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Later this week, I'm going to try to dissolve the glue that sticks the ihs on to the circuit board by soaking in Methyl Ethyl Keytone (MEK). If it does, it could make it easier to remove the ihs.
I am going to do this to a E8500 or E8600, does anyone have a pic of the inside of one of these?
And would doing this help when using a phase cooler?
I will take this leap too.
I will be sanding down my Q6600 ihs tomorrow for fun.
I hope nothing goes wrong.;)
it's not glue. It's indium solder.
Wow............Amazing patience and ball you have there.
Good work:clap:
My hat is off to you sirQuote:
Originally Posted by Ruslan
That is some amazing work you've done there!
It looks as good as if it had been made by a CNC Surface Grinder
...Which gives me an idea, are those CPU's magnetc? (Hehe, no, I wont try it, too expensive to fail :))
Please do post a higher resolution pic of that CPU if you have it!
How does a cpu without ihs fair under a waterblock?
What do you guys think, will i be getting better cpu temp or worse?
Any advice will be highly welcomed.
NB:Hardware
Q6600 and the waterblock is a D-Tek fusion.
it would work great, but the fuzion is bowed. Since it's bowed, it's probably crack the core.
I don't recommend this for watercooling guys!!!
Lap the proc a little, and use a bowed block like the Fuzion V2, that will get you your best results possible.
Too late i have started the sanding and boy my fingers hurt like hell:(. For the past four hours, i have been sanding and the end is not even nearQuote:
Originally Posted by smee
He he, its like watching paint dry! You think your almost there, but theres always twice as much left as you think there is.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shocker003
Anyone try sanding down to like the last .25mm or so and then sand it all the way and compare that against a bare IHS? If the results don't change a lot, it might be worth it for the majority of us to just stop there.
Update on my quest:
I have to stop sanding cos the ihs of my cpu is lower than the cpu retention on the motherboard and i canīt feel my fingers atm. I will continue later in the day with the sanding nightmare.
I have to remove the retention for my D-tek base to make contact with the ihs.
I believe ihs removal will work for anybody that is using stepped cpu waterblock.
when the ihs was finally off, how long did you sand the bare dies to get rid of the solder?
If your question was meant for me, then i couldnīt go on as i ran out of balls:dammit:. In a nutshell after about 9 hrs of sanding i stopped and there was no drop in my temp and my cpu ihs is almost the same level with the part that the mainboard retention bracket rests on.Quote:
Originally Posted by Boogerlad
brave not to try it on a cheaper/broken chip first
I think I'm a little too scared to try it.
I have a TRUE, and I don't want to crush the bare dies (I've seen pictures, it's not pretty).
I also really don't think it will gain me a whole lot, my Q6600 is already lapped.
This takes like 8 hours remember?Quote:
Originally Posted by rjkoneill
Yes and No. With a properly designed waterblock a direct die with a flat block will outperform a bowed block on a almost fully lapped die/ihs. Unfortunitly with the whole bowed craze we don't even really get a choice in the matter, and don't have access to the better performing blocks of today in an unbowed form. (blocks come pre bowed nowadays :-( )Quote:
Originally Posted by smee
Oh well thats why I'm Old Skool with my Cather G5.... One day perhaps flat blocks will become all the rage again.... Well assuming Intel changes the way cpu is mounted, OR AMD becomes the uber king again and keeps there current mount method, so no time soon :p: .
Isnt it dangerous, sanding the core from the soldering ? Cant it be scrached ? I could try this on my E2140, but im a bit scared, since ive cracked and damaged a few cores before :P
Ive lapped Fusion V1 and V2... They can be safely lapped flat with no bow..Just sand slow...Quote:
Originally Posted by Shocker003
Ive been doing sanding X2/X4 cores for a while. Ive even EXIT port modded the holes on Fusion too for better flow...
Just drill the four corner exit holes to 3/8" for higher flow.Works with V2 just harder to drill the corners or you can use a roudtale file.
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...a/HPIM0606.jpg
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...a/HPIM0598.jpg
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...a/HPIM0595.jpg
As for lapping,, make shure the Block is fully assembled then lap flat or it will bow when you put it back to gether..
You can do alot of small improvements with a fusion and still be able to use the Nozzel for INTEL chips.. If you use no nozzel you can open up center hole on the bottom for wider coverage of Center CORE CPU's..
I recomend the Split Nozzel for CORE2 Quads while using larger exet holes.
You dont need Extreme preshure to mount the block...Install as normal with factory hardware. When lapped ,, you may use a little less paste .A Nice super thin layer on each core is all that is needed with AS5 or MX-2.. Just remeber the AS5 takes longer to set when using water.
Water block base must not sand too much, its thickness much be strong enough to prevent it from warping, once warp, you can throw away your block.
Too much pressure also will cause the block to warp or crack the core, just sit nicely on the core will do.
wow that looks awesome. how long did it take you to stand that down tho?
You've now given us all a good picture of what lies below the spreader so surely we could use a dremel with a steady hand to cut through the spreader? Much quicker and if you don't slip it should be safe.
Don't quote me on this though.
What TIM do u use after removal of ihs and how? :confused:
Same as you would with the IHS in place.