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Most supplies are more efficient running the higher voltage, yes, but they need to actually be 220/240v compatible. If you plug a 110/120v only unit into 22/240v ... well it'll probably be pretty, what with all the nice flashy sparkles but it won't do your system any good.
Almost all PC power supplies can do 240V. Just if you have a non-PFC unit you need to make sure to flip the switch on the back.
240VAC is cheaper to run...Remember...Power=Voltage x Current
yea but Power = Watts. and Watts is what the meter measures. the only thing the higher voltage does is lower the amps required.Quote:
Originally Posted by DAK1640
It is a PSU thing ....Most recent Psu's are more efficient when using 240v (I've seen comparative charts but I don't remember where) I seem to remember a figure of around 2%
W=I*V in dc circuits only, The power factor of an ac circuit will influence the efficiency
Yeah, I kinda' figured that much.:smoke:Quote:
Originally Posted by D_A
I didn't realize there were non-PFC units without a switch on them.:shrug: I have a couple really old 150 watt psu's with switches. Massive 5A on the 12V rail.Quote:
Originally Posted by SparkyJJO
So, you've purchased new power cords for your 240vac compatible power supplies or replaced the plug ends with an appropriate end to fit one of these? (Actually, can the original 120vac cords even handle 240vac if you replaced the plug end? The one in my hand says 300V on it:shrug:)Quote:
Originally Posted by DAK1640
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/f...Receptacle.jpg
I was asking in this context.;)Quote:
Originally Posted by gongo
Edit: I probably should have started my own thread for this. Sorry. /Edit
It is AMPS that spins that meter...:up:
Don't most households already have 240v? Just look behind your stove. Chances are it's plugged into a 3-prong 240v terminal.
http://www.generatordepot.us/images/Pro2-outlets.jpg
No... actually it is watts. You get billed by the kilowatt-hour.Quote:
Originally Posted by DAK1640
You can cut the amp draw in half by doubling volts (Power = Volts x Amps). The savings is not because of the amp draw being cut, but because things are a little more efficient at a higher voltage. You don't have quite as many losses from wire resistance and such.
If it was the same efficiency, you would gain nothing by going to 240V from 120V.
Its more like a pasture instead of a farm:p:
Dual i7's @ 4.2ghz, 2x gtx295's need another PSU to add more gpus.
http://i47.tinypic.com/2co229x.jpg
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/f...rail_ninja.gif Sorry for derailing this thread. I knew I should have started a separate thread, or PMs.
Felt I should at least include a pic of my humble "farm".
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/f...armresized.jpg
Far left: E3110 dual core - gamer, sorry, I don't crunch with it
Middle: i7 920 - crunched for a week at 200 x 20, currently testing at 200 x 21 - latest addition
Right: Q9550 - 450 x 8.5 - been cranking away for ~7 months now
Not quite visible: dead P35 board - I think the NB is cooked - all components test good on another board, can't pass memtest no matter what on the P35, trying to decide if I even want to bother with RMA
so pulsar, if you get 8 friend to be your neighbour, you can grow your pasture by 2 feet square.
Most do have that switch. But I saw a PSU once that was just 120V only... granted it was a very cheap pile of crap and I doubt that any of us would run into one of those, but they exist.Quote:
Originally Posted by my87csx481
My comment was mostly a reminder about the little red switch on the non-PFC PSUs so that hopefully nobody would just plug one into 240V without switching it.
Yes they can, the insulation is more than enough to handle 240V.Quote:
(Actually, can the original 120vac cords even handle 240vac if you replaced the plug end? The one in my hand says 300V on it:shrug:)
Thanks SparkyJJO for the clarifications.
Wait, can you just replace the plug end to get 240V? I am confused.
No, you need a different plug end so that it will fit in the 240v outlet. The plug itself does nothing special, it's just a different shape.
Checkout some of the farms in this thread at ExtremeOverclocking.com.
Sweet jeebus! :eek:
Some nice farms over there, I am inspired...
Also the tutorial section in the front is nice too, I wish I had the time, experience and data to type something like that up.
When I crunch my system turns off. Working with Supermicro on it, but until then no farm for me. :) What the hell good is a server motherboard that you can't use under sustained CPU load?
Wut? Seriously?
Oh wait till Dave sees this.. he's gonna give his buddy at SM "a call" and you will be flooded with new bios releases in no time :ROTF:
Indeed. The problems began when I swapped my H8DAE-2 for an H8DAi+-F. I suspected PSU at first, but I replaced the PCPC Silencer 750 with a Seasonic X-750 and the problems persisted. I've swapped GPUs, reinstalled Windows, and added more cooling as well. Since I know all the equipment was working fine on the previous board and the problems started when I changed out for the newer model, I'm left with little to suspect other than the motherboard. Based on that reasoning, I determined that it is very likely Supermicro's problem and have begun email support with them.
If he can nudge them to send me the latest H8DAi+-F BIOS, I'd be happy to try it. :) They had to send me one last November or December (dated 11/29/09) to fix a PCI routing table error that presents when the IOMMU feature was enabled. They've yet to post any to their website after the first revision (b139, circa early October). The board also screws up when I have my Das Keyboard attached. It also has a tendency to overclock itself to an HT ref of 416 MHz on some boots. It's all sorts of quirky.
The shutdown problem is weird, too. It doesn't just shut off, BSOD, or reboot or something like that. A total shut down I could explain as possible PSU overload protection. A reboot or BSOD I could explain as instability. Instead, the GPUs shut off, the USB controllers shut off, and it appears that the motherboard in general powers down. However, the heartbeat light continues to pulse, all fans and hard drives remain on, etc. The system pulls about 100W (versus 460W normal idle) and cannot be shut off by holding in the power button nor reset using the reset switch. It must be outright unplugged and left to sit until all power dissipates and all LEDs shut off. Short of waiting that long, it'll remain non-functional after power is restored.
Looks like the boards goes into hiberate mode for some odd reason, but it should also shut off hdds and fans then.
Weird, tried RMAing the board yet?
It's definitely not like hibernation or sleep mode. It's kind of hard to describe. The GPU fans stay on for instance but the red non-initialized lights kick on on the back like you see early during POST on ATI video cards.
heres my pharm....