Removing the A64 IHS

acetone is the active ingredient in nail polish remover; I would suggest he meant isopropyl alcohol as vodka is not something to waste on a CPU :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by douirc

PoL - the basic principal is to relieve the HS weight off the core. you could put your HS directly onto the core, but you risk crushing it. all i simply did was take the foam that came in the packaging with my HSF, cut it into 4 strips and lay the strips around the core. if i rest the HS on top of the foam shim, the HS and core don't make contact. this is a good thing, because when you start to tighten down the HS, the foam will support the weight and act as a buffer. all you need to do then is tighten just enough so the HS and core make contact. you'll know when they make contact if you take measurements off the bolt (or some point of reference) with the HS resting directly on the core. A perfect example of this is AMD's Barton chips. they create a shim using rubber pads on the four corners of the PCB. I'm simply trying to recreate this with stuff lying around the house.

i hope that helps. i don't think i can be any more descriptive. trial by error is always a good method of learning too, so give it a shot!

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Thanks man. It really helped, I get what you mean now.
OK, so a good point would be tighten down the HS and then take it out to check if the contact was perfect, right?
And what about an evaporator? Can I use this foam method?

thanks!

"oh yeah, i'm out there, and I'm LOVING IT!!"

feels good to be naked...2950 prime and folding stable after combined 12 hours at only 38C load!!! next comes 3.0GHz+ :D

Well looks like I was one of the unlucky ones because I just removed my IHS and I have lost speed. Not sure what is up with that but my temps are down 2c which good but I dont truely understand how I would lose mhz. Oh well guess I should throw it back on and see if I can get my mhz back up. I will give it a set in period 1st tho just to make sure. Do yall remove the black ring once the IHS is removed ? I had to tighten down pretty hard to get contact. I think its a good thing to have it there to keep me from crushing my core so I will just leave it for now. :stick:

I've been thinking about doing this to my Newcie 3000+. Do you think I would need a shim with my XP-90 (Regular)?

I really don't wanna stick something flammable (ex Cardboard) or meltable (ex foam) next to my core---as newcie's run REALLY WARM. Arent the newcastle cores VERY large anyway?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by NickS

Arent the newcastle cores VERY large anyway?

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Pretty much just because the 130nm. But not too much. :)

I use a 2 part epoxy putty stick.

http://www.cheyennesales.com/catalog/behputtystick.htm

http://webapp1.drummondamerican.com/...temNum=DN04590

http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS...glm.0&MID=9876

I use a brand called nu-doh. You cut off a piece of the putty stick, then knead it into a ball to mix the 2 parts.

Put 4 small balls on the corners of your a64 and squash them down to the required height with your heatsink.

No mess.

Carboard isn't flamable at the temps a mobo or cpu works on. By the time that carboard lights on fire your board woould have fried.

Lith1um has a great idea, but I've never been that patient personally, there's lots of stuff out there and lots of stuff in this thread to choose from.

Have fun

Well, the putty hardens completely in 5 minutes.

It is a solid, leaving no clean up. Your hands are barely even dirty.

All you do is take a knife, cut off a 3/4 inch piece of the stick. Knead it for 10-15 seconds, and use it before it hardens.

You could make a squished ball on each corner, or roll a thing string out on your desk and shim the entire perimeter of the chip in a matter of seconds.

I know the product, I use it to seal leaks in water pipes temporarily and the like (works on gas tanks too). I think it's a great idea and hell I'm going to try it, but most folks won't have that in their drawer at home ,mine is at the cottage :) and I don't have the patience to wait till I buy more or bring back the stuff I already have is all I meant. Thanks for the tip truly- it's going in the mod book for sure!

anyone try on a sempron 3100 paris core? im thinking of trying it..1.8 mhz is stock im running 2430.mhz overclocked idles at 40-42 c and loads at in between 48-50 c chip will go to 2502.mhz but will idle at like 50 c in heat of summer was 98 c outside today and i have no AC so i lowered the back to 2430.mhz and backed off vcore back to 1.5 had to use 1.6 to acheive 2.5.mhz..PS im running a water setup a kingwin awc1

It's a core, and no matter what code. It'll go down in temps, what will probably mean more oc. ;)

Can't hurt to be honest, but I think you're temps are pretty good really all things considered.

