Yeah, I'd return it if possible and go with the EK or wait for the swifty. Hopefully my EK will be here by saturday, if not I can wait till monday. :rolleyes:
Yeah, I'd return it if possible and go with the EK or wait for the swifty. Hopefully my EK will be here by saturday, if not I can wait till monday. :rolleyes:
Wow, that is not very good. I would have thought coming from BP it would have been better than that. My EK block does well and obviously so does Swiftech's. I would try and return it and swap for one of those.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gabe
Is this available yet for 5850? I could really use Three....yesterday! I can't find them available anywhere....
Wow, those Bitspower internals are pathetic....
Agree - bad news on the BP block.
Gotta say the EK 5850 block is performing just fine.
http://shazza53.smugmug.com/Computer...4_9ahEq-Th.jpg
thats almost 3-4mm thick away from the core...bs design
Has anyone been able to make a comparison of the blocks that are already out? From what I've seen it looks like only the EK, Bitspower and Koolance blocks are available for purchase. The EK block performs well, the BP block sucks and no reviews of the Koolance?
There are Aquacomputer 5850/5870 blocks avalaible also.
I'm using (2) Danger Den 5870 blocks with great success. Got them the day they released to the public and have not had a single issue!Quote:
Originally Posted by punkrockpolak
Well, I tried to fit my old D-tek GFX2 on the 5870 and found out that the cooler was indeed hardmounted to the baseplate. Since I was always a fan of using the baseplate to cool the VRM's and wanted to try that now as well, I put the stock cooler back on. I'll have to go out and buy an FC block.
Am not sure what prices do for you guys, but the difference between them is huge out here (the Netherlands):
Bitspower €129
EK €79 - €89
Koolance €99
DD €149
Aquacomputer €68
Since Aquatuning is still not getting my money, it looks like the only reasonable choice I have is between Koolance and EK.
I'm a little confused on temperature's. I'm using a koolance full block on my 5870. All them temps look good in GPU-Z except for the following:
GPU Temp #1 27.5 34 during load
GPU Temp #2 56.5 Jumps to 85+ with 3dmark!!!
GPU Temp #3 50.0 Jumps to 85+ with 3dmark!!!
VDDC Phase #1 Temp: 29 40 during load
VDDC Phase #2 Temp: 30 40 during load
VDDC Phase #3 Temp: 31 40 during load
VDDC Phase #4 Temp: 31 40 during load
The GPU #2 and #3 concerns me. I haven't tried to re-seat the block due to the fact everything else looks great especially GPU Temp #1
I would greatly appreciate any advise! Thanks!
I tested using dual 5870's with DD full blocks. During extreme Furmark stability tests I am getting ~55c. I am ~2c between GPU1,2,3. My VDDC is 49c during those tests again with about ~1.5c difference between VDDCs. all above temps were after Furmark was running for at least 30 mins.Quote:
Originally Posted by Doublejj
I am getting ~33-35c at idle (sitting at the desktop) on the GPU's. My VDDCs at idle are ~35-36
Definitely sounds like you have a GPU block seating issue. :(
Same here with my EK-FC5870.
GPU temp #1, 2 and 3 all within 5*C.
gotcha I'll try resetting the block. Thanks for the help!
Can anybody verify that this http://www.zalman.com/ENG/product/Pr...ad.asp?idx=335 will fit to the 5870 vrm's? It is for 4870's
XSPC Razor 5870 will be available from next week. http://www.xspc.biz/razor5870.php
http://www.xspc.biz/photo/razor5870/1.jpg
http://www.xspc.biz/photo/razor5870/3.jpg
And mosfets are singing: far, far away (from water) :)
Shhh, Eddy! I already bought your block! :P
Full cover blocks should start being truly full cover, meaning actively cooling all major components...
Yo Eddy EK just wondering you guys working on a 5970 FC waterblock yet ? Not sure if you got a pre-release card or not. Just figured you dudes mit with working with Powercolor shrug.
Oh and well hmm your CoolingConfigurator system is not the greatest. I tried to use it and each time your CoolingConfigurator said your EK-FC9800 GTX SLI would not fit my Evga e-GeForce 9800GTX+ P/N: 512-P3-N873-AR which in fact it did just fine. Just saying I took a gamble on the block and it came out fine. But if I just went by your CoolingConfigurator you would of lost out on a sale. I understand you can't test or have every GPU out there but the only change on my older 9800GTX+ from the 9800GTX was the Core and same PCB.
Hi, The 5970 block is ready, but NO ONE has the physical card AFAIK. Therefore waiting for the card and after it will be confirmed we'll soon have them available for sale.Quote:
Originally Posted by Crazystang01
Regarding the CC.com I would appreciate if you could send me e-mail with these info and if possible PCB picture and we'll be happy to update the system. Thanks!
Just recieved the EK FC5870 Acetal+Nickel in the mail. The block looks incredible. The outside has a flawless finish, buth the threads in the acetal had some leftover scrapings in them. They were easily removed however and it's ready to be mounted on the 5870 now.
This is my first EK part and I'm really pleased with the look of it so far. :up:
Does anyone know if D-Tek will be making a unisink for the 5870? The Swiftech heatsink looks very nice, but I have a D-Tek gpu block and am not sure how well I could make them work together.Quote:
Originally Posted by gabe
Not yet, they should ship very soon though..Quote:
Originally Posted by Naja002
I would ask somebody who know this block personally (he designed or used it / saw it working...): EK-FC5850 I bought it for my Sapphire HD5850 which is a reference design.
When I mounted it first (This is not the first VGA block in my life, but I followed the equipped manual step-by-step. I used the equipped thermal pads, and screws).
When I powered up my PC I thought everything is fine, my GPU temperature was ~38 C˙ at idle and ~50 C˙under Furmark load. So I was happy and tried with some Ghz+ overclock because I already achieved the 1000Mhz with the stock cooler (with a little, +0,1V, so it is a good chip...). But the card started to crash at higher Vcores and when I checked the GPU-Z sensor tab I was scared. All three VDDC Phase Temperatures was ~120 C (with 1000Mhz and 1.187V). I stopped the fur rendering and temperatures felt back to ~40 C˙very fast. But this was not only an oveclocking problem, because I had 90+ C˙with stock frequencies and voltages.
So, I dismounted the block and my verdict was that everything was fine. I could see the edge of the chips on every thermal pad. They all stayed on the block (I placed them on the PCB before mount...) and it seemed like they was smoothly depressed.
If I was there anyway, I applied some Artic MX2 on VRM chips and remounted the block. But I had to dismount it again in a sort time because my VDDC temperatures lowered by some degrees only, and my card was unstable even at stock values now.
I don't had any other idea so I mounted it without standoffs. My card is working now. I can use it on stock values but VDDC Temperature is still a bit higher then it was with the stock cooler and it hit 90 C˙at 1000Mhz. So this is not the best state on the performance side but it worse on safety side because the PCB is deformed badly between the RAMs and the VRM (it has a bad deformation between these sections and parallel everywhere else...).
My GPU temperature is always fine, it newer reached more then 52 C˙, but my FATs will die if I would overclock my GPU (which seems to have a lot of overclock potencie).
Any idea?
Hi!
This is something that is definitely not ok.
The Temperature between idle and load should be mush smaller.
I'd suggest you send us picture of the contact to our support e-mail so we can sheck it.
Also, what is your watercooling setup?
Those temps look off idd. I tested my EK-FC5870 @ stock speeds yesterday night, and the results were 21C Idle, 31C load on the GPU. VRMs were about 50C.
I'd expect 5850 temps to be a tiny bit lower, and as far as I can judge, the blocks for the 5850 and 5870 share the same design principles.
I have a big water circuit (FSB->RAM->VGA->CPU->FET->NB) with a very big but passive radiator, so my water is lukewarm but not hot (I could take a bath in it after 1 hour gaming, but it wont boil under any stress test...). This radiator could cool my previous system (everything was the same [CPU, motherboard, ect.] and my VGA was a 4870x2 with an XSPC Razor block). The room temperature is ~28-30 C˙, so I think that 40 C˙for the GPU is not a big number when it operates with a passive radiator.
The VRM temperature (100+) is the problem, this GPU temperature (40-50) would be fine for me (it was ~90 with stock cooler, 60 is not a problem).
Try to put stock cooler back on check temps. And send picture of the block contact to us with stock cooler temps.Quote:
Originally Posted by janos666
Then we'll see what could be the problem. Also water temp under 30min load would be interested to know as bigwater does not convince me at all.
I hope EK 5870 block is the best on market :) Because it has been just shipped to my hands but i still don`t have 5870 VGA :)
Here are the pictures (sorry, but I do not have a camera, I took these with my smartphone and without proper lights...): http://img10.tar.hu/janos666/size1/39217151.jpg http://img10.tar.hu/janos666/size1/39219153.jpg http://img10.tar.hu/janos666/size1/39219152.jpg http://img10.tar.hu/janos666/size1/39219151.jpg
I made a change: I used the thermal pad from stock cooler (RAM plate) to cover the hole (over the VRM) on the block (and I removed the gray pads from the three affected chips on the PCD -> big white and two middle ones) and I used doble layer of grey pads over FETs.
I mounted the block with standoffs and results are as bad as they were last time when I used standoffs. But the back of the PCB is not as hot under the white VRM chip as it was before. I will try to use the stock cooler's thermal pads for the FETs too.
Is it possible that the equipped thermal pads can not transfer the heath well enough? The good contact is proved by the permanent deformations and my GPU temperature is not too high (~32 C˙with cold startup which is near to the ambient temperature and good enough for me under load with a passive radiator) but my FETs will die.
I think that I will kill my card with the numberless block remounts. (And I will waste a complete tube of MX2 compound as a tip. :D)
I replaced the equipped thermal pads with the stock cooler's white snot and VDDC Temperatures are acceptable but far from good (~63 C˙ at stock clock under load). The GPU and the whole PCB where covered by the block are cold. When we reach the VRM area the PCB is lukewarm and it is very hot after the block ends (and stay hot until the end of the PCB).
May be it will work until Geforce-Fermi arrives and I can put this thing to the trash. (Oh, I even more: will SELL it to a looser like me. :) )
The contact looks good.
It can be seen that you dont use standoffs as the pads are very much squeezed.
I hope you checked the card is not bent too much.
I would still express the doubt about the bigwater cooling capabilities to cool your whole system... And blame bad temps on it. :shrug:
lol complaining about temps using a passive rad.
My water temperature after ~4 hour average usage (which ended with some Furmark + Prime95 before the measure) was 38 C˙Yes, it could be less if I switch off the central heating in the room (the room temperature is 25+ C˙). But this is not a steam machine! God! I am complaining about 100+ C˙temperatures (not that my GPU temperatures are not equivalent with the room temperature)!
But again:
- This radiator+pump (very big one + 1100 l/s) was enough for this system before I replaced my HD4870x2 with this HD5850. Which card can generate more heath? (Assume it as a draw and we were discreet.)
- My GPU temperature is always OK. (under 50 C˙at ANY situation, even with overclocked card under Furmark load -> it is 31 C˙right now at idle - with cold water and it is under 40 C˙after some furmark at stock frequencies.)
- I used the standoffs (and the equipped thermal pads) at the first time (I did everything step-by-step as the enclosed manual said) and I had up to 120 C˙VDDC temperatures (all the 3 sensors showed this).
After I dismounted the block at the first time I could see the edge of every chips on every thermal pads.
- I remounted the block without the standoffs and VDDC temperatures were under 100. (Nice surprise.)
But it was still too high and my PCB was malformed. So I had to do something...
- I remounted the block with standoffs but I used the equipped thermal pads in double layers over FETs. The VDDC temperatures was under 70 C˙, I thought that we will finally arrive to our destiny but the card was unstable. Maybe the gross FET covers held some other pads to far from other chips... So, I had to dismount the block again.
- I replaced the equipped thermal pads with ones from stock cooler and now it seem to be acceptable.
Idle temp are: GPU - 31 C˙VDDC ~32 C˙ Load (furmark, stock frequencies) temps are: GPU - 38 C˙VDDC ~56 C˙
Every time I did something with thermal pads (or with the pressure over them) over the VRM area there was a significant change in the VDDC temperatures (it did not affected the GPU temperature). Can you explain it with the other parts of my cooling system? NO.
The difference between the first and the last (up to now) state is 120-56= 64 C˙. But, delta values: GPU 38-31=7, VDDC 56-38=18. This is not far from acceptable. Should I take my cooling system to the trash? No. Should I do something with the thermal conductivity over the VRM area? Yes.
The card is stable now and temperatures are acceptable (with a passive radiator). But I have to get some fresh (and good) thermal pads for FETs if I would overclock the card because the end of the PCB is still hot (and this heath should came from the VRM area).
My problem is the high VRM temperatures. More specifically: the difference between the GPU and the VDDC temperatures under furmark load. If the GPU temperature is low enough then VRM temperatures should be acceptable too. If the difference between those values is low during normal operation, then it should be low during any water temperature.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamesrt2004
For example: If the normal state on an active system is GPU 25 VRM 32 and I have a hot water then I should be (for example) 40 and ~47 and not 40 and ~120 (and not even ~80).
Can you see the problem?
My CPU temp is OK, my GPU temp is OK. How can other parts of the cooling system affect only my VRM temperatures to be so bad? Are you serious? The water in my cooling system can cool a Q6600 (1.45V), an x48 motherboard, an RV870 chip, but when the water is flowing over the my VGA's VRM area it would singing: "Ha-ha... I am too hot, I will skip to cooling FETs. Ha-ha." Or what? I can not understand.Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddy_EK
The problem shoul be the thermal conductivity between the heat sources in the VRM area and the copper block. This is proved by other facts like VDDC temperatures always changed (in a large scale) when I made some changes with the termal pads overe the VRM area. And my whole PCB is cool expect it is hot over the VRM area (it is cool over the GPU).
hey eddy, when we see the waterblocks for the HD5770 on your site. today is the 23rd
hello there!
Hey i have been waiting to leave a comment here.I wanted to see what eddy and gabe think...In fact i know plp that would buy this so there would be market...Well i got unlucky with gigabyte 4850 cf setup when a year after wanted to water it.No block out there compatible with it , that would water the ram also.Ram gets max 96 c.
In the future a plan to invest to 5870 so i was lookin at its layout and could help notice the similarities....
gigabyte r485oc-1gh
http://www.zockon.de/media/images/ga...e-DSCF4206.JPG
5870
http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/A...mages/pcb2.jpg
I know the mosfet part may not fit but if there is a block for the ram,gpu only?Where maybe u could just unscrew the mosfet part?
Is there any difference between EK-FC5850 and FC5870 blocks or it's just a name difference on them to match GPU you are using?
has anyone seen HEATKILLER® GPU-X³ 58x0 internals?
Latest addition. Backplate for 5850/5870 cards.
Backplates also support cooling of back RAMs when/if the will be added by manufacturers.
Awesome!!!!
Looks very good and also helps to prevent bending of the card :)
Any word on your price yet, Eddy?
Looks nice.
Eddy you rock! Those look awesome! :up:
What should VDDC temps look like using the EK5850 block? While running furmark, my VDDC temps are around 68-70C, while GPU temps were at 31C idle and 39C at 99% load.
Depends on the Vreg Voltage. 70°C are good, looking at the fact they can get over 100 with stock cooling...Quote:
Originally Posted by Silverhawk
My GPU temps are around 30C (39C full load with 1.35 volts; was curious about temps), and my VDDCs get around 40C. But my VDDCl gets to 60-70C full load. So, not sure how representative my temps are.
Did more testing today, and VDDC temps didn't break 50 :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddy_EK
Wow! That backplatez are awesome!
Eddy, IMO they don't look good.
Any possibility to make it the size of the WHOLE card? I know it's kinda pointless but it'll look MUCH better.
imo they look good....Quote:
Originally Posted by dingdong555
but need to go the whole length of the card.. would make it like WOWWWWWWW
Thats what dingdong was trying to say, it would look a whole lot better if it was the entire card length.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamesrt2004
I agree too. :)
i follow that, no doubt it looks great, but it would look even better covering the whole card :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamesrt2004
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddy_EK
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...egging-cat.jpg
I need one of these backplate ! :D
Eddy. I have just ordered nickel backplate from aquatuning. Can you show some installation pics?
Exactly the same as with stock backplate. Just use the screws that comes with the backplate.Quote:
Originally Posted by WaterFlex
Mmmm, I think I need to buy one now for my HD5870 :D. Gotta love EK :up:. Now I only wished there was a single NB/SB EK block for p6t deluxe... having different blocks for both just causes extra tubing and fittings :(
Anyone know what size Thermal pads to use with the EK 5870 block. I seemed to have misplaced mine. I am referring to thickness.
some roundup here in german. but pix is clear enough.
and nickel-plated version of aqua FC-block for thous who want'em.
You need 0,5mm for RAMs and 1mm for the rest chips.Quote:
Originally Posted by rxkevin
Eddy, is there any chance for universal 5850/5870 full cover construction?
To be honest, that's the only things that stops me from buying EK block.
Why?Quote:
Originally Posted by CthulpiSS
You planning to go from 5870 to 5850? ;)
We decided for separate block for 2 reasons:
1. the fitting position is in the same line so 5850 and 5870watercooled card can be connected together in the same loop, as the universal block would no allow.
2. the fact the 5870 cards have free space for additional chips at top left of the PCB. So block will be compatible also when these chips will be added.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=239493Quote:
Originally Posted by CthulpiSS
:D Crack me up Gabe.Quote:
Originally Posted by gabe
:rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by gabe
McZonk of pcgameshardware.de forum has just released next part of his 5870 blocks roundup:
http://extreme.pcgameshardware.de/wa...d-5870-oc.html
Komodo-HD5800 seems to be quite... NICE ;-)
EK block rocks :up:
bahahaha at gabe
great review, if only i could read it, good thing numbers are universal. and basically any FC block for a 5870 is probably going to be worth the price, except koolance which is a little too pricy.Quote:
Originally Posted by CthulpiSS
Manicdan, google translate is not too bad, you know.
which performs better the ek nickel or ek copper block for the 5870
it's nickelplated, meaning it only has a microscopic thin layer of nickel on the copper. There should be no noticable performance difference.
Circaflex
Both are great. Just choose the one which looks like better for you :)
i just read thru a few more pages of this thread and im wondering if my VDDC temps are out of line... during furmark with 1000/1200 at 1.3v vcore my VDDC still tags 100C... in normal games like Modern Warfare 2, iRacing and Dirt2 ive yet to see over 54C on the VDDC #2 IIRC all of my other temps are phenomenal and stay under 42*C
it was an epic PITA to get all of my puting done in my system when i added my EK-FC5850 but if im able to fiddle with some screws to adjust the pressure on the board then im down for it.
The Komodo is quite idiot proof as far as installation is concerned, though the VRM temp is only decent for my rig.
Phil
Please read the updated installation guide. It contains a tweak on page 6 under the chapter "advanced thermal utilization"Quote:
Originally Posted by Philwong
http://www.swiftnets.com/products/in...ultilangue.pdf
Geez, would love it give it a go but redoing my loop is out of the question for now. If only the instructions were there when the block was initially launched. I just wonder how will the EK performs without the thermal pads?Quote:
Originally Posted by gabe
Nevertheless, the GPU temp is pretty solid and the Komodo is so much easier to install!
