sweeeeeet :D :up:
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sweeeeeet :D :up:
I'm about to smash this motherboard.....and buy another........unless someone wants to send me a sample. LOL
I swear it looks like battery corrosion on some of the points on the board. right by where the OC dial is, if you take you finger under the board you can turn it on and off by touching the pins. I think this is where my problem lies. It's also wanting to stat in green mode. now I have taken rubbing achole to this board HARD CORE/yet for some reason it's wanting to leave this thin layer of crap that I have never gotten before with cleaning with rubbing achole.
http://img.techpowerup.org/090516/IMG_0906.jpg
The board will not start. It goes code FF/D3/FF
ATM I'm taking a sowing needle to all these thin areas with no luck.....
That chip is the play house :)
The first two on the top turns on and off the oc dial
If you cross the 13th row on top it will power on the board lol
fun facts
Honeslty from the post code it sounds like you killed something in the ram section with condensation.
Curios what lights are lighting up as our board basically told us by the lights that we killed the IMC on the chip and something to do with ram on the board.....
Check your ram slots. The black slots especially. D3 Refers to them.Quote:
Originally Posted by DaMulta
Started putting the screws to this board......want to see how it holds up :D
http://valid.canardpc.com/cache/banner/568026.png
Hmmm a little more, see if shes got anymore left in here....this is kind of a cruddy chip btw.
http://valid.canardpc.com/cache/banner/568026.png
Well I got it to read code E5 for a bit....
I'm swapping ram out with different ram getting the same codes back to E3/FF I'm getting now.
all lights are on the board.Quote:
Originally Posted by chew*
It made me mads
http://img.techpowerup.org/090517/dish 006.jpg
lol
Bake it an oven afterwards to dry it out, who knows might get lucky.
How hot do you think?
Is it 350F for 15 mins?
The reason that I don't think it's dead ram is that I had it working yesterday. BUT one slot. So I started cleaning up the board more, and low and behold all the slots stopped working.
Nah that will melt solder, 150F should be fine for drying it out. I usually hit all my boards with a haridryer after going cold then toss them in for 5-10 mins, especially if we had a humd day and had condensation issues....Quote:
Originally Posted by DaMulta
Higher the number the more sensitive to voltage I have found it to be chew. From what I have seen at least.Quote:
Originally Posted by chew*
yea I was really thinking about the melting the solder part:up:Quote:
Originally Posted by chew*
Well it's about done, I think I'm going to wash it one more time on the top rack.
(normaly I would say let it set out and about for a week, but I don't want to wait.......)
I LMAO when I saw that.Quote:
Originally Posted by DaMulta
And to add to the general information on this board, I tried enabling ACC tonight on mine and it didn't enable the 4th core. ;( It just booted like normal with 3 cores. But so far I'm 100% stable 225 on the bus and 3.2Ghz with my 720 BE at stock voltage. ;)
DaMulta -
Do you use the dish washer and oven to clean the board for RMA, right?
I typically use the sink to wash off any LN2 left over before I RMA the board.
- Ton
Dude, I totally hope you get that board working again. That wouLD be the shiznet!
Never seen that before......LMAO
I broke the cover for the cpu lock down.(The damn silly putty DON"T USE THAT CRAP) ATM it gives me the FF code IF the 8pin or 4pin is not installed. It will also let me hold down the power button to shut it down.Quote:
Originally Posted by TiTON
Now if the 8pin or 4 pin is installed I get NO code read outs, and I can't hold down the power button to turn it off. ATM I have fans running over the VRM in that area(I think it's still damp there.) With luck it will power on.
One of my friends that is a RMA guy washes video cards in the dishwasher all the time and brings them back to life.
I had it working with 3 slots and I had a little silly putty left under one slot that was stopping it from working. When I pushed it up in there a little more trying to get it out all the slots stopped working. I only use the dishwasher to clean boards in a have to situation.
Right now I'm going to try and sell a 9800GTX with a Danger Den Full coverage block 3/8 with a black ice EX 120 rad and pump for maybe 150-160 shipped....then get me a asus board and try it out.
Okay, really dumb question, but I'm having trouble changing the voltages in the BIOS from Auto. Is there an option to enable voltage control?
Can I just confirm that the stock NB voltage is meant to be 1.2? As this board is giving it 1.1 @ auto with the current bios.
I believe default depends on the actual mobo.....iv'e see differences across the board.......Take care when using NB vid however. I have found it to overvolt by .3 volts on my board, confirmed Fluke DMM and readpoint reccomended by MSI.
Have you tried + and - keys for voltage?
I have yet to have an issue using eraser "silly putty" on a motherboad.....namely if you not using ram slots you tape over them and then go right over them with eraser.....
I'd be happy to take a pic of one of the boards I killed that was completely covered with eraser........looks like brandy new ( without the dishwasher ), however its not getting RMA'd because it did not fail under normal conditions.
I've tried ALL keys lol. It can't be this hard. All of the voltage options are showing "Auto" in and are grayed out. It's as if they're in a "Read Only" mode.Quote:
Originally Posted by chew*
Ah! I didn't try those keys. Doh...:brick:Quote:
Originally Posted by shadow_419
*Will try when I get home this evening. Thanks!*
[QUOTE=DaMulta;3794723]I broke the cover for the cpu lock down.(The damn silly putty DON"T USE THAT CRAP) ATM it gives me the FF code IF the 8pin or 4pin is not installed. It will also let me hold down the power button to shut it down.
Now if the 8pin or 4 pin is installed I get NO code read outs, and I can't hold down the power button to turn it off. ATM I have fans running over the VRM in that area(I think it's still damp there.) With luck it will power on.
[QUOTE]
Hey DaMulta - I am getting the same thing here.. Power on straigth to FF code.. power button doesn't work to shut it down. have to do it via PSU.
I noticed the second LED is off.. in that row of 5 or 6 LED by the CPU Fan. I haven't tried to get it to power back on yet, since I had no time over the weekend. If I figure it out, I will keep you posted. If not.. then time for a 4th MSI mobo :P
- Ton
You guys killing boards sheesh......mines been rock solid once I figured a few things out......
Any tips for it chew?
Use a dmm at the readpoints MSI reccomended.....a few voltages overvolt.
Take your time, every board I use I take babysteps with, get to know it really well then go to the next stage of cooling and repeat...Rome wasn't built in a day so to speak.
I've started from scratch 3 times now with the same set of ram and each time acchieved a higher clock, the more you get to know the board the easier it is the less buttons you have to push, voltage you have to give to make it do what you want. Large voltage jumps don't help with this board. the fine tuned increments are there for a reason. This board just requires a little more finesse.
I see alot of Impatient overclockers of late and those two words together do not mix.
If going cold be anal with insulation.....after I killed one board I take no chances now and literally prep a board for a good hour or more...., eraser, towels, armacell sheets, fans to dry up condesation lots of them and if you still get condensation pull the plug....todays not your day.
Took me a minute to figure that one out also. It's kinda like hiding something in plain site.Quote:
Originally Posted by FlawleZ
Question: I'm running my NB at 2200 atm on stock voltage. What might be a typical NB voltage for running at, say, around 2800. Or maybe, what's a good starting voltage to test and inch down.
And yet another question: I'm triple booting Vista 32/64 and Xp. When I run certain games, like bioshock and cod4 on vista 64, sometimes I get this loooong pause, like a crash is ready and waiting. But alas, it jets back to life. None of my system logs give any indication of problems. Is this an operating system issue?
On a side note, the 1.3 bios for the GD70 shows an awesome improvement for me as an average user. I'm running a 720 at 3.4 w/ voltage 1.375 and NB 2200, w/ OCZ2000 @7.7.7.24 totally rock solid stable 24/7 tastey!!! And now I don't have to hook up two mice to get my behemoth working at bootup. Oh, and my led is showing 28C atm. I like xtremesystems, you should too!:D Edit: AND I'm showing no vdroop in software!!!
Good, I'm glad I wasn't the only one. :yepp:Quote:
Originally Posted by DistortioniZm
I too am happy with mine. I haven't had much time to really crank the juice up but I'm at 3250 Mhz w/OCZ1066 @ 7-7-7-16 so far on my 720 BE on 100% stock voltages. Probably tomorrow night I'll have more time start adding vdd to see how this little guy is going to scale.
I'm assuming you memory is capable of more than 1066 so correct me if I'm wrong. :In the bios memory section there should be an option to change the ratio to 1/4. (I'm totally too lazy to reboot and check) Setting the rated voltage for the memory modules should allow you to achieve their respective rated performance. At 1066 you should be able to run it at 5.5.5.15 @ 1.8v. Please don't quote me on that :confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by FlawleZ
At any rate, at ddr3 7.7.7.24 and (those that are lucky, 6.6.6.24/21@1600mhz) seems to be the sweet spot for these AMD imcs. When you get time: KEEP pushin it!!! :D
What are you taking as stock voltages??
For instance:
I bought these rams:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820227310 and the stock volt is 1.9... So my first step was to set the dram volts at 1.9.
Then I changed the ratio:
http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/4171/005ggo.jpg
Then I started experimenting with the timings, which would be the first 4 settings in the advanced memory settings submenu. Albeit before, 7.7.7.24. ATM I'm booted at 6.6.6.24 and just might try 6.6.6.21 if I have a few more beers :D
Oh, absolutely. This is my memory:Quote:
Originally Posted by DistortioniZm
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820227293
My memory is at 1236 7-7-7-16 at default voltage currently. I'm sure with more relaxed timings and voltage, I'm sure 1666+ will be achievable.
I just didn't have the time that day to drive up and get eraser....I thought silly putty would be ok, and it is, but I had a splash and the liquid does not get soaked up into it.....it just because conductinve....Quote:
Originally Posted by chew*
I might get eraser and go for it, everyone I know is haveing awsome luck with it.....
I might go ahead and still do liquid nail poish or this stuff
http://img.techpowerup.org/071017/100_0954.jpg
THATR WORKS MORE THAN GREAT
You can take a frozen pop can and paint it(the liquid plastic) all over it and not see any water beeds fourm up......
I've always been, Frost king, black inulation on top, and di electrical grease all over. This time(first time ever for me)no grease/no nail poish. That silliy putty just made for a sweet 5mins ready to go job!....
(I have yet to try the baord yet......giving it just a little extra fan time...)
Right ON... Relaxing the timings might yield higher mhz, but IMO wouldn't generate any real world gains. So on to the next: Memory is running good and stable, now time to PUSH IT:DQuote:
Originally Posted by FlawleZ
Up that PCI-E voltage to help smooth out high NB settings:) I ran 1.4 on it.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820148147
Crucial 1GB 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1066 (PC3 8500) Desktop Memory Model CT12864BA1067 - Retail
Cas Latency: 7
Voltage: 1.5V
Heat Spreader: No
Parts: Lifetime limited
Labor: Lifetime limited
I found this 15usd a stick to be some ok ram! I have ran it at 8-8-8-24 at 1.7 1600Mhz
Didnt really try to oc that stick to death.....
WTF. I booted at 6.6.6.21 and my 3dmark score dropped to 14500, where before it was 15800. Wf ever. PI said all was good... I don't get it.
Running BOINC for at least 30min is now my new ultimate stable check test
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=224817
If there is something wrong your going to lock! Blue Screen something.
If you undo it back does your score come back?
http://www.tweakers.fr/download/MemSet41b2.zip
New memset
run windows memtest for about 4 hours, and see if it passes 500% or so.
http://hcidesign.com/memtest/MemTest.zip
ALSO are you killing everything in taskmanger the same everytime to make sure that your test are always the same?
I can't get the memtest cd ISO to work. I used the noob windows memtest though, but, of course that's gRey.Quote:
Originally Posted by DaMulta
I'll definitely continue cranking as I get some more time. Just curious, you said you're running a 720 BE also, but have you tried enabling ACC?Quote:
Originally Posted by DistortioniZm
Nope, studies show that the 4th core runs idle in 'most' applications. My cubase 3/ and /5 sees no affect, and games like bioshock and COD4/WAW/Fallout and the like see no real world improvement to me whatsoever. I like to ramp the NB because it seems to get less crackle in my pro audio setup. That's my noob two cents.Quote:
Originally Posted by FlawleZ
Oh I'm all for 3 cores clocked higher than an extra core with a significant sacrifice in OC. But I enabled my ACC just to see and it still booted just the same with just 3 cores. I was under the impression it would either boot with all 4 cores or have issues booting/running stable. It was as if I made no changes at all. I tried the auto setting and "all cores" setting.Quote:
Originally Posted by DistortioniZm
It seems you have been bitten by the XSTreeeem bug. With that kinda crazy talk we might see you freezing off your left hand digits!Quote:
Originally Posted by FlawleZ
Pft, yea right! Unfortunately I don't have the luxury of throwing down $500-600 on a new CPU/Mobo/RAM setup just to submerge under LN2/DICE only to wind up running it through the dishwasher and baking at 350F to ship right back. :eek: That's fun and all but I want mine to last a little longer. I don't want to revert back to my old s939 setup again. :down:Quote:
Originally Posted by DistortioniZm
Whoa!! Hey!!! No worries mate, just put on your black hat and throw caution to the uber! Chew and MSIMax should charge hourly:) What I mean is, take it slow, and don't be afraid to PU:banana::banana::banana::banana::DQuote:
Originally Posted by FlawleZ
Muchaz grassyass!! :DQuote:
Originally Posted by DaMulta
;) Don't worry, you'll be seeing more of me in this thread for sure. :yepp:Quote:
Originally Posted by DistortioniZm
mine did 1704 cas6 and 1800 cas7 the older ones of those are D9JNMQuote:
Originally Posted by DaMulta
Got my 955 upto 4Ghz, took over 1.5v :eek: Not to keen on pushing it any higher on air :cool: Would that be conisdered alot of volts for a 955?
Ok time for a break from overclocking guys!
Here's some news
http://www.msi.com/index.php?func=newsdesc&news_no=788
For a moment I thought the Teletubbies had invaded. :D
Winki? WTF? Board looks nice but who came up with that name? :slapass:
"Be there in a minute hun, playing with my Winki!":eek:
Yeah, name is definitely lame, yet quite an interesting idea. I'm a little leary of access to the Internet at the BIOS level as it would seem to me that would open a slough of holes that could be exploited to do a lot more damage than just corrupting your NTFS file system or hijacking your web browser.Quote:
Originally Posted by PoppaGeek
It's not at the bios level, it loads a small Linux seating on a USB flash drive bundled with the mobo.Quote:
Originally Posted by FlawleZ
From the description it sounds like the Asus Express Gate, I'm sure they feel left out now that MSI came up with the name winki...Quote:
Originally Posted by LowRun
MSI: "The winki chip is very sensitive to electrostatic discharge"
User: "I can't touch my winki?"
Ah, that makes much more sense.Quote:
Originally Posted by LowRun
wheres the new beta's?
has anyone removed the stock cooling on the board and replaced it with better?
Sitting in my inbox.... :DQuote:
Originally Posted by jonspd
jonspd: So what's your impression of the board so far?
I almost bought an Open Box from NewEgg last week but by the time I decided to go for it they were gone... :(
I'm still kind of up in the air, I really like MSI, but this Asus board has been so good to me that the M4A79-T is calling my name.
I know you OC similar to the way I do from back in the K9A2 days (Carefully... :p:).
I'd really like to hear your opinion bud! :up:
If you don't mind, some results would be nice too...
so what are we waiting on I never tried 1.37
Cant really post results on my 955 ATM but I will say the 1st one oced nicely but for some reason I think my 945 es doesn't do as well with ddr3 maybe a stronger ddr2 mem controller verse the 955. I tested waiting to install xp also been testing with win 7, just got a true for the board as I was using a 9700 hsf for a weel or so.Quote:
Originally Posted by bingo13
I pretty much cant run ddr3 1600 with my 945 and the 955 didn't have a problem with it. In comparison to my sb600 and 945 es the gd-70 and 955 is a really nice combo if you have the rest of the good stuff to go with it. Don't have a 4gb set yet either so only being able to play with 2 different sets of 1600 2x1gb one of them is d9's.
945 es around 3.6 max 955 retail did around 3.8 give or take but waiting on the right stuff to get here.
my plat still works great gonna house my 945 but I have a stuck vddim 2.2 and will only go up.....
Still think the msi didn't properly set up the pwm area as it is one of those that get's to hot IMHO similar to the k9a2 but not as bad nothing modding or adding fan's cant fix.
Anyone know anything about this 2.0 Bios release? Its for the Winki edition mobo.
http://www.msi.com/index.php?func=do...1&prod_no=1814
quick questions here as I've just got my board up and running.
-what are my voltage ranges to work with here using the stock cpu cooler with the AC on full blast?
-I see that when I press the minus key from auto voltages go down and the + voltages go up - is it safe to assume the default/auto voltage is the unlabeled one in between the nerest +/- values?
