My first lapping over 400grit, time to break out the last of my as5 :D
http://a967.ac-images.myspacecdn.com...cb23bcc18e.jpg
http://a436.ac-images.myspacecdn.com...b1c9cd96d3.jpg
http://a637.ac-images.myspacecdn.com...041163d454.jpg
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My first lapping over 400grit, time to break out the last of my as5 :D
http://a967.ac-images.myspacecdn.com...cb23bcc18e.jpg
http://a436.ac-images.myspacecdn.com...b1c9cd96d3.jpg
http://a637.ac-images.myspacecdn.com...041163d454.jpg
I don't think that using AS5 on such a polished surface is a good idea. I mean AS5 won't perform better than a silicon based thermal paste when the surface roughness is so low. Try it. ;)
well, the paste in the pic tells me contact is good, maybe no paste, is there any advantage at all to using any particular kind of paste after mirroring? I guess I'll go find out :p:
Yes, there is. There are still microscopic gaps that need to be filled to get the best possible thermal contact. You just have to find the paste with the right particle size. ;)
AS Ceramique on a 600 grit finish is about as good as it gets!! Its about the best match for its particle size.
Said the lame lapper :D
Well Cathar said it too but who's listening? ;) This is about performance & beauty, not just performance ;)
Quote:
Originally Posted by G H Z
lame lapper?? is that in reference to me? look at this one chumly :)
http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/2...9jr1pf9ss5.jpg
:up:
any way to unlid an e6400? otherwise, i may have to lap also... but i always unlidded my s939 CPUs... this is my 1st core2 chip.
Sure ... smear a bunch of AS5 in the bottom of a frying pan ... smack your CPU heatspreader down on the AS5 and slowly heat the pan until the solder pops.Quote:
Originally Posted by g0dM@n
:)
There's a thread somewhere from a guy who did that with his 6700 ...
I remember reading the C2D's IHS is soldered, so it's not easy to "unlid" it. Actually, you may well break the core while "unliding" it...Quote:
Originally Posted by g0dM@n
However, if memory serves me right, I have seen pictures of "IHS-free" C2Ds... Anyone care to elaborate on this one?
Cheers.
Miguel
I'm very careful with my work... I may just want to give it a shot if indeed it's nothing TOO difficult for a modder to do. I've done my fair share of popping lids on A64s, and my fair share of customized mods... I feel like I wanna give it a shot.Quote:
Originally Posted by s1rrah
It's not like it's a $500 CPU... cost me about $150 and I am willing to chance it (if it's not too difficult).
Let me know if you find the thread. Thx. :)
Godman, IIRC removing the IHS on C2D chips doesn't help temps versus lapping.
I think all the copper from the IHS is more beneficial than not having it at all.
The IHS is made of copper underneath and what, nickel coating? I guess I could lap it... I've lapped my fair share of heatsinks, but wouldn't I have to wet the sandpaper? I don't want a WET cpu!! :(Quote:
Originally Posted by wa77ss
And Taffer, that damn avatar is driving me insane... my gf called in to me at work, and I just couldn't pay attention to what she was telling me. :D
Lapping is really extreme of extreme... but if u get results go for it, just be carefull...
You can do wet or dry, depending on how long Taffer keeps his avatar IoI
But aside from joking, its a personal thing , some are more comfortable with dry some with wet lapping, and i dont think u can dammage your CPU if u let it dry sufficient enough...
I wet lapped mine and if you take precautions like having a towel nearby and tapping the cpu on it after every couple of turns you'll be just fine. :yepp:
Well, I lapped my 6400 with great results, gained another 200MHz stable, and about 8-12c cooler at 1.5v, also stabilized the cores running at different temps, also lapped my HSF.. AS5 worked allright with it I think, and hmmmm... yea, wet sanding the whole way, DON"T worry about getting it wet, just make sure its dry before you turn it on, I waited a day, my bro used a hair dryer...
Here's my chip hope u like it :D
For this lap job I used the stuff they use 2 polish contact lenses.
I haven't used it since the lap job, still waiting 4 my TR ultra 120 X
omg she has a six pack :p:Quote:
Originally Posted by g0dM@n
Lapping is nice, but one project im going to try is to buy an E4400 (whose IHS is not soldered on) and swap the IHS with an old celeron IHS, resoldering it onto the E4400... Then lapping it :D
Quote:
Originally Posted by g0dM@n
Quote:
Originally Posted by Angelico_Payne
Sorry for the long delay in replying :) I was distracted by my avatar :shocked: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...ine=1173738565Quote:
Originally Posted by xTr33m sammich!
:shrug: I don't exactly know where I pulled the image from, but I was Googling some sites with avatar as the subject. I'm a leg and butt man for the most part, but a stomach like that...:slobber: deserves an award :oscar: :oscar: :oscar:
Does anyone find it offensive? I had one person request that I remove it and put up something a little more computer geeky. I hope you all do not mind that I never found the time to anwser his request.
I've got a degree in computer electronics technology and 99.9% of the time, water will not hurt electronics at all, so long as they are not under power while wet. If you dry them thoroughly first, you should be fine. The same goes for cell phones...if you drop one in water, remove the battery ASAP and let it dry. I would try my best to keep water off of the contacts (and use the black plastic that covers the contacts as well) anyway just to save the hassle of cleaning them, but some good, high percentage alcohol (Johnny Walker & Jim Beam etc. do not count) should clean it up nicely. Just be sure to use some form of lint free cloth if you do, and pat it dry instead of wiping just to be sure you don't snag the edge of a contact and ruin your day. Always better safe than sorry. :yepp:
:off:
Oh, the cell phone tip...there is a white indicator near the battery that turns pink or red if you get it wet...so there is no need to lie and say it did not get wet, the proof is there. The last time I did that was winter so I hung it on my car vent, turned the heat all the way up and turned on the AC to lower the humidity to allow for faster evaporation. Worked like a champ.
I like it :)
I just experimented with metal/metal contact on my Freezer 7 Pro @ 600 Grit and lapped E6600 @ 15 Micron.
It actually RAISED temps. By 6C -- from 32C to 38C idle. It used to be seated with Arctic Silver Ceramique.
The paste is not suitable for surfaces with such a low surface roughness. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by pH(x)
If you lap everything to a full mirror finish, then all you normally need is silicon oil, which is the base for a high number of thermal pastes anyway.
First sorry if I raised and 'old' thread up. I lapped my E2160 today and there were no decrease in temps or they might have rised a little bit. I used 400->600->800->1000 grit sandpaper for the lapping and I had a mirror as a base for the sandpaper. Used enough water for the paper and everything seemed ok. Used the 400 grit paper to get rid of the nickel on the HS and then finished it with the higher grit papers. Of course the HS didn't have a mirror finish but I thought It was ok as freecableguy used just 600 grit paper to finish the HS in his faq. First time I mounted the boxed heatsink the cpu and cooler had no contact whatsoever and temps were very high. After that I remounted the cooler and it seemed that it had a decent contact but temps were not better. Can somebody tell me what might be the reason for the crappy temps after lapping?
QX6850 i got about 3C lower @ full loadQuote:
Originally Posted by Nazu
try to lap to 2000
But there's a lot of people who hasn't even used 2000 grit paper to finish their hs and they still got a better temps.
Well I had good results on the 644G but zero effect on my 632a all depends on ya IHS , if it was pretty flat you won't notice much difference, but with my 744G it was immediately clear the edges were higher than the inner core... that CPU lost 6°C and I can now reach 3600mzh on 1.5 volts there while temps stay around 56°C coretemp...
Too bad temps didn't drop for my 632A ...
Hi, Nazu. First of all, remember you need to wait some time for the thermal paste to settle (I believe the correct term is "cure") and get to full efficiency.
Also, please do bear in mind that the 21x0 series of CPUs is VERY cool... I mean, the E4x00 are already impressively cool (I can run my E4300 only a couple of degrees above ambient temp at idle and with the stock cooler), so there is actually a limit of how much you can gain from lapping a CPU... Probably the gains you can get with a 21x0 "Pentium Dual Core" will probably be on load temps. That is, if my understandings about TDPs and thermodynamics are correct (I'm a law major, do keep that in mind... lol).
One last thing I have on the back of my mind since a while ago... I think it CAN happen for the CPU and heatsink to actually loose contact when lapping, at least on LGA-based CPUs. After all, the CPU retainer and CPU are made considering the extra layer that is removed when lapping... Is this too far-fetched?
Cheers.
Miguel
Yeah I know that the AS5 I have between the cpu and cooler needs to cure to get the best results. I would not say my cpu is cool, 45 at idle and hitting 70 at load (I think this is way more than it should be...). That is at 3.0GHz and 1.344 vcore. I have thought about it too that what if the cpu's hs got lowered and there's not enough pressure between the cpu and the boxed cooler?
http://www.directupload.net/images/0...p/Ap4RndTF.jpg
E6600@3,6Ghz@1,35V
http://www.directupload.net/images/0...p/WqdU5CSK.jpg
I got about 5°C lower Temp.@full load
i lap with 3µm Polishp.
;)
What kind of cooler are you using? 70ºC is a temperature NO Core-based CPU should hit... Well, I'm being over-confident, I know. But 70ºC on a 3GHz 2160 still seems a lot... Unless, of course, you're using the stock cooler, which is clearly not made for high heat outputs... You need either a non-21x0 stock cooler (you can tell by the copper center, which the 21x0 coolers don't have) or something more "after-market".Quote:
Originally Posted by Nazu
Apart from that, I'm lost. I'm not much of an OC'er, so there can be other factors at work I son't know about...
Cheers.
Miguel
The e21xx chips arent soldered to the IHS... That could explain high temps.
I have thought about removing the IHS too. That should be easy cos the IHS isn't soldered to the core as you said. I'm using the copper core boxed cooler which should be better than the stock all aluminum one but seems like not :( I have already ordered a new cooler (Tuniq tower) but the shop doesn't have it at stock so I don't know how long I have to wait for it...Quote:
Originally Posted by oohms
I wouldn't OC on stock cooler @ all.
x2, stock coolers aren't that very efficient to begin with, and anything above 45ºC makes them scream like there's no tomorrow...Quote:
Originally Posted by Jodiuh
For light OCs, try something like Artic Cooling (extra-cheap, silent and somewhat more efficient than the stock cooler); for anything heavier, Scythe, Tunic and Thermaltake are the ones to go. At least from what I've been reading.
Cheers.
Miguel
Little OT but I'll post this here anyways... Which cooler would you pick from these:
Noctua NH-U9F
Scythe Infinity
Scythe Andy Samurai Master
Thermaltake BigTyphoon VX
Thermaltake Sonic Tower rev.2 + 120mm Papst 18db fan
Those are the ones that fit my 60€ budget. Scythe coolers have the not-so-great push pin mounting but afaik that should be pretty easy to replace with a proper bolt+nut+spring mounting. Thermaltake coolers are older than the others and I'm concerned that the performance isn't that great. Noctua has a 92mm fan which isn't that good but if the performance is ok that isn't an obstacle.
I'm using the scythe infinity. It was a pain in the ass to mount(you also need to make sure it will clear everything around the socket area). In hindsight i probably would have gone with this: http://www.tankguys.biz/product_info...oducts_id=1735
From what i have seen it does just a good a job if not better and it is much smaller.
Tankguys even sells it 'pre lapped' if you want.:D
http://www.tankguys.biz/product_info...oducts_id=1743
TR Ultra is too expensive and I'm not ordering stuff from US as I live in Finland. Those coolers that I've listed are the 'only' options that I really have.
K then. Big Typhoon or the Infinity is what i would go with.
link for german website mate :
http://www.alternate.de/html/shop/pr...-K%FChler&
Not really cheaper than here in Finland. Also 30 euros shipping costs from Alternate so no point ordering just a cooler from that place.
Well if the Ultra 120 is also 44 euro's Finland you are in ya budget then mate... better to invest in a decent cooler instead of going budget wise and gain a few degrees while the more expensive ones will do way better...
Of the ones mentioned I would pick the Scythe infinity mate, the samurai version is a rip off
hmm.. considering lapping my e6600.. at 3.6GHz under full orthos i can get as high as 70c! on a swiftech w/c. Probably a bad seat or too much AS5 but if i'm gonna take it apart i'll prolly lap it anyway.
My thought here is though, the tin on the IHS is there to prevent the copper from oxidizing. Copper oxides very easily, over a short amount of time here woudln't the temperatures get worse because normal humidity in the air (especially related with the varying temps from use) casue oxidation regardless of paste etc?
seems a possibility and i would like to hear from some long time cases that have had their systems lapped for 2+ years before i do it :X
Oxidation is from contact with oxygen. Sorry, I am not trying to be silly, :shrug: , but if you have lapped your heatsync and CPU, put in some thermal paste, installed your CPU and clamped on the heatsync, the contact between the CPU and heatsync should not have contact with oxygen except for the time between lapping and installing. Once installed you should be in good shape in regards to oxidation as the thermal paste should block out any air. :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by NGL_BrSH
I may be a little late, but if you are able to find a Tuniq Tower 120, they have received the editor's choice award from xbit-labs in their article named, "Tuniq Tower 120 Cooler Review: All Super Coolers are Great, but Some Are Greater Than the Others."Quote:
Originally Posted by Nazu
http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coo...ower120_8.html
It stomped the higher rated supercoolers by a minimum of 7 degrees celcius and up to 13 degrees when faced off against the Scythe Ninga, Scythe Shogun, Thermaltake Sonic Tower, Thermaltake Big Typhoon, and Zalman CNPS9500 LED. Well, until it was tested they were higher rated. Sells for around $50 US. I hope you can get it in Finnland. These tests were stock, but trust me, you'll want to lap it. Oh, and these tests did not have the Tuniq Tower 120 fan turned all the way up either. The down side is that it is big and heavy, so if you travel with your computer for LAN gaming or anything, you'll have to take a little care. Looks nice though!
Ok so i lapped my e6600 yesterday. Still too soon to tell but it is running a few degrees cooler.
here's the link
http://stk.fps-city.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6348
:P
I got good result on S939 with this one + 3 yate loonQuote:
Originally Posted by Nazu
http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/5559/dsc01581cj6.jpg
I tried my U120e and I got the same temp with2 yate loon on the S939 rig 1°c or 2°c hotter than the sonic tower
I think it's a good choice as I run my fans @ 650 rpm only for silent setup.
My new E6600 L632A :)
http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/9...0071346ly9.jpg
http://img223.imageshack.us/img223/2...0071347mh4.jpg
http://img523.imageshack.us/img523/1...0071336uo3.jpg
http://img265.imageshack.us/img265/7...0071338st0.jpg
Şİmdi biraz daha hızlanıyoruz zımparalama için ve kum sayısı düşürüyoruz ki pürüzsüz bir yüzey olsun [sm=ok.gif]
http://img258.imageshack.us/img258/8...0071339oa0.jpg
http://img110.imageshack.us/img110/1...0071340cb1.jpg
http://img110.imageshack.us/img110/5...0071341ox8.jpg
http://img110.imageshack.us/img110/4...0071344fp4.jpg
http://img110.imageshack.us/img110/4...0071343ta7.jpg
http://img509.imageshack.us/img509/1...0071345er0.jpg
;)
excellent
I decided to ditch aircooling and go straight for watercooling :D I've been looking for Swiftech H20-220-APEX-ULTRA+ kit for cpu/nb/gpu cooling.Quote:
Originally Posted by Taffer
Real nice RockfordFosgate. What improvments have you seen in temps? What were you're temps before lapping and after (idle & load)?
@cool_dude
Thanks.
Before:
Core1:45 Core2:48 @3.6 1.4v idle///Load: 50 53
After:
Core1:44 Core2:45 /// Load:48-48
;)
Your cores idle at 3°C less then load ? mine bump up from 38° to 55°C under load...
I love my apogee GTX :D
well, unless you ambient temp is very low or you use very little vcore. otherwise i wouldnt believe you.Quote:
Originally Posted by RockfordFosgate
1.4v bios-1.35v reel (P5B deluxe vdrop)
Up load temp is not orthos guys @Ortos 51-51 (1.45v bıos 1.4v reel)
Ahhh, watercooling. Overkill is never enough! But then, that's why we're all on this site! Glad you found something that works and makes you happy. I'll go that route one day...maybe later on this computer or on my next. Always bigger and better than the last!Quote:
Originally Posted by Nazu
Taffer
These are some ridiculous pics guys.
Good job.
heres mine its not a dual core but its a conroe the L model to be exact, you guessed it right its a one of those new celerons that have a conroe based architecture :D
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t...s/DSCN0558.jpg
Great work, excelent finish. However, one question comes to my mind... The new Cellys can almost work without a heatsink (bear with me, please :p:), and can join the 100% OC club with the stock voltage (not bad) AND cooler (which is HALF of the E21xx coolers, without even a copper center). So, you lapped yours because...?Quote:
Originally Posted by Solarfall
:ROTF::ROTF::ROTF::ROTF:
Kidding, of course. If you run it stock (cooler and speed), please undervolt it and tell us your temps. Since I'm getting something like 5ºC above room temperature at idle with my undervolted non-lapped E4300 (stock cooler), this HAS to be a sight... hehe
Cheers.
Miguel
the reason i lapped the ihs was cos the contact was really bad ... and i don't undervolt anything ... ever.Quote:
Originally Posted by __Miguel_
i'm a overclocker and my main goal is ALWAYS the highest possible clock speed that i can achieve with my gear.
the word undervolting does not belong in my vocabulary. im all about speed. :D
the highest i have gotten that particular chip is 3.8ghz with 1.64v temps were at idle 40c and on 100% load somewere around 49-55c with water cooling.
check out my thread for other results: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=149459
I figured the lapping was for OC purposes. I was just teasing :p:
Still, even after lapping and with WC, those temps seem rather high... I saw your thread about that CPU, and it almost seems you got a bad one... The other Conroe-L thread on the forum doesn't even need overvolting to reach the 100% OC mark (and since it is (still) running with the stock cooler, temps should be below 65ºC). It also tops out right after that, but that's another story... lol
Anyway, great work. I'm not an OC'er (no time and no funds to replace something if I break it, though I do have an E6400 and a P5B Deluxe... hehe), so what you guys do is just awesome to me, and (almost) anything I say may not prove to be right or even meaningfull. But damn, those are some wicked results...
Cheers.
Miguel
well actually i thing that core temp is not showing the right temps.. cos now that i think of it, the temperatures remained the same at 3ghz and 3.8ghz witch is basically impossible. since 3ghz was gained with stock voltage and the 3.8ghz with 1.64v.. so something is wrong there.
I'm going to lap my QX6700 soon. I may lap my FuZion as well...
argh are you serious... lapping your fuzion is a sacrilege, and besides the base of that particular block is really flat the begin with,Quote:
Originally Posted by invalidbuffalo
and i don't see any point in lapping it :confused: :confused:
Well, while I do agree those temps are a little strange, don't forget you have to factor in the adaptation period of the thermal paste/grease (which could account up to 5ºC), and the thermal conductivity of some materials. You might just have a block that isn't all that good transferring small amounts of heat, but that increases that capability with more heat applied to it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Solarfall
I think I have seen this happen, at least with air tower heatpipe coolers (you can see that on the Anandtech cooler reviews), so I don't think I'm bending any law of physics just by telling this... :p:
But if those temps are really off, the most recent ones seem to be more accurate (and more likely to appear).
Also, can Core Temp just be wrong when measuring temps from ConRoe-L chips? They are new parts, after all...
Cheers.
Miguel
Just lapped my QX6700 :)
Before:
http://img244.imageshack.us/img244/8...forelapad2.jpg
After:
http://img240.imageshack.us/img240/6...dpolishct9.jpg
I did the lapping job on my E6600 L626A115, and the temp's decrease about 5c but still the temp's are way to high I don't understand it any more, since I have second E6600 new batch so it work's @1.46v and 3.550 stable, Idle temp's are 32c both core's, and the lapped one I have it on 3.6Ghz and 1.4v and the idle temp's are over 48c and it's really good lapping on it also on my Scythe Infinity, same cooler on both cores, the on with more voltage is much cooler then the other with less.
Anybody any IDEA what else I could do, since I know this cpu would OC very well but not with those high temp's.
Thanks
Having a weird one with my pc below.
CPU idles at about 38c on XP and on Vista 46c. Weird!.
Have ordered a lapping kit and going to do the Tuniq hs first and then maybe the cpu if I'm still not happy with the temps.
So my question is which will give me the better decrease? The CPU or HS?
My 632A is also 5-8°C on idle than my 477G, A's can run high speeds with less voltage though put out more heat than eg B versions... (if I'm not mistaken)
I need 1.42 real volts for 3.6GHz on the 632a...for 3.6Ghz on the 744G I need 1.51 volts though this one runs 10°C cooler under load...
so the A's are just hotter then the B's look's like it, no matter about the voltage :(
Weired but truth
@ Airblazer, Vista just needs power permanently so thats why you have higher temp's on it, and about the lapping I would say no matter what you going to lap best would be both cooler and cpu, but you will get better temps no matter which one you lap it will make better contact to each other.
Good Luck.
Cheers Dede for that...hopefully the kit arrives today and I can start tonight..first time lapper so hopefully I screw nothing up.
This was a great post on lapping :)
It was my first time also on CPU lapping just get enough time and do it slowly and there want be any problem, secure the pin side good so the dust don't get to it and it stays clean.
Good Luck :)
I lapped my U120 Extreme over the weekend. I used knife oil to make it easier and not leave scratches. I used 220, 650, and 1500grit wet dry paper. But it is not a mirror like these. If I start to do it dry it leaves scratches. Do I need higher grit sandpaper or will it finish like a mirror if I just keep doing it? Will it even make a difference between a flat copper finish and a mirror copper finish?
mirror != flatQuote:
Originally Posted by MaK2000
flat is what you want
Mmmk. I already checked mine with a piece of glass. If mirror won't matter than I am fine like mine is. Not as pretty to look at as these though. Heh. I was thinking of buffing it with a dremel but would hate to leave a gouge to have to flatten back out.
to elaborate mirror surface has less surface area making thermal compound less effective
I plan on lapping my IHS as soon as I get off of my butt and buy some paper. I am planning on dry sanding. I'm going to cover the back of the CPU with the little black piece that comes in the retail box. I have read tons about this on lots of forums, and have decided dry is easier with the same results. I am planning on 400 ,600, 800, 1000, or something like that. My Zalman 9500 has a mirror finish on it, seriously, I could shave in it. But I am going to mark it up with a sharpie and run it over some fine grit 2000 paper and see if the sharpie markings rub right off. If not, a lapping I will go in it also. I don't recommend metal polish either. I am going to clean everything off every once in a while with some compressed air, do the same at the end, and then use the AS cleaner and polish. I'll clean up the back of the CPU, just in case also. I am excited to see what happens. I know a guy that got a 11C drop in temps simply by lapping his IHS to an 800 grit flat surface.
Whoever said that is wrong, use water and do not press on the chip at all - 2000 grit or finer.Quote:
Originally Posted by MaK2000
Did you start sanding your thumb or something?:DQuote:
Originally Posted by Ad1tya
Nice job. That CPU definitely needed it. I can't believe that first pic!! That is one hell of a concave IHS you had there.
I lapped mine a couple weeks ago with 320, 800, 1500 grit. I found that in the end a light sanding of 1500grit DRY left me with the best finish. It was very close to mirror finish. Unfortunately i didn't have my digital camera on hand to take a pic. I'll be damned if i'm going to remove my scythe infinity after 3 removals so far. Maybe when i get my quad i'll take a pic of it.
lowering the temps is the only benefit from lapping??? the decrease in the temps is worth it?? and how many degrees are we talking about??
In a case like the user above ^^^. See that copper border? The center of the IHS on the chip wasn't making good contact with the heatsink. Totally worth doing. If your temps seem unusually high there's probably a reason for it.Quote:
Originally Posted by miesso
Well lapped both CPU and HS last night. CPU was really off in the center. After initial sanding I had a copper border so cpu was really off in the centre.
Took me about 20 mins lapping the CPU and about 10 for the HS as it was fine really. Used a hair dryer to dry cpu and about an hour's air drying.
Have to say I'm really impressed with the decrease in temps.
Under XP all 4 cores idle at 37/36/36/35 which was pretty similiar to what I originally getting under XP. However decoding a movie which originally had the CPU hitting upto 65c now only hits 51c.
Under Vista CPU now ides at 41/40c which is a 8c drop. Under load it now hits only 53c as opposed to 68c.
So overall I'm very happy with the results.
Not even close to as shiny as most in this thread but I thought I'd share my first one.
http://boxcarsolutions.com/misc/lap2.jpg
http://boxcarsolutions.com/misc/lap5.jpg
That's because a chip's never idle in Vista. ;) Actually my HDD freaks out the most.Quote:
Originally Posted by Airblazer™
And you get a shiny looking chip to reflect off ordinary household objects and share in a forum on the interwebs! My favorite's the one out the window a few pages back.Quote:
Originally Posted by miesso
As long as it's flat, right? :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Boxcar
Ahaha.. No.. I didnt sand that thumb.Quote:
Originally Posted by GripS
I sanded my Right hands, Middle finger and Thumb a bit. Frigging didnt stop bleeding. :(. Yea, it was my first lap :P.
The Left hand thumb, you can see band-aided, is due to touching Hot tubes :@. Had to heat them in almost boiling water, and after like 5-6 fit's, the skin on my thumb tore off. Luckily, it didnt bleed, but the exposed skin on the thumb, was tender as hell.
Any who.. I started lapping with 400 Grit. The 1st Pic you see is after 400 Grit. Moved on the 600 Grit, got the 2nd pic from after 600 Grit.
Moved to 1000 Grit for a little sanding and flattening.
Then the 3rd and 4th pics are results after 2000 Grit, Wet sanding.
I know what that is like I get "grip-burn" from my skateboard grip tape which is pretty much like sandpaper all the time. The worst thing about it is it's not just a cut it like stings the whole time. Pretty painful, haha.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ad1tya
^^ Lol, you bet.
I couldnt really apply much pressure with my 2 fingers for 2 days.
Here's my very first attemp done ( dry ) not bad if a say so myself all by hand no polishing tools lol.
http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/4...elapps9.th.jpg
My lapped Q6600 g0
http://img142.imageshack.us/img142/4...s006ip1.th.jpg
this was my first jap job on an ES E6700 (just took a pic b4 i posted the CPU abroad)
Sweet lookin procs guys
i think the success of this thread needs to be realized more :) *BUMP*
Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyM
WAYYY to much paste man!!!!
2 little drops in the corners is all u need. Trust me your loosing about 30% efficiency with that much on there.
I got an 11C drop by lapping to 15 Microns :p:Quote:
Originally Posted by chavalcito
before
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...PIC_0003-6.jpg
after
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...k/DSC00010.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...PIC_0002-7.jpg
(last image is rather big)
Temp drop was arround 10*c along with a lapped tuniq 120 heatsink, was lapped for me by a friend, he lapped it normally then ended up using a polishing kit that is used for fighter planes :D
What? No more lapped IHS...:confused:
forgotten?
let's go up!:)
Don't have the pics in the process, I used just the lapping paste/polish...
Therefore I have silver reflection
Pretty big pic, sry
http://www.imagesforme.com/out.php/i15572_DSC02404.JPG