lol KITT.. thats what alot of ppl who PM me asking for help say... lol..
lol KITT.. thats what alot of ppl who PM me asking for help say... lol..
just to add a bit of info... i didn't see this in the guide and i thought it would help if you could edit this in there for those that have more restrictions on mounting.
we all know that often times it isn't possible to mount the res at the highest point in the case. this may not necessarily doom you to bleeding your lines for days on end. if you have to mount the radiator at the highest point in the case, all thermochill rads (afaik) have a bleed valve on the top of the rad. this cuts your bleed times down big time if the rad is at the highest point. so, if you can't put the res at the highest point, but you'll be putting the rad at the highest point... get a thermochill rad.
hope that helps ^_^
res height doesnt matter at all. it will still bleed quickly.
air collects at the highest point in the loop... so putting the res at the top will make it bleed much faster. i'm just adding that the thermochill rads will bleed just as easily as a res. just thought it would help..... :(
when the pump is un the air wont collect at the highest point so much. it gets dragged through by the waterflow. thast why it realy wont matter.
besides if u want to speed things up u just tilt ur case around a bit.
I would allways recomend leak testing with NO components in the case at all when using new components.
If you do get a leak even if your motherboard is powered off you can still kill it!!!
I have seen this happen many times.
On systems with sliding motherboard trays you can easily line up the blocks and fit the tubing then remove the motherboard from the system for the initial leak test. Then refit it for a prolonged test (with the blocks mounted in there final positions)
Its unlikely that the manufacturer of blocks will miss out an O ring, or that a hoze will pop off but it does happen! Once you get water under SMT components or chipsets it is VERY hard to get rid of it. Better to not take any risks at all in my opinnion.
If you need the PSU to be on to power your pump, put it on top of the case (so it cant get wet) and short the black and green wires on the ATX connector to power it on.
You might want to add silicone tubing into the tube options list as well max.
I know few of us use it but it is far superior to tygon as far as leaks are concerned, as it sticks to the barbs... you dont even need hoze clamps (although i use a tie wrap so you cant accidentally pull the tube off)
It is also super flexible and cheaper than tygon.
holst on your first post there i fixed it. you said red and green wires on the psu. its black and green.
Holst, Ive have some silicone tubing. I dunno though as its a pita to see through which is a feature i desperatly like with the tygon and clearflex. makes things alot easier when working on it. besides the fact taht 2/3 of the ppl who want to get into watercooling are into the whole bling thing. but i might add it.
as to the leak testing. tahts why i say dont move away from the tesing for the first 10-20 minutes as you want to make sure there is gonna be nothign spraying about. also say to use towels. but I ahve a better solution. fit the waterblocks with ur components installed, then pull out the components, leaving the watercooling in the case. that way u got ur tubing lenght right and everything. Sigh. I will edit this all sometime today. right now im doing sodoku as tibewarz is down.
um... that's not entirely true...Quote:
Originally Posted by MaxxxRacer
ok... within normal conditions that we operate under..
obviously if you have a vaccum in the waterblock the water will vaporize and if you have it at really REALLY REALLY high psi the water will impregnate itself into the metal better, but these extremes are so far off from what we work under that it is pointless and trivial to even mention them.
hmmm... well there's still a lot of testing and stuff to be done on the pressure issue. the QvsdT graph is becoming less useful since waterblock design is varying so much. pH could only get 1.7GPM through the Storm while Cathar's pump was able to get him to 2.5GPM. that's quite a change, due to the pump.
but in all reality you are probably right. the hydraulic power vs dT data doesn't vary all that wildly from the QvsdT graphs. but to say that pressure has zero affect on the system... i dunno... that might mislead a lot of people. that would include me..... until i was disillusioned so abruptly about the importance of flow.
Sigh.. I think you are very confused on this subject.
Here we go.
The pressure that the pump has (max head) is incredibly important (and why stew gets so much better results compared to derek), BUT BUT the actual pressure that the system is running at doesnt matter.
the part that doesnt matter is the water pressure in the system.. this means that if you put the waterblock before, or after 10 feet of tubing, the performance will be the same.
do you get what im saying?
not really... cuz if it didn't matter, why are you constantly recommending that people use the shortest length of tubing?Quote:
Originally Posted by MaxxxRacer
shorter length of tubing means higher flow as there is less tubing that the water has to go through.. tubing = friction... which leads to restriction.. which leads to lower flow rates...
Make sense now?
kinda... i'm just gonna go study some physics n stuff if i get some free time. any links you'd recommend? i found some stuff about Reynolds number and Bernoulli's equation. is there anything else, like basic fundamentals i'm missing? i'm about to read up on it in a bit. it sucks to be considered ignorant lol. i'm really not that dumb, i just haven't researched enough.Quote:
Originally Posted by MaxxxRacer
dont feel bad about it moonlight. most peole dont get it.. and hydrodynamics is decently complicated.
I dont know of any links off hand, but i will check google for something that might help you.
Nice Guide MaxxxRacer, Im building my First 1/2" WC with:
Swiftech Storm
MCW50-T (85w Peltier)
MCP655
Dual Heater Core
5.25" Res
ClearFlex 60
Zerex Fluid
Now, i have a question about the peltier in my system, I dont know if it is going to warm up the water temp, anyway i will turn it only for benchs.
hmmm... i looked it over maxxx. you're still wrong.
oh, and that part about heatercores outperforming purpose-built rads should probably be changed too since there's no evidence to suggest that it's true.
sigh... where do you think I am wrong... guides been checked over by some very intelegent persons who have more knowledge in the areas of thermo and fluid dynamics than I or you, and it all checks out...
so when you can show some sort of proof I will believe you.. but until then you are merely shooting off your mouth.
heatercore with 100+ cfm fans will outperform the purpose built.. atleast as of now
Quote:
Originally Posted by MaxxxRacer
i'm not the only one shooting my mouth off... as it turns out, a more intelligent person than you or i disagrees with you.Quote:
Originally Posted by MaxxxRacer
show me
There's been no testing on either end. Has anyone really tested a 2-302 versus a BIX/II/III versus a thermochill 120.1/2/3 at various flowrates and with various amounts of fannage? No. Therefore, I'm inclined to believe whomever has had the most hands-on experience with various rads (maxxx, weapon, and cathar). Cathar (and weapon, I believe, though seperately from cathar) has been actively developing new radiators that do share some features with both current-gen purpose-built rads and heatercores (lower FPI of heatercores, for example).
However, until there's some solid testing done... to each his own.
cathar has actually done a lot of the testing with the rads. just as with all equipment, there is a point of diminishing returns with regards to airflow through a rad and how it affects temps. so extra airflow, more than 100CFM is kinda pointless. he said somewhere in another post that heatercores aren't necessarily better performing than purpose built rads, and that his research didn't reflect that at all. i'll leave it up to you to find the post as i'm short on time right now. if i have time i'll link it here later if someone else doesn't.
contradict yourself
" In my opinion a pump for watercooling should not be even considered unless it has at least 9 feet of head pressure"
The pressure of the water going through the watercooling loop does NOT in any way matter. ONLY the flow matters"
the head pressure is what determines the flowrate, which is all that matters! sheesh. It isn't that complex.