I have an 8" vise in my workshop.
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It's been awhile since I have updating my build log, but I recently started
making custom lenght cables and sleeving them.
The first thing I had to figure out was how to make the sleeving and
heat shrink all the same length.
Here's the T-Square I have had forever.
http://img379.imageshack.us/img379/4959/img0061xo0.jpg
http://img379.imageshack.us/img379/9991/img0062ou3.jpg
I used one of the sata power cables that came with the Antec TruePower Quattro psu, as well as another cable I had that had some 90 degree
connectors.
http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/4333/img0055hq5.jpg
http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/6329/img0056fe4.jpg
It's got six connectors, and right now I only have 3 hdd's but I will be
anding 3 more in the future.
http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/8941/img0058ko5.jpg
http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/4753/img0057xy2.jpg
Next up will be the 24pin power cable
Brilliant idea with the heatshrink spacing. I've been thinking about how I plan on cutting them equally with the same length.
What kind of heat shrink is that?
Very nice job.
Nice update and great job on the sata sleeving :clap:
More we need more :yepp:
I love this build, that is pretty much as I planned to make a wider case.
I wouldn't go the MM style build as imho it's to bulky for it's needs but this does look very well built and great craftsmanship.
Instead of getting it anodized or powder coated, how about using some 100-250 grit sanding paper (or maybe even a screwdriver) and "scratch" it badly. Then paint it in "insert color" and re sand it with a small grit (400-800). which would leave the scratches filled up with "insert color" and sand it from N to S to give it a worn look.
Just an idea, very nice build I'll keep an eye on this one.
Great sleaving job, makes me want to do mine over....:up:
Thanks BlueAqua, I spent alot of time trying to come up with an easy way instead of measuring each and every one, T-Square to the rescue!
The heat shrink i used is the cheapest 2:1 ratio that you can find anywhere.
I have some 3:1 adhesive lined, but it's double wall and would have been to
thick by the time i put 5 pieces side to side.
Thanks Dangals, more to come
Hey those are fightin words, just joking.
Interesting finish idea, never heard of that before, but the thought of randomly scratching my case scares the hell out of me.
Your technique seems like it would kind of give me a colored anodized finish, would that be about right?
Thanks trfnj74
Amazing sleeving!!! That back section is so clean..... Heavenly:up:
I tested a scrap piece i had and used sandpaper to give it that brushed aluminum look, it came out ok but would require more work that i'am willing
to put into it.
It's starting to get cold where i live, but in the springtime i'am going to paint
the inside either flat black or a very low luster.
take care.
Thanks FrostyPanda,
I recently sent 4 Powder Coating companies an email along with some photo's
and asked for a quote to powder coat the inside of my case low gloss black.
I do realize that they would have to mask off all the exterior of the panels to protect them from the powder.
My first quote just came in this morning, it would include the 3 hard drive brackets, the motherboard tray and the 5x5.25 dvd holder, all on both sides and they want $244.00 for the job.
I have no idea of how much high heat masking costs.
Do you think that price is high?
I presume thats 244 CAD??? :rofl:. I would suggest that you keep looking around. I am able to get my entire 343b powder coated glossy black for about 50 USD incl. the HDD cages and what not. If you want to keep down on prices though, you might want to hop on over to a home depot of sumthin and look at some Krylon spray paint. It usually works really nicely and if you do the coats properly, you will get an almost perfect and powder coat like finish. Just make sure if you go this path, you give about 24hrs between coats. It will look as if it is dry in about 20 mins, but it is not and if you paint over it it will give a very inconsistent finish. Good luck!!! If you've got any more questions, PM me or reference me on your post. Theres so many posts that the subscription feature just bugs me after a while :rofl:
Great work and build log! Like the others, I like your implementation of the sleeving for the HD power connections.
Hi FrosyPanda,
Yes it would be Canadian dollars.
I was going to spray it myself, but would have to wait till next spring.
I have a compressor so would only need to buy a spray gun,primer and paint.
So i'm just going to spend a little more, save the work and have a professional do it.