Here are my 3000+:

http://membres.lycos.fr/niaboc79/Pho...20IHS%2001.jpg

http://membres.lycos.fr/niaboc79/Pho...20IHS%2002.jpg

http://membres.lycos.fr/niaboc79/Pho...20IHS%2003.jpg

With my last Venice 3000+ i've won 15° in full and 75Mhz in prime95, i'm at 2875Mhz now with watercooling (water at 35°)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by niaboc79

i've won 15° in full

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WOW... :eek:
That's impressive... :)

i have a 3400NC, looking at better temps cos of the summer

would doing the IHS removal and using my current SLK948U be ok?

ive been wanting to do this for a long time, but never had the balz to do it.... till now.
with a 2x sided blade, it was CAKE!!

3500 Venice:

http://img333.echo.cx/img333/470/pict02572qg.jpg


its *really* easy...the blade is SOOO THIN, it literally slides under the IHS
(in the gap of the "glue" on the one side) and then its sorta like cutting
Tygon tube with a dull blade...sorta

you need to put some force behind it and try to keep the blade FLAT to the
CPU PCB (you *can* shave into it if your sloppy!)

i taped off the blade for my protection and to "mark" about how deep
i thought i should/could go...probly went too thin the first few cuts,
i ended up going around 3+ times

after that it lifted right off



im blow'n away just how thick this thing is!! (.094")

http://img333.echo.cx/img333/5446/pict02595gs.jpg

you did this to your FX55? no wonder you were hesitant. is that a SD chip? nice oc! how's going naked treated you? been able to increase the OC?

nope, its a Venice (3500) and this was the 1st time i ever did this...

HERE is the link to my thread over on OC :fact:

seems to have dropped my temps 4C...and got me to 3GHz :hrhr:

First of all I wanna thank the quality info posted in this thread that helped in my IHS removal :toast:

Now, just a few thoughts about my experience (winchester + XP120 + DFI NF4)

1. I've cut through the rubber with a double edged razorblade without issues. My blade was similar to the one posted by Sai

http://www.seilnacht.com/Lexikon/rasier.JPG

It's safe to put the blade inside until the letters "dreifach..." disappear. It's not necessary to go any deeper and the blase will be far away from those small things around the corner.

2. Unlike many have stated, there was no need to sand off the socket near the lever, since the core was in a higher position. :)

3. It's necessary to sand off the base of the XP120 mounting bracket by the height of the IHS (or a bit less if you want to decrease the pressure on the core). First because if you don't do it, the heatsink will touch in the bracket and there is not enough contact with the core. Second, to readjust the pressure on the core, which decreases because the core will be on a lower position (although you may not want to have so may pressure as originally)

4. It was necessary to bend (not much) a heatpipe (the leftmost when seeing the heatsink with the heatpipes in the bottom) because it touched in a mosfet's heatsink and prevented a good contact with the core.

5. It is highly advisable to unscrew the bolts that fix the springs to the heatsink. In this way is possible to fix the springs with the heatsink base almost in its final position, on top of the core. Later you can screw the bolts again. See the pics posted by Ubermann here: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...930#post864930

Even though, I cracked a corner of my core, but it's running ok

6. I've not tested thoroughly, but atm I've gained 50~60Mhz on both Prime stable clocks and Superpi32M stable clocks (the later about 60mhz higher than the former). My temps went down by at least 6C (with fresh AS5)

Interesting, now do you think this is worth risking my +3200 lbble 0515 apaw? :D In my quest to get to 3ghz on air, 50% overclock :D I'm still at 1.55 volts but temps scare me.

Only you can answer to this question....is it your money after all :)

It will definately helps......but modding and overclocking is never 100% safe...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 4rory

Interesting, now do you think this is worth risking my +3200 lbble 0515 apaw? :D In my quest to get to 3ghz on air, 50% overclock :D I'm still at 1.55 volts but temps scare me.

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Now that I've succeed, I'm glad that I had the guts to do it. In my modest opinion, if you follow carefully the information and tips given in this thread, the IHS removal is not difficult or (too) risky. The problem is to mount huge heatspreaders on top of small naked core.

Honestly, I decided to remove the IHS because I'm planning to buy a X2 until the end of the year (in the US since they are much cheaper than in Portugal). If this went wrong, the only bad thing was to anticipate the X2 purchase and pay more for it.

