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As I posted before Blindripper, BoxGods posted that as a disclaimer. If the coolant is at fault, its not your fault as you checked for a coolant that does not have glycol in it.
The only way to solve your problem though is to get a hold of Brian @ PrimoChill. You may have to send him an e-mail seeing you are out of the country, but getting on here complaining like you are isn't going to help you get it fixed.
If you don't want to do that, then I don't know what to tell you. :shrug:
I am not familiar with that brand but I doubt they would print a label that says no glycol then put glycol in it as it is a pretty toxic chemical. Might as well just call the product "Just sue me" lol.
As for the cracked picture from Brian. That is very likely an original test mule from the batch that was tested to failure and for compatibility. Not making excuses, I can tell that because it has the pretty aqua compression fittings which were also the test parts.
No I do not have anything to do with the pumps.
I think its fair enough.. every1's saying its one specific thing.. when it blatentley isnt, i'd be a lot more pissed off then he was tbh :shrug::shrug:Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime359
Hey BG, just got my top port version from Brian today and it looks great and I think it's going to work perfectly for putting an Aquacomputer tubemeter in there. Thanks for helping out with the pointer to that vid so I could get an idea of what it looked like.
That plug in the top port was in there so tight, I was afraid to take it out for fear of breaking it right out it need so much force :rofl: If your wife put that in, I don't think I ever want to have to arm wrestle her... ;) j/k
Thanks again! :up:
Main reason for that post was he orginial post here:Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamesrt2004
We are trying to help him and that damage that he showed us looks like the results of Glycol. He showed us the coolant he used and it reads that there isn't any glycol in it, so the warranty isn't void. The only thing he can do is get a hold of Brian and RMA it.Quote:
Originally Posted by blind_ripper
Unless something got lost in translation, he doesn't want to RMA it, so only other option is to trash it and get a new res.
Not at all. Does your T3 have a 1/4" pump mounting bracket or the new 3/8" mounting bracket? We switched to the 3/8" (Yes CM I now got your meaning) and allen screws to prevent the tendency to over tighten those screws. The problem is that once the bracket has touched the T3 body any further tightening does nothing but subject those brass inserts to high loading. With the allen screws it is just harder to over tighten them. I am not saying you did of course, but if a user does use one of the chemicals that can cause cracking, the cracks will form in high stressed areas first--like the inserts.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mellowyellow
The T3 is a very sturdy well made acrylic and polycarbonate product but at the end of the day it is still a plastic part--worse a clear plastic part. It puts me in a tough spot because ANY clear plastic part will have issues with glycol, alcohol etc and will always loose the fight with an over tightened screw--that's why we use the inserts.
We are coming up on two thousand T3's now in service...and unfortunately people without issues rarely post :(
I have also seen several threads (not here) where a well meaning guy will tell somebody that PrimoChill is saying use PrimoChill fluids just to make people buy their fluids and that any fluid is fine. That is 100% NOT the case. Using a cleaning solution with alcohol (which a lot of windex type products have) or a cooling fluid with alcohol or glycol WILL DESTROY any acrylic part, and likely any clear plastic part. The warning message is posted right on the product page, is on a sticker right on the T3...and people still think it is some kind of sales ploy. Then when it breaks they get mad.
Anytime =)Quote:
Originally Posted by Ketzer7
You need to check out Vapors test bench and see what he mounted on his top port lol.
She is only 5' tall and 100 pounds but has some GUNS on her lol. It is actually some sort of hydrolic lock I think that results from testing at pressure because if I put in a plug, then remove it its just normal, but if I put in the plug, air the part up to 25 PSI while it is under water I noticed the plugs are harder to get out. We debated for a while if we should build a semi automated pressure testing tank that just pressed rubber stopper type plugs into all the ports and had a rubber stopper type air inlet but the consensus was that it was better to test with the actual parts that come with a T3 because then it not only tests the bonded joint but also the seats for the O rings and the threads. It burns a LOT of time though. She refuses to let me add a manifold so that she can test 2 or more parts at the same time because she can only watch for tiny bubbles on one at a time. Her procedure is to prep and submerge one, hit the timer, prep the next which takes about 60 seconds, pull the plugs and/or pump from the one coming out of the tank which is about 60 seconds, dry the part off with a micro fiber cloth, then air which is another 60 seconds. That puts her at three minutes and she spends the next two just watching the submerged part for any tiny bubbles. Rinse and repeat. I simply could not do it. I would be insane after 10 minutes with boredom and end up designing a machine to insert the plugs, submerge the part, and some sort of camera to watch for bubbles.
I'm not having anymore issues with mine, other than needing to get the non vario pump replaced with the vario one and adding the LEDs in. :p:Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
I been lazy. :(
It has the 3/8's and the allen screws, I never have worked with acrylic before and I was worried about over tightening, so I did slightly over flush then tightened again when it leaked cause I thought it was not well seated. Same with the inlet ports, those were a little weird, when tight one side of the thread would be in slightly more flush while the other side left more room for the O-ring and it was not completely flush. It was like it wasn't going all the way in.. I am not completely sure.Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
I am glad you have 2000 units in service with out issues, that means my next one will be spot on..
Side note, why isn't there directions with the unit?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mellowyellow
If your seeing threads in one side and not on the other (in other words the fitting is not flat) when your putting the compression fitting in then you might have cross threaded it. When you start a screw or fitting if it feels a bit tight or "weird" for want of a better word, don't keep going. Back it out and try again.
For the mounting plate, once the plate that holds the pump in has touched the back of the T3 stop. If you continue tightening the screw acts just like a screw jack and will apply a lot of pressure to the insert.
The no directions is mostly because I am lazy sadly :(
That and I can't say no to people with "little projects" lol. Brian at PrimoChill says he has gotten tired of waiting on me and has put somebody on that job. We shall see.
Not quite at 2000 yet but almost, and there have been SOME issues of course. The bonding band, short supply, the ethylene glycol and alcohol issues, the scratches from the mold etc. As far as I know (and I don't get to see any official information of course) but there were about 40-50 RMA's out of the first 1K units and I am hoping less on the second thousand since we took over post. Even if we don't do better then the other shops did on post production (and we do) and there is another 50 RMA's on the second thousand what is that...5% or less? Not perfect of course but pretty good IMHO.
It truly truly was not cross threaded, the difference from the top to the bottom was very small but as we all know that is enough for water to pass, I wish I had a picture when it was out. I even just read a thread about an hour ago where someone said something as well... let me see if I can find it once again.Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
reading through this thread really makes me want one now.... :( Now I just have to sell all my leftover hardware to get one... 5% RMA isn't that bad considering it is such a small product run. Where there is a product there will always be a failed/damaged/broken product. It is impossible to completely avoid mistakes in manufacturing but it is still something to strive for and 5% is pretty darn good BG :up:
The holes are tapped on a machine but a human DOES load them so it is possible. I assure you I WILL paddle her fanny when I get home tonight ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Mellowyellow
Yeah when you consider the injection molding is done on the other side of the planet, shipped to another location for annealing, shipped to Texas for post...kind of amazing really. Then shipped to I think 10 countries now. I know I have learned a TON on this project that is for sure.Quote:
Originally Posted by sniperbob
:ROTF::ROTF::ROTF:Quote:
Originally Posted by Mellowyellow
Still no instructions hey Geno, and I thought I was lazy. :p:
I have mine with top fillport (the fittings on the fillport is very tight)
using :
distiled water with .999 plain silver "home made coils"
all temps decrease 12Cº
I`m so happy with this res
using MCP 655 without speed controler
with this pump is very loud jajajajajajaja
could you guy´s tell me how to put speed controler ?
Glad you like it Strike. I know what you mean about the pump. The best option is to get the 655 with speed controller and either sell your non vario, or keep it as a back-up pump.
Another option is to get something like this BigNG. A regular fan controller can not handle a pump.
millertime359 yes I´m thinking of buying one of that stuff
but so so expencive puffffff
is there another method ?
if not I´m going to buy a vario pump
Not really. The controllers that can handle a pump are all around that $100 price range.
I would just get the vario pump and you may be able to sell your non-vario to help off-set the cost. :)
thanks millertime359
Quote:
Originally Posted by strike
I am looking into Potentiometers that can handle 12v rails, these should work rather well, the only difference in using a Potentiometer other than a fan/pump controller is that a Potentiometer will always use the same amount of energy but uses resistance to control voltage to what ever it is you want to control, and I think the fan/pump controllers actually use software to control the voltage going to the pump.Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime359
Yeah, I wondered about using a pot as well...I can't think of any reason it wouldn't work except maybe the RPM limiting built into the pump. Of course I am about as electronically inclined as a rock.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mellowyellow
About the same for me. Only when there is smoke, fire, sparks, or I wake up with someone with paddles over me do I know if it will work or not.Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
:eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by Mellowyellow
When I was 5 years old I was struck by lightning (really) so I think I have a subconscious aversion to electricity lol.
I was standing in a foot and a half of water on a clogged cast iron sewer drain holding a big yellow Tonka Truck and I smelled something weird, stood up to look around and a ton of bricks landed on my head. The smell of course was ozone. My feet took the brunt of the damage (barefoot of course) and I refused to get into the bathtub for about 6 months but it could have been a LOT worse.
That explains so much Geno. :p:
Thats CRAZY!!!!!! Puts a lot of pieces of the puzzle into place now but that still nuts!!Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods