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i don´t like this t-lines:stick: , they simply don´t look as good as a tank:(Quote:
Originally Posted by creidiki
and 1/2 kilo more or less doesn´t matter:p:
but where to put my tank, i thought between motherboard and drive-bay but that would be a bit sticky there:confused:
Could just get the Alphacool Res for the DDC, that would give you the same performance increase as using the top barb for inlet...
#1163 Nope, using the top mouting hole is the best :)
http://h2okoeling.dk/?site=show&id=379&s=13
http://h2okoeling.dk/?site=show&id=379
/Thomas
Well, there u go. And the Plus is even better than the Pro, no? If i had cash to spare, id buy one just to see how good it is...
DDC Plus/Ultra/Rev2 is the best :)
Pro is just the normal version with the plexitop...
http://coolercasesuk.co.uk/showthread.php?t=15
Actually the test I linked to before shows that when you are using the front hole as inlet on the DDC Pro it's performance DECREASE compared to the normal version :)
/Thomas
hey homie, can i see more pics of how you ended up mounting it?Quote:
Originally Posted by Budwise
and what about contact? the cpu shim isnt getting in yer way?
wow dude, i cant believe im seeing what my case will look like. i just bought a 120.3..... i have the silver classic v1000.... i am about to make a tinted window (and mesh lower area).... i did mod my sunbeam fan controller into a front panel....Quote:
Originally Posted by jopers1986
just wow. well at least i know it looks GREAT! thanks! :toast:
mime is a ddc pro-ultra:rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomas FJ
the ultra gives you another 180 l/h more with optimal tubing
I wasn't commenting your setup directly ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by generics_user
/Thomas
Well, thats nice then, START USING THE TOP BARB! ;p
Btw, l/h doesent really matter v much, its max head that matters.
but litres are the only thing wich stay in this data-sheet what i had, have got no flow-meter hereQuote:
Originally Posted by creidiki
PS: i´ll start it using when i put a stainless steel plate onto top and a triple-rad inside this case;)
@i saw it later cut i was too lazy to edit my posting
its good that you dont have a flow-meter. sub-1000$ flowmeters kill your flow.
hahahahahah! :clap:Quote:
Originally Posted by creidiki
's not really that funny, even the swissflow - the best of the "cheap" flowmeters - will kill 16ft of head at 2gpm :/
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...8&postcount=73
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hu1kamania
Wow, that looks a lot like my PC :P
Did you copy from me? lol
you can check mine on my sig below
Nice job :up:
Only difference is that my case is smaller, and the tubeings are thinner (1/2")
What a coincidence, Im also getting the same Saitek Red Special Edition keyboard in a few days.
A long time ago I had a Red Deck keybard, but I RMAed it because it was having some issues. When I holded several keys in a series, others would stop working :rolleyes: They said it was unlucky to get a keyboard with a bad driver and that the newer keyboards wouldnt have this problem.
Im also probably going to take off my cr@#$y red CCFL cover and wrap the bulb with red candy wrapping paper so it looks more red. :D
Im thinking about adding the following to my PC:
- Red Saytek keybard $50
- x1900xtx $450 (There was a offer like this in NewEgg. Ill be hunting for another one)
- Maze4 block $50
- New 1/2" tubeing ~$20
- 2x1Gb of a nice, OCable DDR500 Cas 3 RAM for ~$200
- Iwaki MD20RLZ $180 (If I can pull out the money afther all the above :p: )
Quote:
Originally Posted by creidiki
i´ve always been a bit skeptic about these fms:)
but when i get 80 euros i´ll buy a t-balancer KTC|edition with some inlines, then i can read out my watertemp the first time:rolleyes:
i also can skip the crappy smartguardian fan-regulation with that thing
i´ve got one more question:
which is the best cooler for an x1800 (gto, when it is avaiable)
i´m thinking of getting a 2nd cpu-cooler and drill out the mounting, then it would fit onto graphics cards (mounting will look so, only newer cooler rev. with finer canals and a better looking top (looks like this internally)
are there any other watercoolers wich are as flat as this one and performs better?
i only know core-temp of my opty 170 which stay at 31 degree under full load, i am too poor for a water-sensor:(
Ive got a t-balancer. I cut a thin slit into some tubing and slid in a thin thermal probe. I get H2O temps on samurize now ^^"
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...ad.php?t=92628
Do you mean waterblock? MCW60 or MP-1. That doesent look like it has the power to cool an X1800.
hmm if it has the power to keep a opty 170 @ 2.6 gig /1.45 volts at 32 ° under full load it should have enough for an x 1800 won´t you think?Quote:
Originally Posted by creidiki
it´s not very vood visible on this images but it has a lot of fins (hmm i´ll make some pics when i get it out but it´s as powerful as a nexxos xp and has nearly no flow reduction (well it´s nearly the most powerful cooler which is produced in europe:))
i like that sensor inside this tube :D
Ah, it looks flat from here. Well, if you can mod it so it fits, i guess itll work well. :)
it is pretty flat about 1.5 cm but the cooling-space is huge due to it´s 46 parallel fins that´s why i want to use it on graphics-cards, with 90 ° fittings it will only take 1 extra slot;)Quote:
Originally Posted by creidiki
try to put those cables into your drive-bay;)
Which cables?--the ones at the top by the PSU?... no room in drive bays.. all filled up ;)
And besides, they would be long enough to be able to stay in there I think... but might give it a try...
I got that same case :D
I too need to work on my wiring >_<
But I plan to do that next month when I change out my water.
PhanTom :
What temps are you getting with your setup?
I have the Nexxxos XP bold, along with the GP2X-A and HTF2X rad, board is the Expert too, with an X2 3800+ at 2850Mhz, 1.392V.
Jupiler>well, I am currently at 2800 (vcore 1.475) with my opty170, idle temp is 24-26, full dual load temp is 37-39