-CPU-NB and NB voltage - former is IMC voltage and latter is onboard chip? whats the range I should be looking at on CPU-NB?
sorry for all the noob questions, I know my intel voltages very well but these are puzzling me, a little nudge in the right direction is all I should need
P.S. I love this memory-Z and all the ram settings! so much fun ahead of me I can tell already :up:
also BTW chew I just caught something you said a lil while back - do NOT lap that cpu block - it is a bowed block and should never be lapped, what you need is mounting pressure and lots of it.
[QUOTE=SNiiPE_DoGG;3809385]also BTW chew I just caught something you said a lil while back - lap that cpu block!!! - it is a bowed block and should be lapped!!!!!!!QUOTE]
*fixed ;P
On a beautifully flat IHS such as AMD's have a lapped block should be a big benefit.
ok peoples Question
i have the 1.3b6 Bios should i get the latest one
or does anyone have any ideas on a stable one
that is great for overclocking
Thanks Roger
yah well the bracket is bending so that should be tight enough ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by SNiiPE_DoGG
I just had a bad paste application and mount, all is good now :up:
so I'm getting somewhere, this cpu OC is LinX stable.... ram timings are :banana::banana::banana::banana: tho >.< also this = ownage >>> http://service.futuremark.com/compare?3dmv=1095657
http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/1291/21098.png
Nice, ram is a tad tricky if you need help I will do my best but I don't have diablos :(.
I have a special bios for you once you get those cards on water as long as you don't mind feeding them a little juice and they area ref design ;)
wonderful, I wish it was still a hardmod on these things but alas the masses have software voltmod and HWbot points will get harder as time goes on I guess.Quote:
Originally Posted by chew*
I think I'm just gonna slowly pull in the timings but for now I need to learn the CPU stability stuff so I am gonna mess around with that
The 137 beta and official 1.3 release are the same BIOS. I actually like them better than the 1.3b6 for the most part. I have a 138 beta but it is just 137 with new AGESA code for the upcoming CPU releases. So no real performance differences, yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by XRogerX
What was your CPU VDD voltage set to in the BIOS here in your screenshot?Quote:
Originally Posted by SNiiPE_DoGG
Bingo have you tested quadfire for bugs? If not I will tackle that this week......I need it to work 100% :DQuote:
Originally Posted by bingo13
Waiting for the 13C7 bios
C = cold very very cold :p:
auto... what does that setting do?Quote:
Originally Posted by FlawleZ
should be 1.35 AFAIK stock I think...
yeah, but I raised vcore to 1.44 I think there, anywho its at stock now as it had some issue.... I need my watercooling or a good aircooler before I can really test this thing, the stock cooler sucks...
I might rip apart permafrost and steal one of the MCR 320's tonight...
MSI mislabeled their voltages in every bios release. CPU VDD is actually the core voltage, and the CPU voltage is actually an offset for minor bumps in voltage.Quote:
Originally Posted by SNiiPE_DoGG
well that explains my issues... LOL
Chew - which quadfire bugs are you talking about? I have played quad fires both ways with this mobo :)Quote:
Originally Posted by chew*
-Ton
:p:Quote:
Originally Posted by SNiiPE_DoGG
It's the same with the CPU NB and NB VDD, they too are backwards.
It was more of asking than anything......Not sure if HT clocking is an issue with 4 slots used......or if any other issues arise with 4 slots full as of yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by TiTON
Guess who has Animals in the mail??? :p: :up:
Those do nice on this board.....I found my sticks did well at 1.69 which is still within spec for warranty.
Definitely going to grab another set for my everyday rig when and if its ever up and running......
Hardcore benching though is high stakes so I'm going to have to jump on the elpida train for benching ram.
Still kicked my 2x1g high volt D9 GTR corsairs sticks ass with the animals though in 3d ;)
o rly? Nice to know that before I start clocking!Quote:
Originally Posted by FlawleZ
LOL, I just do not see a cold BIOS coming anytime soon but they may surprise us. I have not tested all four slots with anything over a 4870 yet, but two 4870x2s work well on the board. My favorite setup though is four 4770s, light loads, killer performance for the money but not anything that is going to win benchmarks. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by chew*
Chew - does the board have colb bug issues? I haven't seen or noticed any.. are we talking like LN2 -196c cold bugs.. are like LHe cold bugs?
PS - one of my MSI board is alive :) So going back to it for playing. I noticed MSI also have drive strenghts :)
- Ton
Nah Titon I haven't put it under cold yet but a 1 off bios tuned for cold would not hurt a bit and would feed the need for us guys with a few screws loose. ;)
As far as drives use the force ;)
Ahh.. well.. i will keep my fingers crossed for one of those cold bios editions :) Tonight going to put the processor on phase, so i can dial in the cards and vGPU, as well as a different set of ram. Will probably go simple water on the GPU to see any increase in performance before putting these bad boys on LN2. Hopefully by the time the LN2 for the GPU comes around, i woudl have figure out how to get a 6Ghz 3D06 run :)
I will keep everyone posted.
Ton
For kicks I used chew's settings a few pages back, booted right into vista x64 at 3.8GHz :) Instant BSOD when I started prime though :lol2: I was able to POST at 4GHz as well, that was too cool.
Currently running prime at stock speed but with NB and HT both at 2400. So far, so good. Not sure if I should play with the memory speed or not, I'm at 1333 7-7-7-18 1T. Just playing around right now.
My 955 has a VID of 1.35V. If I adjust CPU VDD voltage in the bios the VID changes in coretemp to whatever I set that at. Interesting.
Which RAM are you using? I'm running the OCZ in my sig and I had no problems last night setting them to 6-6-6-18 1T running 234 on the bus and at 3:8. CPUZ shows 624Mhz on the memory. Haven't touched the voltage yet on it so I'm confident there's good headroom left in these Reaper CL6 sticks. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by SparkyJJO
I wanted a set of OCZ reapers 1333, like 65 bucks from Newegg. Maybe that's what you got? They were OOS so I grabbed some G.Skill PI that were similar in specs and price. F3-10666CL7D-4GBPI 4GB 7-7-7-18 1.5-1.6V. I may play with the memory, but I get lost in the sea of timings and I'm afraid to touch them :lol2:
*edit* I tried 1.65V at DDR3-1600 with stock timings. No POST. So now I'm at 1.6V at stock speed with 6-6-6-18 1T running prime. I think that PhII prefers tighter timings over higher ram clocks, so I'll aim for the timings.
Forgive me if I missed it, but is there much benefit to playing with the bus speed or should I just leave that at 200?
The tighter timings are crucial to get the most out of your CPU OC for sure. For now since I'm still on the wimpy stock HSF, my goal is highest OC on least amount of voltage possible keeping temps under control. So far with just a small bump in voltage my 720 BE is consistently idling at ~4C over ambient room temperatures, and loading about ~8C over when under full load in SuperPi. Obviously that's just one core under load so I imagine it will get a bit warmer with all 3 going at it.Quote:
Originally Posted by SparkyJJO
As far as bus speed goes, my experience has always shown the most performance from a higher bus speed and smaller bumps in the multiplier rather than just cranking the multi up. Clearly you have more factors that affect stability, but increasing the bus speed has a noticeable positive impact on your overall bandwidth.
I've been messing around with the drive strengths, be it not that long, but didn't gain that much in terms of stability or overclockability.Quote:
Originally Posted by TiTON
Let me know how things go with your board :-)
Im getting my mobo in a day or two. Do any of you have the official 1.3 bios that is on the website ? Also any of you using MSI LIve Update Utility to update the bios ? Thanks.
just use a USB stick and the utility in the BIOS menu, its the easiest BIOS update system I've ever used.
So i put the bios file on my USB stick and than reset the computer and go to BIOS and to the M-flash USB stick utility ? Do i need to make it like fake 1.44 disk first or M-flash does it all by itself...? Tanks again.
PS: I see that some people have problems with USB keyboards, well i have Logitech G15. Will I have problems logging in the BIOS or I will have to go get a PS/2 keyboard ?
So far so good on toying around with this 720 BE + GD70 combo on air. Minor voltage bumps to get some SP1M runs at 3.5Ghz with better timings and temps were still good on the stock cooler.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...g?t=1243482377
Although, doing some 32M runs and other stability tests tonight proved things were a bit flaky for sure. The stability problems were a bit strange and it got me thinking, I'm still on the v1.0 BIOS.
SO, my question is, is it safe to assume the v1.3 is the recommended BIOS currently?
1.3 is awesome, 1.37 is a little better still ;)
You need to flash asap