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i like your heatkiller block :)
One question: Do you really need mosfet and ram coolers on the back of the 4870x2? i didnt order any of those.. and im not thinking of using any either. Will this cause problems? what do you think?
Also, i have the exact same blocks! only black n silver cpu block. Cant wait to see more of your project here :)
Nice job on removing those metal struts!
Lol, you have the same hose cutter as me :P
Definetely it is, 100% agree :DQuote:
Originally Posted by CptDreadFlint
thanks :cool:Quote:
Originally Posted by The Viking
I don't think so, I just love how this copper hedgehogs look on the back of my card :D
you can use stock black cover too.
Cheers :) And thank you, I didn't knew how to call this strutsQuote:
Originally Posted by eponymous
This cutter is pretty nice, I coudn't stand and already tryed it :rofl:
Awesome pics mate. Nice parts too :)
Worked on the project for a few days and finished so late in the night that didn't had any time to post here :) but was making pictures during the process of course
First of all thank you twwen2, appreciate your feedback :up:
Lets start with so-called chromed parts.
http://img691.imageshack.us/img691/407/img5081.jpg
I went to sandblasting service on Tuesday (actually it was powdercoating station, but they have sandblaster too) and guy there said that this parts are not chromed just made of steel and extremely well polished. He could take this job but said: "I am not going to make money from you for such small order. I can do this but minimal price would be around $26 - it is stupid waste of money". Well, I leave them as they are. Also he adviced me good spray paint that they use for minor defect fixing after powdercoating.
That evening I armed myself with a sandpaper and cleaned UN bracket.
As appeared OCZ XTC has strange copper colored stuff under the upper layer (any ideas on this?) so I've just sanded it a little.
http://img695.imageshack.us/img695/3254/img5076.jpg
http://img44.imageshack.us/img44/9310/img5072xc.jpg
Adapted Lian Li rad brackets for 140mm fans. It was pretty easy but when I've finally tryed to mount the rad inside it stucked to those metal struts in upper part of drive bays, had to remove second pair too.
http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/9377/img5089z.jpg
http://img695.imageshack.us/img695/3655/img5093.jpg
Yesterday when I got back from the office I've started to drill like crazy and disassembled case to the particles. 35 parts total.
Tryed to save all rivet positioning to my camera but anyway eponymous, Winston don't wonder if I will ask you for help to assemble my case back :D
http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/2888/img5103.jpg
Picked good camouflage for the case, "no $400 Lian-li, just crappy $100 Thermaltake" :rofl:
Still wondering how I managed to do this, had to cut this box a little though.
http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/3937/img5108edit.jpg
So today in the morning case went to powdercoaters :woot: Hopefully they'll do everything neat and tidy, I am to get it back on Tuesday or Wednesday next week.
Hardware announcement
Noiseblocker released new 140mm fans BlackSilentPRO PK1-3 ranged from 700 to 1700rpm. Looks pretty good IMO and must be very silent and of good quality, rubber gaskets included.
May be I'll sent my current Yates to the front door and buy 4 PK2s (or PK3s) for Rad and top exhaust - want to replace stock LED fans anyway because of their poor sound quality
http://www.noiseblocker.de/en/en_ima...entpro_pk2.jpg
================================ Worklog progress part is over ================================
Offtopic part starts :D
When I came out of the office today in the evening I was literally shocked :eek: Do not have windows near my workplace and didn't knew what had happened outside
http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/9518/img5122edit.jpg
Winter has come to Moscow :)
Wrote this post yesterday but had some Wimax problems, so just put your time one day back to understand it ;)
hehe christmas time
Some fantastic work here. Those brackets look great and seem to be doing the job for the PA140.3 perfectly.
Just let me know if you have any questions about the case assembly and I'll try to help. I can maybe take photos of parts of the case if you're having trouble working out what goes where :)
Really nice update, aka :up: Thanks for the heads up on the Noiseblocker 140 fans - looks like a great option.
Thanks also for sharing the Snow picture -must have been quite a surprise when you left your office.
Brackets will look even better after coating ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by eponymous
And thank you very much indeed!
Thanks, you are welcome :)Quote:
Originally Posted by shazza
Be sure I was, I had low summer shoes on my feet and it was nearly 5cm of snow around me :D
Are you really shocked that its snow in Moscow.... really?
No doubt winter comes every year, but what would you think if you come to office (or somewhere else) and there is nice day and when you come out there is snow and wind around you, like you was inside for 2 weeks at least? :)Quote:
Originally Posted by eXa
Also this year winter came earlier than usual
Since the case was sent to powdercoaters and will be totally black, I think it's high time to present the name and conception of my build. Pieces of the puzzle finally came together in my head :)
It is called
Project Black Copper
name is not so outstanding but it exists in my head for 2 weeks already and not going to go out of it.
So the main idea is in the following points:
1) Motherboard is the center of PC, everything else (rad, pump, case itself) just serves MB area. According to this - no lights and colors in supply area, it should be like in the shadow.
2) Only MB is lighted by white LED strip (Lamptron probably) that fits MB width.
3) Blue color is for connection lines (wires, tubes).
4) Chrome or gray color should be avoided.
Don't you think I am too serious about this? :shrug::D
Morning flush session
http://img44.imageshack.us/img44/318/img5194o.jpg
http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/3378/img5205t.jpg
Secret life of bubbles :D
http://img682.imageshack.us/img682/1984/img5212.jpg
Hopefully 40 minutes under hot tap water is enough.
And also no leaks with this barbs and 1/2" ID hose - good :cool:
Nice update and sweet snow picture! It's going to be a killer build =)
Make sure you get all that nasty flux out :P
It took me two months of flushing to get mine clean and that was a combination of vinegar, shower flushing and long soaks.
thanks :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Anemic
Hey mate, I guess now you know everything about flushing, would you be so kind to answer my questions? ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by eponymous
1. Is it completely safe to flush rad like this with HOT tap water?
2. How can I decide where I should stop flushing?
Hot tap water is perfectly fine :) I like to do a flush with distilled/deionized before use however.Quote:
Originally Posted by aka_GK
The way I decided when flushing was no longer was needed was by doing this:
1. Fill the rads with hot tap water.
2. Leave to stand for 48 hours.
3. Empty out half of the water.
4. Shake the rads vigorously and carefully for 3-4 mins.
5. Empty out into a pint glass and check colour of the water.
6. If the water is perfectly clear then you don't need to flush any more.
Hope this helps!
Hot tap water is fine, but I probably wouldn't leave it in your blocks for long. Tap is filled with various minerals that *could* react with the metal in the blocks.Quote:
Originally Posted by aka_GK
Definitely use distilled for the final flush (I would do it at least two-three times.) And if you're running water in your loop instead of Feser or some other coolant, use distilled.
eponymous, Xion thank you guys!
I've reposted this log in russian community and they said that flushing with hot tap will lead to creation of oxide film on copper tubes and will waste the rad, is it right?
They're going to have water in them anyway at some point so there's no need to worry.Quote:
Originally Posted by aka_GK
The fact that the water is hot shouldn't make any difference to the corrosion process. Things like salt in the water would however.
Also, the Thermochill rads have brass cores as far as I know.
Flushing with hot tap is fine, but again, I would flush with distilled almost immediately afterwards.Quote:
Originally Posted by aka_GK
eponymous is right. It's the chemicals in the water that are the concern. Not the temperature of it. Tap contains lots of various chemicals that distilled doesn't that can react in different ways to different metals. It's just safer not to subject your parts to it for long.
Thanks guys, I've got the idea! You are huge help to me :up:
And yes, eponymous, you are right, my TC has brass cores.
Congratulations on your build so far GK, looks excellent.
I am glad you chose to powder coat the inside of your case, I feel it will finish it off nicely.
Looking forward to seeing your case after powder coated.
Thank you :)Quote:
Originally Posted by kgtiger
Hopefully I'll take it back tomorrow :cool:
realy nice and detailed project. I look forward to the end :up: