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HEHEH that's right :D eny way I would rather go whit the 2100xp T-Bred as they are good @ love am but I cant order them from
newegg.com because im in AU:( is eny way to get them here :confused: I have mail heaps of shops around here but nothing :rolleyes:
The T-Bred B is beginning to show its worth.. sweet. 8-)
OK people, R U ready?
http://users.volja.net/lukaakul/imag...GHz04fullC.jpg
And that's with very poor air cooling courtesy of Zalman CNPS 6000 Cu and 1,65 V (default for 2400+). I don't want to push it too high because of inadequate cooling, but there you have it 2400+ for half the price.
I know my OC is pathetic compared to Watercooled systems, but as an aircooled system I think it's not all that bad.
My rig is:
Epox 8K3A
512 MB 2100 DDR RAM (2x 256 MB Samsung & Micron) CL2,5 (needs upgrading to 3200, hopefully soon)
Zalman CNPS 6000 Cu (needs an upgrade; BIG Time)
2100+ TbredB (Sweet)
AXDA2100DUT3C
AIUHB 0251 XPKW
Brown
MSI GF4Ti4400 128 MB VIVO @4600 (not bad)
SB Live Soundcard
Just got mine - the same as Tod's one ...
Stable @ ~2408MHz | 1.9V :p | + water temp @ 30C !
I'll try it soon with 10C Room and ice in the reservoir ... :)
Pic :
Little update here. This badboy is flying. Prime95 has been running so far for 30 minutes.
http://home.kc.rr.com/sminker/images/25673dmarks.jpg
And for some reason that damn 3Dmark wont let me publish my score. What a bummer. Thats my highest yet.
Nice overclock.
I just got my 2100 today.
I'm running @ 2500 mhz, I'm using 1.85 volts running 200 fsb X 12.5 multiplier.
I'm doing all this with a Thermaltake volcano 7 .
I'm starting to think about water cooling + pelt set up
THESE ARE DAMN FINE CHIPS.
I'll push some more voltage on the chip later.
What are your temperatures zion? I have my 2100+ at 2,0 GHz at 1,65V and I'm gettng 70C, so I dont dare go any further. Now I need a better cooler than my Zalman CNPS 6000 Cu at 2500 RPM, and I'm considering the Volcano 7+ you have. What do you think? Is is good enough?Quote:
Originally posted by zion
I'm running @ 2500 mhz, I'm using 1.85 volts running 200 fsb X 12.5 multiplier.
I'm doing all this with a Thermaltake volcano 7 .
Quote:
Originally posted by zion
Nice overclock.
I just got my 2100 today.
I'm running @ 2500 mhz, I'm using 1.85 volts running 200 fsb X 12.5 multiplier.
I'm doing all this with a Thermaltake volcano 7 .
I'm starting to think about water cooling + pelt set up
THESE ARE DAMN FINE CHIPS.
I'll push some more voltage on the chip later.
what week and stepping is the processor?
Jen
I have now made a picture of my 2100 AIUHB week 51 for all to enjoy :D:
http://users.volja.net/lukaakul/imag...HB_51_mine.jpg
I now heard that there are AIUHB week 52 in the store where I got mine. Those may be even better chips, since Morphling1s 1700+ week 52 JIUHB is doing 2700 MHz on water of course; something I haven't seen any other JIUxB chip do. His friend with the same stepping chip isn't doing bad either. 2,3 GHz! Pretty good for a 1700+ "J" Tbred B I would think. No more of those in store though.
is your chip what you post now better then this one???
If you're asking me, there really is no way to tell from the picture. They are both AIUHB, except that mine is week 51 and yours is week 48. In general the newer the better. Morphling1s week 52 JIUHB 1700 is doing extremely well (2,7 GHz) of course on super duper water cooling. If you compare that to results of even week 51 "J" chips thats extremely well.
Are these sweet cpu`s factory unlocked like the 2400 etc ?
They are supposed to be, but I cant increase my multiplier, because only mults of 13 and up are unlocked, but not lower. My mobo doesn't support higher mults than 13 (at least thats what I think) If you want multis 12,5 and lower you have to short the last L3 bridge.
