Sound like that ought to be more than enough. How many fans are intake and how many exhaust in the case all together? Any pics we could study a bit?
Ah, NO! We see enough of that stammering buffoon on the telly.
Yeah I'll try to get pics up soon. I'm the sort of guy who would rather post pics of an end result rather than a work in progress.
Right now I have 3 intake and 6 exhaust. I have the Horizon. I'm using the front side and top panel as my exhaust. One of my two 5.25" bays has been converted into a radiator mount with a 120mm fan. So that's 4 exhaust fans in the front. There are two 120mm fans attached to the "Original Top" on the top panel that are also set for exhaust. There are two 120mm fans in the back where the PA120.2 is for intake and another 120mm fan on the motherboard tray for intake. Both are in the back.
My plan of action includes:
1) breaking down the entire computer ....again and recording another 15ft of Tygon B-44-3
2) reversing the airflow: The fans on the front panel will be set towards intake, and the fans on the back panel will be set for exhaust. I will keep the 2 fans up top as exhaust. This will result in 4 intake, and 5 exhaust, hopefully balancing airflow a bit.
3) breaking apart my Fuzion to see if there's any clogs or something that might affect performance.
4) purchasing a new set of Fuzion mounting screws as I'm worried that my constant remounts has damaged/bent the screws in an awkward manner that makes it increasingly difficult to screw tight.
5) removing the main mosfet heatsink and replacing it with an Alphacool Heattrap RegCooler Universal G1/4: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=21796
I'll be using either MX-2 or Chomerics Thermattach® T412 Conductive Tape for it and placing an analogue temp gauge under the waterblock. Not sure which one would be better for this. Any suggestions?
6) I'll be replacing the secondary mosfet heat sink with individual mosfet heat sinks: Microcool Passive Heatsink MOSFET Chipsink
7) I'll be redo'ing all of my waterblocks with X23 instead of MX-2 (ugh, expensive).
8) Figuring out why my BigNG-Sensorbus won't read temps from my 6 water temp probes: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=20435
Anyone have any idea why it'd stop working all of a sudden? Would the location be a problem? I currently have it screwed into my Alphacool DDC top in the horizontal inlet.
9) Rearrange all of my temp probes:
Analogue:
1) CPU
2) NB
3) SB
4) Mosfet
5) GPU 1
6) WD500 HD
7) Raptor HD
8-10) Alphacool water temp probes attached to Alphacool DDC top.
Digital:
1) Case (any suggestions on where would provide the best objective case/ambient temps?)
2) CPU waterblock
3) NB waterblock
4) SB waterblock
5) Mosfet waterblock
6-7) GPU waterblock (any ideas where best location would be? I can't find a good "solid" place on my EK block)
8) RAM
I feel the same way about posting pics of my rigs before their done so I know how you feel.
The way you describe the fan layout kind of sounds to me like the RAM cooler is the only thing moving air on/over the board, and it might be directional at that. Flipping a fan or two up front might help or if you could, make up something for the back MoBo 120 that forces the air down sort of like this old Tt duct. http://www.directron.com/a1442.html What ever you do, try to keep negative pressure in the case (I'm sure I really didn't have to say that but, WTH, it couldn't hurt to remind you ;) ).
Those Microcool heatsinks stick pretty well if you heat up the tape real good. I've been able to lift a mATX MoBo w/Lian-Li mATX tray by them, that's how well they'll stick. Oh yeah, they work pretty decent as well :up:
Rest of your plan looks like pretty solid trouble shooting. GL, I have a feeling you may need it.
Negative pressure as in more intake fans than exhaust fans right? or vice versa?
After much troubleshooting, the water temp probes will not work with the BigNG. This is a warning to everyone else so that they also won't make the same mistake. The BigNG requires that all temp probes have a resistance of 10kOhm to be compatible.
I went ahead and purchased some different ones instead: http://www.mcubed-store.com/catalog/...roducts_id=149
and will be inserting them into some AC "Plug and Cool" fittings to get water temp readings.
Ranker, the O.D. on the sensor is shown as 10mm, the P&C fitting is shown as 8mm. Did you link the right stuff?
+ pressure = more CFM into case
- pressure = more CFM out of case
Air will always find it's way through cracks to fill a vacuum but it'd rather just swirl around inside the case once it's there.
The Horizon has finally been finished. Aside from possibly a few cabling tweaks and some rewiring of my T-Balancer BigNG, the Horizon won't see too much of a change.
During this build, I've learned some valuable lessons, I'd like to share with others who are considering doing some of the things I've done. The most important thing is that I never ever want to do a multiple loop build again...ever. The pain staking process of having to find room and innovative ways to mount/place components resulted in numerous rebuilds when things didn't fit as how I had planned it out. I probably spent over 2 weeks just drawing the loops out with exact measurements. However, once you get around to actually placing the components physically, they never quite fit as planned. At most, I'll do two loop builds in the future, but I'm most likely going to stick with single loop builds. The headaches are just not worth it. As much as I trust the 10 DDC's that I personally own and use in my multiple rigs, the thought of one failing, which would require me to disassemble the entire build, would probably drive me past the point of insanity. As great as the Horizon looks, rerouting tubing, especially with the pumps on the bottom, requires a total rebuild. In the future, I'll probably stick with a single loop with possibly multiple radiators powered by a single RD-30. I hate to say it, but I think this very project burnt me out from the watercooling scene... at least for a while.
Other things I've learned:
1) Hiding cables is a pain in the ass and requires multiple cuts in the motherboard tray that you didn't plan for with your first wave of cuts.
2) UV dye from Jab-tech and Alphacool are utter crap.
3) I never want to use automated hardware to control my fans/pumps again. Not only is the wiring a total messy, pain in the ass, but the hassles of setting it all up just isn't worth it. The first few days are great when you see all the information at your disposal but seriously, how often are you going to look at that stuff. I feel the same way about bay drive LCD's. Anyhow, in the future, I'll most likely be going back to my Sunbeam rheostats to control my fans and leave my pumps at full speed with RPM monitoring through the motherboard/bios/speedfan.
4) EK reservoirs only work right in one configuration. Even with the rev 2, the whirl pool effect still exists and causes bleeding nightmares. Do not ever route your tubing into your reservoir into the top like I did. It will never fully bleed out all of the air. The EK reservoirs are best setup with the intake and outlet on the same plane.
5) Cut out holes in your motherboard tray for all of your mounting posts for your chipset/CPU waterblocks. It will make life much more tolerable in the event you ever need to adjust the mounting hardware. You'll save yourself a few rebuilds when you realize that one waterblock wasn't mounted correctly. Case in point: EK NF4 1.1 Great block, but world's :banana::banana::banana::banana:tiest mounting mechanism.
6) Ambient temps in the Horizon really suck ass due to the motherboard tray keeping all of the components near the top where all the warm air congregates. I wouldn't recommend getting any other top other than the original top that has mounts for 2 120mm fans. You really need to keep the air moving in this case. My U2 posts ambient temps that are on average 5-7C better than my Horizon and it has 2 less 120mm fans. Now a few C's may be due to the 8800GTX's and other components in the Horizon, but for the most part, I believe the aesthetics of the Horizon come at a cost.
7) When you're planning an over the top build, expect to run about $300-400 over budget and about 2 months over your planned timetable. Simple builds = less chance of running over budget and quicker up time. I probably have over $600 worth of components and accessories that were meant for this build that remain unused only because I wanted it to be a badass rig. Of course, new things always get released and somethings don't fit right and basically at the end of the day, you have an RD-30, PSU, a few waterblocks, a bunch of heat sinks, a PA160, etc sitting in a box.
Original Top - a must have for all Horizon owners imho
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...Horizon001.jpg
Horizon motherboard tray with cut outs for wire management
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...Horizon002.jpg
Motherboard with analogue and digital thermal sensors attached
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...Horizon003.jpg
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...Horizon004.jpg
3 x DDC-2's with Alphacool's top all attached to Mountain Mods HD brackets for mounting on Thermochill PA radiators
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...Horizon005.jpg
Custom cut/made acrylic reservoir holder for 3 x EK Reservoirs
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...Horizon006.jpg
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...Horizon007.jpg
3 x EK reservoirs with w/ Rev 2 bottom and original multioption tops
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...Horizon008.jpg
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...Horizon009.jpg
3 x DDC-2's w/ Alphacool's top attached to PA radiators
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...Horizon010.jpg
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...Horizon011.jpg
Horizon front with new Black Delrin Vandal Bulgin switches (blue on left, white on the right) and bottom 5.25" bay replaced with custom acrylic cutout to support a PA120.1 and 120mm fan
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...Horizon012.jpg
Top and side views of the Horizon with all of the components on the bottom compartment installed
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...Horizon013.jpg
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...Horizon014.jpg
All waterblocks installed onto their respective components
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...Horizon015.jpg
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...Horizon016.jpg
Front
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...orizon2001.jpg
Left side
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...orizon2002.jpg
Front and top sides http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...orizon2004.jpg
Top side
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...orizon2005.jpg
Right side
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...orizon2006.jpg
Internal view w/ completed wire management
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...orizon2007.jpg
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...orizon2008.jpg
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...orizon2009.jpg
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...orizon2010.jpg
BigNG in the bottom right hand corner
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...orizon2011.jpg
2 x MiniNG's and Sensorbus attached to underside of horizontal motherboard brace with velcro
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...orizon2013.jpg
holy crap....got some BIG $$$$ going on there...nice!
Finished with the pics. Hopefully I'll get some nighttime shots in tonight.
this build scares me.
"H2O Cooled" applique .... talk about understatement
Woaowwww :slobber: :slobber: :slobber:
Ranker you should consider trying watercooling dude :)
this build looks like a total piece of $hit...you should be ashamed of your modding skills and thought process...you need to send this to me immediately for a better evaluation.....*-)
i agree with Grinch...u should just give your rig away for free cause it's no god,but not to him,to ME :p:
Astonishing man.Good JOb :up:
wow!
