Not widely used in America lol Yes, I understand what you are referring to.Quote:
Originally Posted by [XC] riptide
Don't those have holes that are slightly large? I just checked the perforated holes on an American three-ring binder.
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Not widely used in America lol Yes, I understand what you are referring to.Quote:
Originally Posted by [XC] riptide
Don't those have holes that are slightly large? I just checked the perforated holes on an American three-ring binder.
Jaycar sell them in packs of 10.Quote:
Originally Posted by twwen2
M3 FLAT WHT PK10
RE why does it short out using screws?
Judging from what I've been reading and hearing here and my own musings I think that the stock cooler is sufficiently isolated from the card...it uses spongey TIM pads and the backplate is spaced away from the card. The EK mounts directly..the block is touching a variety of parts that might be somewhat conductive...the PLX IHS for instance. And the screw holes lugs are earthed...so when the screw makes the whole water block earthed it's pretty easy to imagine a fault waiting to happen...Perhaps the reason this is not happening for eveyrone is the way each person cuts and places the TIM pads or tightens the screws...I'dl ike to see a better mounting system than this for sure.
Perhaps some stick on spacers like naked Die CPUS use...
That's good to know. Thanks :)Quote:
Originally Posted by rockqc
Thanks for the explanation CD, i agree the blocks should have spacers, a bit like a hard-mount. Then we wouldn't bend the card so much.Quote:
Originally Posted by CyberDruid
wow, i was just looking at blocks and like the look of EK nickel, then I saw this thread., I'm glad i waited a while before getting to this part of the build,
Thanks for blazing the trail....
see this is what XS is all about, exposing a flaw, finding the solution and giving the maker a blistering/opps, i mean finding the solution,
thanks guyzzz
lol
I have buttloads of EK parts in all my builds...they have nice stuff.
for those with problems, wouldnt using the stock backplate some the problems?
For those worried about the card bending can put some thicker washers between the block and the card:
http://gallery.me.com/jeffrey_lee/10...12226033470001
It is very much a hard mount for me, perfect contact with no bending of the graphics card, as the card is actually braced by the block, and therefore very rigid. Without the washer, the card still have room to bend towards the block, with only the elasticity of the board keeping it stright and the screws in its place.
It can be a quick-fix for EK as they don't design standoffs into their block, so just throw in a few small washers for their current blocks until it is fixed in the future.
care to give the exact thickness of those?:D
They came with my old D-Tek Fusion V1 mounting stuffs with a random paper washer... I'd say 2mm? I got a few washers lying around so question of trial and error. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Giannis86
I know the black washers you mean. I have a few too...good idea. :up:
Does the EK 4870X2 block incorporate the stock backplate or is the back bare?
The back is bare. The EK uses two L-shaped black anodized alumuinum sinks that are countersunk to receive the longer flat headed screws. These provide the clamping force around the GPUs. There is no way to use the stock backplate...nor would you want to IMO.
not sure if this was answered 100% but with a 550.00 card I don't want to RMA another one.
What is the nylon size of the counter sunk screws???
also who is a good supplier for nylon screws in the USA ??
They are both M3 and try MCMaster Carr I think the length is 8mm on the FH screw.
BTW Another solution was posted on this issue on another forum: use squares of electrical tape over the holes and poke a holes in each square. That's too easy...
just to jump in here i had a similar problem with my 2900xt ek block and now i have a dead 2900xt i got spacers too but the came seprate and there was nothign in the instruction about them !!!
gonna stick a volt meter so see if block si shorting out even tho card is dead
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...2900xts012.jpg
Take of the the WB and put on the stock cooler for starters. That will probably bring back at least a grim grin.
http://www.mcmaster.com/itm/find.ASP...ring=92492A116
http://www.mcmaster.com/param/asp/ps...54;110=286;M;I
Here are links to the Nylon M3 screws you might want to substitute. I have not tried nylon screws and do not know how strong they are. I'm ordering some to try out.
Koolance took a different approach and use the stock back plate to secure the block to the front of the card and cool the RAM on the back. I like this approach as it ensures exactly what is supposed to be secure, is secure. My back plate is alway very warm to the touch so something is causing heat on the back of the card.Quote:
Originally Posted by CyberDruid
Check your block and make sure you didn't tighten the bolts all the way down, bending the card. This has been a major beef of mine with EK and their FC blocks inability to fit a card correctly. An example is below (when tightened the card would fail, back it off and would work):Quote:
Originally Posted by -Acid-
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y25...ockPics015.jpg
sadly the card was straight and only just finger tight and then quarter turned the ones around core i made sure there were no bends
ragin !!!
here's the link to the build thread
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=203105
Well, not widely used for their intended purpose.Quote:
Originally Posted by IanY
I enjoy placing one on the tip of my nose or perhaps my forehead at work and walking around like nothing is amiss, then acting confused when people give me funny looks.