Also, the fact that my winchester is a bad overclocker would make its replacement easy. Almost any cheap 3000 Venice can do more than 2650.

To sum up, if I had a cpu doing near 3ghz on air, definitely I would not do it, unless I was getting rid of it.

I don't think it's a question of money I could easily buy another one, but I highly doubt it would do as good, Meh I don't think 50mhz is worth the risk, i'll pass for now.

Exactly. Money is never the question, or else the answer would be pretty simple: DON'T do it.

The question is whether it is easy to replace the lost cpu if something goes wrong. In my case it would be near impossible (from what I've seen) to get a venice worse than this.

I removed my IHS which at 1st gave me trouble with less OC. But since then I fixed my raddy and reseated the TDX block. I am now able to get 2838 mhz with 1.52 volts stable where as I was having to use 1.65v.So very nice drop in vcore and gain in stability. Wasnt hard to remove either.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by taco

well.. i took mine off yesterday, and i must say, it was definatly worth the time, temperatures dropped DRAMATICALLY. may i note i have an xp120 w/ 90cfm pana.. you'd think it'd be "dangerous" to mount this heatsink on such a fragile core, plz.. mounted NO problem at all!! this is a 3000+ by the way. heres the results

heatspreader on w/ stock : 32/41c
then heatspreader ON w/ XP120 : 28/35c
THEN heatspreader OFF w/ XP120 : 21/27c !!! woo :D

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Wow they're great results what's the ambient temps?

I'm :banana::banana::banana::banana: out of luck with A64 recently :(

Firstly I get probably the worst 3200+ Venice in history, maxed at 2.6 GHz / 1.7V / water :eek:

Then I bust the IHS off my San Diego, see zero reduction in temps and 0 increase in overclock. Ah well :rolleyes:

I am having a hard time tryin to decide if I should remove the IHS off my X2 4800. My TEC only brings it down below freezing during idle if the fans are on full blast on the rad.
Is everyone seeing 50-100mhz or better on their overclocks after removing the IHS?
I am wondering if it would help my second core OC better since it errors out of Prime95 alot faster than the other core.

Well maybe I spoke a little too soon, it hasn't affected my temps as reported in MBM5 at all but then I think this board can't report temps correctly as I get exactly the same idle/load stock or overclocked :rolleyes:

My waterblock temperature seems to have decreased a few C under load, and although my prime stability is still maxed around 2.75 GHz I can do everything else like Fold/game at higher clocks now, guess it shows what a POS prime95 is really.

has anyone tried the dental floss method of ihs removal?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by babalouj

has anyone tried the dental floss method of ihs removal?

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I have and it didnt work. The floss isnt strong enough. I just used some take to block the razor from going to deep. I wanted to make sure that I didnt hit one of those ic's.

can you put the IHS back on to keep from voiding your warrenty???

or once removed all warrenty is lost??

just put ceramique on it when putting it back on, shud keep it on :confused:

anyhow, im using an SKL948U with my naked A64, can i use a XP90C? i really wanna get one :p: but if i cant use it with my naked chip i wont.

cos i got some money now to finish off my air cooling after giving away fans with sold components, and im going for gold with my cpu air cooling with a naked chip,XP90C and a 92mm Tornado :)


cheers

I wont recommend the xp-90 on a naked chip, I have it and its pretty hard to get it clipped on, I end up bending like all kinds of fins with the screw driver. But maybe if you put some of those stick protection tabs uses to protect things from bumpins. Kinda like the old amd chips had on the corner.

I got the 92mm Tornado also, it's loud and annoying, and at half speed and full speed there isn't even a 1c difference, so get something else.

Tornado ordered, XP90c isnt and wont be :p:

gotta try the tornado out myself on full blast as i didnt get a controller :D rawk!

Got rid of the IHS on my nearly year old A64 3000 NC. Also switched from a XP-90 to a TT Big Typhoon. Had some intial qualms about TT stuff, as I haven't come upon a good TT heatsink in the past. But this one's pretty solid as far as I can tell. At stock temps dropped from 29C idle/41C load to 25C idle/34C load. I'm doing some overclocked testing right now but I can say I ran prime for about 20 mins with no problem at 2.5GHz whereas I couldn't even do 1 mins stable at anything past 2.4GHz before. Didn't have time to run for more than that for the time being, but I'll be doing more testing later on. Very beneficial overall though. Sliced up my finger a couple times though. :p

Mine idles at like 40C and loads at 52-53C

I have the EXACT same setup at work...and it idles at 27-28C and loads at like 38C

Im gonna pop the IHS off the one at home when my waterblock and everything gets here

does anyone know where to get the pads that are on athlon xps or replacements that would work? I dont have any old procs laying around to steal the pads from.

That tornado is gona be loud, I thought i could deal with it but its like a blow dryer at 3/4, can't hear yourself think.

i just ended up buying this http://store.yahoo.com/directron/tn3535.html. now hopefully it will be thick enough.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by babalouj

i just ended up buying this http://store.yahoo.com/directron/tn3535.html. now hopefully it will be thick enough.

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I wonder if that thing is going to retain heat to the ic's and pcb cuz it only has a hole for the core. I also wonder if its ok to put that rubber thing directly ontop of the cpu. I'm sorry I wouldnt trust it. I does look like a good idea though!

Have been reading this thread now -It took a while.
I think I may have a nice NC 3400+.
It is only prime stable at 2700mhz (1,6V) but I cant boot up to 2820 (1,75V)
My temp when running prime95 hits 52-53C (it seems hot when reading this thread).
Maybe getting lower temps would make my OC go higher?
Im using a Zalman7700CU -it is a very big HSF, so I may be a bit worried.
Anyone tried it?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 4rory

That tornado is gona be loud, I thought i could deal with it but its like a blow dryer at 3/4, can't hear yourself think.

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yup, ur right :( im not using this thing (tornado) for 24/7, ill use it for benchmarks and memory testing :)

first of all, heat is drawn out from the the cpu core, theretically, nothing else should get hot. secondly im gonna phase change and it wont be any different than covering the cpu in dielectric grease. rubber is dielectric anyway so it wont hurt. Plus, I can cut out any patern I want from this rubber, I was just going to cut it to go on top of the black silicone from the ihs anyway.

I'm going to try this with my week 21 3200 once I get out of the hospital. If I can get 2.8 at around 1.525-1.55, I would be more than happy. The best I can do so far is 2.73 at 1.55.

But how can I know it is the heat holding me back.
I cant get it stable over 2700mhz -Giving it more vcore doesnt help either.
Im running 1.6V now and it gets 52C at prime95.
I can boot at higher speed with higher vcores but it isnt stable. But it locks up even at 40C -So doesnt this tell me that it isnt the heat?

Mine 3700+ SD clocked to 2700 Mhz goes up to 50c load with Prime, and thats with only 1,5v. Even the water block feels cold. Wondring if i should take of the IHS or just leave it on. :rolleyes:

My old 2400+ Mobile was never over 47c with 2v clocked to 2700Mhz, so something tells me that the IHS isnt doing a god job here.

Hey guys,
Thought some S754/Newcastle users might find this interesting:

3400 Newcastle @ 2.6GHZ with 1.61v

IHS+92mm YSTech 55-57c LOAD
no IHS+92mm YSTech 50-52c LOAD
no IHS - 12v 92mm Tornado 44c LOAD
no IHS - 7v 92mm Tornado 48c LOAD (what im using now)

so now my 24/7 temperature had dropped 7c :woot:

But are you getting higher OC?

Today I tried to remove the IHS, but I havent got a thin blade to get cut the IHS off.
The layer is only about 0.5mm thick.

Im not sure I can thighten the screews om my Heatsink any futher. If I get the IHS off -wouldnt that give me some gap between the core and heatsink then?

i havent tried OCing more yet :p:, mainly co if its unstable and im folding it will mess my production up - im gunna try later tho :D

OK i just removed my IHS, good move indeed
i also stole the pads from an old AXP to lessen chance of core crushage
So far load temps are down 5C and i can use way more volts without seeing temps take a hit, right now i'm finally stabilizing at 3 Ghz on my water setup, temps not exceeding 40C with 1.73 volts

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...ng/IHS-off.jpg

I would really like to know if my Zalman7700CU would make contact to the core after removing the HS?