I was looking the pics and thinking... it won't fit. I'm sure it won't fit everything and he will just part the system with some noobs, just like me :D
Amazing work!
I think I might get my feet wet one of these days.
Thanks guys. I'll keep you in mind if I ever get fed up with the rig.
Trust me. I thought it wouldn't fit for ages as well until I finally managed to use a crowbar to cram it all inside.
Wow !!!! I'm just preparing for my first water cooling build ... DarthBeavis turned me on to Mountain Mods, so I'm going with the U2-UFO Opti-1230 case. I'm thinking maybe Ranker could just send me his new rig and I could forego all the uncertainty I am about to face :)
I thoroughly enjoy all of my MM builds. The only piece of advice I have is to NOT get carried away in thinking you'll have all the room in the world. Upon my first U2, I thought "wow so much room, I'll buy more stuff to fill it up"....
It doesn't work that way. It'll house the standard watercooling setup easily. However, don't go overboard as the thing fills up quickly when you realize there's not much wall/floor space to work with.
WOW just WOW. Damn impressive. I'm convinced I want a MM Horizon case. Though I may see about getting 2 sets of 3 120mm holes in the front panel. I have a question about your pump mounts. First looks real tight how you mounted them in the drive bays like that, How are those mounts for vibration and noise? It looks like maybe rubber spacers between the pumps and rails? And the third connection to your pumps are those temperature sensors, or some kind of flow sensor?
Also How do you like the 8800's with the full blocks? I am thinking of getting the BGF 8800's with the water blocks attached. This will be my first attempt at a water cooled system so still gathering ideas and information. I want a relatively quiet system, with the option available to me to OC it at the expense of noise.
Wow Looks great.
Looks very cramped in there when packed out but stll looks amazing
Oh oh and what hd block is that?How restrictive is it? I might get a couple and do a third loop sb,hd x 2, could a single rad cool all that well?Also does 1 hd block take 1 drive bay?
cheers
ranker,
I have the bigNG, sensorbus and those exact temp probes from PPCs and have not had any problems.
From the tone of your message, they worked for a while and then stopped?
Not sure what to tell you. How many of these have you tried? Did you try to put it on your BigNG directly or only on the sensorbus?
Could always try this:
http://www.mcubed-tech.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=85
Are you saying this due to your water cooling ideology or is there objective reasoning behind the suggestions??
There's really no performance difference between an EK reservoir nor a Swiftech one. Microres' bleed faster than all other reservoirs, but other than that, why the no-no on the EK's?
Why get rid of the EK NF4 1.1? I get better temps with the EK NF4 1.1. Remember that before I purchased the complete EK set, I had MCW30's on each. Restriction is a moot point because the difference between the two are miniscule and they're both isolated on a meaningless 3rd loop.
The Horizon has its pros and cons. However, you might as well tell people to not use BTX cases altogether.
Why remove the fan grills? It's either that or the traditional wire frame grills.
More pics:
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...orizon3001.jpg
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...orizon3002.jpg
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...orizon3003.jpg
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...orizon3004.jpg
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...orizon3005.jpg
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...orizon3006.jpg
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...orizon3007.jpg
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...orizon3008.jpg
The pumps are mounted to the 3.5" MM bay brackets utilizing rubber vibrational dampeners.
It's a water temp probe in the 3rd opening on the Alphacool top. It lets me monitor water temps without having to introduce a completely stiff brass T into the loop, making tube routing much harder.
The EK FC's are the best FC blocks I've owned. Mind you I haven't picked up the Swiftech Stealth rev 2's yet. However, I refuse to use any alu in my loops and won't use their blocks out of principle. I'd stay away from the build in blocks on the BFG's as they're made by DD. DD's 8800 blocks have piss poor quality when compared to others. I've purchased the blocks in the past and ebayed them after I got my MCW60's/D-Tek GFX's/EK FC's. My friend Spersky, who's build you can find on these boards, toasted one of his ultra cards due to a microfracture leak from the block. Luckily, newegg was kind enough to RMA the card.
Oh it's definitely packed. I spent as much time as I could cleaning up the cables and wires but realized there's no place for them anywhere. However, I did bring this upon myself by intentionally seeing how much I could fit into one MM case.
You can find the type of HD blocks I have in my sig or the logs. Both were purchased from PPC's. I'm not sure how restrictive the acrylic single HD blocks are as it has a zig-zag water pattern. However, the dual bay HD Silencer/waterblock is almost an exact copy of the DD bay. In essence it's just 2 90 elbow's. I can't imagine that block to be too restrictive. If you're throwing all of that stuff on a loop of its own, then to hell with restriction. =)
The probes never worked for my BigNG nor my Sensorbus. I had utilized them in the past with standalone LCD read outs and they worked fine. However, they refuse to work with my BigNG when I connected them.
Thanks something to think about. I had figured why by a air cooled card if I was just going to rip the fans off anyway. I will look for more info on those DD blocks, where did you find single width 8800 cards, all the ones I have seen had the double back plane from the cooler, is that something I can just get aftermarket or does evga sell a fanless single width card?