Can anyone rate the primochill Typhoon III?

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09-18-2009, 11:14 PM
Ketzer7

Quote:

Originally Posted by BoxGods

The top fill port is just about in the spot shown in the video but maybe 1/4 to 3/8" (10 to 12 mm) closer to the left side as seen from the front.

Awesome, thanks BG for confirming. :up:
09-18-2009, 11:23 PM
dingdong555

Quote:

Originally Posted by dingdong555

JUst a though, would the O-ring from the Typhoon compressions give a full seal on bitspower barbs?

Anyone?
09-19-2009, 01:04 AM
Utnorris

Quote:

Originally Posted by dingdong555

Anyone?

I think you need a number 10 o-ring if I remember right and I do not believe the Primochill compression fittings are that size. You could always try it outside of the case to see if it would work.
09-19-2009, 03:44 AM
Vapor

It's a number 9 o-ring you need and the ones included on the ghost compressions will definitely not work.
09-19-2009, 04:28 AM
badboyze

Quote:

Originally Posted by badboyze

This thread rocks!, i got almost all questions answered just by going through it.. now i know what size of O-rings to buy (ofcourse where to get them too :p:) and where to mount the LED's and how to :ROTF:

Here's my question(s):

I have HWlabs GTX 360, T3 (D5 vario), HK3.0 and DD GTX 285 v2 blcoks in SLI
1. what will be optimum loop for these components
2 . will it make a difference if i run SLI in a separate loop (since i'm using only one RAD)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vapor

HK3.0 in one subloop, everything else in the rest :)

Should get ~1.8-2GPM in both subloops :yepp:

Thanks vapor - based on your advice here is the loop

loop 1
T3 -> HK 3.0 -> T3

loop 2
T3 -> GTX 360 -> DD GTX 285 -> DD GTX 285 -> T3

Does that look right ?
09-20-2009, 09:29 AM
meanmoe

Quote:

Originally Posted by BoxGods

complete dims and files of it in SW and Sketch UP are at PrimoChills site.

Yeah, BoxGods, thanks, but it turns out that I'm site-navigation impaired...
Where's the sketchup model? All I see is the brochure on the front page.

Anybody got a link?
09-20-2009, 03:50 PM
SoulsCollective

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vapor

It's a number 9 o-ring you need and the ones included on the ghost compressions will definitely not work.

I'd disagree.

I was trying to use BP fittings with the Typhoon, and was having no end of leaking issues despite tightening down the clamps with some pliers (so hard I was afraid of cracking the accy). Swapped out the O-rings on the BP fittings with the O-rings included with the Ghost compressions, and leaking problems solved.
09-20-2009, 04:12 PM
Diverge

Quote:

Originally Posted by SoulsCollective

I'd disagree.

I was trying to use BP fittings with the Typhoon, and was having no end of leaking issues despite tightening down the clamps with some pliers (so hard I was afraid of cracking the accy). Swapped out the O-rings on the BP fittings with the O-rings included with the Ghost compressions, and leaking problems solved.

Results are gonna vary from user to user. I had no leaks with using a normal oring, but after picking up a box of #9s at home dept, i can say there is a big difference in the sealing from using the correct oring (that being a #9).

When using a #9, the oring seats and seals a significant time before the base of the hitting tightens to the T3. You get a lot better piece of mind to spend $2 and use the right oring:)
09-20-2009, 04:17 PM
Vapor

Were your stock o-rings smaller than the BP o-rings? I just tried it with BP fatboy fittings and the Ghost Compressions o-rings and it was leaking without even turning on a pump :(

It was a fairly slow drip compared to the stock BP o-ring, maybe a drop every 10-15 sec, but still a drip :(

I know with the #9 o-rings, I can just hand tighten and have no leaks even at really insane pressures (on my 8-port Typhoon). When I tore down a couple days ago, I converted all my fittings to #9s, they're really awesome :D
09-20-2009, 04:45 PM
SoulsCollective

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vapor

Were your stock o-rings smaller than the BP o-rings? I just tried it with BP fatboy fittings and the Ghost Compressions o-rings and it was leaking without even turning on a pump :(

It was a fairly slow drip compared to the stock BP o-ring, maybe a drop every 10-15 sec, but still a drip :(

I know with the #9 o-rings, I can just hand tighten and have no leaks even at really insane pressures (on my 8-port Typhoon). When I tore down a couple days ago, I converted all my fittings to #9s, they're really awesome :D

The O-rings I was using with the BP fittings were those that came with them stock.

Does anyone have any measurements for these "#9" O-rings (preferably in metric)? Not being in the USA, I don't have your department stores or hardware standards and thus can't just ask for "#9 O-rings" at my local hardware stores.
09-20-2009, 04:58 PM
Vapor

I was asking about your Ghost Comps stock fittings, sorry :eek: Mine are noticeably smaller than the BP's stock fittings.

Hard to get exact measurements since they're flexible, but ~11mm ID and ~16mm OD.

They have the same OD as the BP stock fittings (~12.7/~16) and the same ID as the Ghost Compression fittings (~11/~14) for reference.

They should look like a thicker version of the BP stock fittings :)
09-20-2009, 05:03 PM
Diverge

Quote:

Originally Posted by SoulsCollective

The O-rings I was using with the BP fittings were those that came with them stock.

Does anyone have any measurements for these "#9" O-rings (preferably in metric)? Not being in the USA, I don't have your department stores or hardware standards and thus can't just ask for "#9 O-rings" at my local hardware stores.

