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This is everything that comes in the envelope. So uh where does everything go? http://smiliesftw.com/x/tounged.gif
http://hostthenpost.org/uploads/5728...af61c70e79.jpg
If the completed PCB's are going to be on sale soon I might as well not attempt to (and likely destroy) to do the soldering myself. Hopefully he will have versions available capable of more than 12V.
No more sanyo pcb + ddc anymore? I was going to buy one. =(
Why? It says "more than 10 available" on EbayQuote:
Originally Posted by Boogerlad
a review from russia:):clap:
http://people.overclockers.ru/AlexT/record3
http://img688.imageshack.us/img688/7761/204876.png
not with the modified sanyo pcb preinstalled =(Quote:
Originally Posted by @lex
does http://cgi.ebay.com/Laing-DDC-water-...4#ht_914wt_932 work on ddc 3.1 blue impeller too?
How about this?Quote:
Originally Posted by Boogerlad
Why not... :yepp:Quote:
Originally Posted by Boogerlad
DDC3.x copper coil wire has larger diameter and the location is different than DDC2 and DDC1.Quote:
Originally Posted by Boogerlad
Only the Toshiba TB6588FG can use, and also need to extend the copper coil wire to the location which is designed for DDC2/1.
The DDC3 10W and 18W has the same copper coil wire diameter. The speed is depend on the copper coil wire diameter, so they will run at the same speed. And it's near 30W:eek:, the maximum current rating of Toshiba TB6588FG:cool:
So is there still plans to release a pre soldered board using the Toshiba chip?
I'd gladdly pay extra money if the pcb was already soldered onto the ddc pump. I just don't have the time to solder it myself.Quote:
Originally Posted by SpuTnicK
I hear that. Not just the time but the tools or know-how. Reflowing isn't exactly an easy solder job.Quote:
Originally Posted by Boogerlad
Quote:
Originally Posted by lowfat
LINK :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Boogerlad
Only $5 more! Ordered....
wizard1238
I suspect you are the man behind those DDC repair kits or very close to its production.;)
We need some clarification on whether this kit is suitable for DDC3.x pump repair. The coil wire length problem can be easily solved. But is there something else that should be taken into consideration?
There are some reports that this "blue" kit does not work with DDC3.x pumps - controller get burned or even if it works, the overheat safety feature restarts the pumps every 3 sec. Not sure what revision it was, the first one or the second one (with pre-soldered elements).
Can you tell me there this needs to be soldered on to the PCB?Quote:
Originally Posted by wizard1238
this board is designed for the black and purple rotor DDC1/DDC2, use in the blue rotor DDC3 is left for diyer to play:p: The extended wire may have chance to short circuit the board, it should be very careful. When using with blue rotor DDC3.x and stock top at full speed, the current is about 2.1A, it's still within the safety limit of this chip(1.5A typ. 2.5A max) Use with aftermarket top is 2.35A, I would recommend connect a resistor between VSP and Vref to reduce the current.Quote:
Originally Posted by SpuTnicK
1. if the pump restarts every 3 sec, most likely the TB6588FG need to be resolder:yepp: it cannot read the feedback signal from the coil. it's very common.
2. the toshiba burn immediately if the leg short circuit/bridging due to soldering problem. remember to wear safety glass, the chip can explode when connecting power. Page 8 of this document have the information, it is available in english but only can found in toshiba japan web.
http://www.semicon.toshiba.co.jp/doc..._en_090317.pdf
There are many things to consider when mod the board, the official datasheet and circuit is available at the toshiba semiconductor web site for xtreme modder to enjoy.Quote:
Originally Posted by lowfat
Interesting. From the pictures I thought you would have to solder the surface mount ic as well which seemed insane.
i have a burnt pump that ide like to repair but the soldered tips look as if they are on the inner side (towards the center) of the pcb. Will this kit work with this version pump? Could i use this (Laing DDC pump 18W repair kit SMT soldered MCP355) also?
edit: just checked model
Type: DDC-1plus T
DC 12V 18W TF 60
Found this video on disassembling of DDC pumps with that compensator expansion chamber that are apparently the same ones sold by diyinhk:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OqaiiC27PB8
instaled 10w board with blue impeller
but not with stock top
on 12v pump starts and then some of phases shuts down(i think the toshiba ic just overheating)
on 5v pump works and bottom of the pump is quet hot.
cka3o4nuk
any photo or video or both would be great!
I know where an ample supply of DDC-1, DDC-1T pumps are available with the black impeller. :cool: The pumps are surplus "new", never used, never rejects with the 50,000K run life fully intact.Quote:
Originally Posted by wizard1238
This would help anyone wanting to convert a pump from a 10W to the 30W powerhouse.
can anyone report back on here if they have had any success with these pcb's as a replacement? i have 2 of these pumps that ide like to DIY repair and would really like some feedback. - not into modding for better performance really, just want these running again. thanks in advance.
of course it work, only depend on the diyer's skillQuote:
Originally Posted by glide 1
there are 5 version before the blue one, many $$ in developing, is it too serious for this small diy product...
actually, it work from the 1st version, but more idea come out one by one to improve...so...
http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/9...g0129resiz.jpg
Hi all,
I don't understand if there's a PCB repair/mod kit (soldered) for my Laing DDC-1T 3.1 modded to 3.2 with blue impeller/rotor?
Those're my laing pics:
http://www.pctunerup.com/up/results/..._0246copia.jpg
http://www.pctunerup.com/up/results/...17115705_3.jpg
Thanks for answer