Coolit Boreas - trying to carry on where CornerJack left off

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Originally Posted by flak-spammer

SteveRo, how many Boreas systems do you actually have at your disposal? I seem to recall hearing that you had three but so far I've only seen two of them.

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I only have one boreas.
I have been thinking about adding a 2nd and putting them in series but there is complications - this from the (most helpful) folks at coolit -

""So I have some questions -

1. Can I take the little metal shelf off the side of the boreas w/o disrupting the tec and water block below it? See picture above. Do I need to be careful backing off the bolts and retightening?

2. Perhaps this is an obvious question - is two Boreas better than one? I'm thinking about putting two Boreas in series just prior to the cpu block.

3. Has anyone tried this before?

4. Can you use one mtec controller to use two Boreas to cool one cpu?

5. Where can I get just the barebones Boreas - meaning no mtec, no pump and no block?

6. The Boreas barebones would need to include the cabling to connect the Boreas to the mtec controller.

Thanks ahead of time for your help.


Alllrighty then...

1. The 'feet' for the Boreas aren't attached to anything important so yes you can take them off w/ out hurting anything. Keep in mind that its good to have the Boreas off the ground/floor so the fans can pull air through the whole heatsink and not just the top and sides.

2. Two Boreas are better than one. You'll see one of two things... either you can add twice the heat to the loop and maintain the same temps or you will reduce the temps of the loop while keeping the heatload constant. There are some installation intricacies involved.. see below

3. I don't have anyone doing them in series but I have some people doing 1 Boreas on the CPU an another on their 3 GPU's. Yes, they are happy

4. No, two Boreas will pull too much power across the PCB. There are two ways around this:
i) Two MTECs: you can't use two MTEC's at once because the software doesn't know which one to talk to but you create a setpoint for one MTEC (for the boreas you are least concerned about) and then unplug it and it will remember its setting. Then you plug in the other one and use it for temp reporting/control like you normally would. I have a couple of guys who do this with their GPU Boreas, setting a coolant target 15C higher than their idle coolant temp so its quiet when they aren't gaming and cold when they game.
ii) The other options whichs sounds more like what you will do is to just give the second Boreas straight power which means its going to blast all the time. If you want to do this, let us knwo and we'll help you with the power adapter cable you'll need to connect straight to your PSU

5. Direct from coolit - contact shawn.bouvier@coolitsystems.com or jon.stanley@coolitsystems.com

6. well... we'll connect it to something for you

ps. Be concious of your power requirements, each Boreas can pull ~140W at full blast
pss. If you are running more than 5C below ambient, be wary of condensation."

It just occurred to me - another interesting test for a multi boreas set up - is two boreas better in series or parallel?
From a boreas parallel vs series test can we draw any conclusions regarding the ongoing low vs high flow controversy?

I just wanted to say I am very interested in all you are doing. I have a E8600 at 4.5Ghz. I would guess if I used this Boreas it would run much cooler than your i7.

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Originally Posted by Froggy

I just wanted to say I am very interested in all you are doing. I have a E8600 at 4.5Ghz. I would guess if I used this Boreas it would run much cooler than your i7.

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Yes, 2 threads and at only 1.36v - you would need to be careful that you did not set the Boreas too low and get condensation.
Go no lower than ~20C and you would be fine.
If you insulated your board as if you where going to phase then the sky is the limit!

Just had a thought....

What about using a swiftech thermo-electric cpu block? :confused::up:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/55...ocket_775.html

better or worse?

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Originally Posted by Breathless

Just had a thought....

What about using a swiftech thermo-electric cpu block? :confused::up:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/55...ocket_775.html

better or worse?

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In at least one way, worse. The coolit design prevents condesation from occuring so you don't have to insulate your mobo socket. The swiftech model will go sub-ambient during idle CPU times.

Also it's direct die meaning you can only cool one thing instead of possibly your whole loop.

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Originally Posted by Breathless

Just had a thought....

What about using a swiftech thermo-electric cpu block? :confused::up:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/55...ocket_775.html

better or worse?

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Neat looking little block!
If I am reading the data right, I think you need to keep the thermal load under 200W or so, image below from -
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/im...ocket_775.html

I think most oc'd i7s are 200+
When at 4.3 ht on and cpuv at 1.55 cpuv - the 965 thermal load is about 290W, see - http://extreme.outervision.com/tools.jsp

I would think that the already chilled water would increase the cooling capacity of the boreas. So, if 200W's is the max for the thermal cpu block, this would be added by the already chilled water coming from the boreas, thus increasing said max.... though I am just guessing and don't really know what I'm talking about.

I would think that it would be 200w max by itself since it is the only thing cooling the hot cpu. What if it had help? That doesn't increase that max cooling capacity signficantly? I would then think you could use that pelt block on a "low" setting to reduce the risk of condensation, but still have it working enough to aid the boreas. Just an idea :D

Also, I don't think condensation would be too much of an issue unless you can't control the cooling capacity of the pelt block because these quads would heat up the inside nicely, even under idle (with a good overclock though).

The cooling of the swiftech mcw6500-T is determined by the operating point ie the input power - at 12v allowing for heat transfer inefficiencies it can do 160-180w max. That's it....putting chilled water water through it or doing any manner of other things won't change the heatpump.

If you did that, the Boreas would be cooling the heat dump of the Swiftech peltier, not the CPU itself.

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Originally Posted by Froggy

If you did that, the Boreas would be cooling the heat dump of the Swiftech peltier, not the CPU itself.

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Actually no I am wrong...applying chilled water to the hotside of the MCW6500-t will will change the heatpump slightly...for the better but not enough to make any marked difference.

and yes your right it would be cooling the heat dump.

but going through the mcw6500-t then to the boreas would not very good because the the heat given off by the TEC in the swify will be the heatpumped from the CPU plus (heatpumped from CPU times 40-45%) due to the heat generated by the TEC itself.

Hey Guys,

Great thread, love what you are doing with our Boreas!

I will make a concious effort to dedicate more time to the XS forums because I honestly love the explorations you guys get into.

I have also promised the XS team guys a boreas of their own to test but alas have not delivered yet.. they are probably slandering me somewhere haha.


ps. whether or not the swfitech block will work better on our setup will depend on what TEC they used. My hunch is that it will not be able to move the heat from an OC'd chip at 290W across its surface area as it will need to consume nearly that much power itself to pump the heat. My .02

pss. who is going to take on the flow rate myth hmm?

Cheers,

Barry @ CoolIT

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Originally Posted by Barrolde

ps. whether or not the swfitech block will work better on our setup will depend on what TEC they used. My hunch is that it will not be able to move the heat from an OC'd chip at 290W across its surface area as it will need to consume nearly that much power itself to pump the heat. My .02

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I presume with the wattages your stating your talking about the new 7000 swiftech unit if GABE is to be believed that will be one monster unit, and as you say it will requiring some hardcore cooling just for itself. I and others have a hunch though that it won't be the stellar TEC that it's made out to be.

Plus my take on the swiftech block was in reference to using a GTZ in lieu of your waterblock; aka "CPU FHE".

It would be very intresting to see how this works with a Primochill Typhoon III. As it would solve the tiny tubing problem.

Im going to be replacing my 480GTX setup with a Boreas soon, just waiting for Koolance QDC's and other stuff.
Going to run my current loop with the Boreas and see how much worse my temps get, I just wanted something
new to play with. Already gutted the Boreas, going to use a D5 & EK top, Koolance CPU350, XSPC NB block, XSPC 4870X2 Razor with 3/8" tubing.

:)Can't wait to see your results

hewi,, Dont get to much flow or your temp are going to suffer with a Boreas..

And I thought the too much flow with a TEC setup mystery was killed already.
Have seen many posts of ppl arguing about this, and most conclude that they get better temps with higher flow. Ofcourse you need to find a good compromise with pump speed & heat output. I'll get to test this myself next week now that I have all my parts gathered :)

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Originally Posted by hewi

And I thought the too much flow with a TEC setup mystery was killed already.
Have seen many posts of ppl arguing about this, and most conclude that they get better temps with higher flow. Ofcourse you need to find a good compromise with pump speed & heat output. I'll get to test this myself next week now that I have all my parts gathered :)

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I have used all different flows - one boreas, now two boreas in series - I never saw a difference in performance due to flow - not a scientific experiment - just my personal experience.

Not much to tell, ripped the 480GTX from my system and just simply plugged the Boreas in with some Koolance QDC's.
Have to say im very pleasantly suprised about the unit, i've seen so many ppl bashing it for being a waste of money & time.
I have to agree that most pl should go with high end water rather than a Boreas, but for it's size it's a cooling beast.
I can keep my whole system under 40c under heavy load via OCCT stressing & gaming and that's on pair with the GTX setup.
I still need to tidy up the whole install and do more testing, pictures etc. But in short, it's a very capable unit for it's "small" size.

Mr. threadjacker here, didn't want to put up a whole new thread about my
Boreas endeavours. Still being lazy about testing the unit, just being gaming since it cools pretty much on par with my previous watercooling. I need to make a few modifications to get the Boreas working with my case, but im hesitating on cutting up my beloved V-2000 :(

http://img258.imageshack.us/img258/7581/img1484s.jpg

That is a nice looking rig!

Oh man that is a purdy nice looking rig there, great job !! :up: