http://members.iinet.net.au/~zzhang/Pinmod.jpg
With Gold Arrow facing top left, the shown portition is lower right corner of the CPU
Printable View
http://members.iinet.net.au/~zzhang/Pinmod.jpg
With Gold Arrow facing top left, the shown portition is lower right corner of the CPU
that seems a little different from what is shown here to give the 166MHz FSB...or do i have it wrong?
http://fab51.fc2web.com/pc/tbred/img..._sense_pin.gif
but if it works, more power to ya....nicely done.
use the above image in regard to this thread:
http://forum.oc-forums.com/vb/showth...hreadid=212004
it's the same mod.. except I used a different Vss pin..
on oc forum they choose to use AH32 (pin below), i used AH28 (pin above)..
hehe Rag , nice that helped you :D
btw 235Mhz is fair enough now, but keep in mind that now, only your ram is limiting you from overclocking, my OCZ PC3500 EL seems to stop overclocking at 243Mhz (going higher will result in Prime95 instability even with crazy Vdimm ;))
I must be doing something wrong cuz no matter how I bridge the L3 and the L12, it won't post. My guess is i have a retarted cpu :( Spent 2 hours with no success. Oh well, I'll stay with my max of 220. It's a pain in the arse removing and reataching the waterblock. I have a suposed dead XP2100 Tbred B 304 which i'm gonna try this mod on. Who knows, it might just came back to life.
Is your cpu capable of running 166 fsb with the default multiplier and voltage? Because that's what it's gonna to try and post at.
so if i have a 1700+ and a 8rda+ (a3) would i want to do the L12 mod?
i already modded it to use a 13x multi so i get all multi now
Yep, but still no dice. 2 cpus and 3 hours later, no luck. I'm gonna throw in the towel and just forget it. I'm gonna get myself all worked up for nuthin.Quote:
Originally posted by MrLavender
Is your cpu capable of running 166 fsb with the default multiplier and voltage? Because that's what it's gonna to try and post at.
Thanx anyways.
I fee ya Nebulous...I did the EXACT SAME THING!...so I put in a 1700 that I know will clock at a decent speed...(11*228...an at that I have to put so much fire uP it's behind...I jus run it at 10.5*225*1.65v) an moved on down the road:toast:Quote:
Originally posted by Nebulous
Yep, but still no dice. 2 cpus and 3 hours later, no luck. I'm gonna throw in the towel and just forget it. I'm gonna get myself all worked up for nuthin.
When u say condactive paint can i use Whiteout for paper ??? :)
well first post NF7-S will always post @ 100 FSB...
or if it doesnt post coz not enough volts u can always hold insert
I tried the pin trick but i couldn't get the wire to go arounf the two pins. How did you manage to do it? I don't want to use conductive paint as i'm not too confident in the one i have
For now i'm stuck @220MHz and my ram doesn't seem to hold me back
Yeah :( I got a 1700 somewhere around here, but I don't want to go thru the trouble of taking the waterblock off again. It's really a paint in the arse!lolQuote:
Originally posted by Stepper
I fee ya Nebulous...I did the EXACT SAME THING!...so I put in a 1700 that I know will clock at a decent speed...(11*228...an at that I have to put so much fire uP it's behind...I jus run it at 10.5*225*1.65v) an moved on down the road:toast:
Guess 220 isnt too bad. Sure wish i could get more, but, oh well.
I use conductive silver epoxy ( like AS), the brand I bought is actually designed for electrically conductive ( for bridging ), but has very good thermal properties also ( per their specs).
Works well for traces.....:D
I do believe I'm gonna try this later today, on the early 8RDA+ (Rev.1.0). My OCZ PC3500 Basic gets into windows, but not stable, @223 FSB, and I'd be a happy camper if this trick gets me more. ;) Gotta do a few things first, but I'll be back later with some input. :)
Can anyone post a socket diagram that shows exactly where to jumper wire a 166 Barton into a 133 default fsb chip. I think setting AH30 to high will achieve this, but if it's set low now(grounded), then can a socket jumper even do this?
I don't want to blow a the L12 bridge if I can avoid it.
:p:
Hi all, my first post here :thumbsup:
Welp, not much use on my 8RDA+. :( After all the trouble of pulling my mobo, R&Ring my PAL8045, & the mod itself, I was hoping for SOME gain, but it just isn't so. :p: ;) I'm 90% sure the mod went right, as I've unlocked a few chips in my day now, and on my first boot, I got the failed overclock screen, being asked to reset the CPU settings. Oh well, someone has to be the guinea pig. ;)
nothing doing on my a7n8x-x....i'm pretty sure i did it right....so i just did the volt mod from ocinside and i'm able to access up to 1.85V. better one mod than no mod...maybe it's the 1700+ but i doubt it....
and here's a socket view...be sure to orient the socket right.
http://fab51.fc2web.com/pc/tbred/img..._sense_pin.gif
It doesn't work with my 1700 either, i'm pretty sure the unlock was fine
if unsure, check with a multimeter...
I'll have to buy one, with the mod i'm doing it's becoming an essential tool
Hey chile, thnx for the reply, but I don't believe that diagram is correct. It shows pin locations for AH30 and AG31 correctly, but you would not want to connect them together. For a 133 default you need both senses need to be set to high, ie not grounded. So I think we would need to jumper AH30 to the nearest vcc/Vcore pin.Quote:
Originally posted by chile
nothing doing on my a7n8x-x....i'm pretty sure i did it right....so i just did the volt mod from ocinside and i'm able to access up to 1.85V. better one mod than no mod...maybe it's the 1700+ but i doubt it....
and here's a socket view...be sure to orient the socket right.
http://fab51.fc2web.com/pc/tbred/img..._sense_pin.gif
My question is : if it's already grounded thru the 3rdL12 bridge will jumpering thru the socket setting AH30 to high work?
Help me oh wise one's
:confused:
http://www.beachlink.com/candjac/ima...bsensepins.jpg
u might need to use a resistor from teh vcc though..
a 10K? judging from that pic?
Right, but notice that for it to be set high, the bridge must be open.
I'm still not sure because on the site this pic comes from it says that "Users may refer to socket pinout diagram/s in 25175.pdf datasheet to locate Vss/Gd and Vcc/Vcore sockets near AG31 and AH30 to apply fine wire u-loop "jumpers" to reset their default LO/HI setting/s instead of closing/opening their respective L12 bridges."
I need a guru here
:)
it's not telling you to connect 'em, it shows you where they are...notice the Vss/Gnd pins next to them....you're supposed to put the wire in AH30 and the Gnd.Quote:
Originally posted by G H Z
Hey chile, thnx for the reply, but I don't believe that diagram is correct. It shows pin locations for AH30 and AG31 correctly, but you would not want to connect them together. For a 133 default you need both senses need to be set to high, ie not grounded. So I think we would need to jumper AH30 to the nearest vcc/Vcore pin.
My question is : if it's already grounded thru the 3rdL12 bridge will jumpering thru the socket setting AH30 to high work?
Help me oh wise one's
:confused:
http://www.beachlink.com/candjac/ima...bsensepins.jpg