime 1.55v easily, so I do not know the problem...Quote:
Originally Posted by NightRaven
Do you have a good mount? Is your heatsink even getting warm? DO NOT TRUST THE ONBOARD SENSORS!
haha okay do not trust onboard sensors! haha using coretemp also.. hsf is gettin warm :) just a little..
i think probably i need a hsf with a smaller base.. will try and test it out when my hsf comes..hopefully.. it'll do better.. thanks for the tip man :)
Just to throw a contribution into the hat.
Stable for 2 hours, but v.hot if the readings are to be believed. Sort of confused by this. Maybe the B28's have a heat problem?
The messed up thing is I then went to do a 3d render with an app called fprime straight after the ortho test. my system hung straight away. Maybe the software has corrupted, as it now hangs even at lower settings. Or have I buggered the chip? Will have to look into that somehow.????
http://img300.imageshack.us/img300/2...oxeon01sn8.jpg
RLM
Your vCore still might be a little low.Quote:
Originally Posted by RLM
This xeon is performant cpu and very good for overclocking ;)
I have one question, with asus p5b deluxe and memory with chips micron D9 (Cell Shock PC8000 4-4-4-12 for example?)my configuration has good for extreme overcloking ?
@+
i would say this cpu flies on water.. but its normal on air.. the combo u stated should be quite well.. :)
ok thanks I'm using aircooling,watercooling and phase change later.
I'm using a similar aircooling (zerotherm BTF90),is king of aircooling for CPU;)
I would not trust core temp or the onboard sensors! My guess is that the problem stems from the use of voltages other than stock; so when we run 1.58v (even something like 1.39v) we are running different voltages through the temperature sensors and they are no longer calibrated or accurate.Quote:
Originally Posted by RLM
The voltage wont damage the cpu, but it does seem to change the way the temperature sensor reads things. Different cpus probably have different resistance in the sensors and running different voltages makes them inaccurate.
My 50W iwaki gets VERY warm, almost burning hot if I leave it on for a week or so (it is made to do survive this, dont worry)
Clearly a 150-200W cpu will make a heatsink hot or burning to the touch if it is actually running @ 83C, and when cold air is comming out of my radiator, I really say that all the sensors are just wrong.
Changing cpus should not let the temperature change 20+ degrees C, but I will say that I think the L628Bs do run hotter and that is why they clock better. It is the same thing with the CCBBE,CCB2E, and CCB1E Opteron 165s, the ones that run hotter at the same settings are the faster ones ;)
4ghz prime on silent water cooling @ 1.4-1.5v just is not going to happen except in a few cases with the top 0.001% of CPUs, so I think that is a bad thing to aim for, aiming for 3.8 with a xeon 3060 on water @ 1.58-1.63v should be easily attainable ;)