The problem is that the plate of the MB doesn't let the heatsink touch the core... I had to mod the heatsink... :D

hey guys

this has let me overclock stably 120mhz more over having the IHS on :woot:

currently at 2.72ghz D2OL stable (previous was 2.6ghz due to heat), think i hhave more left too :banana:

how did you mod the HS? Is it a Zalman7700CU?

me?

my cooling is in my sig :) 53c load

No PoL #456

But yor didnt mod your HS to fit the core?

I reading this thread I decided to give it a try so off went the IHS. My Shin Etsu paste is still setting but so far my temps went down 2C and I gained 40 Mhz stable OC. It is not a huge improvement but hey, every little bit helps.

It made me crazy .
Before my winni 3200+ reached 56C at 2450/1.42v so I also decided to give it a try but very worried .
IHS is finally off but with a little break at one corner of the PCB ( not the core ) .
Sanded off the 2 faces of the IHS , placed it on the CPU as original with very little glue at corners then re-installed everything . Damm , it still working but my temp jumped up to 58C at the same speed .
Crazyly , I decided to remove IHS again and put my XP 120 directly on it with no pad .
This decision satisfied me . It works much better . I'm now running 2600/1.54v , 34C idle , 43-44 at load , ambient 32C . Before I tried 2600/1.64v/60C/unstalble .
Really amazing , I gain 150 mhz and my temp is down by 16C .
My sig :
- DFI Lanparty UT nF4 SLI-D .
- XP 120 on nude Winni 3200+ 0444 RPAW @ 2600/1.54v .
- 1G Corsair 3200XL - X800XT .

here are my results

before: 9x300=2.7GHz 1.55volts 53C Load/39 Idle on air
after: 9x312=2.8GHz 1.67volts 40C Load/30C Idle on water

Removing the IHS makes a huge difference with my X2 3800+ processor. I just got it yesterday and after mounting my waterblock the chip went 2.7 no problem 1.45v but my temps were 52C load. I remounted my block thinking that was the problem, same temp. So I removed the IHS and now I am burning in at 2.85 1.56v with temps 29c idle, 38 load. That is a big difference.

How dangerous could be use this technique on a prommy2@r404a modded ???

I could isolate the area surrounding the core with vaseline or nail varnish...whta do u think guys, anyone try it?

Cya.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mbm

I would really like to know if my Zalman7700CU would make contact to the core after removing the HS?

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yes it will for sure

Tried a second time now to remove the IHS.
Damn I cant do it.
I cant find a thin blade to get between the IHS and the cpu.
Yours must have been a thicker layer.
It just pisses me off.
Didt yours come off easily?

take a razor-blade and push it in. dont use it like a saw

But is only the cuttingedge that I can get in between the HS.
The layer is so very thin -about 0,5mm -Is this normal?

yes

People are taking about this as an easy mod.
I would say it is a hard one.
How can you use a thicker blade than what the actually cap is between the HS -I just dont get it. If I push hard -it just give a metallic sound, because I then cut in the heatspreader it self.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mbm

People are taking about this as an easy mod.
I would say it is a hard one.
How can you use a thicker blade than what the actually cap is between the HS -I just dont get it. If I push hard -it just give a metallic sound, because I then cut in the heatspreader it self.

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Removed the IHS, take your time for that,
a few tips:
(1) Processor pins are fragile, set it in foam.
(2) Use breath-thin razor-blades.
(3) Always work on the top margin of the black silicone.
(4) No saw or cut, very gentle pressing in been sufficient completely. Piece for piece around.
(5) Subsequently, where the gap is in the silicone and the black plastic sign, puts a fine screwdriver on, Up-lever and then again very slowly.

Finaly you are lost from AMD (greenhouse) CASE temp.

Clean the processor core carefully with 99% alcohol.

Now maybe you need to mod your CPU Heatsink, so it make a properly contact with the core!

Use Arctic Silver AS5 ......

Tools which do it:

just ruined my 3400+ newcastle ....Very bad..

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mbm

just ruined my 3400+ newcastle ....Very bad..

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lmao no offence, but are you simple? :rolleyes:

Quote:

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lmao no offence, but are you simple?

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No offence but dont know what you mean?

lol yeh i know what i mean

lolmao

but I dont

thoughs SOI cores dont seem to be so fragile....i say as longs that black stuff is there still to help with pressure on the core its all good.

I'm a heavy-handed imbecile and I managed it ok, so if it went tits up for you you must be pretty unlucky.

The next time someone does this if you can post a video that would be great!

I was almost finished and the suddenly the knife hit the core and a piece got off the core. bad luck. maybe I wasnt being patient enough.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DevilsRejection

The next time someone does this if you can post a video that would be great!

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That would be the most boring video ever :p:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mbm

I was almost finished and the suddenly the knife hit the core and a piece got off the core. bad luck. maybe I wasnt being patient enough.

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What kinda knife did you use?

I used a hobby knife which is pretty thick, but I took my time and didn't try to get it of at once, I had to go around the IHS twice.

http://members.chello.nl/~a.bax1/PCStuff/IHS.jpg

http://members.chello.nl/~a.bax1/PCStuff/Hobb.jpg

Can someone please post some pics of Rev.E A64s with IHS removed?
E3 Venice, E4 SanDiego, E4 FX, E4 Manchester, E6 Venice, E6 Manchester, and E6 Toledo.
I want to compare the die size of them to know the difference between E3, E4 and E6.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Enz0

Can someone please post some pics of Rev.E A64s with IHS removed?
E3 Venice, E4 SanDiego, E4 FX, E4 Manchester, E6 Venice, E6 Manchester, and E6 Toledo.
I want to compare the die size of them to know the difference between E3, E4 and E6.

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Here is a pic of my Venice 3000 crappy original paste job...

Using Alphacool Nexxos waterblock and 3x120mm radiator, with IHS idle 39C - load 50C, without IHS idle 34C - load 40C. :clap:

With the IHS on, as soon as I started Prime95, temp would go up to 49-50C and drop down instantly to 39C as soon as I stopped it. With the IHS off the temp doesn't jump around like that anymore, ramps up and down more progressively.

Glad I went to the busy shopping mall just to get razorblades :D

Thank you Nano2k.
Is your Venice E3 or E6?
You can judge it from its product number.
http://www.amdcompare.com/us-en/desk...=ADA3000DAA4BW

Now, I need pics of E4 SanDiego, E4 FX, E4 Manchester, E6 Manchester, E6 Toledo, and E3 or E6 Venice ;)

Just removed it on my 3700+ SanDiego 0522XPMW

http://home.online.no/~andr-sei/Fosc...ture%20002.jpg

Seems to finally get it to prime @ 2900Mhz , watercooled.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Enz0

Thank you Nano2k.
Is your Venice E3 or E6?
You can judge it from its product number.
http://www.amdcompare.com/us-en/desk...=ADA3000DAA4BW

Now, I need pics of E4 SanDiego, E4 FX, E4 Manchester, E6 Manchester, E6 Toledo, and E3 or E6 Venice ;)

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It's E3.

Thank you Fosco.
But, can you post the pic from the top?
Because your pic is very difficult to compare the size.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...id=36244&stc=1

Thank you Nano2k.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Enz0

Thank you Fosco.
But, can you post the pic from the top?
Because your pic is very difficult to compare the size.

Thank you Nano2k.

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Maby later when i have to take the cpu out again. But i thing i`m not going to remember doing it :rolleyes:

I'll compare the pics in this post.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...chmentid=36295E3 Venice (ADAxxxxDAA4BP)
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...chmentid=39683E6 Venice (ADAxxxxDAA4BW)
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...chmentid=43001E4 SanDiego (ADAxxxxDAA5BN)
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...chmentid=37644E4 FX (ADAFXxxDAA5BN)
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...chmentid=41941E4 Venice (ADAxxxxDKA4CG)
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...chmentid=37645E4 Manchester (ADAxxxxDAA5BV)
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...chmentid=44596E6 SanDiego (ADAxxxxDKA5CF)
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...chmentid=39684E6 Manchester (ADAxxxxDAA5CD)
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...chmentid=36445E6 Toledo (ADVxxxxDAA6CD)

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...chmentid=36295http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...chmentid=39683http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...chmentid=43001http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...chmentid=37644http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...chmentid=41941http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...chmentid=37645http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...chmentid=44596http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...chmentid=39684http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...chmentid=36445

Die Size
E3 Venice = E6 Venice < E4 SanDiego = E4 FX < E4 Venice = E4 Manchester < E6 SanDiego = E6 Manchester = E6 Toledo

Now I want some pictures of E4 Venice (ADA3500DAA4BN) and E6 FX (ADAFX60DAA6CD).

