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I PMed him at this time
04-10-2005 04:57 PM
And the message tracker says he read it at
04-10-2005 10:04 PM
Its 5 days since then
I know I may seem anoying posting back and forward but Its best for me to buy my WC solution today
also, if someone knows another place were I can get the AquaXtreme as cheap as cooltechnica, please post
That is totaly up to you! I'm building a rad box and my Storm G5 will take another 3 weeks easy to get here, so I have time to blow. Have you checked out my project?
You can find it here
I would give weapon a bit more time. I would guess he is making a few of these core, (fine looking ones at that).
If you don't think you can wait then you can get a regular core from one of the sites that sell them, but I wanted the flow cannons 5/8" barbs.
yeah, I already saw your project. Nice stuff there
I could give weapon about a month since I get the CPU and GPU next month, but I would really like to have the WC complete this month so I can start testing it before getting all the parts.
Something else cought my atention. In CoolTechnica.com they list some cautions below the pump and one of them is this
" Use of improper additives such as Coloring dye, Fluorescent dye, UV dye, or any other additives containing particulate pigments will cause excessive wear to the pump's impeller bearing, and should not be used! "
Since Im using Zerex + Distilled H20, will Zerex wear the pump?
Also. Pure water isnt too conductive, but will Zerex make it enough conductive to fry my hardware right when a leak happens and a drop falls on a hardware?
No... zerex will help with flow a bit becuase it reduces the surface tension and it contains none of the above!
I would just make sur you have clamps on and test with out the pc running. Best way to stop a leak is do your best not to have one!
i still want to know if florescent dye is really that bad... did maxxxracer ever comment on that?
And I'd like to know if a small amount is ok. I mean, unless you're using filtered water there has got to be little particles floatin' through. And how long does it take for a small amount of dye to actually affect the pump's life. What is it like half the operation time?
I know I have to avoid leaks at all cost, but what do I do if I have one?
If sudently there is a quirt that lands on the GPU, what will happen if the fluid is Zerex + Distilled.
Will it instantly kill the GPU?
Will it take a while as it becomes dirt?
If so, do I just clean it with Q tips, or do I need alcohol to wipe out the Zerex.
An answer to the dyes problem would also be good.
If the AQ 50z wears with dies, will otehr pumps resist better?
The problem is that the die sticks on the rotator, right?
If thats the problem, is there any special die that doesnt stick?
I've had water spill on two 9500s while they were on and it killed them. My current 9800 has had water spilled on it but if I take it out and blow dry it and let it sit in front of a fan for a couple hours it seems to be ok. Now I just have a piece of plexiglass above it so if water leaks above it it'll drip down the the bottom of the case.
Scary
should I change to fluid XP+ one day?
No. Worse performance by a few degrees than distilled water + zerex.
were do leaks usually happen?
Is it possible that a tube brakes a hole?
Should I use this?
http://www.frozencpu.com/ex-tub-30.html
tubing is usually the LAST thing to leak... usually leaks happen around the fittings on waterblocks and radiators.. either the fitting isnt screwed down good enough or more likely the tubing wasnt clamped down well enough.
Like he said. You only need to use teflon tape on a barb you screw in yourself, anything you buy with fittings preinstalled generally has them leak tested first so you're alright. Teflon tape does not go on the barb itself (the part the tubing clamps on) but the threaded side.
LOL... funny how we need to state where the teflon tape goes... that was a funny incident.
HILARIOUS! :slap:
still makes me laugh every time i hear it.
I've had a couple of minor leaks... both were at the barbs... a hoseclamp and tiewrap later.... no leaks. Use clamps!!! or only HQ tiewraps.Quote:
Originally Posted by Turok
A wee bit of destilled water/Glycol got on both my cards.. 9700pro and 6800Ultra. Both were fine after drying... my heart stopped when the Ultra gave no video signal!! hahahah
Test your loop with "only" the pump on..... computer off. Safer!!
Power 12v pump from extra p.s., or jumper the PC p.s. using a U shaped wire on the green/black wires on the mobo connector.
shush.Quote:
Originally Posted by MaxxxRacer
yeah, you need to use clamps or those zip ties. I almost like zip ties better because their easier to work with and they might actually work better (because they're not so wide).
UV dye breaks down plastic slowly, or weakens it. The plastic in the pump will be weakened, but I'm not sure how much.
There should only be a tiny amount of zerex in the water (1/20th) so just drying it off with a towell should be fine. If you ever leak on your system make sure it's *completely dry* before turning it back on again.
You need to test run your system for 24-48 hours with just the pump running. You do this by connecting only the pump to the power supply. You get the power supply to turn on by shorting the black and green wires together with a paper clip. The green wire is an active low open-drain signal to power on, you're just making the signal go low by using ground. It's good to have paper towells in your system to protect it against the leaks even though it isnt on.
I wouldnt get a res with screw-in fittings. Screw-in fittings are just another potential leak. That big res that goes on the back of the case (big tube) would be nice, but I havent tried that yet.
hmmm...
I would like more info about that turning the PSU on technique.
So the green and black cables are from the 24 pin connector?
Is it just a quick connection or does it have to be a steady connection for all the time its going to be on?
I do not want to over volt this pump. I dont know what the pump's plug looks like, its a 4 pin, right? I just plug it in the 4 pin plug and fire up the PSU by connecting the 2 wires?
About corrosion, how do I maintain the WC set? What will happen if I dont maintain it?
Im going for the T res. I already ordered all my WC parts except the block, since its out of stick, and the weapon core, because weapon hasnt PMed me back. Waiting for the WC to ship. :)
I see a lot of places with the MCW 6002 out of stock.
Afther reading the thread talking about Al/Cu corrosion, should I buy the MCW 6002?
paperclip between any black wire (all of them are grounds) and the green wire of your PS, disconnect the paperclip, power goes off.
It makes your PS think you pushed the power button (the dumbed down version of what quanticles said about low power something or other..........) Do not jump it with no load, always have a fan or pump connected when you turn the PS on.
As for corrosion I am running zerex with all kinds of aluminum :nono: , so I guess I will find out in a couple of months.
racin, the zerex will slow it down, but check it for corrosion ever 2 months... u dont want it going south on you and leaking.
the 6002 is the correct block for 1/2" ID tubing.. yeah
You need to leave the paper clip in to keep it on.
Just connect the pump to one of the standard molex connects. That's where it's meant to go. The PSU will give power to everything.
Help again!!!
Where are the MCW 6002's !? :confused:
I cant find a good store with it available.
Why is the MCW6002 not available?
Anyone know when it will be?
If this block isnt anywere, then Ill have to get something else.
Whats *the best* 1/2" block out there?