I found this place on ebay that sells the Powder. You can pick out a color you like and then show the store in your area the color you like. Just remember anything that is plastic will melt in there oven. So only metals...
Roseys powder coating
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I found this place on ebay that sells the Powder. You can pick out a color you like and then show the store in your area the color you like. Just remember anything that is plastic will melt in there oven. So only metals...
Roseys powder coating
just a crazy thought....those truck bed liner paints...pretty tough stuff...would it be a good candidate for a textured chassis-ONLY paint....not outer panels...just chassis paint...since this gets the bruising from upgrades and removing screws on and off...what you guys think
I want to paint the interior of my case, this guide instructions apply to case interiors too?, because as i saw interiors have different coat. :confused:.
My case is a Quantum Black.
http://reviews.pcapex.com/cases/xg_q...ase.php?page=2.
;)
thanks man.wish i read this guide earlier...
hmmm very interesting, I just did the first coat of my case this morning, waiting for it to dry so I can sand it.
I used car paint in a 400ml can, was only just enough for one coat. It stopped spraying nicely just as I was reaching the last corner. I have another can so should I use it? will I get a better finish?
1st , what color are U using ?? color might vary from can 2 can .. to fix 1st sssssspray problem , turn upside down spray and clear nozzle..:)
[QUOTE=hare;2862447]1st , what color are U using ?? color might vary from can 2 can .. to fix 1st spray problem , turn upside down spray and clear nozzle..:) here is a pic of my latest .
how does it look if you paint the inside of an aluminum case without sanding?
sanding seems like a whole lot of trouble that I'd rather not go through... I'm fine with having the increased risk of chipping paint, but is that it? will it look different visually? the inside of my case is not painted and is just plain aluminum
Wow, what's all this professional painting talk about? A computer case isn't a car, it doesn't have to go through extreme weather and all that stuff.
I was planning on painting my CM690 soon. It's bare metal on the inside and I was planning to just buy 2 spraying cans of black primer and 2 cans of satin black. So now my questions:
Do I have to sand it if I start spraying on bare metal?
Is this 'proper' ? The end result is of course very dependent on how good you are with painting with some spraying cans and what you put on it. I'm also wondering if this would be the good way to go. The only thing I want to accomplish is a decent looking layer of black in my case that doesn't scratch off instantly. Oh, and it has to be pretty cheap, which it is the way I'm planning it.
ahh, man it's real thick stuff . It's made by zolatone
http://www.zolatoneaim.com/tuffrider/index.html
Very nice work hare... Man do I wish I would have read this guide well before I painted. I didnt do any of the advice the OP and you all adviced.
I used a water based paint... spray can... first mistake. All other mistakes stem from not using sanding, primer, and sealer.
I only let it dry for the recommend hour or two and as soon as I started putting rig together whenever I rubbed or scraped it some paint would come off.... so dissapointing. When I have some more time I'll do it right!
One question: Should I just sand the paint off that I put on? How would I go about doing it now that I have already painted?
personally, I'd use the 1st paint job as a base coat Providing that it's going 2 stick. Did U sand the surface well before paint ?? the antec 900's have a decent sealer coat to begin with .. If U did, I'd wet sand that puppy with 1200 untill it's baby butt smooth and start from there..
Here is a pic of my up n coming quad so far..
HARE ps, what's your 3d mark 06 score with that PC
Thanks hare,
I didnt sand it before... so should I sand it now with 1200 and then apply second coat?
Here is my 3dmark06 suicide benchmark:
Normally I get a little above 18k but this is my best ever
Aww crap. K, if U shot that blue straight on to the case without sanding chances are good you'll have adhesion problems down the line . I can't say exactly when but depending on heat , moisture, etc it could be 2 weeks , 2 months , 2 years .. I'd strip it .. take her down untill it feather edges well " if it will " or OFF to base again. then apply sealer and start over with new paint. what brand auto paint did U use ? nason ? ( junk by the way ) or Dupont " chromabase "
( good stuff ) . RULE 1: SAND SURFACE ALWAYS. if it's going 2 get painted the paint has 2 have some way 2 stick . . example paint a piece of glass and see how well it sticks *LOL* the paint will chip off like potatoe chip flakes .
sand blast the glass 1 st then GOOD LUCK gettin it off. same applies for metal ,aluminum,plastic,vinyl ..and surface and type of paint determine what grit paper U should use. A quality paint job is 90% prep time ,10% spray time . the directions on the paint can will tell U recomended grit to use.
The paint I use is Dupont Chromabase 2 stage . It recommends
using 400 wet or dry For a AUTO finish that's going 2 be weathered ( outside )
$75 ? I got paint , reducer ,activator clear coat , candy blue,transparent base ,flash reducer ,1 roll 3/4 masking tape for 115.00.
enough to paint 2 complete pc's inside and out.
