ok well reset CMOS and that doesnt help. I leave the CDROM in during boot but it doesnt boot from the disk( sorry im an idiot when it comes to OS stuff, I never listened in class )
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ok well reset CMOS and that doesnt help. I leave the CDROM in during boot but it doesnt boot from the disk( sorry im an idiot when it comes to OS stuff, I never listened in class )
resetting the cmos wont fix the corrupted os on your hdd :lol:
you need to boot from your xp cd and do a repari install :)
hmmm you could try this: keep ctrl pressed during the boot and select "last working settings" (dunno what its called in english) and it might work again...
Honestly, you should just reformat and start over (unless there's something vital on the drive you need). You can try to repair the install, but it's not a guaranteed fix. Here's how to do it:Quote:
Originally Posted by saaya
1. Boot from your Windows install disk and let it load all the drivers and stuff
(If you're running raid, you'll have to hit f6 and install the raid drivers)
2. Then you'll come to the page talking about EULA? hit f8 to continue
3. IIRC, windows then searches for previous installs and then gives you the option to either continue with the current install, or repair using the reocovery console or something like that. You're going to want to chose to continue the install, NOT the repair console thingy.
4. I think this is the point where windows will give you the option to either install over your current os or repair it. This is where you choose the repair option and then everything's just like any other install from this point on. You're going to have to have your reg. key handy since you have to enter it again. I use this method when I'm changing motherboards but want to keep my windows install the same. I'm pretty sure it's not as optimal as a fresh install, but it gets the job done. Now if your whole file system is corrupted, I'm not sure if this method can fix everything. Also, the way you describe the windows boot screen just "fading in" sounds like it possibly could be a prob with the memory or voltages. Hope this helps. GL
Cool I will try that when I get my hands on the disk I used last time. KNow where I can get XP Pro SP1 cheap?
And it's not fading in in the way your picturing it. Its fading in on purpos, the OS is doing it. Ugh, maybe I'll take some screen shots today if i can get a camera
EDIT: yhpm
-saaya
So im back in windows. I have no idea how it worked as i'm pretty sure I used an XP Home CD and CD Key to recover my XP Pro install? Anyway, my network settings are more FUBAR than they were to begin with and My ntivirus stuff is blowing up. I think instead of trying to fix this stuff, I'm going to gather all my Oc utilites, some install files, back them up and reformat and re install everything. Ugh I so don't want to reinstall Halflife 2, oh well. I'll start this project tonight I guess. NEdd to get away from this stupid thing
Ok so I didn't wait. Posting on the 64 Rig now. Nforce Drivers and stuff installed. :)
OK this might be a stupid question, but why did DFI even bother with the voltage switch jumpers, why not just run it of the 5v rail like some epox boards?
I think you would have to ask the board designers that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Millyons
Quick questions, this trick will benefit me only if I can adjust the 3.3V rail right? If I can't do it, it is not going to offer me any advantage like higher or more stable voltage, right?
Let me get this straight.
If I set my jumpers on JP17 from 1-2 to 2-3 (i.e. Expand DRAM's Voltage up to 4v) then I am definately running my Vdimm off the 5v rail?
If so I'm a bit of a :banana::banana::banana::banana::banana::banana::b anana::banana:. I bought the OCZ 520W Powerstream for the 3.3 adjustable rail's so I didn't need to run off the 5v rail.
As my VX is only using 3.3v I'm much better off using Bigtoe's 'trick' aren't I?
I'm going to set my rails 3.3v rail at around 3.4, will that do?
Also by using the 'trick' will I achieve better temps on my PWM IC and/or mosfets? Will my Ram be cooler?
Also will I now avoid the dreaded cold boot?
Just a few ignorant newbie questions
YesQuote:
Originally Posted by Mikesta
you realy want your rail about.2V above what your goign to use for max stability. I have my rail at 3.67V and I'm running at 3.4VQuote:
Originally Posted by Mikesta
Mosfets will not be hot as it is not stressed by trying to cut 5V down to 3.3VQuote:
Originally Posted by Mikesta
Don't knowQuote:
Originally Posted by Mikesta
Guy,
I don't think this trick actually works.
I was using the 331 BIOS and had the cold boot bug. Did 'the trick' and boot bug was still around.
Flashed to 510 (still using the trick- 3.5 on 3.3v rail) and boot bug seems to be gone.
My only conclusion is that it must be BIOS related at least to some extent. I'll change back to the 5v rail in 10 hours or so and test if I still have the boot bug.
As a side note my 520w OCZ powerstream now makes a clicking noise when I try and Prime95 with large FTT's.
Ha, a clicking noise is definitly not good. Make sure its not the fan though, I had somehting hitting it once
It's a bit confusing... We claimed to a board capable to raise voltage up to +3,2volts, when we had it, we go back to 3,3v line mod's... :stick:
Isn't that moving the problem in the mosfet (getting it so hot) to the PSU (modding it, if not adjustable PSU) ??? :confused:
you sure thats not the caps in the dimm area? if it is in the dimm area, thats normal. happens to me and others as well, as the caps charge and discharge with load. kind of sounds like air passing through a radiator in a WC system. happened with the nf3 branded board as well (from what i have heard).Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikesta
if it is the PSU, RMA it immediately.
Just read through this thread, very interesting, and useful :) Just two questions though:
1) The main benefits to this mod is a more stable voltage going to the RAM and less heat from MOSFETS, correct?
2) Set RAM volts to 3.2v in BIOS when changing voltage on PS?
My apologies if these questions have been answered already, I just wanted to clarify before giving this a try. :woot:
It sounds like the PSU but I'll check caps. It's really quite load, I've NEVER had it happen before and it only seems to happen when I Prime95 with large FFT's not small.Quote:
Originally Posted by pershoot
Coincidently it's the first time I've ran my VX off the 3.3v rail (MEM=3.3, PSU 3.52). I'll switch back to 5V rail and see what happens.......
I sure hope I don't have to RMA my PSU! I have to send it interstate and only have a generic 400w as back up. not sure if it is even compitible with DfinF4 board!
because it wont work for vdimm below 3.2v afaik, the lower the vdimm you derive from the 5v the hotter the mosfet on the top right of the board gets.Quote:
Originally Posted by Millyons
yuppQuote:
Originally Posted by hovo73
yupp aaaand yupp :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Eldonko
good luck Mikesta
hi all ,some intresting stuff ,im a newbie with this,so ive got some questions 1)doese this trick only work with certain boards ? 2) can i do it on my dfi 875-t mb ? 3) where abouts on the board is the jumper block ?
Thanks Saaya :D
uhm no, it only works with the dfi nf4 afaik... i dont think any other board has this jumper block and vdimm circuicy :DQuote:
Originally Posted by vanovich
bienvenidos eldonko! :D
Thanks Saaya,
PSU is okay! I'm back to using 5v rail and I get no clicking whatsoever. I guess my PSU doesn't like my 3.3v rail being up'd to 3.5, then having Prime95 (Large FFT's) drawing from it!
Now if only I can find a BIOS that is as stable as this 331-1, performs alittle better...and has no cold boot issues! one can only dream....
I just bought an OCZ Powerstream 600watt PSU. It's great XD
Since I'll be adjusting the 3.3v rail and I dont want to damage my SATA drives I'm just using a Molex-sata power connector. You can also just use a molex coonector instead of the SATA power connector. That's why SATA drives have both connection types, so you can power them if you dont have the SATA power connectors.
Using this method will allow you to adjust the 3.3volt rail without risk of damaging the SATA drives (cuz Molex don't use an orange wire...Orange=3.3v)
the powerstreams get adjusted while the pc is on right? just need to know before i try it.
I think so, however I only adjust mine when I'm in the BIOS.
Very good to know Snark, I have been using the SATA connectors on my HDs but I will switch em to molex to be safe. :)