Follow martins instructions or Naekuhs. with two pumps it is bleedable (not the worlds easiest). With one pump its difficult. Naekuh is correct, removing the insert should increase the flow. I must have air trappd inside my line.
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Follow martins instructions or Naekuhs. with two pumps it is bleedable (not the worlds easiest). With one pump its difficult. Naekuh is correct, removing the insert should increase the flow. I must have air trappd inside my line.
How about, this one..
Pull out your radiator. fill it slowly with the coolant you use, till its completely filled. (some shaking to get the air out. then put the barbs + tubing on it, fill the tubing 2, then get 2 of those plugs on the end of the tubes so you can place the radiator, then bend the tubes so that water cant be spilled connect to the cpu and the resevoir. fill up the rest of the system (res and cpu) and start bleeding from there. It will make it a thousand times easier. I do the same with my quad res thats @ the top of my case, saves so much hassle.
That wouldn't solve the problem though. It would only help if the case was that I had very large air bubbles in my radiator to begin with. I didn't (the high flow rate flushed them out, as it has in my previous loops), the problem is the reservoir is very difficult to bleed so the bubbles just continue to go round the loop instead of escaping through the reservoir, and start to build up in the radiator.Quote:
Originally Posted by neonatas
thats why u leave the left side tap open.Quote:
Originally Posted by Odai
The bubbles fizz out to the left if your left side is open. And it will keep on fizzing until your right side is completely purged.
In a high flow scenario, not sure about low.... the bubbles kept going back into the inlet and the trap only reinforced it.
This is why i said remove the inserts.. because the pressure at which the outlet will shoot the bubbles at, will be sufficient for the inlet to not reintroduce most of them back.
Meh.. i would make a video on it, but i dont have anything which can record.
i am very tempted to try out an automatic bleed valve at the top of my loop link: http://www.householdgoods.com/automa...eed-valve.html
my only reservation is how accurate it is, wil it only let out air? just a tiny anount of water vented out with the air can drip back along the hose and into your components...
does anyone have any experience with theese?
I'm not using a serial setup. :p: Only using one pump atm, second one will be used for a separate loop.Quote:
Originally Posted by NaeKuh
I have mine 100% sealed, with very little bubbles, so it's as good as it gets until koolance comes out with something to put into it, that works properly.
What I did was filled the port on the right, no inserts, 2xmcp655-b's.
had a 12inch hose or so on the right side, and just kept filling , shaking, filling, shaking, making sure all rad's had water, etc. I have it to the point where it's silent for a little bit, then some bubbles emerge, then it goes silent again...happens every 15 minutes or so.
haha, I took a picture ... here's what I did, you really don't need this long of a hose though :
http://vivithemage.com/zen/vivi/600T/P1000084.JPG.php
Yes it will, the entire system will be airfree filled with coolant, and you will only need to fill up your res and top it off, then a 15min run with only pumps, to get rid of those last few bubbles and your done, if there are any left.Quote:
Originally Posted by Odai
Try it
it takes a rediculously long time to purge rads.
i see where all ur problems are now while trying to purge my rad.
It takes time.. a lot of time.. and a lot of topping off.
Makes the most sense to just add a tline at the inlet in the rear and top it off that way tho.
Thats how i had to do it live.. and thats the solution i think im gonna keep.
That's a contradiction, you can't call a system "airfree filled with coolant" when it still has a few bubbles left. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by neonatas
I've tried it in small test loops, and it doesn't work. Like I said, the reservoir's design prevents those few small bubbles from bleeding from the loop. In my case, they just build up in the radiator.
A lot has to do with location of bay res also.
if its in the highest point, its easier to bleed.
If its in the lowest... be prepared to spill a lot of coolant.. :X
NaeKuh is 100% right, the rad was the most pita on my build...not REALLY the res's fault, haha.
I had all but decided on getting this res for my new build but I'll be using a Dimastech Easy bench table which puts the res in the bottom compartment (lowest point in the loop).Quote:
Originally Posted by NaeKuh
Sounds like I need to reconsider, though.
i was seriously tempted to put my dremel internally and try to bore out a bigger hole so i could fit a tube inside or something.
Meh... if u have a Tline @ any inlet... its not that hard to bleed.
If u try to use it as it is.... well.... be prepared to spend a lot of time in front of it.
Have you tried pulling the rad out while connected to allow it to bleed with the ports pointing up?Quote:
Originally Posted by Odai
If air is collecting in the rad plenum, it's simply due to velocities being too low at that point. Velocity is a function of not only flow rate, but also the plenum shape and size. Small tapered type plenum chambers like some radiators are much better at this than large boxy chambers. The larger the chamber the slower the velocity. Simple enough, you don't have enough flow rate to support the chamber design to be self flushing inverted and you're going to have to work with gravity to assist the problem you have created for yourself.
You really NEED to take that rad out and let it set with either the outlet port on the high side or lay the rad with both ports pointing upward while you bleed. The reservoir will bleed, but it can only bleed if air passes by. If the air is stuck in your radiator, you'll have to help it along..:up:
Air won't collect there if the rad was installed in an upright position or if you at least allow it to bleed in a position where the ports point upward. Not all rads or rad installs flush by themselves. Inverted is a problem and I'm pretty sure some rads are better than others in this regard. Just stop and take a look at the various plenum chambers some time and think about it. It's not something any reviews ever talk about, but there is a difference. Small tapered = good, big boxy = bad for inverted installations.
Yup, as I said in my previous post:Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210
:p:Quote:
Originally Posted by Me
It would only work with the larger air bubbles. Those would be really easy to bleed out using the method you and others mentioned (and I tried). But there weren't any big bubbles, they'll have been flushed out like they have on all my previous builds with the radiator in that position. It's just the smaller air bubbles that keep going round the loop and can't bleed from the reservoir.
EDIT: I do have a radiator with a large "boxy" plenum chamber (RX120) going into my VGA loop, but it'll be standing upright.
One pump is the easiest because you can just use the lower reservoir (P1/bottom ports on back). Then leave tanks separate or combine them and ignore the upper tank in/out.Quote:
Originally Posted by matari
Tim
I think I've said this in another thread, but I run with 1 pump in slot #1 (motherboard tray side when in the case), and run the res joined with intake coming into P2, and out (to pump) from P1. It works very well, and after a second run is not terribly difficult to bleed. What took me so long the first time after I realized is my inverted 360 rad was the main problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by Koolance
Tim we could really use a serial plug on the right side.Quote:
Originally Posted by Koolance
As i said.. something to completely block out that chamber when running dual pumps.
Funny tho, is if your running dual pumps, you will have enough head pressure to even push water out the rad provided u have enough water in the res for the incline.
Both of my res's are bleed, however it took a while... a very long while..
Which makes me go back to hugging my koolance tube res. 15-30 seconds TOPS! done.. :D
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...o/IMG_0771.jpg
Incline.. no problem.. inverted rad, no problem... any situation minus getting it to fit inside my case... NO PROBLEM! :rofl:
i bet if i asked it to jump, it would jump, and over exceed my want height even!
Now that is a NICE res. Most definitely fell in love with that guy 10x over.
Awwww, so cute, NaeKuh's in love :p:
Apparantly my english isnt good enuff to explain this to you. But i ment, an air free filled radiator. And yes it takes alot of time, and yes its annoying.Quote:
Originally Posted by Odai
But practice makes perfect. and i always pre-fill my rads before connecting it all. I use plugs at the end of the hoses and i spill like 2 drops when i get the plug out and connect to the next point.( i only have one point open when i connect, so if you kink a hose no water will come out) I end up with a tiny bit of air left, and get it out in a few min.
You can also rotate your case, so your res is at the highest point, connect a tube to fillport , and fill the entire system up, fill up as far as you can go, turn on the pumps, keep filling it up threw the tube, and make sure you dont fill up to fast, air needs to be able to escape threw the tube your using to fill. Its a damn shame, you dont live close to me, i would love to show you how to do it.
I understand what you mean, but it doesn't work for me. Like you said, there is a little bit of air left (impossible to hook up a system with absolutely no air left in it), and that air forms in to bubbles which stay in the loop instead of bleeding from the reservoir. In my case, as the radiator was at the top of the loop and is inverted, them simply built up in there (probably the inlet/outlet chambers).
I did try leaving the pump running for hours when the radiator was not attached to the case, but the bubbles remained. As they've now probably lodged themselves in the radiator, it's not causing any issues. Before, they seemed to be in the pump volute, causing a lot of sound whenever the pump started.
Just posting updates to some of these RP bleed posts: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...110&page=7#158
Thanks for posting the update, it's admirable a manufacturer offers free fixes like these to solve problems with the designs of their products. :)
However, from what I can tell, doesn't this simply solve the issue of the high inlet in the upper reservoir?
The bleeding problems described in this thread still remain don't they, especially with the lower reservoir (which does not get modified)?
The top reservoir was difficult to bleed because air bubbles were being pushed down (by the inlet) and sucked in by the outlet. This bleed kit disrupts that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Odai
You are also having issues with the lower/left reservoir (P1)? The reservoir coolant level is well above both ports on the left, but we've had no issues even with the serial acrylic connector placed into the bottom.
Tim