That's not including sand paper ,masking paper,primer,or any labor .. Out the door.price varies on color .This price is for Toyota super white and brite blue candy 50/50 with transparent clear . so $75-100.00 if he was going 2 use The same caliber paint ( no spray can job ) *LOL*
I went to Home dept for the metallic blue case . I bought 5 cans of color @ 5.29 a can and 3 cans of Clear coat 6.00 a can . That got me 7 Full wet coats of color and 3 full wet coats of clear w extra . Flash time between coats was maybe 5 minutes shot early evening outside . So many coats with the clear brought the metallic flakes to the surface to look like it does. As the reducer evaporated in the paint it lifted the flakes looking like I shot the flakes in the clear coat . ( OLD SCHOOL ) Today I'm going 2 go to my favorite paint haunts and take pics of products w prices and post it in a few days.
Then my geek bruthas will be in the know in no time and EVERYBODY will be doing candy ,pearl, base clear ,laquor etc jobs.. In I'll show you my spray rig and how 2 build the same for cheap cheap cheap.
HARE
Very impressed Hare... I'll have time here in a few weeks. Keep us posted. :clap:
k, for high end jobs Like your car mentioned ,mercedes, etc I use GLASSO .
EXPENSIVE but very nice paint . contact a auto paint distributor in your area
and ask for a chip chart. then start hunting through it. U can go to
http://www.190slgroup.com/tech/colors/db5328.JPG. here is the metallic blue
your choice #3 or very close to it .Depends on your video card n monitor settings. It's way close looking through mine. here are the other 2 color examples U gave me. http://www.performancecoatings.dupon...!visitorAction... Here is a video on how to color match .http://pc.dupont.com/VideoFiles/CompleteProcess.mpg..
Find a high end auto dealer and write down the tag info n vin #
of the car with the color U want ,them take that to auto paint distributor
and they will mix it up 4 U.. HARE
oooooooooo k , professional auto painter ?? Me ?? yeah back in 79 untill 91.
I figured ok, dudes are modding cases
and building monsters ,I'll bump it up a notch er 2 . If U pay 115.00 in paint , U want it to stay painted and last .. Proper preparation = Didn't waste your hard earned cash on fancy paint for a &!%*## result.As I said recommended sand paper 400 grit, I use 1200. reason : it's not a car I agree
it's inside and not subject to abuse . U can cheat in several ways because it's a PC case . But if ya want your $ to stay on your case . SAND all sufaces
Or cheat and use self etching primer sealer in the spray can .It's up 2 U mang.
I just go with what I know works the 1st time. painting bare metal ALSO changes your base color ( color ) .. would U install a new CPU and heatsink without using themalpaste ? that's a fair comparison .
Here is what your case will look like using self etching primer /scuff with scotchbrite ( red ) tack n shoot it.
wham bam. total prep time n paint 1 hour .
HARE
I have question about using different colors.
I'm going to paint the inside on my new Stacker red.
But from the pictures that I have seen from cases that are completely red inside, I think it is a bit to much.
So I want parts of it black.
What is the best way to do this?
Start with red and spray the black parts after that? Or start with black.
On some parts it would be easier to start with black, because that way there is a lot less masking to do.
But I think the red will not cover the black easily.
if U shoot the black 1st , your red will look darker.
Well here's my CM690 beauty then, took me a couple days and total time spent is like 8 hours probably.
After thorougly sanding with up to 400 grit:
http://s2d1.turboimagehost.com/t/244178_sanding.jpg
Primed properly and sanded with 600 grit. Ready to be painted!
http://s2d1.turboimagehost.com/t/244179_primed.jpg
Painted:
http://s2d1.turboimagehost.com/t/244180_case1.jpg
http://s2d1.turboimagehost.com/t/244181_case2.jpg
http://s2d1.turboimagehost.com/t/244182_case3.jpg
http://s2d1.turboimagehost.com/t/244183_case4.jpg
Last thing I did to it was painting (spray cans) and its ultra-shiny and ultra-smooth now.... should I still even add clearcoat? This feels very strong and it seems to be very well attached all over the thing. I'm afraid a clearcoat will just make it more faded and I'll have to start buffing and whatnot else to get this look back to it.
Very nice ^^ what paint did you use? What clear coat? Did you start with 400 grit wet/dry? Looks great!
I started off with 280 grit, dry. I sanded all the rough edges down (payback time for all those times a case injured me!) and did the surface a bit with it too. Then went over to 400 grit and used quite a few sheets on the entire thing. A good trick was getting the perfect amount of primer on it, and then sanding that down with 600 grit, dry. It felt ubersmooth already then. I sprayed over 1.5 cans of 'highgloss' black paint after that, and that's it pretty much. Haven't used a clearcoat yet.
WEll it looks great:up:
What kind of primer and paint did you use. I'm going to do the same thing. I am just stuck on what kind of paint to use. Car paint I cannot find in a can. Or I havent looked hard enough. I did however find nice wet/dry paper. I want to completely strip my case down to nothing and then sand. Did you use a palm sander? I have thought about that due to the large spaces I'll be sanding.