I've got a better picture of E4 SanDiego.

Comparing in this post.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...&postcount=491

Not sure how many have actually takin the IHS off then put it back on but my temps were good with it off but I had issues with the TXD block touching the resistors on the cpu so I put the IHS back up with some as5 between the core and ihs. TO say the least the temps are now the same as if I had the IHS off. So its not a matter of taking it off and leaving it as it is just getting better contact between the core and the ihs. I had lost some oc with ihs and now I am back to normal oc + 20mhz. Go figure.

hi..

X2_4400+_Toledo

http://img398.imageshack.us/img398/8443/hpim02167to.jpg
http://img398.imageshack.us/img398/3818/hpim03026so.jpg
http://img366.imageshack.us/img366/5456/hpim03046fc.jpg

before: 1.344volt full load 55C box cooler
after: 1.344volt full load 48C box cooler

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kocsonya

hi..

X2_4400+_Toledo

http://img398.imageshack.us/img398/8443/hpim02167to.jpg
http://img398.imageshack.us/img398/3818/hpim03026so.jpg
http://img366.imageshack.us/img366/5456/hpim03046fc.jpg

before: 1.344volt full load 55C box cooler
after: 1.344volt full load 48C box cooler

---

Your picture is very nice.
I updated this post.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...&postcount=491

Hey on that last pic the 4400+.. On the left side, are those chips or something thats above the surface that we need to worry about cutting?

I'm gona take the top off of my 4400+ and would like to know before i do.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Crazykooter

Not sure how many have actually takin the IHS off then put it back on but my temps were good with it off but I had issues with the TXD block touching the resistors on the cpu so I put the IHS back up with some as5 between the core and ihs. TO say the least the temps are now the same as if I had the IHS off. So its not a matter of taking it off and leaving it as it is just getting better contact between the core and the ihs. I had lost some oc with ihs and now I am back to normal oc + 20mhz. Go figure.

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How did you know it was making contact with the resistors on the cpu? Did it short or something?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Enz0

Your picture is very nice.
I updated this post.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...&postcount=491

---

winchester picture?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kocsonya

winchester picture?

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I want to know the difference between E3, E4, and E6.
So, I'm comparing the die size of them.
Winchester is D0, so there is no picture of it.

I really want some pics of E6 Venice and E6 Manchester now.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by eclypse

How did you know it was making contact with the resistors on the cpu? Did it short or something?

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When I removed the TDX and looked at bottom of the block I could see where the resistors where touching the block. Made nice little marks. Really made we wonder if others are doing the same thing and not aware of it. Not sure if it would hurt anything as long as the resistors arent being crushed but I couldnt take that chance. In the end I lost nothing by putting IHS back on. Like I said before I gained my OC back with IHS on.

Yeah i have the same probs right now.. That and also the block not making perfect flat contact with the die.. I put small stipes of black tape over them just encase they did touch so it would'nt short out if it could.

I dont see why even putting the IHS back would help that.. Those chips will still touch that as well.. THe only reason why it didnt touch before is the thick goop they used.

OK here are my finding thus far. Previously on air using an XP-120 my max stable overclock was 2650 at 1.6V. I then got watercooling and my max stable clock settings was 2700 at 1.56V. Very small improvement after dishing out $500 bones. Now that I finally removed my IHS which took me two tries on two separate days I have noticed my temps only dropped 2-3C LOAD and IDLE 1-2C. Not much of an improvement; however, I did noticed that dual priming (with affinty set to each core) no longer results in an instant temperature increase. Before the IHS was removed my temps went to 38C instantly. I mean the moment I thought about hitting that "OK" button my temps were at 38C. With the IHS removed I actually saw a gradual increase from 27C->31C->35C and from 35C it fluctuates a lot with the max being 37C. Ambient room temperature is 23C. I am currently dual priming and dual super pi at 2800Mhz at 1.55v. Before the IHS this was instant fail, so far so good at 45 minutes. I have to say this was completely worth it. I'm almost certain that the IHS was getting a majority of the core, but not all of it. There must of been a "heat pocket" that was causing instability. I can't believe im actually priming at 2800Mhz at this voltage. This has been an instant failure everytime no matter what voltage I fed it. (upwards of 1.65v)

I highly reccommend this mod!

:woot: