**Official DFI LanParty UT P35-T2R Review/Overclock/Guide Thread**

hey guys I got an e8400 that will do 4.3@1.45v no problem, on air. It can post 560fsb. Problem is that it is at performance level 8,only level 9 makes it stable for prime 95, however, the tv tuner frezes no mater what on my x1900 aiw atfter about 5 min if the fsb is more the 475. Increasing the voltages ( cpu, nb, vtt+gtl doesnt help). pcix is at 100

btw that is at 1:1, the 333/800 lets me run my 4gb gskill 1066 at 1121 @2v(5,5,3,15 trfc 48) and fsb is 467 1.5v nb, 1.17v vtt, gtl strong 58 60 58)
should I rma the board?
Wojtek

Is there any incompatible issue between G.Skill F2-8500CL5D-4GBPK and LPUT P35 ? I hardly to passed stable oc like I used before with my 2gb kit D9GMH. My proc is E8200 and use Vista x64. I Look back this thread and found what Praz shared with his GBPQ version, and those setting isn't work with my GBPK :(

Not sure if this is a place for my problem. I have 3870's in crossfire that have been flashed to increase max core from 885mhz. Problem is both cards are flashed but I can only go over 885mhz with the card that is in Bus 1(PCI-E x16 @ x16) not Bus 2(PCI-E x16 @ x4). Any ideas on how to fix it? Is it a motherboard issue?

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Originally Posted by zsamz_

the p45 commin soon doubt they be makin any more hey it might be as good lol

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I'm betting on the UT P45 T3R to be an awesome board too. But you never know.

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Originally Posted by mrcape

I'm betting on the UT P45 T3R to be an awesome board too. But you never know.

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its just so hard to beat this board right now

Anyone ever flashed from new to an old bios ver on this board? I want to step back to 3/17 to compare a few things. Before I do that I wanted to check and see if anyone has had issues rolling back on this board.

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Originally Posted by mrcape

Anyone ever flashed from new to an old bios ver on this board? I want to step back to 3/17 to compare a few things. Before I do that I wanted to check and see if anyone has had issues rolling back on this board.

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No problems at all.

Tx for the quick response Kitfit1 !

yeap,go straight and flash it.

you will have no problems at all. Just curious however, are you flashing back from 502 or 521? If so, any reason why?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mrcape

Anyone ever flashed from new to an old bios ver on this board? I want to step back to 3/17 to compare a few things. Before I do that I wanted to check and see if anyone has had issues rolling back on this board.

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i put an x-38 chip in mine n flashed it to latest bios lol

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Originally Posted by cantankerous

you will have no problems at all. Just curious however, are you flashing back from 502 or 521? If so, any reason why?

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From 5/21. Not sure if there's a major difference, but I want to go back and be sure, and take note of it.

5/21 is working just fine with all of my hardware and cmos profiles. The one thing I did notice (and want to confirm) was that 3/17 applied .02 less vcore at idle in windows, for the same amount set in bios (same profile). Not that that's a big deal at all, it seems to be that a range shifted slightly is all. In other words, with 5/21 I had to adjust down a few bumps to get the same idle vcore I got in 3/17.

Also I sorta jumbled the 5/21 I'm currently running testing high fsb. I got some scrambled cmos codes, reset, got em again, reset, boot up fine. I know I need to reflash something, so now is a goot time to check 3/17 again.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mrcape

From 5/21. Not sure if there's a major difference, but I want to go back and be sure, and take note of it.

5/21 is working just fine with all of my hardware and cmos profiles. The one thing I did notice (and want to confirm) was that 3/17 applied .02 less vcore at idle in windows, for the same amount set in bios (same profile). Not that that's a big deal at all, it seems to be that a range shifted slightly is all. In other words, with 5/21 I had to adjust down a few bumps to get the same idle vcore I got in 3/17.

Also I sorta jumbled the 5/21 I'm currently running testing high fsb. I got some scrambled cmos codes, reset, got em again, reset, boot up fine. I know I need to reflash something, so now is a goot time to check 3/17 again.

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Thanks for the explanation. I was thinking of going to 5/21 so wanted to hear your opinion on it. When it comes to the slightly higher vcore, was vcore set it in bios itself, or did you have vcore on auto but adjusted using the special % option?

OK...I just got one of these & have a question (since I don't really have time to go through 189 pages...please forgive my laziness).
I'm getting ready to put this in a Stacker 832 w/a Corsair 520HX PSU. I'll have 3 of the 4 fans installed on the side panel (cannot install the 4th due to my HSF...a Xigmatek HD-S1283).
The "Transpiper" system...is it worth the time to install?
I'm currently running an E6300, but have a BNIB Q6700 that I may install. If I do, will the 520HX be enough? My other components are a XFX 7900GT, WD640GB hdd, a pair of Samsung SH-S203B's, 6x120mm fans & a fan rheostat.
That's all the questions I have for now, but i'm sure after I get it fired up, i'll have more.
Thanks!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by cantankerous

Thanks for the explanation. I was thinking of going to 5/21 so wanted to hear your opinion on it. When it comes to the slightly higher vcore, was vcore set it in bios itself, or did you have vcore on auto but adjusted using the special % option?

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The vcore was set manually with no special add. And yes vcore amount manually set in 3/17 definitely applies less voltage by .02v.

So it was all a success. Thanks for confirmation that rolling back works. I've had a Brother Esau bios chip on hand for months and had no need to use it yet. I have OC'd the crap out of it hundreds of different ways and was sure by now I'd fry that chip. This board is a just a tank!

The P45 TR2 board looks pretty much the same as the P35. :D I guess I won't be itching for an X48 and a P45. hehehe

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Originally Posted by fireice2

The P45 TR2 board looks pretty much the same as the P35. :D I guess I won't be itching for an X48 and a P45. hehehe

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you must know the p35 is better :D

P45 TR3 would be nice though.

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Originally Posted by mrcape

P45 TR3 would be nice though.

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ya but i got too much ddr2 lol n i always buyin more
but i will buy the ut p45 1000%

There will be LanParty UT P45 DDR2? I saw only DK with DDR2 :/

For sure it will be both LT and Ut,unfortunately DFI is late again with 2 months,just hoping that those boards will rock :)

Well, I got my UT P35 installed in my case & everything hooked up. I hit the power button, it ran for about 3 seconds, shut off, restarted, ran for about 2 seconds, shut off, etc. No post, didn't even run long enough to turn the power LED on my monitor from amber (standby) to green (power).
I reset everything I could reset, reseated everything that could be reseated, but still no go.
I know the ram & the video card that are in there are good as they just came off my previous motherboard.
Ideas? Suggestions?
Thanks.

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Originally Posted by JGKC9AYC

Well, I got my UT P35 installed in my case & everything hooked up. I hit the power button, it ran for about 3 seconds, shut off, restarted, ran for about 2 seconds, shut off, etc. No post, didn't even run long enough to turn the power LED on my monitor from amber (standby) to green (power).
I reset everything I could reset, reseated everything that could be reseated, but still no go.
I know the ram & the video card that are in there are good as they just came off my previous motherboard.
Ideas? Suggestions?
Thanks.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by JGKC9AYC

OK...I just got one of these & have a question (since I don't really have time to go through 189 pages...please forgive my laziness).

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As you listed none of your components it's doubtful anyone can give a definitive answer. Sounds like it could be a common issue that's easy enough to solve though. The answer is in this thread. Too bad you really didn't have time to go through it.

Try reseating your cpu.
I had the same thing happen a couple of weeks ago after swapping cpu's (from E8400 to X3350).
Reinstalled the E8400 and all went fine.

Be sure to clear CMOS (both the blue and red jumper) before installing your cpu.

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Originally Posted by JGKC9AYC

I reset everything I could reset, reseated everything that could be reseated, but still no go.
I know the ram & the video card that are in there are good as they just came off my previous motherboard.
Ideas? Suggestions?
Thanks.

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Just because your ram worked in another motherboard does not mean it will automatically work in this one.

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Originally Posted by doakh

Just because your ram worked in another motherboard does not mean it will automatically work in this one.

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Perhaps, but it is on the DFI "approved" list for this motherboard.
Corsair XMS DDR2-800 2x1GB.

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Originally Posted by Praz

As you listed none of your components it's doubtful anyone can give a definitive answer. Sounds like it could be a common issue that's easy enough to solve though. The answer is in this thread. Too bad you really didn't have time to go through it.

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Intel E6300 w/Xigmatek HDT-S1283, XFX 7900GT, 2x1GB Corsair XMS DDR2-800, 2xSamsung SH-S203B, WD 640GB hdd, Corsair 520HX.
You're right...it really is too bad I don't have time to go through 190 pages, but working 2 jobs 6 days a week will do that to a person. :)

Try booting up with only one stick of ram in the closest slot to the cpu (green slot). If that doesn't work try the other stick by itself. I keep a cheap stick of ddr2 800 with low v requirement on hand just for booting up. It cost $8 an it comes in handy. If those sticks are D9, and you've been using them in another board, they might need a tad more juice than the board provides at default settings. Once you get into the bios, bump the vdimm to like 2.05v, restart, power down once you get back in bios, put both stick in and voila.

OK...I reseated the cpu, hooked it up outside the case (w/a different PSU) & it got to the post screen. I then reinstalled it back in the case (glad I invested in a case w/a removable mb tray!), turned it on & it did the same thing. I thought maybe the mounting screws were too tight, so I loosened them up a tad, restarted, same thing. Then I unhooked the PSU in the case (Corsair 520HX) & hooked up the 24 & 8 pin power w/a different PSU (BFG 800W), held down the reset, then the power button on the mb for 4 seconds, hit the power & it posted. I then hooked up the Corsair again, held down the reset & power for 4 seconds, hit the power button & it posted.
I'm formatting the hdd now & getting ready to install XP.
Dunno what was wrong, but it's working & that's all that matters, yes? :)
BTW, in regards to the memory, did I read the manual right in that if i'm installing 2 sticks I put them in DIMM 1 & 2 (green & yellow)? My other motherboards, when using dual channel, had 1 stick in DIMM 1 & the other in DIMM 3.
Thanks again for the help.

I had two days of trouble shooting with every combination of hardware I had and I have to say it was frustrating, but it paid off in the end as it has been the best MoBo I have ever used.

I am still impressed that I want nothing to do with any other motherboard untill Nahelem. :D

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Originally Posted by JGKC9AYC

BTW, in regards to the memory, did I read the manual right in that if i'm installing 2 sticks I put them in DIMM 1 & 2 (green & yellow)? My other motherboards, when using dual channel, had 1 stick in DIMM 1 & the other in DIMM 3.
Thanks again for the help.

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No, you did'nt. For DC operation you use both sticks in the green slots, or both sticks in the yellow slots.

Hi guys.
I have problems to buy good cooling for my C2D.
Witch cooler come in on the board : DFI P35 T2R LP UT.
I have about 40-50 €.
Give me 3-4 sample to buy.
On noobs polish forum nobody wants to help me . I want something to get in on this motherboard without any problems.

PS sorry for my english .

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BorysPL

Hi guys.
I have problems to buy good cooling for my C2D.
Witch cooler come in on the board : DFI P35 T2R LP UT.
I have about 40-50 €.
Give me 3-4 sample to buy.
On noobs polish forum nobody wants to help me . I want something to get in on this motherboard without any problems.

PS sorry for my english .

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thermalright ultra 120 extreme

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BorysPL

Hi guys.
I have problems to buy good cooling for my C2D.
Witch cooler come in on the board : DFI P35 T2R LP UT.
I have about 40-50 €.
Give me 3-4 sample to buy.
On noobs polish forum nobody wants to help me . I want something to get in on this motherboard without any problems.

PS sorry for my english .

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Welcome to Xtreme Systems :welcome:

Google air / water cooling roundup & see what you get.

Here's a very decent thread by AzraelDarkangel here at XS http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=106971

Air : Thermalright Ultra-120 Extreme

Water : D-TEK Fuzion v1 / 2

CN :)

Thx guys for xtreme professional :)
I watching many air cooling but be one warning - no compatible ;)
Noctua NH-U12F - this not better ? mayby no compatible?
Thermalright Ultra-120 Extreme - witch cooler 120mm ? NOCTUA ?SCYTHE?FANDER ?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BorysPL

Thx guys for xtreme professional :)
I watching many air cooling but be one warning - no compatible ;)
Noctua NH-U12F - this not better ? mayby no compatible?
Thermalright Ultra-120 Extreme - witch cooler 120mm ? NOCTUA ?SCYTHE?FANDER ?

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nothin better that 120 extreme

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Originally Posted by zsamz_

nothin better that 120 extreme

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I thought that the TRUE had verticle fit issues with the NB HS. I just did a P35 DK build and had to go horizontal.

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Originally Posted by turtletrax

I thought that the TRUE had verticle fit issues with the NB HS. I just did a P35 DK build and had to go horizontal.

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yup needs nb needs to be shaved a few mm

I like UT, but I dont like the color tone it have

the triditional orange and yellow is much better

Has anyone overclocked a E7200 with this board yet?? I have this same board and cpu but I was wondering others results with this same setup.

Thanks

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tetete

I like UT, but I dont like the color tone it have

the triditional orange and yellow is much better

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With how awesome this board is I think I could put up with Gigalol colors.... actually on second thought. :rofl:

True fit vertical on my UT. Just had to be sure to tighten down the heatpipe/NB assembly. I also run an Achilles on it. Had to trim off 2 bottom fins, but it's also cooler than lapped true.

Had some time and it is cool outside so did a bit of open window messing about.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6.../Q66004ghz.jpg

Will be working on stability and mem in the next bit.

Package is going out tomorrow Cantan. I will have tracking for you after work. I really appreciate your kind words in your last msg.

nice turtle i think i gonna take my board outa retirement

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Originally Posted by zsamz_

nice turtle i think i gonna take my board outa retirement

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I think it deserves it :up:

i recently bought this board (3-4 days) and today when i powered on my pc it shut down and it smelled like something was fried. so looking closely on the mainboard and i could see a fried chip there right next to the NB FAN connector. i had a nexus fan there (no pwm) ... fan is still working. but the fan connector is DEAD (Smart Guardian showing "000000000" rpm on Chipset Fan)
:(
you can see in the pictures below. now i really don't know, is it safe to keep this motherboard like this? (i dont mind the fan connector because i have a fan controller) or should i RMA it? do they cover this?:confused:

I'd be RMA'ing that as soon as possible. No point in risking a possible problem in the future, when it may be out of warranty.

Hey guys. Something odd going on here that hopefully someone can shed some light on. It has been many months since I bothered tweaking with the bios since I have it pretty much set where I want it for 24/7 use. I have had the 3/16 bios flashed since its release and have not changed it. I currently, and have always had my Vdimm in bios set to 2.00v. This has ALWAYS read between 1.89-1.90v in software readouts such as Everest. The past week or so I noticed the reading was up to 1.92v which I found odd. Just checking now it is reading 1.94v. It is clearly going up and I have no clue why. The second jump to 1.94 is what prompted me to hopefully get an answer on it. I understand it is only a software reading and should be taken as so but with months of it reading 1.90v, why is it now reading 1.92-1.94? What would cause this to happen. I am worried something may be wrong and at some point it may shoot like 2.5v through my ram and fry it without me even knowing.

Hopefully someone can shed some light. I am using latest Everest 4.50.1408.

Andrew, Got a link to the new Everest 1408 Beta (I have a valid license)?
Could it be caused by Everest software upgrades?

I agree, even though a difference of 2% is small it's weird if that is the only voltage that's increasing.

I'll do you one better, how is latest 4.50.1412?

http://www.lavalys.com/beta/everestu...px4lsk2qtn.zip

And yes It is weird. VTT, NB and Vcore have not budged at all but Vdimm has. I has actually hit 1.95v now? =(. Is there seperate chips that maintain seperate voltages per item on the board or does one chip do it all?

1412 has been update for the DDR3 UT board. It's still a work in progress as a couple of the voltages appear to be misreported.

Thanks for the reply Praz. Is the misreported voltages only for the DDR3 board or across all boards as a whole? I ask due to my misreported Vdimm, however it had done this before I even installed 1412 as I using 1408 when I first noticed it. I also went back to 1403 and same thing. Don't have a clue. So far that is the only issue and I am running memtest now to be sure things are still stable. I hope nothing comes worse of this with my Vdimm no longer being able to keep at its setting and it just keeps rising, rising, rising. My Ballistix are the original double sided ones and I am VERY LUCKY to have them still running as well as they are with how easily they seem to die. I would hate for them to be fried by high voltage when I didn't even set it myself to do that.

One idea I thought of is the temps have drastically risen with summer being here. Ambients are way up as is humidity. Is it plausible that perhaps the chip that controls the amount of Vdimm going to my sticks has become slightly unstable due to heat, or perhaps it is just the monitoring chip that is out of wack. If anyone of this has to do with heat period, I dunno.

I am not one to put a DMM to my board while running so unfortunately I can't check, but am wondering if there really is more Vdimm going to my board than I have set or if it is giving the same amount as always but it is only the reporting that is wrong.

Don't know about other boards. I did a quick run last night to verify everything was listed. On the DDR3 board reported VDIMM is 0.03 - 0.04 lower then what is reported by Smart Guardian and BIOS. I'm going to do actual voltage measurements tonight.

Ok thanks. I wish mine was lower, as instead it is higher. Higher = death to chips where as lower simply means instability. Please do share your findings on idle/load on Vdimm set in bios compared to what Everest is reporting.

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Originally Posted by Praz

Don't know about other boards. I did a quick run last night to verify everything was listed. On the DDR3 board reported VDIMM is 0.03 - 0.04 lower then what is reported by Smart Guardian and BIOS. I'm going to do actual voltage measurements tonight.

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Looking forward to the readings. I need to get my DMM out and stop looking at these softwares. Or at least calibrate my readings every time I update the apps.

I posted this in the info and support area, but I'll post it here too.

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So I broke down and bought a Prelude, but when I put it in the PCI slot it wasn't detected. The light turned on showing it had power, but it didn't show in the boot list of items, nor does windows detect it. The thought crossed my mind that I had gotten a dead card, so I tried another PCI sound card (old crappy one), and it too wasn't detected. I found an old PCI network card... not worky there too.

I have tried different combinations of enabled and disable options that could deal with the PCI bus, but nothing so far has allowed me to have anything detected on the PCI bus. My google-fu is failing me, as I cannot find anyone else with this problem. I may be missing something simple and stupid, but after an hour of rebooting, I'm not sure what is left for me to try.

If you have any idea on why I can't see the PCI devices, please help me out.

Thanks,
WoZZeR

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Did you try a different PCI slot? It sounds like you were determined to keep trying the same one. Perhaps that one port is unfortunately dead. Something definitely seems odd if nothing that you put in that slot gets recognized.

Are you on the latest bios?

I tried all 3 slots, I tried the latest stable and latest beta bios. The cards receive power, but are not seen.

Very odd. Did you try on a fresh format?

I had not tried on a fresh format, but what concerns me is that it's not shown on the PCI device list.

I am getting Random restarts for the past 5 days. I have replaced everything but the Video card, PS and the MB(DFI P35-T2RS ). It happens while I am surfing the net or playing a little TF2. I bought a new HD and did a complete reformat and it still did it. My gut tells me it is the New Enermax pro82+ 625w I bought. Have any of you had this issue with DFI P35-T2RS? I ahve included some pics. Maybe you can see somthing I can`t.
Thanks for your time
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o197/msarp/011.jpg


http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o197/msarp/009.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by msarp

I am getting Random restarts for the past 5 days. I have replaced everything but the Video card, PS and the MB(DFI P35-T2RS ). It happens while I am surfing the net or playing a little TF2. I bought a new HD and did a complete reformat and it still did it. My gut tells me it is the New Enermax pro82+ 625w I bought. Have any of you had this issue with DFI P35-T2RS? I ahve included some pics. Maybe you can see somthing I can`t.
Thanks for your time

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I think your "gut" feeling is right. Traditionaly Enermax psu's and DFI's have not played well together at all. A look at something else would be a good idea. OCZ or PCP+C would be a good place to start.

i just bought one yesterday. had some brief test.
now i can get core 0 stable with my old settings on p5k-premium, but core 1 fails after 2-5 mins everytime...
i have vtt=1.3v, cpu gtl ref=64 for both, and nb gtl ref=61. cpu is a 45nm e8400. 4.18g(465x9) at 1.376v in cpu-z, nb=1.41v

anyone have any suggestions? maybe play with the cpu gtl ref?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by haoster

i just bought one yesterday. had some brief test.
now i can get core 0 stable with my old settings on p5k-premium, but core 1 fails after 2-5 mins everytime...
i have vtt=1.3v, cpu gtl ref=64 for both, and nb gtl ref=61. cpu is a 45nm e8400. 4.18g(465x9) at 1.376v in cpu-z, nb=1.41v

anyone have any suggestions? maybe play with the cpu gtl ref?

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With an E8400 the board should do 465FSB without the need of adjusting GLTREF voltages.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Praz

With an E8400 the board should do 465FSB without the need of adjusting GLTREF voltages.

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i can boot up 600fsbx6, with 1.6v vnb...
but, 465-470, the 2nd core just wont be stable...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by cantankerous

Hey guys. Something odd going on here that hopefully someone can shed some light on. It has been many months since I bothered tweaking with the bios since I have it pretty much set where I want it for 24/7 use. I have had the 3/16 bios flashed since its release and have not changed it. I currently, and have always had my Vdimm in bios set to 2.00v. This has ALWAYS read between 1.89-1.90v in software readouts such as Everest. The past week or so I noticed the reading was up to 1.92v which I found odd. Just checking now it is reading 1.94v. It is clearly going up and I have no clue why. The second jump to 1.94 is what prompted me to hopefully get an answer on it. I understand it is only a software reading and should be taken as so but with months of it reading 1.90v, why is it now reading 1.92-1.94? What would cause this to happen. I am worried something may be wrong and at some point it may shoot like 2.5v through my ram and fry it without me even knowing.

Hopefully someone can shed some light. I am using latest Everest 4.50.1408.

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Yes I am quoting myself but I feel it is important with what I have to share.

I fully believe this is heat related now. For days it was quite hot and the voltage ranged anywhere from 1.92-1.94, sometimes hitting as high as 1.95v when under heavy use. This was all being monitored through Everest. With many different betas being released over the past few days I tried them all with the same results. Rebooting into the bios and checking voltages there showed similar results in the way the voltage was scaling.

This morning temps have really dropped outside. I opened my window and checking about 30 mins later I now noticed it was reading at 1.90v just as it should. I kept my eye on it for a good couple minutes and it never fluctuated. While Everest was reading 1.92v booting into the bios would show 1.98v if set to 2.00v. While I am reading 1.90v in Everest now I rebooted into the bios and it showed 1.96v which explains the scaling I mentioned above. .02v in Everest is .02v in bios. So now that I know it is heat related should I be overly concerned? It seems either the voltage regulators, or the sensor itself is having a hard time tracking tightly/accurately when running above a certain temperature. Whether this is something to be concerned about I don't know. Do you? Lastly I am wondering. Is it my RAM itself drawing more power if unstable due to heat or is the board itself throwing more voltage to my RAM due to the instability while under heat. Is it even throwing more voltage at all or is this just the sensor read out? Either way what on the board should be cooled when ambient temps are up to keep voltages and reading at what they should be. I have never noticed this in the 9 months I had this board until the very hot weather here last week. It is definitely ram related however as regardless of heat my Vcore, NB, VTT and PSU rails were all reading what they should and have been for previous months without falter. Just want to be sure I am maintaining my system as should so I have no premature deaths on my parts. System is running quite well so would like to do upgrades for the sakes of upgrades, not buying new parts to act as replacements. I am going to get some canned air and do a real good cleaning as I know it is quite dusty in my case. Shouldn't hurt even if it does no good.

Thanks for reading my long winded chatter.

Right upper corner of the board where the small silver heatsink is near the last memory slot. Try some air movement in that area. There is an additional FET on the backside of the board that because of ambient temperature may be heating up and causing thermal drift.

Gotcha. I had a look at my board after writing my last post and that wast he very area I figured would need the cooling. The silver sink gave it away. I figured since it was a ram issue that the problem must lie near the ram. I can't see the regulator for the ram being too far away from the dimms themselves.

Is it common for heat to cause voltage drifts to a component? I have never once heard of this on any build which have always lived in this room in my house which does get particularly hot. For whatever reason this board now is particularly sensitive to it when it comes to VDIMM. It could just be my personal board and not the DFI's as a whole. Is this something I should be worried about? Is it a risk for something to die? Something I should be worried about? I have an Antec Spot Cool over my ram now that was running at high, but recently down to low as I have been having issues with my ears lately and wanted to quiet down my systems racket. I will try and turn it back up and see if it helps.

Thanks again for the response.

should i trust the voltage reading in bios(1.287v for cpu, 2.07v for ram) or the one in cpuz, smartguardian and everest(1.31v for cpu, 2.03v for ram)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by haoster

should i trust the voltage reading in bios(1.287v for cpu, 2.07v for ram) or the one in cpuz, smartguardian and everest(1.31v for cpu, 2.03v for ram)

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no dont trust bios readin everest is better

Quote:

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Originally Posted by zsamz_

no dont trust bios readin everest is better

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so the 4 sticks in your sig running at 1200mhz at 2.05v is the reading in smartguardian and everest? more like 2.1-2.15v in bios?
i am scared to add more because the readings in bios are so high

Quote:

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Originally Posted by haoster

so the 4 sticks in your sig running at 1200mhz at 2.05v is the reading in smartguardian and everest? more like 2.1-2.15v in bios?
i am scared to add more because the readings in bios are so high

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i always talkin real volts dont look in bios readings everest in 99% acurate
the readings you see in everest actual might be -0.01
i always measure my volts with dmm

Hello guys,

Just wanted to see if you could achieve my goal/dream

Q6600 L737A 1.275 Vid
G.Skill 2 x 2 GB DDR2 800mhz

All I want to do is 9 x 400 and I would be a happy camper

If you guys could post/reccomed some settings with simular ram ( I know I am not the only one with this type of ram and cpu ) that would be great and I guess I could work from there.

ATM I have it at 8 x 400 and its been fine for couple of months now.

Hi guys, need some assistance, been out of the game for a month or so...
Have a 12/24 bios on my UT so can anyone tell me, i'm a bit lazy to dig through last 50 pages, any new bios that brings some improvement for 65nm cpu's? So far i've tracked 'till February or March and i've seen no need to update, seems like all these new bioses are meant to improve Wolfdales, so anyone can tell me if something from April/May/June is good for 65nm i would appreciate it.:up:

I found 3/17 MUCH better than 12/24 for stability. It has a good amount of new features to tweak as well. Been on 3/17 since first day of release and have zero issues whatsoever. 12/24 was good when it was out but 3/17 imo is a much better bios.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by cantankerous

I found 3/17 MUCH better than 12/24 for stability. It has a good amount of new features to tweak as well. Been on 3/17 since first day of release and have zero issues whatsoever. 12/24 was good when it was out but 3/17 imo is a much better bios.

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Thx for the tip man, will try it.:up:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by cantankerous

I found 3/17 MUCH better than 12/24 for stability. .... 12/24 was good when it was out but 3/17 imo is a much better bios.

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What are the differences in stability you have noticed with 3/17 and 65 nm CPU's? I thought that most of the updates since 12/24 were for 45 nm CPU's. Also will my BIOS profiles still be usable if I update? 12/24 seems fine to me and I'm not going to change unless there are some clear reasons.

Has anyone tried that new stuff, Auto Boost System?
http://www.muenster.de/~e30pics/Dateien/ABS.rar
Seems i can't figure out how to make a bank profile...:confused:

Anybody here with a QX9650? what VTT's are usually required above 4ghz and 400fsb. thanks.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mad_skills

Has anyone tried that new stuff, Auto Boost System?
http://www.muenster.de/~e30pics/Dateien/ABS.rar
Seems i can't figure out how to make a bank profile...:confused:

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I didn't even know it was going to be implemented for the P35. Why isn't there news about this all over DFI club? Are you using some kind of beta or something?

With the exception of the F1 key the software works on all the P35, X38, X48 and P45 boards.

I flashed to the 3/17? bios, and now everytime i turn the system on, the motherboard speaker kind of chirps at me...more like a growl. it's really freaking weird, but why the hell does this happen?

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g1...965045171M.jpg

Is it really true that this particular QX9650 (ES) is a voltage hog?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by saint-francis

I didn't even know it was going to be implemented for the P35. Why isn't there news about this all over DFI club? Are you using some kind of beta or something?

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Not a beta, some guy got it with a LanParty Dark P45 T2RS and uploaded it, so i wandered if anyone has tried it already.

http://www.images.clunk.org.uk/revie...t2rs/ABS/2.jpg

Quote:

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We are honored to present the ABS (Auto Boost System) technology to our dear friends. ABS system is the first auto CPU upgrade technology, just press a hotkey while you're turning on your PC with our DFI exclusive Genius BIOS, it's so easy and user friendly to over-clock your CPU and get the best performance from the start. ABS is completely BIOS-based technology especially designed for easy and auto boosting, user can get faster and steadier system without any pain. ABS technology is patent pending now. We will do our best to protect all our customers' right and promise to provide the best service to the buyers purchased our original legal products through our assigned channels.

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Praz

I would really appreaciate if you could post one of the reference bios settings that you did before, that is for a bios that uses fsb in excess of 525. I know you ried it...like many of us
I have the same motherboard, may bios and use april batch 8400 cpu. Most imorportant to me are gtl, bios and ,mem valuse. Thanks for any advice.:)

e8400
p35 t2r
4gb gskill 8500

Quote:

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Originally Posted by vortex240

Praz

I would really appreaciate if you could post one of the reference bios settings that you did before, that is for a bios that uses fsb in excess of 525. I know you ried it...like many of us
I have the same motherboard, may bios and use april batch 8400 cpu. Most imorportant to me are gtl, bios and ,mem valuse. Thanks for any advice.:)

e8400
p35 t2r
4gb gskill 8500

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This is the only thing I could find with settings listed. But it's not an E8400 CPU.




http://www.fileden.com/files/2007/4/...440/549fsb.jpg



http://www.fileden.com/files/2007/4/28/1027440/main.jpg



http://www.fileden.com/files/2007/4/28/1027440/dram.jpg



http://www.fileden.com/files/2007/4/...40/voltage.jpg

@praz

what is a good starting point for GTL settings for 45nm quads?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Volkswagen

Hello guys,

Just wanted to see if you could achieve my goal/dream

Q6600 L737A 1.275 Vid
G.Skill 2 x 2 GB DDR2 800mhz

All I want to do is 9 x 400 and I would be a happy camper

If you guys could post/reccomed some settings with simular ram ( I know I am not the only one with this type of ram and cpu ) that would be great and I guess I could work from there.

ATM I have it at 8 x 400 and its been fine for couple of months now.

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Anyone Guys.....Just something like a base to work off?

Praz- your input would be greatly apperciated to the question above this post :up:

Check this out first:
Quad Core OC Database.
:up:

no info on GTL's for the 45nm parts. huhuhu

i just downclocked my 8400 from 4.2g to 4g, because the hot summer weather.
with less volts to vcore, vnb, i can get it stable for prime95 5 hours or so. also occt ram, cpu and mix are all stable.
but once i play world of warcraft, it randomly crashes between 1-2 hours... real temp shows both core are at 40c when running the game...so i guess its not an overheat issues...
anyone have any suggestions?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by fireice2

no info on GTL's for the 45nm parts. huhuhu

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Haven’t had the privilege to own a 45nm quad yet but the 45nm dual core's like 60 ish with maybe 5 clicks either way.

I've also found my board likes/needs the NB GTL to be adjusted independently of the CPU GTL's as I raise NB voltage to stop lockups etc. I first noticed this strange NB GTL behaviour when shooting for high FSB because the board would not boot over about 1.6v NB.

For example my rig will run my E8500 @ 4GHz 1.25v vcore 1.45v NB with no GTL tuning, 4.2GHz I need 1.28V vcore 1.53v NB 60,60,60 & 4.3GHz 1.34v vcore 1.57v NB 60,60,69.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by fireice2

no info on GTL's for the 45nm parts. huhuhu

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Something between 110/110/110 and 120/120/120 is a good starting point for 45nm Quads.

Something like this VID Control 1.25V and VTT voltage around 1.6V (1.59x) then this can be used as a starting point
CPU GTL 1/2 Volt: 115
CPU GTL 0/3 Volt: 114
North Bridge GTL Volt: 115
Jupiler got it.:up:...Also, there is some data about this on techpowerup forums.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mad_skills

Something like this VID Control 1.25V and VTT voltage around 1.6V (1.59x) then this can be used as a starting point
CPU GTL 1/2 Volt: 115
CPU GTL 0/3 Volt: 114
North Bridge GTL Volt: 115
Jupiler got it.:up:...Also, there is some data about this on techpowerup forums.

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I thought anything over 1.45v vtt killed 45nm quads

Quote:

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Originally Posted by The Nemesis

I thought anything over 1.45v vtt killed 45nm quads

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Check it out if you don't believe me :) :
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...70&postcount=1

Quote:

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Originally Posted by seraphi

Voltage Setting->
CPU VID Control: 1.25
CPU VID Spedial Add: Auto
DRAM Voltage Control: 2.12
SB Core/CPU PLL Volage: 1.51
NB Core Voltage: 1.617
CPU VTT Voltage: 1.598
Vcore Droop Control: Disabled
Clockgen Voltage Control: 3.45
GTL + Buffers Strength: Strong
Host Slew Rate: Weak
GTL Ref Voltage Control: Enabled
CPU GTL 1/2 Ref Volt: 115
CPU GTL 0/3 Ref Volt: 115
North Bridge GTL Ref Volt: 115

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by mad_skills

Check it out if you don't believe me :) :
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...70&postcount=1

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I believe it will work, I just remember this article.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by The Nemesis

I thought anything over 1.45v vtt killed 45nm quads

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It does, and with Quads, even quicker than dual cores.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mad_skills

Check it out if you don't believe me :) :
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...70&postcount=1

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With all due respect mad-skills, because i know they arn't your settings. That list of bios settings is just about the most thoughtless list i have seen. Anyone that has been around 45nm's for any length of time knows that just throwing voltage at it does not work. I will lay odds on, that clock was never stable, and the chip is now useless if it was run for any length of time anyway.

^^^^^^ About sums that up.