I have now received 3 more quotes for powder coating and they range in price from $180 to $244.
I think the price is high because they would have to mask off all the exterior panels because i only want the interior painted, probably cheaper to do the whole case.
One thing I have learned is that the phosphate pre-wash they use to clean the metal with prior to applying the powder will taint or change the original satin finish, that's not acceptable to me so they gave me the option of using Lacquer Thinners as the cleaner so there's no chance of ruining the exterior finish.
Thanks shellac,
Sleeving takes a long time but, worth it when it's done.
I've ordered the Ek full cover vga block, should have it Tuesday or Wednesday, I'll take some pictures along the way as I install it.
zuess
that quote for powder coating is definetely high.
i did not know that powdercoating jobs can be masked off.
here in town last spring i had a full tower case,and external cage i built for the dual loop all powdercoated a flat black and it was 135 total.
Since I have a few weeks till the case goes to be powder coated I thought it would be a good time to improve the cooling on my eVGA GTX260.
It's the Ek full-cover block and the Ram backplate, Thanks ncix.com.
http://img91.imageshack.us/img91/3000/img0063it3.jpg
The quality of the block is great, and the nickel finish is sooooo nice.
http://img367.imageshack.us/img367/6221/img0065tv7.jpg
http://img91.imageshack.us/img91/3521/img0064ap0.jpg
I've read that removing the stock cooler can be very difficult but, it actually wasn't as hard as I thought it would be.
http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/3165/img0067wh9.jpg
http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/1383/img0068ek3.jpg
http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/9154/img0069yk2.jpg
http://img367.imageshack.us/img367/6119/img0066va5.jpg
Leak tested for 18 hours
http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/6193/img0072wq2.jpg
The block dropped my idle temps from 44 down to 33, will bench it to see the maximum temps later.
I hope you enjoyed the pictures.
:)zuess
I love it and as mentioned earlier in this thread I started my own and using some of your idea's for connecting the aluminum "profiles"
Not sure if that is the correct word but i bastardized it from dutch ;)
Doubt i'll ever post a worklog, but I have D70 and I will take pics along the way.
The base is an old aluminum kingwin case which resembles your lian li backplate.
It also has "sliding" 5.25" 3.5" fasteners. So mounting them will be easier. Especially the cdrom drive/fancontroller.
As you can see mine will be alot smaller then yours.
The motherboard will be placed in the middle somewhere horizontally, and 2 pumps will be mounted next to the 5.25" bays on each side.
2 120.2 in the bottom and the psu at the bottom (similar to yours.
Good luck on your build.
if mine turns out 1/2 as good, i'll be more then happy. :up:
http://img355.imageshack.us/img355/4...2673hb2.th.jpghttp://img355.imageshack.us/images/thpix.gif
:worship::slobber::slobber::slobber::worship:
That's looking great!
The profile corners are really strong using that method, not to mention that your using cutoff pieces and saving money.
Please post a worklog when your done, just take lots of pictures.
If your not a perfectionist, become one even for just this project and don't rush and you will be pleased for years to come.
Your case will be very unique and others will get alot of good ideas, and that's what it's all about.
I was wondering, what thickness aluminum did you use for the side panels.
Looks like 2mm, would 1.5 also been suffice? Considering weight and all that, or would that be too "bendy" ?
I'm at the point that I need to buy side panels, and I couldn't find the thickness in the thread.
cheers.
Hey thanks! What color scheme are you planning on? Just my 2 cents, but I think a metallic or pearl indigo would look siiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiick. It'd have to be really dark, but it would really accent the electric blue cables and go great with the w/c tubing, esp. if you have UV blue coolant in it :cool:. Have fun with it!
Hi FrostyPanda,
I think Black and the natural color of aluminum, i just want to be able to play with different colors of fans and tubing.
I haven't used any coolant, trying to avoid the gunk problem, but i have noticed the "BlueAqua" has been using Feser One premix with good success.
I may give that a try, would look good in the Micro-Res.
zuess