the thermochill will work better on low flow fans for some ear saving quiet, but with over 80ish cfm fans the GTX's start to pull away in temps b/c of their higher fin density. keep in mind the thermochill is also much thicker.
Printable View
the thermochill will work better on low flow fans for some ear saving quiet, but with over 80ish cfm fans the GTX's start to pull away in temps b/c of their higher fin density. keep in mind the thermochill is also much thicker.
Is it cool to stack a set of performance rads of equal type to use in a dual push/pull fan configuration? I thought about adding a 2nd in front of origional w/ another set of fans, sort of a water version of ThermalRight's iFX-14 in dual fan manner. Anotherwards, do you guys think it will at least be better then just adding 1 single 120 rad elsewhere in system on its own?
well if you could seperate them in a different part of the loop and not have the heated air blowing thru the second rad.
accidental double post, please delete!
What I was noticing is that this rad I have now does exactly this. It is a dual pass, dual row. It passes once as a pre-cool pass, then again on fron section for final cool. So if I was to do this again but with the sepperated cores, do you think it can work OK? I mean if I run 1st time as pre-cool through the rear core and then up front to the 2nd core set so the heat coming from front to rear is half as warm now.
Just an idea. It's not a big deal, but I was hoping to not have to cut anymore holes in my new case (DangerDan Water Box Plus) and also had a molded radiator grill assembly to mock up in front to look like a big Peterbuilt tractor or something.including.
1, nice double post :p. and yes this would add some cooling ability because the air really only warms up 1-2 C but you would have better temps if you could have each rad breath clean air.
Who's using the Eheim HPPS i - 12v DC Industrial Long-Life, High Power Pump coming from a D5 (variable spd model) to compare it to? Is it quieter and more powerfull for the price and adjustable for spd via voltage control? Will it offer a mobo header for FAN RPM monitoring?
Here's the thing. I got this for the ability to control spd during OC and back to low or medium for daily use, but notice it takes a bit to get going on some resumes from S3 on this mobo (I only had old 1205 on my previous water rig). It is not the quietest as I was hoping so if I can get some feedback on the one Eheim HPPS i, I may switch over soon. I notice a lot of peepz using them encased in water with resivor. I imagine this greatly helped with high frequency noises.
If speed is fixed on the Eheim HPPS i, is lowering preasure under idle or light load worth it or just run full all the time. I was concerned with water flowing too fast through Rads to be cooled completely under heavy load. Or should I just get large resivor and integrate pump inside?
Nuckin_Futs, make a new thread since your questions doesn't relate to the Maximus Formula here !!
so doing some updates I have
the second ek waterblock for my 2900xt
I also have a pic of my setup with the second 2900xt in the system doing testing to make sure everything works before setting up full water with the new card and a second pump to get flow up due to all the blocks
current 3d mark 06 Here 19008 stock speed for both core and mem
Got a bit of a temp issue guys, could use some advice. System is brand new, first boot yesterday. Here are the specs:
Asus Maximus Formula, e8400, 4 GB G-Skill PC2 8500 RAM, 8800GTS video, PC Power and Cooling 750 PSU, Gigabyte Aurora 3d case. Running XP Pro SP2. All CPU/RAM related bios settings unchanged from what the bios (0907) picked.
Cooling is self built. mostly water, MCP655 pump, PA 120.3 rad (mounted on back of case with 3 medium speed Yates pulling), D-Tek Fuzion CPU block (with washer only), DD Ione video block, EK NB-S-Max northbridge block, XSPC 5 1/4 bay reservoir (components are in that order in loop). Fluid is distilled water with a few drops of Petra's nuke, TIM is MX-2. All tubing is 1/2" ID, 3/4" OD. South bridge is air cooled with Thermalright HR-05 IFX with Sythe fan, mosfets with Thermalright HR-09 Type 2 sinks, RAM is cooled by a Corsair Dominator.
Using latest version of CoreTemp my core 0 is reading 42c, core 1 is 45c at idle. TJ Max is showing as 105c. VID is showing 1.1125. I'm going to get Everest tonight but I don't expect it to show much different.
Water flow seems to be good, loop is tight. The only thing I can think to try is reseating the CPU water block, maybe going back to AS-5, but I feel like like I got it seated properly. Part of the problem could be that case inbound airflow is not great, but again, its not horrible, one 120mm fan in, 2 120mm fan out.
Any additional ideas would be great. Could it be a bios setting, CPU voltage maybe? What should it be for running at stock speed? Thanks for any advice!
What are some refference scores for the E6750 to 3.8GHz and 4GHz on this mobo? As soon as I recover my lost data for my air comps, I will post them.
Also, who has removed the X38 IHS to try to improve on more cooling effort with any luck? Does it make a noticable difference? I should hope so as I see too many peeps do it to the AMD CPU's so it must equal something.
My RMA is home, so I will be back on the project to get the pump and rad configured in a new case.
I found that with passive cooling my SB now runs hotter than the NB.
I have now ordered SB and mosfet coolers from EK for my board.
Well this board will be in a btx case so there would be a 120mm fan right above the SB :shrug: .
I would jusr swap out for copper SB cooler or ThermalRight and I find the run nice and cool on medium OC to 500FSB w/ 1.104v and 1.58v on SB and SB 1.5. If all you did was remove the ROG cover, then at least add a 40mm mini fan to help out if keeping ASUS heatpipe system. Cause a lot of the generated heat back flows from NB makeing the SB warmer then need be.
Well I just wanted to detach the stock heatsink from the heat pipe. That way its low enough as to not cause any problems with my 9800gx2. I was planning on using my spare hr05 on the NB, but if what i have in mind isnt possible or it'll hurt my sb temps then i'll just use the stock board cooling throughout.
So I understand correctly, are you desoldering the heatpipe off the NB to SB link from the SB aluminum sink underneath the ROG badge? If so are you them removing the NB water block unit to run your own? Otherwise, the pipe runs so low to the board, it will clear just about any PCI card in its path. Removing only the badge is OK to especially if you plan to air cool w/ thin 40x10mm fan.
If so, just make sure you can solder it back in case of RMA. Thats wgy I would just use a copper aftermarket which is far better then the stock off pipe.
My SB is cooled by a Enzotech low-profile copper heatsink and with the 120mm fan blowing across the bottom, the temp never rise above 30C so it's great for me. Later, if by tweaking the overclock to the max, the SB get hot, I still have the EK NB/SB Asus 3 block I can slap on the board (I just need to buy extra tubing as i ran out of R-3400 for my 2 loops).
I suggest you keep the heatpipe assembly intact so you can return the board for warranty if it fail later. If you damage the heatpipe assembly, the warranty is void ;)
Hello tweakers, this is my first post and wanna say HI to everybody.
After I ordered a whole DangerDen setup ive found this forum :eek:
And after I read all the posts, I havent see nobody with a dangerden
setup? Is it really that bad or? Because my DD setup is already shipped
and i cant cancel it :( Is there really nobody using a MC-TDX and a DD
X38 chipset cooler?
safan80, I used 3M thermal tape : http://www.ncix.com/products/index.p...facture=Others
It's the right size for the SB core so just peel a side, stick on the SB, peel the other side then press the Enzotech on it for 15-20 seconds. Make sure to clean the surface thoroughly with isoprophyl alcohol.