aln688, did you have to mod the mount for that Noctua U6? or did you just replace the stock pushpins w/ screws?
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aln688, did you have to mod the mount for that Noctua U6? or did you just replace the stock pushpins w/ screws?
No modification required. Just take the U6 as-is, remove the white push-pins and use M3 x 10mm cheese-head screws. Be careful tightening them down, slowly turn the screws one at a time to make sure they are level, it's very easy to be quick and tighten them much too far. They only need a few turns to make sure the U6 won't move. Oh, and remember a nice thin layer of compound on the bottom of the U6 before you lower it in place.Quote:
Originally Posted by ChinStrap
Sorry, just got back in town. Thanks aln688 for all the info, it's much appreciated. I'll be running this board in a Lian Li V351 and was thinking of running a Corsair H50. I've been following a thread over at HardForum where guys have had luck fitting one inside the case. Obviously the H50 is not as sufficient as a flow blow watercooling build but I have no room for that in my case. I'm wanting to push the 920 to the typical 4.0, what do you think?Quote:
Originally Posted by aln688
Sounds good, although will your video card heat up everything in a case that small? Either way, 4.0 GHz on the 920 with this board is quite easy. Right now I'm playing with the different paths to 4.0 GHz, 20 x 200, 19 x 211, 21 x 190, etc. It's amazing the effect they have on stability.Quote:
Originally Posted by GameGuru
Nice build SystemViper. The black and red execution turned out great.
I assume your going to mount the rad externally. I have this same case for the kids PC, it's a great case! As for the H50? I think you would be better of with Swiftech H20. A much better performer and about the same size.Quote:
Originally Posted by GameGuru
Heres a few pics. sorry im not a very good photographer
Attachment 98011
Attachment 98012
Attachment 98013
Attachment 98014
Actually I've modded the case, I'll have to post pics later as I'm at work right now :rolleyes:. I cut out a good portion of the side panel and have replaced it with modders mesh so the video card exhausts strait out the side. I have a HD4870X2 in there right now and have no problems with heat :)Quote:
Originally Posted by aln688
I'm assuming that when you find the most stable overclock you'll post you're findings? ;)
I looked into the the H20 but it just wont fit the way I'd like it to, but your right this would be a way better setup. Here over at Hard Forum they have managed to fit the H50 in the front of the case and I was wanting to do the same thing. I just hope that the H50 cools the I7 920 adequately. If so I'm in great shape :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Taylor01
I looked into the the H20 but it just wont fit the way I'd like it to, but your right this would be a way better setup. Here over at Hard Forum they have managed to fit the H50 in the front of the case and I was wanting to do the same thing. I just hope that the H50 cools the I7 920 adequately. If so I'm in great shape :up:[/QUOTE]
I just feel your going to be disapointed with only one 120mm rad. on a 720 @4ghz. as you can see with my 360rad. I'm hitting 80c on my 730@ 4ghz. I just don't think the 120mm will be enough. :(
I'll make a separate post with my overclock settings, should anyone find them useful. I've quite literally spent days on stability testing, I'm at the point where I need to reduce the memory controller/DRAM voltages now - not that those make a reduction in heat on the CPU, but I still don't want them over the top when they don't need to be.Quote:
Originally Posted by GameGuru
I just got my RIIG back from RMA and i've noticed that it's slightly different than the old one (components placement on certain areas).
I've also noticed Rev 2.0 text on it. Does anyone know what are the differences between Rev 1.x and Rev 2.0 ?
Also, does anyone know if i'll have to re-activate Vista since this mobo is another revision? It's annoying because i have to call Microsoft for each activation for some reason :(
Why cant you activate online?:shrug:Quote:
Originally Posted by RejZoR
Don't know. The first time i activated my Vista (DSP version btw), i was using emulated IDE for SATA drives. Then i changed it to AHCI SATA and disabled crappy JMicron SATA controller. After that i had to re-activate Vista and couldn't activate it anymore online. I have to call Microsoft, tell them the authorization code and they activate it for me.
It's no biggie as i've done it few times but still. Otherwise i use PING and disk image to restore already activated system. But if hardware change, i have to do it again and make a new image for this new hardware.
Thats why i'm wondering if just Revision difefrence will require re-activation. But it'll still be the exact same model (RIIG that is).
That's Microsoft for you. Sucks when people like us change hardware quite often and then we get the dreaded "Your hardware has significantly changed and you must reactivate windows" bla bla bla. This happened to me all the time with XP. Thank God I'm using 7 now.Quote:
Originally Posted by RejZoR
When I get home tonight I'll look at my board and see what version mine is, it just got delivered yesterday :)
Is there any info online, where i could check the differences between Rev 1.0 and Rev 2.0 ?
I'm looking but don't see any. If I do I'll reply back. Maybe will have to send an email to Asus :cool:Quote:
Originally Posted by RejZoR
First noticeable difference is that it comes with factory flashed 0904 BIOS. So, it's certanly newer than my last one :) Works great again, i'll just have to call MS tommorow to activate this thing (as i suspected).
If it can cool my i950@3.8Ghz with HT on during 2 hours of prime and remaining sub 70°c it should be able to handle your i750 within nice temp limits... don't expect miracles ofcourse...Quote:
Originally Posted by GameGuru
Thanks Leeghoofd, basically it's either this or an air cooler so I'm assuming this would be the way to go, especially in a little microATX case that has limited height for an air cooler anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by Leeghoofd
There is not much to choose from really. Either you go with Scythe Big Shuriken, which is very basic but silent cooler. Very low profile. Then there is Thermalright AXP-140.
Also very low profile and high performance. And there is Corsair Hydro H50. Biggest downside of this one is availablility. Months after release and i still cannot buy it in my country. It's just not available.
Hey aln688, can you elaborate a little bit on how you mounted the Xigmatek Porter to the stock NB please? Is it as easy as just bolting it through the stock mounting holes?
How come there are so few BIOS updates for such "hardcore" mobo? With P5Q Deluxe i was used to get new BIOS updates almost monthly...
Hey RejZoR, did you ever figure out what the difference was with v2? I checked mine and it's v2 as well. I also used to have a P5Q Deluxe and I'll agree there were new bios's quite frequently.
Perhaps there a fewer issues that require bios fixes:shrug:
I'll post some pictures tonight, I re-mounted it due to changing the direction of my CPU heat-sink.Quote:
Originally Posted by GameGuru
Here we go, photographs showing the install of my Noctua U6. FYI I used medium strength (blue) thread locker, I noticed if an M3 screw is put in the holes in the stock heat-sink it wiggles. With this thread-locker, it secures it after curing and is still removable if I want. The compound is Noctua NT-H1, easy to apply, doesn't seperate or run and no curing time. I used hex M3 screws with a hand-bent hex small allen wrench to tighten it, as one of the screws is directly under the U6 and I couldn't tighten it if it were a phillips screw head.Quote:
Originally Posted by GameGuru
http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...s/IMG_2412.jpg
http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...s/IMG_2416.jpg
http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...s/IMG_2418.jpg
http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...s/IMG_2419.jpg
http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...s/IMG_2421.jpg
http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...s/IMG_2422.jpg
http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...s/IMG_2423.jpg
Man I love this site, you guys are awesome, thanks for the pics :up:
So I finally received all my parts (see sig) and have put my system together. I've installed Windows 7 64bit and now I start my overclocking adventure. Just a few questions if you guys don't mind. Firstly the board shipped with the 0809 bios and wondering if I should just go ahead and update to 0904 (may be a stupid question :rolleyes:)
My goal is 4.0 which is doable on the H50. I was hoping someone could help out with some starting options to get me going in the right direction such as vcore, qpi, vtt ect... also what options should be enabled or disabled such as HT, Turbo, LLC, etc...
Thanks in advance!
I would update to 0904, some people have the attitude if the board doesn't have a problem then don't update it ("If it's not broke, don't fix it"), while others update purely to have the latest BIOS and skip the experience of finding a problem yet undiscovered - I'm the latter.Quote:
Originally Posted by GameGuru
For overclocking, my system runs at 4.2 GHz on a Mega Shadow, very well actually. Here's some of my settings, although bear in mind with every CPU being different inside, settings cannot be applied from one system to another.
