I did the recommended way of flash you said, and now it has the double boot issue. The only way I can get into windows now is if I boot via the bios. Not a cold boot.
I did the recommended way of flash you said, and now it has the double boot issue. The only way I can get into windows now is if I boot via the bios. Not a cold boot.
Very strange. Maybe the board has developed a fault then as UEFIs 1.6A through 1.64A deffinately don't have the spread spectrum double POST bug.
I went back to defaults, and haven't had the problem since. So maybe it is cpu related. Just doesn't make sense. I had it running at 4.8 all afternoon playing games, and running prime. Now the best oc I can manage without any of those bugs so far seems to be 4.3 :( Should I take my chances with another chip?
It would seem the logical step as you haven't had any problems @ stock. It may be worth testing your memory as well with HCI memtest.
I'm just wondering... am I gonna notice a difference between this cpu running at 4.3 from my last chip that did 4.8? Probably not. The only kicker is that my previous system was an X58 set up using an i7 920 running @ 3.8. Not really worth the upgrade, if I look at it that way. :(
New 1155 systems are storming fast, but theres no way you should be happy with 4.3GHz even a "locked" 2500 could do better than that.
The new beta bios for the fatal1ty board fixes the bug of oveclocked cpu reverting to stock clocks when disabling all the power saving features, ie speedstep, etc when it enters windows.
Ok, to explain the situation I am in now. My system will power up fine at stock settings, and up to 4.3 oc no problems. Sleep mode even functions noramally. Here's where I am kinda confused, I can go into the bios and set it to 4.8 oc, with 1.4v, using offset and level 3, save and exit, and it will boot into windows no problem. It will hold up through 2 hours of Prime, and a long session of C.O.D. The problem is, if I shut it down, then power up again later, all I get is a blinking cursor. If I reboot, enter bios, then click save and exit, it will boot into windows no problem. So, is this a cpu issue or mobo issue? Just want to know, cuz I am planning on exchanging something, either mobo, or processor. Thanks for the help.
probably is the Cpu. Got the same problem here @48multi
try 49 how is it doing. Sometimes there's faulty multi that yyou should skip!
Internal PLL Overvoltage is Enabled ?
2 hours of prime don't make a stable system.
These sandys are peculiar things - especially with the offset voltage. Most of the time the CPU isn't getting pushed (or if it is your settings maybe stealth down clocking).
So what appears 'good' to you may be falling way short after 2 hours prime? and some gaming.
Ideally run IBT with AVX - just to check your Gflops - not stability.
Then Prime 95 blend (lastest version) on your final settings for at least 12 hours.
BTW all of the above should be done at stock mem timing at 1333 or 1600 if your memory supports that.
IF your overclock your memory, then you need to run Prime 95 large FFTs with your final overclock to check that too.
Sorry but this is OC'ing 101.
You've killed 1 cpu already.. just saying.
1.70 Extreme4.
Quote:
Improve mouse movement in BIOS setup.
I'm little disappointed...
HCI memtest is far superior for testing memory.
Thats it? Improve mouse movent in the UEFI? Disapointing. 1.64 > 1.70 is a big jump just for a mouse movement tweak..... Seems more likely 1.7 has all of the fixes of the betas as well, but somebody will need to test it to verify that.
If the CPU were busted, it wouldn't boot at all.
it has NOTHING to do with him not running prime for 2 hours. I can make prime crash in the first MINUTE, from low vcore, but my CPU boots *every* time. The fact that he can enter windows and game for hours tells me that the CPU is working perfectly. These things either work, or they don't work.
The blinking cursor you have is a symptom that others have when PLL overvoltage either needs to be enabled, or when you're outside of the frequency range where PLL overvoltage works. It sounds to me like your board is having issues setting PLL overvoltage on a cold boot. Have you tried toggling this setting, and seeing what happens if you enable it, or if you disable it, and then try to cold boot?
Of course there are other reasons for a hanging cursor like that also...
1.70 loaded.
you guys are screwin around with too many settings to achieve ur oc rating....i have 1.61 bios, no dual boot,i have minimal settings tweaked to get to 5 ghz...set everything back to default uefi settings and turbo up to 4.6 and see if its stable...if not something is wrong
I have been overclocking for years, and have never killed a cpu. This is a first. Even this one, I wasn't even pushing to far. 4.8 @ 1.36v, with PLL disabled. I don't think is much at all. As for being stable cuz I can play games and run prime, all I meant by that, was that the settings that I had are letting me do my everyday things with no problems. The memory I have runs at 2133 mhz, and has not been touched, just running it's default settings. My point is that I think I just have a bad overclocking chip.
Yes, I have tried switching between PLL enabled and disabled. Anything over 43X requires PLL in order to get me passed the blinking cursor, but only when I boot to windows via the bios. Cold boot with anything over 43X gives the blinking cursor regardless what the settings are.
so u had one bad chip already? and now problems with this one also after u replaced the bad one? if this is true u could have a bad board....ur power supply is a good one i take it?
And what voltage are you having to feed the memory & memory controller to run at 2133?
There is little to be gained running the memory past 1600 - what ever they are rated at it or not. I am thinking that this is your main issue. High rated and 'juiced' memory with a moderate overclock.
Personally I'd rather have looser memory and higher cpu overclock.
That's what I am trying to get to the bottom of. I know, ever since I got the B3 replacement, things didn't seem as smooth as the previous version. But the system did seem to run ok for the last 2 months. No signs of overheating or anything. Just went to turn the computer on one morning and it wouldn't post. I popped out the cpu, and noticed a little "burn mark" on the bottom of the chip which I was able to rub off. Tried it on another board, and it wouldn't work. I am using a 750W PC Power & Cooling power supply.
^^man if that's the case I feel for you. Sound like you've got a defective board. I'd be submitting a RMA asap and claiming for the 2 cpus its bummed.