Nice clocks everybody.
Atastrumf cool avatar, as for your temps don't forget you're on 8k3a mobo that reads internal diode, but still I wouldn't push it past that.
I can't wait to try my own air cooling and that week 51 1700+ chip
So if i buy a KT400 it unlocks normal ?Quote:
Originally posted by AtaStrumf
They are supposed to be, but I cant increase my multiplier, because only mults of 13 and up are unlocked, but not lower. My mobo doesn't support higher mults than 13 (at least thats what I think) If you want multis 12,5 and lower you have to short the last L3 bridge.
I have a Kt333 chipset so i have to unlock it again, damn i hate that stuff ! @@#$$%$%
I think it should
Now that's interesting..... you CPU is AIUHB "F", the very first one I've seen for now.... and it seems that it's also better than AIUHB "9".... ;)Quote:
Originally posted by AtaStrumf
I have now made a picture of my 2100 AIUHB week 51 for all to enjoy :D:
hi all , after teting my chip all yesterday and all last night. I'm very happy with this one, I had to bump up the voltage to 1.90 to stay with 2500. A voltage bump of .05 is not affecting temp that much.
atastrumf my temp are decent.
Remember my board (8k3a+) has a major temp bug. So my temps are far from correct.
atastrumf what board are you running? If your running a 8k3a+ like myself 70 c temp are nothing.
Chrank her up a few hundred mhz and raise the voltage a little and have fun.
Going by my board, burning my cpu in it runs @ 87 C.
I know that's very high, but remember the temp bug on this board (the heat sink is not even that warm).
Past CPU's Work great with higher voltage, the board becomes unstable @ 98 c.
Zion, nothing realy wrong with 8k3a temp reading, because it reads temp from internal diode. But I also believe that diode in tbred is realy not showing correct temperature, because it's much higher then on my palomino, but that's not the problem with mobo but with the diode inside cpu die. It probably needs to be compensated +- in motherboard monitor, I need to check that with compensation formula for diode calibration.
Just checked, for calculating precisely you need more accurate reading, but anyway my calculations are pretty OK because I can measure water temp very well, so I calculate -18°C compensation in mbm with my setup and you can easly substract that from your 8k3a tbred readings (palomino were OK by default).
morphling1, the problem is not with the Tbred diode itself, but the 8K3A board.....
I had some conversations with Chris from EPoX.nl and was told, that the board is reading the sensor incorrectly..... the Palomino reading is right, but the Tbred - way too high...
But then the problem is not in motherboard, because it didn't changed but in cpu diode which change and probably use different resistor. So temperature compensation is in order and I calculate that to be ~ 18°C lower than original. And now that I checked also with wpcredit halt command enabled which shuts down everything my cpu is idling few degrees above ambient temp where it should be.
morphling the problem is the board.
I have and ran a 2000 palimino, and a 1700 tbed core a on my epox, before I got my 2100 tbred core b.
And with both cpu's, the temp was highly out of whack on the epox.
Running the tbred cpu on my abit same voltage (2.1) I was around in high 50c.
On my epox same voltage and heat sink, I was in the high 80c.
My palimino ran about 10 to 12 c lower then the tbred in the epox (50c abit / and 75c on the epox) but ran the same on the abit.
These were under full load temps.
On both boards I use the CPU halt command also.
So in short high eighty temps on my epox with the tbreds do not worry me.
I guess then it's problem from board to board, which of corse make it the board problem :D. Well my palominos temps were correct, but tbreds are way off.
But I know what I'll do, I'll add Senfu remote sensor so that it will touch the core, and have diode temps just for orientation.
Man this is really good news. I've been in doubt of this temps since I first put a Tbred A 1700+ in my Epox 8K3A. I dismounted a heatsink within 30 seconds of turning the PC of, and the copper was quite cold to the touch, compared to when I took it of off a Palomino, but the MBM temps were in the 60-is at 1,55 V. That's 10 C more than it showed for a Palomino, and the Palomino produced a much warmer heatsink. Now its all starting to make sense. I'll try to measure the temps with my temp. probe that came with the case. Its thin enough to slip under the heatsink, but access could be better.