Hum sorry, my first picture was wrong, here is the correct position of the component on the PCB:
http://free0.hiboox.com/images/5009/...e980e61421.jpg
Printable View
Hum sorry, my first picture was wrong, here is the correct position of the component on the PCB:
http://free0.hiboox.com/images/5009/...e980e61421.jpg
I saw your clocks in 2 different GPU-Z pics, and one was at 550MHz MAX and the other at 725MHz MAX, which is way below stock, and stock. You need to compare apples to apples if your gonna compare temps to others, I think you need to bump up voltage and overclock.Quote:
Originally Posted by Scaniris
The component that doesn't make contact with the block; I don't think it is for insulating purposes, it's an inductor, which might get kinda hot, maybe not as hot as the voltage regulators though.
The clocks you saw are not maximum values but only current values at the moment I made the screen shot, as you can see in my comment the 1st screen shot is BEFORE the benchmark and as you know the clock speed of the second GPU is automatically adapted to the real load. Usually in 2D mode it's running at 175MHz...Its a stock feature, as claimed by ATI to reduce idle and 2d power consumption, and this one works perfectly until you play with Overdrive... and some other stuffs that may provoke (some candidates but no winner for the moment) the stability issues...
But have a look on the second screen shot DURING the benchmark, the frequency of BOTH gpu is 725MHz ;) Having a look on the MSI monitoring displays same information. Second screen shot of my post.
http://free0.hiboox.com/images/5009/...1873704630.png
So both GPU's are running at stock frequencies, no problem with that, I can see that live on my G15 LCD display during gaming, I compare apples with apples within my system, but for sure I have to make some OC to compare temperatures. This is a starting point and I didn't want to OC my card before making sure that components will be safely cooled.
Then ... I'll make OC but moderately... because driver issues... OMG I had to make a fresh install of windows, I was fed up with system crash (have a look there: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...55#post4150955 )
For the famous component with a thermal pad but no contact with the waterblock: let's wait Eddy's answer about it :) If he does not see this topic, I'll send him an email next week.
The picture you made and show NO, there must be thermal pad.Quote:
Originally Posted by Scaniris
You should definitely have it there.
BTW, you scan use 40% of the grease on the GPU, or even less.
1ten percent... that's crazy!
OMG I'm sorry you're right... next time I'll double check on the manual... I was working non stop during more than 30 hours (without sleeping) and I think I was not waken enough when I saw on the manual thermal pads where they are not required...
Here is the proof of my mistake:
http://free0.hiboox.com/images/5009/...d9e696d4ca.png
Sorry for the wrong information, it's not necessaty to put thermal pads where I wrote ''it's here'' on my last photo.:shakes:Terribly sorry for that... :(
So I have thermal pads evrywhere I need, and more :)
Concerning the thermal paste, I was disappointed because it's more fluent than the old one I used. The MX3 is really liquid, I mean compared with the ArcticSilver 5 and surely with the Arctic Ceramique... It looks like ''too much'' but... is there any problem? Because my temps are pretty good isn't it? Do I have to remove the waterblock, clean the thermal paste and put new one but less?
On the processor... I only put a very small nut of the same grease, it's working perfectly. So you're right it's too much, but I don't see any negative effect (and remember I order 3x MX3 units... I have enough for this year I hope ^^)
Here the thermal compound recommandations on the manual:
http://free0.hiboox.com/images/5009/...bd6fd47b39.png
best way to apply thermal compound is a thin surface covering the hole core. i usually apply a small point of thermal grease and then spread it with a credit card or something like that.
I did this with my old coumpound, with the card of my video club ^^. But since Arcticsilver and Ceramique, I followed the instructions on their website and the result was perfect http://www.arcticsilver.com/pdf/appi..._quad_wcap.pdf
And finally here for the MX3, the instruction is a small point, then pressing the waterblock or radiator exchange surface on it, turn some degrees to the left and to the right and that's all. Because cores on Quad core CPUs are located in the middle and finally thermal paste is there only to fill the gaps. well... on the GPU I don't know how this works, that why I put some more thermal compound...
Finally I don't think there is a ''best way'', I think there is a target that we have to achieve: filling the gap, the empty spaces to have better contact possible. Many ways certainly to reach the target.
I received my EK 5970 block today (nickel/plexi, my favorite) and I've really enjoyed it so far.
Pros:
The new packaging is really nice. Minor point but it still was nice.
3 Different thermal pads. The memory thermal pads were pre-cut and very easy to install. The other thermal pads were easily attachable.
Standoffs. I really liked the little standoffs and it made for a perfect fit once on. It feels extremely solid and as straight as an arrow.
Black screws! Great change compared to the silver metal looking ones of the past. Great change there.
1 extra of each screw. Always nice to have 1 extra. I would have liked to see one extra spacer, but no big deal there.
I'm currently testing the performance right now but so far it's been a pleasant experience.
Just saw the results on the DD 5970 crossfire build at the other forum:
Set VCORE to 1.3V , Mem at max ATI Overvolt tool setting 1.15V
Set GPU @1000MHz and DDR @ 1300MHz
Ran Furmark at 1680x1050 8x AA for 30 mins
Max VRM/VDDC temps were 54C. The GPUS topped out at 52C and the i7 920 hit 60C
I didn't even think you could do this with a 3x120mm radiator :shrug:
Link
Does the EK 5970 block come with a backplate?
Or do you just use the stock one.
Well as far as I know ATM the EK5970 waterblock I have didn't come with a back plate and use's the stock one. But I hope truly hope Eddy does bring one out. He did with the EK5850 and EK5870 and look great. Pics of the EK5850/5870.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...35#post4156435
Hello,
It's the stock one. No backplate delivered with the EKWB waterblock. For information, this would be useless because the waterblock is removing so many heat from the card that the backplate that you can see is not really hot in association with wb, only a little bit warm that's all, compared with the stock rad. The backplate helps to avoid curving of the pcb, and also act as radiator for the memories (thermal pads between memories and this black back plate).
Performance are very impressive. It's really a dream for overclockers. With the 480mm rad, nothing more than 45°C for the GPU and 51°C for the VRM @ full load @ stock clock speed. Let's say the margin for OC... is good isn't it? ;)
From looking at the installation manual you use the stock backplate.Quote:
Originally Posted by Apollo4g
No backplate with the block.
But we are about to make same style as with 5850/5870 block backplate.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddy_EK
Backplate should have been made already and sold with the block imo.
Why? To increase the price for something absolutely not necessary? I prefer to have it as an option and be able to choose if I want it of not. Like for the GTX295 blocks.
... or send it for free to those who already got the 5970 WB :D
I am still SO confused on which block to get between the EK, BP, Koolance or DD. Currently running an I7 at 4/Apogee GTZ/PA120.3. I want to add my 5970 without a second rad for now. Any suggestions? Not meaning to go OT or anything but looks like there is some great info/users in this thread.
Quote:
Originally Posted by lowdog
Afterall its free advertising in the Work Logs for those systems with a horizontal card orientation.
Hi guys,
I was wondering if someone could tell me the best possible block for these 5970's? I'm currently looking at the Aqua blocks, but I just wanted to check the with guys that are in the know :) I have been reading that its the VRM's that are causing the problems, not the cores giving the temp problems.
Before dropping the cash on to possibly 3 blocks, I'd like to make sure I'm getting the right one :)
From what Ive read EK seem to be the best at the moment, because of all the VRM cooling dispute, but my guess is they will all perform pretty well, within maybe a degrees difference at most. Personally I've got a koolance and with a 320 rad it doesnt go above 50 full load with noctuna's, stays at 45 full load with Delta fans on :P
Right mate, thank you for the reply :)
Do you have any screen shots showing the GPU speeds, temps etc? Looks like the EK block it is then :)
EK and Danger Den are both good from what I've seen. Heard of some high VRM temps with the Koolance block...