Here's the ones I have: http://www.homeandbeyond.com/prod-cd-og-5123088.html

5/8"OD x 7/16"ID x 3/32" wall
09-20-2009, 10:43 PM
BoxGods

Quote:

Originally Posted by meanmoe

Yeah, BoxGods, thanks, but it turns out that I'm site-navigation impaired...
Where's the sketchup model? All I see is the brochure on the front page.

Anybody got a link?

Hmmm...it is NOT just you as I couldn't find the link either lol.

I will ask Brian WTF as I sent him those like 3 months ago.
09-23-2009, 01:50 AM
BoxGods

I know a few of you guys are electrical engineers...I need a little advice on running an ION motherboard on batteries for say a 2 hour stretch. The board comes with a 19V 4.74A wall wart/transformer that plugs into a jack on the rear I/O. From that jack there is the typical red and black wire--looks like about 18 AWG or so--that are hard soldered to the board. I am told that I can just build myself an 18V battery pack with twelve 1.5V Li-Po cells for something like 1200mAh to 1600mAh and hard solder the battery pack leads right to the same two solder points leaving the jack for the transformer connected. This will make the system run from the batteries when it is not plugged into the wall, and from the wall when it is plugged in, and recharge the batteries.

Seems TOO simple to me...like I need some sort of switching circuit or other complicated kit.

Any advice would be very much appreciated.
09-23-2009, 04:04 AM
Barso

Just received the black T3 faceplate and it looks fantastic with the cosmos S case.
Looks FANTASTIC.
09-23-2009, 05:43 AM
millertime359

Quote:

Originally Posted by BoxGods

I know a few of you guys are electrical engineers...I need a little advice on running an ION motherboard on batteries for say a 2 hour stretch. The board comes with a 19V 4.74A wall wart/transformer that plugs into a jack on the rear I/O. From that jack there is the typical red and black wire--looks like about 18 AWG or so--that are hard soldered to the board. I am told that I can just build myself an 18V battery pack with twelve 1.5V Li-Po cells for something like 1200mAh to 1600mAh and hard solder the battery pack leads right to the same two solder points leaving the jack for the transformer connected. This will make the system run from the batteries when it is not plugged into the wall, and from the wall when it is plugged in, and recharge the batteries.

Seems TOO simple to me...like I need some sort of switching circuit or other complicated kit.

Any advice would be very much appreciated.

Just sent you a PM G. :up:
09-23-2009, 08:21 AM
century child

Quote:

Originally Posted by Barso

Just received the black T3 faceplate and it looks fantastic with the cosmos S case.
Looks FANTASTIC.

Glad you are happy with yours. I just received mine as well but will still have to wait a bit before installing. Please post a pic or 2 if possible.
09-23-2009, 09:03 AM
millertime359

Just make certain you add in the extra thickness of the faceplate when mounting it, otherwise it won't be flush. I have to flush mine one of these days.
09-23-2009, 09:44 AM
Barso

My T3 was flush but because the top cover of the cosmos has a lip I was able to get away with it.
Olus I hated the thought of getting the electric drill out again.
But it really does look great.:up:
09-23-2009, 01:42 PM
Fafeifa

I thnk everything is good except the noise. It turns your pc into a big speaker. I was very happy with the performance but i had to set the pump to speed 2 so it could be bearable. I rather use D5 with custom tops.
09-23-2009, 01:51 PM
ptrout

It's cavitation.

You need to get the air out. I have 4 of these things, and they run near silent, even at setting 5.
If you bleed it right, and you need turn skyward, to get all the air out.
09-23-2009, 02:13 PM
Fafeifa

Quote:

Originally Posted by ptrout

It's cavitation.

You need to get the air out. I have 4 of these things, and they run near silent, even at setting 5.
If you bleed it right, and you need turn skyward, to get all the air out.

I had no air left in the system. I left the thing run all night skyward and wasn't happy with the results. People have different tolerance to noise. I don't think is a big issue since the majority are happy, i think i am just too sensitive to that noise.
09-23-2009, 02:26 PM
millertime359

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fafeifa

I thnk everything is good except the noise. It turns your pc into a big speaker. I was very happy with the performance but i had to set the pump to speed 2 so it could be bearable. I rather use D5 with custom tops.

It is a bit noisy on the non-vario. I can hear it more compared to when it was mounted down in the case. I think it is partly due to it being higher up in the case. I just got a vario one to replace this non vario and I plan to find some peices of rubber to stick to the sides. I know it came with those rubber isolation pieces, but I'm not certain what I did with them. I figured a couple of small strips down the sides where it meets with the case should help though.

Also that vario set a 2-3 should help even more. :)
09-23-2009, 02:43 PM
BoxGods

There are so many variables where sound is concerned. The first is the person listening--the difference between sound and noise. When I made the transition from Lian-Li cases to Silverstone cases everything seemed so much louder all of a sudden. After I had the entire case apart for painting with the rivets drilled out and then put back together it was as quiet as a Lian-Li...turns out on that particular batch the rivet machines air pressure was probably set a little low so the rivets were not clenching as tight as they should. Very subtle vibration in the chassis was causing all the joints to generate noise.

If you are sure all the air is out and you have used the included isolation washers then you might want to be sure the case/case sides etc are tight. On the plus side, running a T3 at 3 (as I do) is usually plenty as it moves a LOT of water =)
09-24-2009, 05:09 AM
Barso

I have purchased a waterblock for the chipset of the EVGA classified.
I already have a heatkiller 3.0.
My current setup is T3 to heatkillerto rad and back to T3.
How should I setup up new block too?
Thanks.

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