What are your ambients?Quote:
Originally Posted by dogin
Without that there's no context to your temps:)
Sounds like you've got some nice temps though!
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What are your ambients?Quote:
Originally Posted by dogin
Without that there's no context to your temps:)
Sounds like you've got some nice temps though!
Wow guy's! I have been spending all my time in the videocard section, and checking various reviews....
Great posts have been made here.... :up:
Keep up the fine job! ;)
Nice system too Zlojack! :cool:
Thanks! Did you finally score your GX2?Quote:
Originally Posted by Talonman
I will give all details when finish my OC'g and run the tests. A little short on time right now. Here are pics of finished system. The purple fluid comes out red with the flash, but you can see spots of real color in tubes. Still have to tighten PS wire bundle which runs out back behind mobo and comes back in under reservoir mount. Still have UV lights to install. Notice paranoia with drip tray. Putting a drain tube to an empty reservoir so if do get a leak it won't run on the floor (really to statisfy wife's concerns). Switch to a PCP&C 860W PS to give me more room with the fluid components. Also got the front window in so can see the windowed Raptors spinning.Quote:
Originally Posted by zlojack
[IMG]http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/g...78/IM0000J.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/g...78/IM0000F.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/g...78/IM0000C.jpg[/IMG]
Looking good.
Gotta keep the wife happy :D
Well, couldn't find anything in my spare parts to use as a NB backplate so I'm down to 2 options; fabricate one out of bar stock or go without. The widest bar stock I could get locally was 1.5". That should be real close but I would have preferred just a tad wider. I'll give it a try and see if it will work. If not I might be able to do a two-piece backplate...
I really want to use a plate, going without is not optimum.
Still waiting for the 1st, I think that is when the OC'ed GX2's get released.Quote:
Originally Posted by zlojack
I just gotta get one of thoes babies. :D
That's only a few days! With your legendary and proven patience it'll be a breeze :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Talonman
I used the plate that came with the Maximus. See my post here:Quote:
Originally Posted by wreckwriter
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...postcount=1059
http://ks034g.bay.livefilestore.com/...0a4VpKQ/06.jpg
http://ks034g.bay.livefilestore.com/...WTyGMsA/07.jpg
http://ks034g.bay.livefilestore.com/...TJiGf1A/08.jpg
You can easily push out the bolts with plyers, and widen the holes with a drill so that you can use the rubber washers that come with the Maximus and the NB hardware to mount your NB safely.
http://ks034g.bay.livefilestore.com/...0water%203.jpg
http://ks034g.bay.livefilestore.com/...er%20board.jpg
http://ks034g.bay.livefilestore.com/...%20closed1.jpg
http://ks034g.bay.livefilestore.com/...er%20open1.jpg
http://ks034g.bay.livefilestore.com/...er%20open2.jpg
I thought about that, it's the easiest and best way to go but my board has never been fired up. Should it prove DOA I'll have no RMA option if I've made the plate "unstock".Quote:
Originally Posted by deepcover
I found a piece of aluminum just a few minutes ago that will be big enough. Not quite as beefy as the stock plate but beefy enough that I can't bend it by hand. I have nylon washers so a few holes and a bit of filing and I should be golden.
In the matter of the NB i have to say that the one from MIPS require no modification so the original backplate can be used.
No problem what so ever.
http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/1083/pict0149px1.jpg
By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-02-20
With the EK NB S-Max, do I expect the original screws with the original backplate to be too short ? If yes, what is the threading size of the original backplate holes ?
Sharp looking rig... :up: :clap:Quote:
Originally Posted by deepcover
The originals are about 1/3 the length of the ones that came with the EK block. They are also smaller diameter. Since both are likely metric I have no clue what size they are. The EK screws appear close in size to a U.S. #4, the originals are truly tiny.Quote:
Originally Posted by Xilikon
Got mine lit up now!
[IMG]http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/g...8/IM000241.jpg[/IMG]
http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/g...8/IM000242.jpg
Now this is dark gaming with lights out!!!
Another looker.. Good job dogin! :cool: :up:
Thanks Talonman and just to think your thread started me on this journey and everyone else on this thread was a big help (a special thanks to Malik too and although I didn't come close to his overall look, his projects inspired me)Quote:
Originally Posted by Talonman
NB 35C on load (was 57C or slightly higher on air) E6850 (@ 3.6Ghz right now) ambient 25.6C, but think with the ram cranked to 1200Hz not too bad of temps
hey guys, for installing the NB block, the order of washers and nuts is not clear on instructions. Where does the nut go? Under the motherboard it forces things to stick out too far, on top of motherboard it would seem it would damage some PCB stuff. Did you guys use the nuts at all?
The answer from EK is that it goes on top of the board. I stacked a couple nylon washers and didn't crank it down very hard.Quote:
Originally Posted by wreckwriter
Forgive me if it got answered weeks or months ago, but I am doing my best on bad eyes to read the entire post as much as I can.
Picking new Waterblock! I had my heart set on the Swiftech Apogee™ GTX CPU Waterblock/Copper Top Combo (dont have to have the copper top up front), but it has gone up in price since I last put together my build list. So if I do choose another I had in mind the D-TEK FuZion Universal CPU Waterblock EnzoTech SCW-1 Sapphire Extreme Performance CPU Water Block.
Can anybody share their experiences with these or some test review on my 2nd choices.
Also, I'm willing to stay single loop for the most part, but I am incorperating 1/4" RAM & HDD cooling next and figure I must go 2nd loop and maybe 2nd smaller rad to help out.
Building with DangerDan Water Box w/ Black Ice GTX240 (2x 120mm Syth S-Flex) & DD12V-D5 Pump Variable Speed, all on 1/2" with compression fittings. Using ASUS Fusion Block for today but aquiring Swiftech MCW30 Chipset Cooler for AMD and Intel (3/8" and 1/2")
I also plan to add meters and some other parts that may be limited to 3/8". Wich is the best method to step these up without looking too sloppy?
Thanz in advance!!!
first maximus formula wc'ing steps...
http://img182.imageshack.us/img182/9...3477vz7.th.jpg http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/4...3478nb1.th.jpg http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/2...3479bn7.th.jpg
Can't answer most of this but can tell you that if you go with D-Tek Fuzion block you find that the fittings are so close together that not only will compression fittings be unlikely to fit but if you use thick-wall tubing you have a time even getting hose clamps on both fittings. Yes, it can be done but its tight. I would think compression fittings won't fit. Everything I hear says its a great block, I chose it myself, but it is tight with 3/4 OD tubing. My EK NS-S-Max northbridge block presented the same challenge. Using Herbie clips or anything thicker than a hose clamp is not possible on either of these blocks.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nuckin_Futs
I would skip RAM and drive water-cooling were it me; probably the meters too. The main thing I've learned is to keep the loop as uncluttered and simple as possible.
Hope this helped you.
Well the thing is, I use currently, Ballistics Tracers at 1200 on 2.28v on air w/ ThermalRight HR-07's but needs lots of air to keep cool. I want to place my new DD Water Box on my desk and would like to air for quietness at idle or surfing the net. For now it will sit in my livingroom on a media center glass shelf and needs , or should be quiet during movie and gaming as can be for an OC'd system.Quote:
Originally Posted by wreckwriter
I'm willing to try the OCZ Reaper on water if anybdy has anything good to say about them to 1200MHz. I'm more then willing to add a sepperate 1/4" circut just for RAM and HDD's ( I use 2 500G and 4 74GB Raptors so heat is an issues (on drives) unless I crank up fans on case, again taking away from what I moved to water for. (noise).
Update, I am leaning towadr the Swiffy GTX for now and add coppertop later. Who has went from aluminum to copper on the GTX to comment on results. I admit, I may get it anyways cuase I like copper. I have to mention, that I have been out of the water game for a few years, still on DD RBX for AMD and older Intel P4. So I am wondering how much improvement has come from the 3 big new ones I mentioned, and more importantly, how the fact that the Swiffy GTX being on an offset inlet effects it over the models that jet to center. Is it a big difference, directed at anybody who used both.
Some new pics of my now watercooled Maximus Formula :
Naked :
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...n/DSCF1398.jpg
The heatpipe assembly (I removed it with a hairdryer for 20-30 seconds then wiggling till it popped off) :
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...n/DSCF1399.jpg
I now understand why we can't use the stock backplate threading, it's so small !! Since I didn't want to void the warranty of the motherboard by modding the stock backplate, I used some piece out of the decapitated WaveMaster to make a thicker backplate by using the NB holes as reference :
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...n/DSCF1400.jpg
Stock under the new custom (to check if holes is aligned correctly) :
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...n/DSCF1401.jpg
To avoid touching the components on the backside, I used a few washers stacked and electrical tape to cover the surface :
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...n/DSCF1420.jpg
Installed on the motherboard :
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...n/DSCF1421.jpg
Mosfets installed (I had to grind off a bump out of one since I didn't buy the Mosfet 3a version. It's not a problem since it's just 1 bump to grind off) :
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...n/DSCF1422.jpg
Picture with all the aftermarket blocks and heastsink installed :
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...n/DSCF1423.jpg
I will report back tomorrow with the NB/SB temps so I can add mine in the list :)
I already have the Black Ice GTX240 as primary Rad but wanted to know about adding a 2nd one and if so what one would be the better of the two if I get the ThermoChill PA120.2 2x120mm High Performance Radiator. I didnt get it yet, so how does it compare to the one I already have? Is anybody building true copper flat rod and finned care on brass tanked units.
I'm just asking cause it's been so long since my old Cadillac 8"x13" modded heater core of brass and copper. But it worked great for 5yrs now.
UPDATE: Turns out my current rad is of copper finned.