CPU Ratio: 21
Base Clock: 200
DRAM Frequency: 1603
UCLK Frequency: 3208
QPI Link Rate: 7218
CPU Differential Amplitude: 800 mV
CPU Voltage: 1.23750
QPI/DRAM Voltage: 1.35
DRAM Voltage: 1.65681
Hyper-Threading: Off
Turbo-Mode: Off
Load-Line Calibration (LLC): Enabled
I hope that helps you somewhat. When overclocking, I do this, set the QPI/DRAM Voltage to 1.35 and the RAM to the recommended voltage per the manufacturer (example, my Corsair modules state 1.65), then put the CPU Voltage to a value very low, such as 1.15. Then do a 5-minute test (Problem Size = 10000) in LinX, then a full memory test in LinX (Problem Size = 36585), then a 24-hour test in Prime95 Blend.
If any of the tests fail, keep bumping up the CPU Voltage a notch until its stable. The reason is that it's too difficult to work out why a test failed, either due to the CPU, QPI/DRAM or DRAM Voltages, so you eliminate two of the voltages by putting them to their highest safe values, then you work with the CPU Voltage and notch it up until your system is stable. The main reason is, only the CPU Voltage can affect the CPU temperature, the QPI/DRAM Voltage does not.
For my system, I left the QPI/DRAM Voltage at 1.35 and DRAM Voltage at 1.65 as that is what the board set when I chose XMP from the profiles in the BIOS, and those aren't unreasonable values considering I'm running at 4.2 GHz and I have 12GB's of 1600 Mhz CL7 RAM modules.
With the values above, my system is stable for 24 hours in Prime95 Blend and 20 passes in LinX using all 12GB's of memory, with no reboots, freezing or erroring in LinX or the Prime95 results.txt file.
That Porter & U6 mount on the northbridge are just awesome
I might just try it out on my M2F.......
Hoping it fits the same fusion block *do they?*
Your the man :up:, I just want to say thank you for your time. I was able to to reach 4.0gb (20 x 200) easily with using some of the settings you posted. Now I'm just going to fine tune everything and see how far I can push this baby. Under full load, Prime95 small fft's, my temps never went above 64. I'm using an H50 in a push/pull config with two Scythe GentleTyphoon's (1450rpm).Quote:
Originally Posted by aln688
Here's my settings so far for 4.2
CPU Ratio: 21
Base Clock: 200
CPU Voltage: 1.3025 in bios
QPI/DRAM Voltage: 1.35
DRAM Voltage: 1.65681
Hyper-Threading: Off
Turbo-Mode: Off
Load-Line Calibration (LLC): Enabled
One thing I'm noticing is that my vcore seems to be a little higher than most people posting, although I find my temps seem to be good, as I'm typing I've just passed 2hrs Prime small fft's and my temps have not gone above 70. What temps under load are reasonable? I'm wondering how far I can push this chip :)
Wow! Flashed to bios 0904 yesterday and tried to lower the vcore on my 920. Is am now down from ~1.43V on 0809 bios to 1.32v and testing on 0904! just great:)
I guess I stand corrected, looks like Cralle's, vcore is higher :p:Quote:
Originally Posted by GameGuru
Cralle, what are your temps like with the GTZ?
With a TFC 240 radiator with two fans running@1200rpm and around 20-21C ambient my temps are around 65-72 on each core running Intel burn test and 59-65 after an hour of Prime95
Of course, glad to help. We all want fast running, stable systems and I'm pleased to see your system is on its way there, if not already. I only use the Blend side of Prime95 when testing, it uses more of the RAM modules. Your temperatures are very good, in a room of 80 F, my load temperature is about 73 C.Quote:
Originally Posted by GameGuru
To be honest, try to ignore what people are posting in regards to Vcore, every CPU is different. You'll find that everyone posts a different Vcore. Not only is your system different to the system of others, but no two Core i7 920 CPUs are alike. I bought my 920 from Micro Center and got a really low-volt CPU, it works great. My previous 920 required a minimum of 1.28 to get 4.0 GHz, it's luck of the draw.Quote:
Originally Posted by GameGuru
If you need any more help, just let me know, or PM (Private Message) me.
aln688, again thanks for jumping in here and helping out, it's appreciated :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by aln688
Is that your temps on load with Blend? I guess I should have mentioned earlier that I did run everything you suggested in you're earlier post, LinX, Prime95 Blend etc... Then I ran a 4hr Small FFT's test just to see how hot the chip would get as small fft's tend to heat that baby up.
So random question here in regards to ram, I took your advice and grabbed 6gb of the low latency Corsair modules, same as yours, as you can see in my sig. So last night I was poking around in the "For Sale" section and someone had the exact same set for a really good price so I went ahead and picked them up. My only concern here is that since they weren't bought at the same time there maybe some compatibility issues :shrug: which doesn't really make sense to me but I figured what the hell I take my chances, 12gb sounds nice :).
I got a problem. when I start the computer it first just shows me blackscrren and the i turn it off and then it will boot up and it report "Overclocking Failed!. The OC is stable the to get into windows i have to go into BIOS and save my settings. Is there any way to fix this problem?
Overclock is not stable. I had the same problem when i was using i7 92 at 4GHz. I had to lower the clock and now it's ok.
It doesn't really matter how much volts you pump into CPU. It just won't boot normally.
Yes my temperatures are with Prime95 Blend, although temperatures in general can be ignored when trying to compare to another system, in my view anything under 80 degrees C under load is acceptable. I've saw people in the past with the same build as myself and wondered how on earth they get X degrees less, or I'm X degrees less than the next person, it's pot luck.Quote:
Originally Posted by GameGuru
I would just look at your own system and make common sense decisions to lower the temperatures, such as (1) good CPU heat-sink, (2) good compound that doesn't seperate or is too thin, (3) applying the compound correctly (in my case, spreading a blob with a credit card, I prefer that as I can apply it thinly and evenly over the CPU heat-spreader), (4) making sure your case has plenty of ventilation and finally, (5) achieve the lowest CPU Voltage (Vcore) value you can get for your overclock by setting the QPI/DRAM Voltage and DRAM Voltage to their highest, safe settings, then starting with the CPU Voltage low (i.e. 1.15) and working up notch at a time with bench testing.
For the RAM modules, I wouldn't worry about that. When I bought my kits, I bought a 6GB kit earlier in the year, then another 6GB mid-year from two different vendors. I can see how Corsair's marketing of their 12GB kit would concern potential customers, by stating the 12GB kit should be purchased instead of two 6GB kits to ensure compatibility, that's absolutely false. There's no technical reason two different 6GB kits, of the same make and model, would not work together. Feel confident in your decision, I did the same as you, yet here I am, all 12GB's working perfectly at 4.2 GHz, 100% stable.
Try putting your QPI/DRAM Voltage to 1.35 and your DRAM Voltage to the recommended setting as per your RAM modules. For example my Corsair XMS3 RAM modules recommend 1.65 volts, if you have those RAM modules, try setting that in your BIOS. Also try setting the Repost Video on S3 Resume option in the BIOS to No, I found this caused my system to fail to resume from sleep mode. Just some ideas for you.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cralle!
Here's my final system, running 4.2 GHz completely stable.
http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...s/IMG_2726.jpg
http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...s/IMG_2735.jpg
Guys, if you know any mods for this great mobo, please tell them to me and this thread.
What sort of mods are you talking about? I just got this board and it rocks. The only thing you should have to do is maybe add some cooling to the north bridge. I bought the Porter and bolted it directly to the stock one as mentioned earlier in this thread. I never removed anything, it's using the original paste and temps don't go above 50 priming with small ffts. I'm sitting at 4.2g and 12g of ram completely stable, see sig. Pretty simply really.Quote:
Originally Posted by Esajuppeli
Nice aln688, looks good :up:. Maybe I'll post some pics of mine when it's completely done. I'm waiting on my backplate mod and few other details then I'll come back here and post :). Thanks again for all your help in this thread.Quote:
Originally Posted by aln688
I already have a waterblock on NB. I meant any mods, that could improve overclockability, like vmods/pci-e mod etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by GameGuru
Thatīs a really nice modd of the NB . To bad i cant find a place that sell the Noctua U6 cooler so i ordered a Thermalright HR-05 IFX instead, hope that thing will work and lower my 60+ degrees NB :)
IIRC hr05 ifx w/ stock sink doesnt fit.
Why ? is the contact area to big to fit ontop of the stock sink ?Quote:
Originally Posted by ChinStrap
Why not grab the Xigmatek Porter? I've done it and it works great, plus there's info on it a few pages back.
I Just want to show my pc here it just got completed when i added my 5870. I will repost my pics when i got a camera, now i made them with my phone.
http://www.plaatjesupload.nl/bekijk/...054353-590.jpg
Stats:
Core i7 D0 (Running on 4,2Ghz Max 76c)
Rampage II Gene (NU-U6 on NB)
Corsair 1600Mhz
Asus HD5870 (Still running on stock :P)
WC setup:
HK 3.0 + Backplate
Swiftech 240 rad
Laing DDC-1 MCP350 (Modded)
Hope you like it. :)
That's a nice packed rig you have there! Any reason you decided to put the vid card in the bottom slot?
Thanks, and glad to help. It'd be great to see some pictures of your final PC build, I'm always interested to see different builds using this board.Quote:
Originally Posted by GameGuru
As someone else stated, the HR-05 IFX will not fit. The pipe coming out the base is too elongated before it bends upwards, it'll hit the side of the stock heat-sink, the part where the ROG logo is. You're only choice would be the SLI version of the HR-05 IFX, Xigmatek Porter or a copper chipset heat-sink which I don't have the name of, but should be available in Europe. I'll post back when I get the name of it.Quote:
Originally Posted by ante_ante
That looks great! When I built my system I had a 4870 X2 from a previous build, so I used that. Is the 5870 significantly faster? It's amazing how water cooling removes the "bulk" from inside the PC, no CPU heat-sink, fan, etc., the Noctua U6 looks lonely! Nice system.Quote:
Originally Posted by rickxbox
I'm sure rickxbox will tell you, but my guess would be to separate the heat from the video card from the heat on the U6, so there's an air gap in-between them. That's just speculation though.Quote:
Originally Posted by zoob
Well i cant realy tell you i had a 3780 before so the 5870 is a big preformence difference for me. Just check out benchmarks for it. :)
Why the bottom slot? It looks a lot nicer in that slot because you can see a lot more of the motherbord. And its covering up the wires at the bottom of the case. The card is running max 80c so its not a problem for the card. Maby when i start to OC the card i will place it in the higher slot for some lower temps.
Have you tested performance difference between the 2 slots ? I got a small hit with the REX II ( 1st and 3rd PCI-E slot) , haven't tested it on the Gene II
Quote:
Originally Posted by Leeghoofd
I will test it when i get back home. But i don't think there will be a difference.
Have a strange problem when iīm overclocking with Turbov. Booting from bios with 190x21 and have the same in Win. Starts to raise the Bclk up till 194 itīs all good , but as soon i hit 195blck my multi goes down to 20 instead of 21. Why is that ? Turbo is OFF in bios and C1E + HT is off.
I tried to find the European name of that copper NB heat-sink, but I can't locate it. The name is similar to "Otizt", something like that. Here is what the product looks like, as shown from the Newegg.com online vendor in the U.S.:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835199003
I wouldn't use TurboV to overclock, in fact I wouldn't use any software to overclock my system. My recommendation is to un-install all the Asus resource hogging software utilities and use the BIOS directly to overclock. What I did was set the settings in the BIOS, write down what I set on a notepad, then when I boot I have a record of settings. In fact I later used a laptop and maintained an MS Excel sheet.Quote:
Originally Posted by ante_ante
Is Intel SpeedStep turned off as well? EIST? You need to turn off C1E and SpeedStep. HT being on or off has nothing to do with the CPU Ratio going up or down. I also turned off Turbo mode and set the CPU Ratio to 21, for me that resulted in my system keeping it at 21 and it never changed.
New BIOS guys 1033, improved memory compatibility.
Speestep and Eist is disabled yes. But will try 195 directly from bios and see what happens. Update bios to i suppose with the new one :)Quote:
Originally Posted by aln688
Thanks for the update, I'll give the new BIOS a try.Quote:
Originally Posted by MassiveOverkill
I really love how this board is clocking.
These are 2 of my favourite results of my Dice session with Rampage II gene and I7 975. Memory couldnt stabalize over 2000, dont know why.. Elpida bug. will try newest bios next.
http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/2026/pi4.jpg
http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/2528/2006cf.jpg
Vivi isnīt bios 0904 the newest?:S
no look on the site, there is 1033 now or something :)
Be careful, I just tried to load it and got invalid boot block, so I backed off. Let me know if you guys get the same thing.
im overclocking with the 1033 now.
its givine me 400 less points in 3dmark 06 cpu test. so its not so nice.
It is giving me cooler temps and better stability, but im going back to the previous one 905 something
For me the new bios clocks the same but sometimes i have bootproblems. Maybe going back to 0904.
aah my error was not with 1033 bios, it was with the CPU circuit setting.
1033 and 0904 are bascially the same. but stick with 0904 for now i rate
is it possible to use turbo v EVO on r2 gene ?
Little hot chili peppers
yea it works but when i set any voltages it locks up. so no voltage tweaking only FSB etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by noobzed
I had no issues getting the rams over 2200Mhz, loosen the back to back Vivi...
I would avoid BIOS 1033, after updating to this BIOS revision my 4.2 GHz overclock isn't stable any more. My board also randomly displays LOCKED on the LCD Poster when I cold or warm boot. Attempting to downgrade to BIOS 0904 results in EZ Flash telling me I can't downgrade.
Well after several hours of marathon research, I've finally managed to ditch BIOS 1033; it's been a disaster. Since installing BIOS 1033 my system would blue-screen before reaching the Windows desktop, and it would randomly fail to boot displaying "LOCKED" on the LCD Poster. I found out Asus EZ Flash 2, Asus Update (all versions) and AFUDOS (all versions from the ASUS FTP site) will not allow a user to downgrade to an older BIOS version. Apparently you have to use AFUDOS236ES, the "engineering" version of AFUDOS.
Once you have the AFU236ES utility running at an MS-DOS or Windows 95/98/ME command prompt, run it like this - AFU236ES.EXE /i0904.ROM /pbnc /n - once completed, the 0904 will be restored. I thought I'd post this in-case anyone else is experiencing problems and wants to revert back to their previous BIOS. If you need the AFUDOS236ES utility, which is not available from Asus, perform a Google search for "afudos engineering 2.36es", I'm sure you'll find it. I didn't want to provide a direct link in this forum.
I'll just stick to 0904 then. It seems to work just fine.
and loose a massive gap in performance.. hell no! :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Leeghoofd
1750 cl 7-7-7-20 scores allot better Back to back 1 then 2200 cl8 back to back 8 /12
back 1 is not an option :p for 3D it doesn't matter much, but for pi32 it can be the only thing to run, it usually passes here all 3D benches at B2B 6, why not go dual channel then I leave B2B at 4
Im ocen at the moment I got 4300 stabel for 15 min but when im going to 4400 I keep getting the post error USBFINAL. So it had to do somehting with the NB I supose. I pushed the voltage up a bit but it dident help. Is this the limit of my bord of does someone had a idea?
Hey rickBox.
What cpu?
MAKE SURE that your MULTIPLIER is not an even number. like, 24 or 22 or 20. IT MUST BE UNEVEN. like 21 23 etc. Make sure that Turbo mode is off if you are on uneven multi, because if you are on 23, and enable turbo mode, that means multi will become 24 and be unstalbe.
you can also check that your uncore isnt too high. and if your cpu volts are too low. because 4400mhz is ALLOT for air. Specially if you are on 8 Cores
Its a 920 D0 its running on 21 mp. Turbo is ofc off its only making it unstable like you said. Whare can i check how fast my uncore is running? i cant find it in cpu-z.
And im not running on air but on water with a Vcore op 1.375 in load. Max temp is 70c
i've only ran dual channel :P.Quote:
Originally Posted by Leeghoofd
b2b has quite a big effect on 3D for me here. Not sure if its a Ramapge gene thing or in general. i get about 384k am3 in vista at 5.45ghz (vista) and then 379k with b2b at 8 with 2200 cl8. (vs 1750 cl7 b2b 0).
so i'd rather have the extra performance, 3dmark2005 especially likes a good system as a whole. But you do have a valid point, but i cant get it to score higher than my b2b 0 settings.
i've flogged this board anyway now, listen to this:
A friend of mine got 5.5ghz validated 975 on this board. Coldbug -90.
