@Moguy
Spec, Rad, pump, Tubing, room temp, ?
I think your using 3x 5850HS + 3x MCW60 ( so your running 3Fire )
@Moguy
Spec, Rad, pump, Tubing, room temp, ?
I think your using 3x 5850HS + 3x MCW60 ( so your running 3Fire )
Went from DTek GFX 2 with ram sinks to MCW60 with "unisink". With active airflow. VRMs went from 70s to high 40's in Furmark. This is at 1000Mhz Core, 1300mhz ram 1.187v flashed with Asus bios and using MSI Afterburner for voltage. Core still loads up to about 37c, idle 25c. Gabe - thanks for bringing this product to the market!! I'd rather use my core GPU blocks and pickup a $28 unisink every generation!
http://3dxtreme.net/other/HD5870%20u...280x768%5d.JPG
http://3dxtreme.net/other/HD5870%20u...280x768%5d.JPG
http://3dxtreme.net/other/HD5870%20u...1600x1200].JPG
@boulard83
I use juste one HD5850, my core i5 is watercooled but it run at idle when i launch furmark, I have a 240 rad and a 120 rad.
My pump is a DDC 10 W and my room temp is 25°, the HD5850 isn't overclock and the tubing is in 10/13 :)
EDIT : My HD5850 doesn't benefit of a direct airflow, my case doesn't have a good airflow (just 2 kaze jyuni at 500RPM for the 240 rad in front, a 120 rad in push pull of kase jyuni behind the case and a noctua NF-P12 at the top which is controlled by speedfan to run when the processor is too hot :)
Thank you for interesting to my problem ;)
so ive been trying to find a solution to getting these dang thermal pads off the vrms for better temps as stated by the new instruction manual but i cannot for the life of me get a solution to get the sticky substance off, ive tried acetone and brake cleaner, neither have worked to well. What have you guys used?
I think you need better fan/speed for better temp. 500rpm is too slow for a radiator. The minimum to reach correct dissipation VS noise is ~1000rpm. This can vary from a fan model to another but its a good base line.Quote:
Originally Posted by Moguy
Slipstreams are not very good on rads, Vapor proved this in his testing.
I had split stream on my TFC360. Switching to Gentle typhoon gave my 1°c on water temp for the same fan speed. Split arnt BAD but there are better fans for rads. Maybe splits are bad with very high FPI rad.
@Moguy
EN : To reach nice VRM's temp you will need to actively cool the vrm. Add a 120mm fan that blow to the heatsink.
FR : Pour avoir de belle température sur tes VRMS tu aurras besoin de les refroidire activement. Ajoute une 120mm qui pousse directement sur le refroidisseur.
Thought twas Martin who tested them? Ahh well, you're right in the end, slipstreams aren't great for rads at all.Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterlogged
If I remember correctly, they had a tendency to lose CFM over time (fast), and started making funny noises :down:.
Its not a problem of a too hot water, when the system is idle, the water is cold and the GPU temp 2 go over 80°C in just 10 second, so the water haven't done one loop in the circuit.
We need a pic (preferably a good one) of your loop.Quote:
Originally Posted by Moguy
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=193126Quote:
Originally Posted by Alexandr0s
:up: Fair nuff', you got me :p:.Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterlogged
This is the picture :
http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/5544/watercooling.jpg
I have stick some memory radiator on the HD5850 vrm for a little dissipate heat.
As i told. speed up your fan 2x120mm on the front to at least 1000rpm.
You tried to reseat your block ? and what kind of paste are your using on the GPU ?
For the VRM you need to add a fan that blow to the heatsink.
I get an antec tricool set to high speed on the vrm and I set to 12V my kase jyuni (they run at 800rpm at 12V), my thermometer measure 33°C on the HD5850-HS, but the vrm where to 100°C (in OCCT)
The GPU temp 2 was stabilized to 80°C on furmark and 90°C on OCCT
For the vrm, I think that the contact is poor.
But for the GPU temp 2, I don't know.
I used the arctic ceramique that is with the waterblock.
Moguy, Your problem is 3 fold.
1. Weak fans.
2. What air you have going through the rads is pretty much all warm air.
3. The air that is getting through the 240 rad is getting even warmer and blowing directly on your video card making the air cooled heat sinks even warmer.
You can start to fix the problem with better static pressure fans for the rads and getting fresh air through the entire 240.
100c is damn high even for kinda poor ventilation. I think you need to reseat everything FIRST and improve your airflow. (better fans)
Its not a probleme of airflow, a antec tricool set to high speed and a open case is suffisant for cooling the vrm.
My prob measure 33°C on the radiator, so I think the contact is poor like gabe say before.
I don't know where is the GPU temp 2 (name of a measure on GPU-Z), if this is a part of the GPU, I think the waterblock is not good mounted.
If this is a part of the pcb that is cooled by the HD5850-HS, I think this is like the vrm and the contact is poor.
:stick:Quote:
Originally Posted by Boulard83
I remove the heat sink, and the thermal pad don't do a good contact with two memory chip :
http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/3...ercooling2.jpg
I apply thermal paste on the vrm and on the chip which don't do a good contact.
Now the temperatures are realy better :
The vrm don't go over 80°C on OCCT without any airflow ( vs 100°C with antec tricool set to high) but the gpu temp 2 continue to go to 80°C.
I hoped that the GPU temp 2 where the ram chip who don't do a good contact but apparently not :(
You correctly applyed paste on the GPU block too ?
Yes I applied the thermal past on to totality of the aera of the GPU.
I think the GPU temp 2 is a another component of the graphic card.
And the GPU temp 3 is also hot but just to 70°C so I don't know wath are this component :confused:
Heatsink looks great, just what i need for vrm cooling.
But i cant find any resellers in EU that have it in stock :(
Any suggestions?
Thanks.
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swhdhecotomc1.htmlQuote:
Originally Posted by bratka
they ship international too...