I bet 12 Mag's would do better. :p:
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I bet 12 Mag's would do better. :p:
I bet 12 MD100RZT;s would do better... mauahahahh :lol:
Does anybody have a picture how the pump(MD20/MD30) looks when the back casing of the pump with the motor is removed?. I can't seem to get the back casing off, do I have to remove the Drive Magnet unit to get it off?
No pics but try this ......
http://www.iwakiwalchem.com/iwaki/Li...W)MDmanual.pdf
Page 16 has an exploded view.
bfx
pessimisten if you want a pic of the WMD I can help you out, but no joy on the MD.
That would be great if you could do that for me :)Quote:
Originally Posted by MaxxxRacer
Yea I already have looked at those but the engine isn't shown on any picture, maybe industry secret?Quote:
Originally Posted by bfx
well you cant see the motor from the pics I will be able to show you. just a fyi.
Were you after pics of the coil? The armeture?
I can get MD ones if you wish. They probably look the same as the WMD ones though.
Yea, I can only get i off like 1 cm and all I see is a copper coil maybe you need to remove the Drive magnet unit to get the casing off completely? I need a picture of the back without the casing to see how and where the heat is lead out to the casing. Need that info for planning some coolingmods to it :DQuote:
Originally Posted by phextwin
Are these what you are looking for?
Am unsure how to take the coil out at this stage.
wow.. nice pics. that thing is crazy.. god only knows how many pole motor it has.
Is it possible to remove the armeture with the WMD?
With the MD there are 2 bolts holding it on that can be acessed once you remove the impellor assembly. It's fairly straigt forward. The coil doesnt seem to have any obvious way to remove it, which is probably a good thing, broken wires etc.
Thanks for the pics.
According to the pictures the copper coils have direct contact with the casing and that's why it gets so damn hot if I understand the pics right. So if you could cool down the casing a little, less heat would be transmitted to the water or isn't that simple?
pessimisten, thankfully its exactly that simple. u just need to channel the airflow properly so that it doesnt warm up ur case
Do a volenti and zip tie some heatsinks to the side.
http://forums.overclockers.com.au/sh...enti+heatsinks
Here for the pic if you havn't or CBF signing up to OCAU.
I already have cut me some heatsinks for it and they are alot bigger than his and alot more :) If that don't work watercooling is the next stop :DQuote:
Originally Posted by phextwin
watercool the water pump.. now thats a new one!
Just make sure you use a seperate loop to watercool the pump, otherwise all the work will be for naught.
Haha only at XS would someone watercool the pump used for watercooling the cpu.
Quote:
Originally Posted by phextwin
Why would cooling the pump casing (in some inventive fashion) with the same loop thats cooling your CPU be for nothing if your radiator can handle the extra load? Would be a pump that dumped 100% of its load into the loop.
which is worse than where we started, with only dumping a smaller % into the water.
The coolest thing to do would be to braze long copper nails to every square mm of that baby and put a massive fan over it :)
Lol a large spiked mace.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bloody_Sorcerer
I dont see how its worse off if you have a giant radiator that can easily handle the extra 50watts... Wouldnt keeping the pump at a close to room temp help its efficiency at all?
Holly cow!!! You guys are real pros. I mean, water cooling is something but some of you got some serious plumbing action going on in your system.
And I haven't been able to get a standart watercooling system running yet. Damn!
Just think guys its sitting in my closet collecting dust. :D
-Brandon
brandon.. either get a monstorecore and mod some cooing fins on that thing or sell it and get a MD20... no point for it to be doing nothing!
Yeah I know.. I'm just toooo busy today was my first real day off in 11 days. I'll get it all squared once I get thru the next month or so.
-B!