Then he put the CPU in a RE II. and got 5.8ghz validated -140 Coldbug. So the rampage ii gene is limiting the CPU.
This is my cpu in the rampage ii gene, imagine it in ANY other board :P.
-73c LN2
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=840158
http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/9084/wowbm.jpg
My uncore speed is running on 3200 dubble the mem speed so cant be lower. So i think the Vcore is the limmit factor. But im not going higher because its a 24/7 oc.
You can't expect the same performance out of a board that was designed for micro ATX cases Vivi...
Clock for clock it's on par with it's bigger brother and it's far more stable and easier to set up for 24/7 use (at least between the two samples I had here)... but for the enthousiast clockers it's better to go RE II ( better for SLI) or Classified... I hope the new RE III or whatever it's gonna be called gives us at least 230Bclock out of the box
true leeg. Im always hoping for more :P. and its just a little mATX.
yea.. lets hope asus' new board rocks blck
Any ETA on these new boards?
Anyone having problems with SB XF-i to install on Windows 7 x64? I tried many times and I keep getting error message. I also installed SoundMax ADI with the same message.. I used the current drivers on Asus site from this board. Is there another way around this or a fix?
Thanks
No problems here...
Already installed them 5 times, and not one time it got srewed up.
You mean the Asus supplied X-Fi card that comes with the RIIE board? I don't use it as it's a "fake" X-Fi sound card, it's software-based. I bought an XtremeGamer X-Fi card and used that and it works fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lu(ky
Anyone tried to flash Rampage II Extreme BIOS on this? If anyone has "spare" board, try :D. I got this idea, when saw the Everest reporting my motherboard as Rampage II GENE/Extreme. I just don't want to test it on my only board.
What could you win if you flash it to a Extreme bios? Its almost the same bios as fas as i know?
There are differences in number of expansion slots so i wouldn't really recommend it. Base is the same but overall it's different.
I don't know anyone who would have a "spare" board lying around, let alone risk stopping it from working IF a BIOS flash tool would allow this. My question would be though, is why? What's the point? It's not as if there is a big difference between the Extreme and Gene boards, I could see the point if one board was at the opposite end of the spectrum from the other, but they aren't. Personally, I think that is a pointless excercise.Quote:
Originally Posted by Esajuppeli
100% agree..Also, I think the bios on the Gene has the same options as the Rampage, so I dont see the point..Quote:
Originally Posted by aln688
Anyone else getting cold boot issues? Problem with latest bios and previous bios as well..
Yes i have too:( but they are pretty random.
What type of cold boot issues? On occasion if I switch on the PC in the morning I'll get LOCKED on the LCD Poster and my system won't boot; switching off and on the PSU switch usually "cures" it. As for BIOS's, 1033 lowers my overclocking ability a lot and my system is unstable, I'm running with 0904 which seems fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by buddatech
My problem is that sometimes the screen is just dark and i have to turn the pc off and then on again and go into bios and save my settings
Same here. If you look at the LCD Poster I'm sure it'll state "LOCKED" while you are "enjoying" that black screen. It's random, it doesn't do this all the time. I'm hoping ASUS will release a BIOS update to fix this, one that is reliable and doesn't ruin my stable overclock.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cralle!
Any one has a problem with the vcore reported by CPUID on this board? I need 1.443v for 4.2G (this is a C0 stepping) but CPUID is reporting 1.456v and Asus Probe 1.43v :confused:
Something's wrong here. Even while inside the BIOS the vcore value displayed is jumping around and below the setting I set.
I just bought this board while I RMA my P6t Deluxe (USB problem). Maybe I am missing a setting somewhere???
Try enabling Load Line Calibration in the BIOS, on my system that setting stops the voltage from varying too much from what I set it to.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hannibal Lecter
I did enable it.Quote:
Originally Posted by aln688
Does any one know where on the motherboard I can measure the core voltage with a multimeter?
Once in a while I will turn on PC and no post just black screen pressing the reset button will fix this and pc will boot normally. My oc is rock solid, but then again this only happens when I'm oc'ing no matter what the oc is 3.8/4.0/4.2 I've even went as far as really cranking up some of the voltages and trying 3 sets of different RAM..Quote:
Originally Posted by aln688