OCZ Hydroflow Mini Review

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10-02-2008, 03:43 PM
NaeKuh

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hondacity

I'm doing some tests too but i don't wanna test something that performs less than the fusionv1.

:rofl:

thats like me saying i dont feel like driving cars slower then a porshe 911 carrera.

And i thought i had a high horse. :up:
10-02-2008, 09:54 PM
Martinm210

FYI,
Being a little confused as to how I could possibly get worse temperatures with more mounting pressure, I decided to inspect the thermal paste spread a little more carefully on this higher pressure mount. It appears to me with this higher pressure mount, more pressure is being exerted at the four corners of the step and there is some bridging at the center. (Indicated by the thinner paste remaining in the corners and sides vs the center).

http://img150.imageshack.us/img150/1...espreaday2.jpg

In the end, I can only suspect with stepped bases there is probably some sort of optimal mounting pressure. I would suggest trying various amounts of washers and experiment a little..:up:
10-02-2008, 10:01 PM
nikhsub1

Martin I'd check the flatness of your IHS... could be that too.
10-02-2008, 10:02 PM
skinnee

Quote:

Originally Posted by Martinm210

In the end, I can only suspect with stepped bases there is probably some sort of optimal mounting pressure. I would suggest trying various amounts of washers and experiment a little..:up:

I will definitely add this to my list of things to experiment with once I complete the as-shipped thermal tests. My wife is just going to have to make an appointment if she wants to spend time with me, I've got tests to run. :D
10-02-2008, 10:15 PM
Martinm210

Quote:

Originally Posted by nikhsub1

Martin I'd check the flatness of your IHS... could be that too.

I lapped the IHS flat, and checked it with my parallels if anything the corners could be rounded a bit convex, but it's definately not concaved.

Here is a mount right after using Naekus ACDI stepped block and my normal 45-50lb mounting pressure, the paste looks pretty thin in the center and I don't see the same issue of the corners getting the pressure.
http://img150.imageshack.us/img150/1...eppasteqn6.jpg
I think you just have to watch it with stepped bases, too much and you can start bending the blocks or socket and all your pressure leaves the center and goes to the corners.

Quote:

Originally Posted by skinnee

I will definitely add this to my list of things to experiment with once I complete the as-shipped thermal tests. My wife is just going to have to make an appointment if she wants to spend time with me, I've got tests to run. :D

Perfect, I would maybe try one or two mounts with just the springs no washer and work up from there. It probably depends on the shape of the IHS.:up:
10-03-2008, 05:03 AM
Bojamijams

Wait.. adding a washer between the spring loaded screw and the hold down plate increases pressure applied to the CPU?
10-03-2008, 07:36 AM
SNiiPE_DoGG

martin have you ever considered (just another possibility) that you have reshaped the IHS by putting so many high pressure bowed mounts on it your testing? Copper aint the hardest metal dont ya know ;)
10-03-2008, 08:05 AM
HESmelaugh

I can second that. I had to re-lap my IHS after testing the Apogee GTZ. It was (only very slightly) bent concave after three mounts of the GTZ.

What if the base were stepped and slightly bowed? Too much?
10-03-2008, 08:06 AM
Tony

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bojamijams

Wait.. adding a washer between the spring loaded screw and the hold down plate increases pressure applied to the CPU?

yup sure does
10-03-2008, 09:01 AM
evil-98

hey guys just checked PPCS and there in stock

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=24488
10-03-2008, 09:08 AM
Kibbler

fyi they're in stock at PPCs now, for those of you wanting to pick it up for some personal testing.

EDIT boo evil boo:mad:
10-03-2008, 09:09 AM
evil-98

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kibbler

fyi they're in stock at PPCs now, for those of you wanting to pick it up for some personal testing.

i win :p:
10-03-2008, 09:09 AM
Bojamijams

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tony

yup sure does

I should stick to software coding.. mechanics are clearly not my forte.

But I learned something new so yay me! :up:
10-03-2008, 10:20 AM
Tony

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bojamijams

I should stick to software coding.. mechanics are clearly not my forte.

But I learned something new so yay me! :up:

its called preload, i do the same tuning air rifles i restore here. Adding washers to the springs to tune the power outputs.
10-03-2008, 11:15 AM
Bojamijams

It took some thinking about it, and drawing myself a little diagram but I finally figured out why.

At first I thought that putting a washer stops the screw from threating in as far and thus reduces pressure. But now I see that it actually forces the spring down further.
10-10-2008, 10:46 AM
Rise

Tony, can you comment as to when those pumps you spoke of earlier in the thread might be available? Even just a ball park time frame... end of '08, mid-'09...?
10-10-2008, 11:05 AM
Rise

Quote:

Originally Posted by iandh

What I really would like to see is some variety in the low end (say less than $70) radiator market in the US. Swiftech pretty much is unbeatable at the moment IMO with the MCR320 at its current price point. That is a real value for your money product right there.

What about a $26 heater core?
10-10-2008, 12:26 PM
axis

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rise

What about a $26 heater core?

After having barbs soldered on, building a shroud for the fans, and figuring out a way to mount it, it would be easier to pay a little more and get a $50 MCR320.

Axis
10-10-2008, 06:56 PM
AndrewZorn

Quote:

Originally Posted by axis

After having barbs soldered on, building a shroud for the fans, and figuring out a way to mount it, it would be easier to pay a little more and get a $50 MCR320.

Axis

I still wonder the same thing, why it's worth so much trouble. If nothing else, the time itself it takes to obtain and set up the heatercore can probably be used to pay the difference to the MCR, even if you work at McDonald's.
10-11-2008, 06:53 AM
gillbot

Quote:

Originally Posted by axis

After having barbs soldered on, building a shroud for the fans, and figuring out a way to mount it, it would be easier to pay a little more and get a $50 MCR320.

Axis

I disagree, I got my BARBED heatercore for $10 shipped.
11-04-2008, 07:18 AM
bundymania

good Review Martin !

here is mine:

Review: OCZ Hydroflow against <-> Ybris A.C.S. BLACK PEARL Cromo <-> EK Supreme

you guys may have a look :)
11-10-2008, 10:33 PM
aghory

What kind of threaded hubs does the OCZ waterblock has?
3/8" NPT or G 1/4"?
I am also confused about MCR320...on some websites I see 3/8" on others 1/4" threaded hubs. Are there 2 versions of it?
I am trying to replace the rdiator of a Kandalf LCS with a Swiftech MCR320 and I need some 1/2" fittings...but angled. I found Koolance , but seems o be g1/4. To be honest I'm not a newbie but I'm preety confused.
And I didn't find anywhere explained terms: barbs, elbows, compression, etc and how to combine these in a water cooling system.
Sorry for my ignorance if you know anything about this stuff maybe you can help.
Thanks
11-10-2008, 11:00 PM
aspire.comptech

Quote:

Originally Posted by aghory

What kind of threaded hubs does the OCZ waterblock has?
3/8" NPT or G 1/4"?
I am also confused about MCR320...on some websites I see 3/8" on others 1/4" threaded hubs. Are there 2 versions of it?
I am trying to replace the rdiator of a Kandalf LCS with a Swiftech MCR320 and I need some 1/2" fittings...but angled. I found Koolance , but seems o be g1/4. To be honest I'm not a newbie but I'm preety confused.
And I didn't find anywhere explained terms: barbs, elbows, compression, etc and how to combine these in a water cooling system.
Sorry for my ignorance if you know anything about this stuff maybe you can help.
Thanks

Yes, swiftech changed form 3/8 NPT to G 1/4" about a year ago.

I have a 3/8 MCR220 and a G1/4 MCR320.

There isn't a way until to tell until you have the rad in hand or ask whoever your buying from.
11-11-2008, 07:31 AM
aghory

The ones I am buying from a totally idiots. No offense but this is the truth. It is a retail store, not an online one.
I bought a Swiftech Apex Ultra + kit which retails for 329$ without taxes with 104 $, brand new, while the normal Apex Ultra was labeled at 220$. I didn't tried to understand the logic of that, as long as it saved me over 200$. It was the kit with Apogee GT inside.
Now I have the radiator in my hand. Is there a way I can tell what kind of threads it has? It does fit perfectly the OCZ waterblock 1/2 " or 3/8 " barbs, so it has the same threads as OCZ waterblock. Which one would be those, G 1/4" or NPT 3/8"?
11-11-2008, 08:03 AM
voigts

the OCZ is G 1/4".

Technically, Swiftech does not use G1/4. They use 1/4" NPSM which is just slightly different than G 1/4" by one thread per inch. On their rads, it doesn't make a difference and you can use G 1/4" barbs just fine, but as I found out this weekend, on the MCW60, you need the Bitspower adapters that go from 1/4"NPSM to G1/4" in order to use G1/4" barbs right since the threads are plastic.

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