Thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by jason4207
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Thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by jason4207
ok idk what i can do my volts for the core is 1.35, and i try to raise it and i locks up and restarts and if i set my core above 828 it will lock up in a game like crysis and the screen will shake of the image and stays like that and usually i have to restart, i dont think its my temps they never go about 70C and i know its not the power supply or cpu or motherboard all brand new cept this card and does the same thing on my old system
You need to keep temps lower to clock well. 70c is too high. If I run my fan at 100% I can do 850 at 1.35v idle (~1.4v load) but using the stock fan profile I am limited to 800 @ 1.25v idle (~1.29v load).
Got a friends' card here doing 918MHz AquaMark 3 with the stock cooler ( 100% fan cycle duty ) [ maybe it can clock even higher, I'm not done with it yet :p: ]
Can't wait to put this one on LN2 :D
Where did you say you lived again ? :confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by BenchZowner
I'll be picking up my new GTS on the weekend. Any brands that are known to have more samsung then others ? Cheers
This one's eVGA ( standard one, not pre-overclocked edition )
But I think that it's using Qimonda GDDR3 not Samsung ( I'll remove the heatsink tomorrow to make sure ).
BenchZowner,
At what vGPU was that 918MHz AM3 done? Tried how high the shaders go by themselves? Anyways, that's a golden card.
:)
Clocks are:
918MHz GPU Core
2052MHz SPs
999MHz RAM ( Didn't test the ram yet, so I'm using a "safe" freq )
Vgpu @ 1.468V
P.S. Shader testing ( at lower voltage though ) had the shaders bench AQ3 at 2268MHz [ with the core @ 828MHz if I recall correctly ]
1.468V on AIR :confused:
Idle or Load voltage?
Make it on...stock cooler :DQuote:
Originally Posted by cole2109
Load.Quote:
Originally Posted by cole2109
lol are you kidding me? btw, you have to go to the services section and not here.
hey all, im gonna try to do this mod tommorow on my brand new bfg 8800gts (g92).
so; are these the trimmers i need??
500 ohm
http://tinyurl.com/2dnujo
1k ohm (for Vmem i suppose?)
http://tinyurl.com/23pm6l
all products are from jameco
ericab,
500Ω is perfect for the vGPU mod but that 1kΩ is useless for vMEM, if you'd use that for vMEM your mem chips would die the instant you turn your computer on after soldering the VR. Stick with a VR rated to 20-50kΩ.
once i have the mod completed; before i turn on the power to the computer; what position should the trimmers knob be in? should i turn it all the way to the left ? to the right ? middle ?
Measure the resistance before you solder them, you must set them to max resistance.
Make sure to solder to the right outer leg, once you set max resistance between the middle and one of the outer legs, resistance between the middle and the other outer leg will be 0 ohm and your card will be fried.
It's best to cut one of the outer legs of to avoid mistakes.
I just gathered all the necessary resistors to do this mod, but I had the hardest time finding a 50k variable resistor for the RAM, and instead had to settle with a 100k. Is that ok, or is it gonna screw with the voltages too much? Thanks.
well...
i did it, i took the plunge... with terrible results.
well, maybe not that bad, seeing that my card still works, but it simply would NOT work with all the connections made...
i would power on the computer, and my monitors wouldnt turn on.
also, with the voltage testing spot, i got no reading whatsoever. (see attached pics)
ive since unsoldered them, and am using the card right now...(seems to work just fine still)
i have no clue what went wrong, can someone help me? :confused:
i took some pictures of it before i unsoldered the connections...
(yes; i know my soldering, wire organization, and pictures blow :down: :down: :down: )
images:
variable resistor used:
http://img262.imageshack.us/img262/6...1266zh9.th.jpg
voltage test point:
http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/8...1261sh8.th.jpg
bad angle:
http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/9...1262zb4.th.jpg
resistor w/connections:
http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/1...1263mp2.th.jpg
connections to the on/off switch:
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/3...1264qd5.th.jpg
another on/off switch pic:
http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/9...1265lf8.th.jpg
:shrug:
First of all, your vGPU measuring point is on the wrong side of the capacitor - ground that is. Secondly, your VR is a single turn, always use a multiturn resistor for vmodding.
What comes to the actual issue...
Your vMEM measurement point looks shorted.
Quote:
Originally Posted by largon
:eek:
ohhhhhh... ok, i wasn't thinking about what side of the cap needs to be soldered to.. :ROTF:
ok, so, as for the VR; i had one hell of a time finding a 500ohm multi turn...
i purchased an alternate one just in case luckily.
will this one:
http://img397.imageshack.us/img397/9...1267ek9.th.jpg
work ?
as for the vmem being shorted; why do you say so?
aside from all of that, did everything look like it should be working ?
*EDIT*
1 last thing..
when it comes to this picture:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...0GTS-vMods.jpg
where is says "vGPU = 1K VR" and has a red arrow pointing to the little dot... how CRITICAL is it the solder is perfectly on that one spot? i only ask because it is SO SMALL its damn near impossible for me to get it done well. is there an alternate way to get a wire coming from there ? theres simply no working room...
*EDIT2*
how much heat from my soldering gun can these capacitors take ? it seems hard to get the solder to stick to them without holding the soldering gun on them for a few seconds while the solder melts.
Try one of these VR's.
http://www.alliedelec.com/Catalog/In...513+4294912030
but will this work ?Quote:
Originally Posted by jason4207
http://img397.imageshack.us/img397/9...1267ek9.th.jpg
*EDIT*
shi*, it looks like you were right. one of those tiny capacitors just fell off.
the farthest left capacitor in the read vGPU...
now what the hell do i do ? (the cards still working... )
The fallen cap isn't "needed" as there's a multitude of the same caps parallel to it. It wouldn't hurt to solder it back in though.
Caps are "always" connected to one pole to a ground and the other to live voltage. Your measuring point was on the ground pole.Quote:
ohhhhhh... ok, i wasn't thinking about what side of the cap needs to be soldered to..
If it's a multiturn and rated to 500Ω (as it appears) - it's good. Though, the metallic casing is a bit prolematic - you'd need to insulate the whole thing so that it doesn't short things. Those linked by jason4207 would be perfect.Quote:
It looks like the measuring-wire with it's blob of solder connects both ends of the capacitor.Quote:
as for the vmem being shorted; why do you say so?
There's only 4 places you can solder:Quote:
1 last thing..
when it comes to this picture:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...0GTS-vMods.jpg
where is says "vGPU = 1K VR" and has a red arrow pointing to the little dot... how CRITICAL is it the solder is perfectly on that one spot? i only ask because it is SO SMALL its damn near impossible for me to get it done well. is there an alternate way to get a wire coming from there ? theres simply no working room...
http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/3...vmemmodgx6.jpg (see "optional soldering points")
SMDs are sensitive but you should be able solder on them as long as the heating only takes max ~5 seconds. Btw, there might be a sort of lacquer on some components, you might want to scrape the place you're going to solder with a sharp blade before poking it with the iron.Quote:
how much heat from my soldering gun can these capacitors take ? it seems hard to get the solder to stick to them without holding the soldering gun on them for a few seconds while the solder melts.
thanks largon;
hopefully i will have better luck with my next card.
since my last post ive RMA'ed it. since i unsolder ed everything and the cap fell off, my temperatures at idle were ridiculous. (around the 75C mark :eek: ), and on load you can only imagine. sigh.
A missing cap could not possibly cause such a temp anomaly. No doubt about it.
Anyone here with a vmodded GTS or better two on a 790i board? I have some strange things going on here..
I'm 100% sure that both GTS are set to 1.333V idle before i put them on to the XFX board(tested on P35 and AMD 790FX), but now i measure just 1.118V in idle on both cards.. When i disable the mods then i measure just 0.996V in idle, thats less then the default specification for the GTS. :confused:
Hope someone can help me here!
Edit: Problem was a empty battery on my one DMM..
890+ my 8800 with stock cooler and 1.35Vgpu with 3-4C ambient temps...Quote:
Originally Posted by BenchZowner
unfortunately its dead now..:(
Not bad.Actually very good for "low" Vgpu.Quote:
Originally Posted by giorgos th.
Too bad it died :(
My friends' card does 918MHz AQ3/3Dm2001SE with lots of voltage ( 1.468V load :D ) with the stock cooler @ ~68F ( 20C )
With the help of my A/C and LN2 "amb. air feed" it did 975MHz AQ3 :D... at even higher Vgpu ( 1.52V load ) :D
I'm surprised it still works fine :D
This one is definitely a keeper ( yeah Nick, you won't be seeing your VGA anytime soon :p: ) and a Tek9.0 LN2 card for sure :yepp:
Now I need to find a decent QX9650 :(
Well this is my first post here at Xtreme Systems and I’m happy to say this place is awesome!!! I’m basically a complete n00b at all this overclocking and crazy benchmark stuff but very familiar with computers in general. Work as a Unix / Windows Engineer so I’m usually dealing with large Sun SPARC or HP x86 Servers all day. Last personal computer I built was a Dual PII-400 with an Asus P2B and a 4MB Diamond Viper, probably cost triple what this new system cost me *lol*
Anyhow THANKS to everyone as I’ve just been on here reading what to do and buy, trying to familiarize myself with all this new technology and wild benchmarks. I was pretty dang happy when I knocked off some upper 19000’s in 3D06 with a single Asus 8800GTS on a clean XP64 install, no tweaks or MIP junk. May be better with 1 monitor but not sure, running 2x24" @ 1680x1050. Just need to clean all my settings up and get some of the voltage down a little:
Maximus Extreme
Patriot DDR3-1866
QX9650 (Lapped – Dropped 6-7c under LOAD!)
DD TDX
DD IONE
DD D5 Pump
Thermochill 120.3
Silverstone TJ07 w/DA1200
Asus 8800GTS (vMod Memory 2.24v & GPU 1.48v)
(Thanks for the Instructions & Pics guys!!!)
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y20...Bike/19883.jpg
I have to say that is one hell of a 1st post!
Good work man, and :welcome: to the forum!
:up:
Ok... I have had this card for long enough, its time to volt mod. I looked through parts of this thread, but not all. Im sure this was covered but I cant seem to find the info...
What is the max voltage on air for the GPU and Memory, stock cooling with AS5 on the core. I know temps make a difference, but I just wanted to see what the ballpark was for voltage on factory air. Please remember, I want to keep this card for a while (at least a year).
Thanks for your help!
I would need these Pots:
500Ohm Trimmer for GPU
50k Trimmer for Memory
And then shred a molex for easier voltage readings... correct?
Just about to purchase new Cards. I do plan on Volt Modding. In your guys opinion, should I get a GTS or GT for max performance.. Also, between BFG, EVGA, ect... which brand and model seems to be generally better for OC'ing and Modding. Core will be water cooled, ram and mosfets will have sinks on them.
What I am looking at for warranties. Before, I do any permanent work I always do a reversible version until things are just right.
EVGA 512-P3-N841-A3
EVGA 512-P3-N841-AR
BFG Tech BFGE88512GTSE
Any other models or suggestions.
I have just about 520$ for Video cards but I want to just get 1 for now. I am still waiting on my 680i RMA. Until then 3700 AMD can only use so much power.
Or should I just say screw it and get a GX2? Not sure, how I would water cool it atm though, because my blocks are not designed for that kinda card.
yeah im not one to kill my cards eitherQuote:
Originally Posted by jas420221
1.29volts stock air with as5 but low room temps 40f or so
http://aycu34.webshots.com/image/417...9678700_rs.jpg
id say your ok single card up to 1.30 on stock air and paste
score aint good but f it.
Excellent thanks.. Do I have the right pots listed to order (see edit).
Thanks again!
yes they will work just fine
BTW i have not done the memory mod i have quimoda brand so i did not bother
I havent tested the max on my memory (or seen them naked yet). Im at 1026 with zero problems so far. My core wont go past 810 stock. Shaders are at 1905 so far.
No opinions or preferences? Post #431
The EVGA A3 looks like the best deal, plus I want Crysis. I have not touched it since beta.
You probably should have started your own thread instead of posting a sort of 'off topic' question in a huge thread.....I say just get the GTS. The x2 is out of your stated budget anyway. Always get the best you can afford.
If 1026 is your max you probably have Qimonda RAM, and would benefit more from the vmem buck mod using a 20k VR.Quote:
Originally Posted by jas420221
It'd probably be a good idea to check before you order...or just order both.
I havent tested my max memory... Didnt the other guy (Cowie) have Qimonda ram and hit well over 1100Mhz?Quote:
Originally Posted by jason4207
vmem buck mod? I didnt come across that in my sparse reading of this thread... link?
its(1100 )probly right where yours will run volt mod or not with either brand,
ok i have samsung memory and i only get it up to 1080 would pencil mod work for the memory i have a 1k on the vgpu i do have another 1k, 10k, and 100k but no 50 k would one of them work
In my experience the Qimonda RAM on the GTS will do somewhere around 1050 (1062 for me) w/o any volt mod. With the vmem buck mod and a little less voltage (1.96v worked best for me) the RAM will do a little over 1100 (1107 for me).Quote:
Originally Posted by jas420221
vmem buck mod (50k VR to points shown...this lowers vmem):
http://img340.imageshack.us/img340/7...embuck2om1.jpg
I haven't had experience w/Samsung RAM, but from what I've read (iirc) it tends to go over 1100 w/ stock voltage and over 1200 w/ a volt mod for more voltage.
100k should work, but you won't have as fine control over the voltage. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by andrew2004gto
hey thaks for the help, yea thats what i was thinking it will be more touchy, i hope i can get to 1200 it would be nice
Well I've GPU vmodded my GTS, and increasing the VGPU up to 1.382V I'm able to do 880 core, 2200 shader and 1100 memory. Now stock voltage using the 169.28 driver I was able to reach 800 core, 1950 shader and 1050 memory without any problems and running 24/7. But last night, and again this morning when I tried running 800 core, 1900 shader and 1050 memory I kept getting lock-ups in fire fly 3dmark06. This was again with the stock voltage but using a 174.XX driver. Could this be due to the driver, or maybe it's the card starting to fail. Normal stock clocks no problems. And I don't even get artifacts in ATItool running these clocks for 30minutes artifact testing.
There's an easier soldering point for the reverse vMEM mod.
Anyone got a better place than Allied to ship these from? I do not like that fact that the shipping charges are "pending"...or can someone tell me Im not going to get ripped off???
MouserQuote:
Originally Posted by jas420221
Excellent. Ordering.
yeap...1175mhz with stock Vmem when it was alive..Quote:
Originally Posted by jason4207
How did it die?Quote:
Originally Posted by giorgos th.
the reasons are unknown.....about 3-4 weeks after benching with her on an SS,it simply wont work..
I put on a accelero s1 with different mem cooling and cooling for all the componets it was hiting about 72C now it wont go pass 52C, my overclock went to 828/2106/1080 to 865/2215/1250 i like to add i just add the vmem mod
You can't really get any higher of an OC w/ better cooling over stock if you don't do any mods, but if you do decide to volt-mod, the extra cooling capacity makes a world of difference!
@jason4207
I disagree, Depending of the speed of the GPU cooler, the card achieves stability at different clocks. Mine card when the cooler is set to 40% is starts showing artifacts after 20mins @core: 760, shader: 1890, video RAM: 1044Mhz. At 70% it is stable for hours @core:800, shader 1944, video RAM: 1044MHz.
I guess I should have qualified.Quote:
Originally Posted by gOJDO
I always ran my stock cooler at 100% when pushing the card hard. The stock cooler @ 100% vs. any aftermarket air-cooling solution will have the same OC results w/o any volt mods. There is no real reason to go throw a bunch of cash on aftermarket air-cooling on these cards if you are just trying for higher clocks.
I was able to run the fan near 70% w/o it being noticeable above the fans in the rest of my rig, so 40% fan really has no relevance for me. In games I would usually run at about 70%...a little higher for Crysis, and my max OC always held...no crashes.
Now, if you just want your card to run cooler or look different that is one thing, but don't expect any higher OC results.
Once you volt-mod, however, extra cooling makes a huge difference!
heres a stock cooler run with low ambient temps 1.39 LOAD
http://aycu21.webshots.com/image/485...5660302_rs.jpg
That's one really nice piece of hardware you got there cowie. 936 core and 2322 shader with only 1.39 VGPU under load. Mine can't even hit 900 with 1.4v idle unless I chill the water. But then again I'm sitting with 33C room temps which doesn't help.
Seems like the latest GTS's clock better then the older ones.... not just memory, I mean core as well..
yeah this is a good one it only takes 1.29 to get to 900 at 20_25 idle c no more than 43load bench stable.
i dont add volts till i have the temps under control,theres no use to add volts if you dont.
at 33c room temps they just take too many volts to get where you wanna go without running into temp problems because of volts.
I'm on stock Vcore (1.15V) hitting 836 Mhz with stock fan @ 50% with a ambient temp off 19°C...
Shaders pops up to ~2200...
Like I said, without vmods, 100% stock card :cool: .
Prodigys,
That's some golden chippery you got there...
Q6600 that does 4.185GHz @ <1.4v under water, and then that G92GTS.
:eek:
could be the first 1GHz core card with watercooling with reasonable ambients :up:
I know, I'm selling it right now on a dutch forum, highest bid so far is 240€ (375$). Looks like I'm lucky with my GTS and Q6600 :D .Quote:
Originally Posted by largon
If I could get a nice WC block for my card I would try it.Quote:
Originally Posted by dinos22
even a simple one like Swiftech MCW60 does a very nice job...
these cards are cold already..
hey guys I'm about to do my mods later today, just got the pots in this morning
I know this is a silly question but what do you recommend using to hold down the pots?
I use double-sided sticky tape...the thick white stuff.
Dumbest vmod question ever.... Which of the 3 pieces of metal coming out of the pots are , -, +, and the 3rd????
There is no polarity w/ resistors.
You'll always want to use the middle lead b/c that is the wiper, and gives you the variance. If you just use the outside 2 leads you'll have a fixed value resistor.
Which of the 2 outside leads you choose will depend on which way you want to turn the pot to decrease resistance/increase voltage. I set mine up so that a clockwise motion results in reduced resistance/higher voltage. Use your DMM. Always set the VR to max resistance before installing it, and it's a good idea to cut the unused lead off, so you don't get confused.
good advice, thanks bro :)Quote:
Originally Posted by jason4207
I might have some time to get this done tomorrow, I'm figuring no more than a half hour for the soldering right? (btw I'm adding a switch as well)
the majority of the time is spent tweaking the voltages right?
Well I spend a good bit of time getting everything looking good, and I like to try to bend the wires such that there is no 'spring' left in them. If the wire is trying to bend away from the solder point then eventually it might break free. I like the spring force to be directed into the solder point.
Plus, if you've never done this before you'll want to take extra care to do it right. Plan to have several hours free.
thanks again man ;)
I was planning on the few hours anyway just to be sure
and yeah I really want to make this nice and clean for resale value and my own preference :)
also any recommendations on where to get that double sided tape? hardware store?
Hardware store probably has it. Iirc I got mine at Radio Shack.Quote:
Originally Posted by nflesher87
You might want to consider doing this instead of using a switch (click for full size):
http://img376.imageshack.us/img376/2...0013lj9.th.jpg
http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/1...0015qb1.th.jpg
Those are 3-pin fan headers, and I think it looks a lot neater. Just unplug the VR, and you're back at stock :cool:
I will be getting into it this weekend and cant wait. I need to get some double sided tape though to 'strap' these things down.
I want to see 900 core w/1.3v.
Also, I have no idea what type of memory I have (label off the chips :() so I may not vmod the memory.
This is how I plan to do it..
1. Voltage reading molex connector.
2. setup pots at max resistence and for the direction I want to turn it...
3. solder pot
4. Have fun!
how do you guys get the wires to solder on so cleanly?
is the best way to drip solder onto the end of the cables, then attach it to the solder point by heating up the wire ?
i cant seem to solder to these tiny little pieces...
Thats how I planned on doing it!! I read that from a soldering website somewhere...Quote:
Originally Posted by ericab
You never want to drip solder. It'll just bead up if you do that. For the solder to work all metal that is to have solder applied also has to heat up to a good temp. First, I put a little dab of solder on my iron, and put it on the location to be soldered. On most points it only takes a couple seconds for it to bond good. On some GND points you may have to hold it a lot longer before the solder will melt. Then, I do the same for the tip of the wire. Finally, I get my wire into place, and solder the wire to the point.
You'll want to keep your soldering iron tip clean & tinned. I use this little round container (Solder Tip Cleaner) I got from Radio Shack to help keep the tip clean & tinned, but I also use a wet sponge to wipe off all the residue right before I get to work.
Having a 'helping hands" (a small device w/ alligator clips to hold your work) is invaluable for a lot of solder work b/c it's hard to hold everything, and balance the iron in your hand.
You'll also want to work under a magnifying glass w/ plenty of light. Those solder points are tiny!
**WARNING!**
It takes practice. If this is your first attempt at soldering I can almost guarantee you'll kill the card. Practice on an old piece of hardware first.
Let me clarify...
I will put a little solder on the wire, then place the wire on the place I want to solder to, then place the S. iron in both.
I have never soldered on a board before...I have no extra boards around. This better not kill my card!!! (I better be careful)
Do you have an old console system or any thing in your house that has a printed circuit board in it?
Nothing. :down:Quote:
Originally Posted by jason4207
I have soldered a lot before, just not on printed boards.
EDIT: I think I have a NIC card somewhere. I will definately test on something before I solder that board.
I got a needle tipped iron and small solder so I should be ok....should.
I used some sandpaper to sharpen the tip...works very nice!
most important part is always pre-tin the wiresQuote:
Originally Posted by jas420221
btw, i see some people use 500 ohms or 1k ohms, whats the differences?
Thats what I am going to do!!! :clap:Quote:
Originally Posted by Bail_w
From what I understand (please correct me if I am wrong) its the accuracy of the voltage (at higher volts?). There is a post a page or so back that says that I believe.
1k is more readily available, so a lot of folks use it, but 500 will give you finer control over the voltage and is preferred.
so you set the VR to max (let say 500ohms), then solder it to the circuit. then adjust the resistance while the system is turn on and monitoring the vgpu readout? is that the correct way?
Yes.
Okay Here is my vgpu mod, but when i turn the trimmer cw nothing change. the vgpu stays at 1.21v :confused:
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...w/IMG_0339.jpg
Edit: nvm, after i turn like 20 times, now it works. :)
I don't know, but I think you are working risky down there with the VR, the wires are to much naked above those tiny resistors... One little wrong move and maybe a part of the naked wire touches a other resistor and it byebye card... ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Bail_w
Dunno becuase I never did vmods with solder, so correct me if i'm wrong :) .
EDIT:
I mean the naked wires aboven the card itself, not attached on the VR...
@Prodigys The picture was taken from the top view, but i take it from side view, the wire never touches.
with the BAR style VR's, which direction do i turn the knob to get it to max resistance ?
[B]
--------------
|____________|O <----knob
| | | <----pins
[A]
looking at the above picture, do i turn the knob towards A, or B ??
*edit* wow, ok thats not gonna work :(
Use your DMM to measure the resistance.
ericab, as jason mentioned arbitrarily pick either end pin and test it for it's resistance using the DMM, most people like to use the one that results in an increase in voltage when turned clockwise
and jason thanks for keeping this thread alive by answering questions it's really apreciated man
a couple of questions...
based on what Bail_w said,
after i've done the soldering and reinstalled my card into the pci-e slot, what should the GPU resistor be set to (BEFORE turning on the power supply) ? 500ohm? 250ohms? 100ohms? 50ohms ?Quote:
so you set the VR to max (let say 500ohms), then solder it to the circuit. then adjust the resistance while the system is turn on and monitoring the vGPU readout? is that the correct way?
also; what is the MAX recommended voltage we should be putting through the GPU ?
also, lets say i want to get a core of 900MHz.... what voltage do you expect will necessary to achieve this ?
You want to measure the resistance of the VR before you solder it in. Set it to 450-500 Ohms. Once you solder it in you'll be measuring the resistance of the entire circuit, and it should be ~13-15 Ohms iirc.Quote:
Originally Posted by ericab
Max voltage is personal preference. So far I've stayed at 1.35v-idle on good air. If you're on water you should be able to go higher...or if you have cold ambient temps on air. LN2/DI...even higher. Temps are very important, though. Once you get over 50-55*C more voltage won't help much...it might make things worse.
Some guys go much higher on the voltage. If you're fine w/ possibly killing your card then go for it, but if that is going to put your PC out of commission then you should probably be more conservative.
As for 900MHz...I haven't gotten there on air, but perhaps 1.45v-idle? :shrug: It really depends on how good your chip is. It seems like it takes a lot more voltage than might be prudent to go from 864 to 900MHz.
Best bet is to start out at like 1.25v-idle, and see what she'll do...then move up a bit. It sounds like you just want to set it to something, and go for it, but that's not the best way to find a max. :up:
well son of a bitc*.
my second card down the drain.
ill never be volt-modding a gfx card again
So what happened?Quote:
Originally Posted by ericab
did everything by the book;Quote:
Originally Posted by runmc
powered up the comp;
powersupply made the loudest, shrillest noise ive heard; sounded kinda like a smoke alarm; weeweeeeweee......... you get the picture.
plume of smoke blew off of the PCI-E power connector port; terrible smell.
computer shut down;
wouldnt boot back up, stuck on "CPU INIT"
cleared CMOS
removed card, and replaced with my trusty 7950.
ideas?
:slapass: <--- voltmod
Show us pix of your handywork...
too late. ive already got it wrapped and packaged; wires removed.Quote:
Originally Posted by jas420221
Ouch, dude!
Too bad you didn't take any pics...I would have liked to see it.
Was this your 1st time soldering? How about fine soldering?
It's always a good idea to double-check all your connections w/ a magnifying glass under good lighting. I also like to measure resistances and check continuity (to make sure I haven't shorted any near-by components) before putting the card back in the PC.
You also need to inspect the card to make sure no solder blobs or small pieces of wire went stray. I like to hit it w/ some canned air for good measure as well.
Maybe soldered to an incorrect point instead of ground
Yup, something must've gone wrong from the beginning.
Too bad ericab didn't take a pic of the mod area...