your the most realistic member of this forum....;) agree %100 2.2v with fan at good clocks-timings last forever.anything above(2.3v+) that is rma time sooner or later.
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i run my d9 @ 2,4v 27/7 +2x6cm fan,room temp ard 24-26'c its been abt 6mnth
i think im just lucky :shrug: the stick still doin alright :yepp: bench at 2,6v dont know how long it would last...
Im running 2.3V trough them with Weak DRAM Drive Strength.
CKE, CS/ODT, Addr/Cmd and MEMCLK Drive Strengths all at 1.25x (only MEMCLK is higher than default here, the other three or 0.25x lower than default. EPP has one of them even at 2.0x).
DATA and DQS Drive Strengths at 1.0x.
2.0-2.1 24/7. Benching is fine at 2.5-2.6 Volts.
I've gone through 3 sets of Crucial D9 @ 2.2 and 2.3 volts for 24/7 across 3 different motherboards. Never again.
max safe voltage 24/7 for D9GMH.
that's easy : 0 volt :p:
however I have a friend here benched at 3.5v with cell shock d9gkx. They done 1066mhz 3 3 3 5
See the thread I just posted on OCZ Flex @ 850 3-2-2. I run them comfortably at 2.7V (set to 2.6V in BIOS) on water. Anything less isn't enough for good overclocks or low latencies. They were sold to me as 6400/800 but CPU-Z and SPD-Z show them to be 9200/1150. Like it says on the tin (well Aluminium and Copper) they are very flexible. Nominal voltage is 2.35+/- 0.05.
I was told by a colleague yesterday that the 9600 uniits will do 10400/1300, watch this space and I'll see if my 9200/1150s can get close...
I have had the odd problem with mine when going for high speeds or low latencies (or both) where the board wouldn't post even after clearing the BIOS. Solution was to install some cheap RAM, boot, shutdown, reinstall the Flex, boot, shutdown, remove cheap RAM, boot, tweak until it happens again.
Were you water cooling the Flex?
I case you're not sick of me yet a little tip on electromigration: it is a function of voltage and temperature. At high temperatures resistance goes up leading to higher current, without sufficient cooling the heat stays on the chip so you need more current so you make more heat and need even more, positive feedback until something breaks down. This is why active cooling is important, and also why components that run hot overclock well when cooled well as heat is the limiting factor so shifting it raises the limit.
Also electromigration is much less of an issue in copper interconnect than it was in aluminium, due to the higher atomic weight of copper atoms they are harder for the electrons to push around, I'd go into the equations but it's years since I worked in a fab or on semiconductor research.
You have what sounds like a decent water set up and RAM with built in waterblocks and you didn't get it wet?
As I remember the stock 2.4V is for watercooling. I didn't like taking them over 2.2V on air. I'd RMA it and get the replacement on water, Swiftech do F-splitters which is almost purpose built for this RAM, get some.
What are you running that Wolf at? I had one stable at 3.6GHz with no thermal issues (4 hours 3D mark, overnight Prime95) and a mate had one stable at 4.2GHz on air, both were on 780i boards. Unless you are at 70C+ loaded, have a weak pump (<400lph) or an under cooled radiator I doubt you would have any issues besides modifying the loop.
Water cooling the RAM might actually improve CPU temperatures by dumping the heat from the RAM in the radiator instead of dumping it onto the motherboard near the CPU and the surrounding air.
As for complication two F-splitters and a foot or less of 1/4 inch hose.
When I change memory I'm going to keep the coolers. I think OCZ should sell the coolers separately (hint, hint @ RyderOCZ).
Well just an update people.
I got my ram exchanged in store for a new set.
The new set is running 1200mhz at 5-4-4-18 w/2.2v 100% orthos stable for 9 hours.
One can expect ram to degrade In overclockability after prolonged periods of high voltage use. My previous dims, ocz plat rev.2 did 900-950 cl4 or 1100 cl5 @ 2.3v, I did a lot of suicide runs after than at around 2.6v and they were never the same again, lol. They could hardly do 900cl4 with 2.35volts
Well I look at it this way... This is XS, and it's hardly worth having D9 unless you want 2.3v+ in it daily. If you want low voltage you have qimonda which is probably better around 2.1v mark.
New update.
Now fully 100% orthos stable at 5-4-3-15 at DDR1200 with only 2.2v.