Home made UV dyes

I just wanted to update you guys on what's going on.

It turns out that all of the dyes Mayhem supplied me with are based on UK color codes, and don't technically exist in the USA.

The USA and our FDA have different dye codes for the same dyes, and in some cases certain versions of dyes that exist in EU or UK don't exist here in the US, and vice-versa.

It took me a month after I got the info from Mick before I could even find a dye supplier that was willing to take the information I had, and try to track down USA analogues... and the only reason they were even willing to do that is because they have a UK office that they can correspond with directly.

That said, for me to be able to produce USA analogues of Mick's dyes, I'm basically having to reverse engineer and test the entire product line from scratch, which is almost impossible considering that I don't have anything but pictures to go on.

I had some settling issues at first, but hooked up with a chemist and through correspondence with the dye company's tech dept., am working my way through the colors one by one.

To complicate matters, some dye colors are made from more than one base, and my dye supplier gave me 2-3 versions of each base to try. That is pretty hellish when you're trying to duplicate a result.

Being that I've pretty much made my own product line from scratch, I'm not sure it would even be appropriate to call these dye's "Mayhem's", because they most certainly are not the same dyes.

When I got started on this, I (incorrectly) assumed that I would just be able to find all of the same dyes, and copy Mick's recipies. That couldn't be farther from the truth.

I am still willing to work with Mick, and send him some samples of my dyes for comparison to his, or whatever he wants to do. I pretty much am just doing this now so it doesn't seem like it was all wasted time, so I'm good with anything. I may just release these under my brand, because they don't really equate to Mick's dyes. That's something I'll have to figure out in time.



edit: On top of all of that, my new job has been INSANE. Luckily a lot of dye testing inolves it just sitting around and waiting for something to happen. It's been a LONG time since I've even logged in or checked in on what is going on in the computer/LC world, because I've been so busy with my new job. It's obvious that quite a few things have changed with Mick since I last was around.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by iandh

I just wanted to update you guys on what's going on.

It turns out that all of the dyes Mayhem supplied me with are based on UK color codes, and don't technically exist in the USA.

The USA and our FDA have different dye codes for the same dyes, and in some cases certain versions of dyes that exist in EU or UK don't exist here in the US, and vice-versa.

It took me a month after I got the info from Mick before I could even find a dye supplier that was willing to take the information I had, and try to track down USA analogues... and the only reason they were even willing to do that is because they have a UK office that they can correspond with directly.

That said, for me to be able to produce USA analogues of Mick's dyes, I'm basically having to reverse engineer and test the entire product line from scratch, which is almost impossible considering that I don't have anything but pictures to go on.

I had some settling issues at first, but hooked up with a chemist and through correspondence with the dye company's tech dept., am working my way through the colors one by one.

To complicate matters, some dye colors are made from more than one base, and my dye supplier gave me 2-3 versions of each base to try. That is pretty hellish when you're trying to duplicate a result.

Being that I've pretty much made my own product line from scratch, I'm not sure it would even be appropriate to call these dye's "Mayhem's", because they most certainly are not the same dyes.

When I got started on this, I (incorrectly) assumed that I would just be able to find all of the same dyes, and copy Mick's recipies. That couldn't be farther from the truth.

I am still willing to work with Mick, and send him some samples of my dyes for comparison to his, or whatever he wants to do. I pretty much am just doing this now so it doesn't seem like it was all wasted time, so I'm good with anything. I may just release these under my brand, because they don't really equate to Mick's dyes. That's something I'll have to figure out in time.



edit: On top of all of that, my new job has been INSANE. Luckily a lot of dye testing inolves it just sitting around and waiting for something to happen. It's been a LONG time since I've even logged in or checked in on what is going on in the computer/LC world, because I've been so busy with my new job. It's obvious that quite a few things have changed with Mick since I last was around.

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Hi there. Gis a call on email / PM and ill get the USA equivalents for you. so we can get you up and running quicker in the US market. Ill contact my suppliers tomorrow to see if we can find the USA chemical name for all the products. I know that when things were going though customs even when presented with Real MSDS sheets 1/2 the time customs haven't got a clue what they were hence why some places had a total nightmare getting there products. E.G performance Pcs had to wait 2 months before there items arrived and they were sent twice.

I suppose im lucky i have good friends with in the industry that are willing to help me out when creating all these dyes , colours and colourists who work with me.

For 1 im now glad some one understand these dyes are not just thrown together :) ... as suggested by some people.

Mick you need to take the ] out of the link in your sig.:)


http://]www.wcdyes.com

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rapid7

Mick you need to take the ] out of the link in your sig.:)


http://]www.wcdyes.com

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thks for that i miss these little things all the time :)

Mayhems used two special secret ingredients which were not listed and which can only be found in Ireland not in the US:
1. Unicorn Blood
2. Leprechaun Tears

Hi Mike. Im using your dye Deep Blue mixed with the Clear Blue UV.It,s ok I know. I have two kilcoils in the resevoir. Did you think I need to use some caine of anticorrosive product? or I keep the liquid like it is now. Thanks

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DarthBeavis

Mayhems used two special secret ingredients which were not listed and which can only be found in Ireland not in the US:
1. Unicorn Blood
2. Leprechaun Tears

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PMSL

@ea3ot - sorry mate i don't know what system you have and cannot really comment on what liquids you should add. How ever if all you are running is copper in you system then a kill coil will do the trick if how ever you are running mixed metals i would add a inhibitor. (mixed metals such as aluminium)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mlwood37

PMSL

@ea3ot - sorry mate i don't know what system you have and cannot really comment on what liquids you should add. How ever if all you are running is copper in you system then a kill coil will do the trick if how ever you are running mixed metals i would add a inhibitor. (mixed metals such as aluminium)

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I use only copper all over

same as me then. Just use kill coils or liquid biocide and you will be fine.

Official statement from Mayhems.

Our Pre-Mixed liquids fall within the guidelines of EK. However “We, I” (wcdyes, Mayhems dyes, Mayhems) are not responsible in any way if your blocks fail due to using our liquids. We have done in-house testing in the past on plated products and never found a problem.

Our Biocide how ever does contain Copper sulphate but in past tests on plated products there was never a problem and it never caused any issues. We will not and cannot guarantee this though so please use with caution.

Adding a few drops of Clear / UV Blue to test...


http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/3605/sinttuloork.png

On line shop will be closed from the 16th till the 26th June any orders made between them dates will not be shipped till the 27th June.

hi mlwood,

been using your dye for more than a year, but i think the dye in my loop break down too fast, current setup is on my sig
how long does it usually last ?

It doesn't matter what loop you have got, you will need to check your PH levels of your liquid in you set up all so what biocides you using and how much of it. All so any pictures. before and after. Do u have a sample of the liquid so we can test it.

http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/3...deodisplay.jpg

@mlwood 37:

Ideally what should be the PH in the coolant?

ok, so use dissitiled water with silver as my biocide. the loop consist of water blocks that have gold,nickel,and cooper surfaces. not too sure about checking the pH but i dont have any exact before & after pictures..

Oky PH is important and why "some" pre-mixed liquids fail. The ideal PH is 7 how ever Pre-mixed liquids fall between 7.2 and 8 depending on how much chemical they have in them. A primixed liquid is quite hardy though and has a good PH range.

E.g our pre-mixed liquid is 7.4 PH

How ever Ultra pure H20 is at 7.2 + a UV blue dye makes it 7.3, add more dye it will go to 7.4. Now when it comes to Purple i found that going to 7.9 / 8 PH causes the dye to start fading and hitting 8.4 make it relay weak. This can be achieved by adding to much biocide into a loop or when the loop has not been cleaned correctly and may have flux in it. Im still testing my theory and what i have said so far is "NOT" 100% proof of any thing.

Im just trying to find out why some dyes fade and what we can do to stop it.

The same effect all so is good to find out as well for reason that some systems stain better than other's and this again is down the the PH balance all so many other things can effect it to. So there is no simple answer tbh.

Some of the testing im up to atm this all takes time though.

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Im going to use this post just to show you some of the testing we do with mayhems products to make sure they fall with in recommended guidelines (all though un written) for all of mayhems product lines.

First few tests are about PPM and PH balance of our liquids

First we start off with ultra Pure water -

The test is quite simple we use a small stick that tells us the PPM and PH of the liquids

Picture is of Ultra Pure H20 from mayhems - 2 days after filling, you can just make out the test stick below the bottle. The reason why i wait 2 days is because it gives time for the liquids to settle and all so will show if there are any imperfections by then. We all so test when the liquids are being made with a in-line test meter so this test just double checks and confirms our initial tests.

http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/5287/dscf7556.jpg

Next we stick the test stick into the water for 2 min while shacking the bottle a little. We need a reading of as much of the liquid as possible with out contaminating the source.

http://img685.imageshack.us/img685/5503/dscf7557t.jpg

Then we check the stick colours to the side of the bottle to pull out quick and simple readings.

http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/597/dscf7560p.jpg

As you can see from this quick test out PPM = 0 and out PH balance is 6.8 to 7.00 = this is perfect and proves our claims of 0 PPM will do tests for Us once my calibrating liquids have arrived (ive used up all mine now).

Next we look at the Premixed liquids.

Again first shot it of bottle , and test stick

http://img802.imageshack.us/img802/1214/dscf7562.jpg

Then again a good 2 min of dipping and swishing the liquids about.

http://img710.imageshack.us/img710/1424/dscf7563w.jpg

Then the results ...

http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/4889/dscf7566s.jpg

Now once again the liquid is at 0 PPM how ever the PH of the liquid is 7.5 (it looks higher but that's just camera flash) how ever once again its still in the middle of the range.

This is just to show you that once again we take our liquids very serious and even though we don't normally claim much what we do claim is real.

What i all so show you is the premixed liquids with various colours added. Why becuase when we add dyes the liquids change there PPM and there PH. Normally when a manufacture states a PPM , TDS or PH that only do it from there none dyed liquids and then they use the same literature across the whole range.

So another quick Shot here is the testing of Mayhems Ultra Pure H20 5 Ltr.

As you can see in the picture our hand meter shows not only the temperature of the liquid but all so the uS reading .....

http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/9172/dscf7571e.jpg
http://img710.imageshack.us/img710/5183/dscf7570f.jpg

So the temp is 16.3 C and the uS is 0 .

What's does this mean ?

well it basic mean its none conductive at the point of bottling. What i shall do it take a picture in 5 days time of the same bottle with the meter and show you how it fairs when stored properly in a food safe container as we use in all our bottles. How ever a pre warning Just because our meters show there none conductive doesn't mean that once the liquid hits you water cooling loop it will stay that way. If you still have flux, dust or any thing like that in your loop the uS value will go up and make the liquids conductive and this doesn't take much.

This meter is just one of 4 meters we have for testing all out claims, We have 2 in-line duel test meter (TDS / uS) in our water making equipment and then the Stick test Kit as well as out hand held electronic test kit. All are calibrated weekly and ever 25 Ltr of liquid is tested before being used. The in-line test meter Alarm when any thing over 0.001 TDS comes out and the water is rejected.

When i get time im going to go out buy some DI water from halfords since that seems to be popular brad to use and run it under the same tests, ill all so get some generic bands and again show you what you get. I know last year in previous test the quality of some so called DI water was 10 uS and DI water minimum should me 5 uS how ideally no more than 1 uS.

This by the way is un-bias testing and only here to show you what we do to make our liqudis the best. You can do any of this testing your self at any time and our methods are open to question any time.

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UV Specialtech Blue

http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/9512/dscf7581l.jpg

uv Purple -

http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/6316/dscf7585h.jpg

orange - colour matched close to gigabyte bord's

http://img849.imageshack.us/img849/7542/dscf7588k.jpg

Bright red

http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/3653/dscf7590g.jpg

Blood curdling red

http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/8243/dscf7591h.jpg

anna pink (my daughter made this .......)

http://img641.imageshack.us/img641/9826/dscf7584.jpg

right off to pack for my hols now whoot ....

They look like smoothies. *shock*

See mayhems dye isnt just for plain colours it can be mixed with any thing :) ....

Ive just seen DB's pic of his lovely pc and its working fine.

BTW i think i need to lock this thread out and start a new one its getting way to long.

Your thread has more posts than you - epic dude ;).


What happened to the 5L water btw? Got it from ST last time and no idea where to get decent stuff in moderate quantity. Those 1L bottles go nowhere when youre messing with a big single loop :(.

so Mick for the dye

all I would need is distilled water + a few drops of dye and the biocide correct?

also what is the max drops I can put in my reservoir, I want to get a deeeeeep blue going?

I plan on using the Ultra Blue, if I change my liquid every 3-4 months will I experience any gunk that other dyes leave?

@ PiLsY - 5 Ltr back in stock at ST - http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/...pid-12532.html All thought it is going fast.

@Phaseshift - All you need is biocide think of dye as a add-on to a normal water cooling system. Dyes don't gunk, changing you liquids out is up to your self. Personally ive been running dyes in my own system for over 1 year now and its still going strong. How ever i all ways recommend change liquids out ever 6 to 9 months. As for how many drops for deep blue you only need a couple of drops.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mlwood37

@Phaseshift - All you need is biocide think of dye as a add-on to a normal water cooling system. Dyes don't gunk, changing you liquids out is up to your self. Personally ive been running dyes in my own system for over 1 year now and its still going strong. How ever i all ways recommend change liquids out ever 6 to 9 months. As for how many drops for deep blue you only need a couple of drops.

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So just disttilled and biocide + few drops of dye


do you have a recommendation on clear tubing?

I was thinking about using tygon 3603

i cannot relay recommend tubing as many people on here have different idea's. My self i found tygon caused plastic to accumulate in the pins of my heat killers so i stopped using that.

All so i throw away tubing every year and use clean tubing each year as it only cost £5.00 to replace it all and to me is a worth while investment.

atm im using ClearFlex 60 3/8" ID - 5/8" OD (10-16mm) and it seems to work fine.