Phil
Tweak late release: I agree with you; this tweak is the result of field testing with Evilclocker (Thanks EC!) http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...hlight=EpsilonQuote:
Originally Posted by Philwong
and this work also led to this: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...2&postcount=74
In retrospect, my regret is that the thermal pads we used in these applications have a sticky pad, which makes it a PITA to remove and clean up. This will obviously change in future productions.
Sounds like the Komodo is shaping up to be a great block. Despite all the issues, I'm still pretty satisfied with the Komodo in real world apps such as games. Dirt 2 and Modern Warfare 2 never got my GPU and VRM beyond 52 and 62 degree celcius, respectively. My rig is still very new and I'm expecting the temps to improve after the loop is fully bleed.Quote:
Originally Posted by gabe
For the record, it is hot and humid here in Singapore. Average room temp is around 30+ degrees, while my casing temp levels out at 45d.
Phil
is there anyone going to be making blocks for the coming 5870's, msi lighting or asus matrix or Eyefinity 6 Edition
Eyefinity 6 edition would be niceQuote:
Originally Posted by bill_d
So is there a definitive winner among the 5870 blocks yet?
from what ive gathered Badfastbusa, either the EK or the Swiftech block are the best. With the newly added tweak to the swiftech block Id probably say it is the best all around and easiest to install.
Thanks! What was the tweak?
-edit, and how do I know if I am getting one of the newer ones that have the tweak?
I guess originally with the volts up a little the vrms got pretty hot under load. Gabe (from swiftech) posted on here that he had been testing a new tweak to fix this.Quote:
Originally Posted by Badfastbusa
Basically you remove all the thermal pads on the block and clean the area. Then you apply TIM to the vrms and mount the block. Temps are much better from what has been posted.
Im not sure if they will be making new blocks without the pads already, i sent gabe a PM yesterday asking the same question and have yet to get a response. Either way though, you just need to remove the pads im not too sure they are going to offer a block without the pads.
Some temps with my 5870 + EK block, it's right after I started it up for the first time so temps might get a tad better once the thermalpaste's curing time is over.
http://forumbilder.se/thumbs/d20201090756Aa359.jpg
And some pics of it.
http://forumbilder.se/images/f302010121931a556.jpg
http://forumbilder.se/images/a302010122028d510.jpg
Gotta love these EK blocks. :D
Nice temps. And the block looks great too :D.
Now I am wondering if I should get the ST komodo or the EK... becasue if the vrm temps drop with thermal paste then the komodo is the hands down winner, it seems to run way cooler on the core temps.
Well i had the same debate and im ordering the ST Komodo as it seems to be easier to install and temps are similar if not better than EK block. I like that the ST has the standoffs built into the block, whereas with the EK you have to fiddle around with the standoffs and i have heard from a few people its a PITA to mount
Glad I won't be alone LOL
See last sentence here:http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...&postcount=476Quote:
Originally Posted by Circaflex
Well, with you on our side, it seems a win win situation... I am for sure going with the komodo now, which place to get one is the question now... :shrug:Quote:
Originally Posted by gabe
Again Gabe, any idea when they gonna be available in Europe?Quote:
Originally Posted by gabe
Does anyone know the gap between the vrm and waterblock for the EK-5870 block with standoffs? I am going to try shimming that area with some copper and using ceramique to improve the temps a little more. My choices are .4mm and .52mm shims.
Measure the thickness of the depression in the thermal pad. (it may have expanded after removing the heatsink so use thinner shim first) Old internal combustion engine trick for checking valve clearance when installing high compression pistons or HP cam but modeling clay is used for that.
I should have done this earlier. Before the .025" copper shims the vrm temps were around 70C with the stock thermal pads.
http://imgur.com/pOqfV.jpg
copper shim? any pic of what you exactly did?
I'm sure that would help others considering the same thing...
I bought a sheet of .025" thick copper from Ace Hardware. I cut out squares 25% bigger than the vrm chip with tin snips. Took a hammer and flattened each square. I then used ceramique on both sides of the shim and stuck them on the corresponding vrms and then installed the waterblock. It took literally 15 minutes from start to finish (screenshot).