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If those barbs are Nylon, they will not snap. Nylon is stronger than steel. Your more likely to snap a metal barb than a nylon one. If they are hard plastic then yeah, they can snap. I'm with Iany on the plastic. They provide more sealing area and are just easier to use.
How can I tell if the barbs are nylon or plastic.
They came as standard with the rad, so hopefully Thermochill ship out nylon barbs with their rads - or are the barbs provided by the retailer and they use whatever?
i read somewhere else that thermochill allows vendors to supply their own barbs and buy the thermos without barbs. you would need to ask the vendor who sold it or did you buy it straight from thermo?
No, got it from Danger Den.Quote:
Originally Posted by dem1an
OK, just checked their web site, they only have these available, so I imagine the ones I received are plastic.
I suppose I will give them a go and form my own opinion of them. I will have to remember to not be brutish when pushing & pulling tubing onto them, that's all.
i would suggest ordering some G3/8 metal high flow barbs from petra's too.
well its your opinion that really counts. plastic/nylon or metal, you decide.
OK,
Small update tonight.
Boiled up some demineralised water, filled up the rad and shook the crap out of it, emptied, did it again, and again, and again, and again, and again, and again.
Burnt my hands a bit even though I had heavy duty gloves.
Tools of the trade---
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/34s.jpg
Will do it a bit more tonight, maybe pick up some vinegar tomorrow and do a couple of flushes with that as well, alternating with demineralised water.
The emptied water on each occasion didn't seem very bad at all - funny that..
I might pour the water into a clear glass container next time and gauge the clarity of the water then I suppose.
Geoff,
I have built quite a few systems. Never nce have I kinked a barb while using brute force, let alone snap one.
do these g3/8 plastic/nylon barbs come out only long ones or are there actually short ones available.
there is actually no problems with these long barbs on other setups, but on my externally mounted PA, longer barbs would result in a little longer tubing.
(my rad is mounted out back, with barbs facing out at the moment.)
I'm going to give the barbs a try out. Alternative is to order something else, cop the postage and wait time.Quote:
Originally Posted by IanY
I'm sure they will be alright, otherwise they wouldn't be sold...
I've kinked mine that were attached to my Swiftech MCR220QP. Plastic ones make it so hard to attach and especially remove since they bend with the pressure/torque that you apply. I had to bend it so hard that my plastic barbs had a permanent bend. Go chrome and never look back.Quote:
Originally Posted by GeoffP
Well,
Couple of things to report.
Had a moment of weakness and ordered the AquaXtreme 3/8 > 1/2" Barbs from Petras, plus some PT Nuke and a bit more tubing as well.
That will take a few days to get here, so no building this weekend.
That is a good thing as I couldn't do anything anyways. My left knee has decided to pack it in, and the pain killers really stuffs with your head (drugs are bad, okaaaaaaaaaeeeee - my head is really spaced out right now :rolleyes: )
I must say that Quoc absolutely ROCKS. I rang him up this morning my time (which would have been late afternoon at Petra's). Asked for some advice which was provided very politely. Sent an email querying postage, received a reply very quickly. Payed using PayPal and got a USPS tracking number from Quoc late evening (Petras time). FANTASTIC SERVICE. My goods will ship Friday, so maybe hit my office mid next week - maybe my knee might be a bit better (probably not - need a knee replacement :p: )
Contrary to what the army says, running on hard roads in boots with a heavy backpack is NOT good for your knees...
Everyone have a great weekend :D now where are the rest of my drugs
Wow great build Geoff, I hope maybe one day to build similar :toast:
Re Lock-On, I'm glad some others found it hard/steep learning curve, I thought it was just me = dumb :D
These are the best barbs for PA120.3Quote:
Originally Posted by alpha0ne
http://store.over-clock.com/Barbs.html
It is a wee bit hard. Currently I only fly the Warthog & the Eagle. Way too much to learn to adequately pilot all the aircraft :)Quote:
Originally Posted by alpha0ne
As posted in another thread, I set about changing over one of my GPU's last Sunday.
Here it is in its fancy overcoat with all the bits ready to go:
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/35s.jpg http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/36s.jpg
And the important bit, the back of the cards where the screws are:
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/37s.jpg
Tried out the bracket - DIDN'T FIT!! (excuse the blurriness)
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/38s.jpg
Performance PC's didn't send the 2 x G80 brackets that I ordered with the MCW60's - bugger - no more work on Sunday.
Ended up getting the G80's from PCCaseGear in Melbourne on Monday. Would have taken too long to wait for PPC's to send them out.
Ssssoooooooo, onto tonight, bit more time on my hands.
Got my AquaXtreme 3/8 > 1/2" Barbs from Petras (Once again a huge thank you to Quoc [YOU ROCK MAN]) - Ordered them on Thursday (my time), got them Monday (my time) - OUTSTANDING. Wish Petra's was in Melbourne :p:
NB: Also got TWO pens :D
Action photos of barbs before and after fitting:
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/43s.jpg http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/44s.jpg I am going to buy some gloss black paint and spray the rad before I fit it as well.
Was going to fit the Scythe fans into the rad shroud to work out cabling requirements for the fans, bugger me, the fan self tapping screws diameter is too large for the pre-drilled shroud holes.
(very blurry photo again - got to work out the macro mode on my camera)
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/45s.jpg I will have to drill the holes out a bit to fit the screws I suppose.
Pushing on, I thought I would sleeve the 3 fans going into the rad shroud.
As always, take a photo or write down where everything is BEFORE you pull it apart:
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/39s.jpg
Trying to work out best use of cable length:
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/41s.jpg It's amazing how black paint shows dirt, fluff, etc - LOL
Working out the cable run inside the rad shroud:
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/46s.jpg http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/47s.jpg Got it sussed... everything has to come out the end.
That means some cable extensions. Also, 2 fans will paralleled together to run off 1 fan control point on the fan controller.
A bit of soldering and sleeving fun.
First the single fan:
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/48s.jpg http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/50s.jpg And no, I don't smoke - bought the gas lighter for the cable shrink stuff.
Then the dual fans - I have circled where the solder joints are. Thought they were the best location for neatness:
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/51s.jpg http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/52s.jpg
That's it for tonight, might get some more done tomorrow however it's a holiday in Oz (ANZAC Day).
Probably go down to the beach with the family, have some fish and chips for lunch - yummee :slobber:
GeoffP, the fans goes on top of the shroud, not inside.
rad=>shroud=>fans
The fans fit perfectly between the rad and the shroud, thought that was the place for them to go :confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by septim
Can someone who has this setup please post a picture - seems weird to me to put the fans on the outside of the shroud when they seem to fit perfectly underneath it.
Not questioning you at all septim :p: just seems weird to me.
Also, does it matter if they do fit as per my picture, is it going to effect the pulling performance of the fans?
Septim is absolutely right. Fans go on top of the shroud, which go on to the radiator. The shrouds are meant to keep the fans some distance from the radiator, and maintain a relatively airtight seal.
They way you have set them up is counterproductive and may even worsen the performance.
yes it will affect cooling/pulling performance, the purpose of the shroud is to have additional space between fan and radiator so as to prevent deadspots when pulling air through radiator.
OK. Thanks guys.
Just to confirm that this is the correct config:
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/49s.jpg
It's a great thing to have forums like this.
Helps keep us newbies pointed in the right direction and hopefully not make dumb decisions :p:
I think gasket goes under shroud
If in doubt, RTFM
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...structions.gif
Should have done this in the first case.
As I'm doing a pull config, I think it should go fan>gasket>shroud>rad>case>fan grill
I also have some 120mm fan filters - got them, just not sure if I really need them.
If I used them, I think they would go rad>filters>case>fan grill <--- Is this OK?
Do filters reduce air flow much? They would make it easier to keep crap out of the rad and inside of case, very easy to clean with a vacuum cleaner as well.
I also have a second gasket. I could do fan>gasket>shroud>rad>2nd gasket>case>filter>fan grill
Is it more of an advantage to have the rad hard up against the case (metal to metal) for better heat transference & dissipation into the case?
sure no problem with sandwiching a filter there.
The Zalman ZM-MFC1 6-Channel Fan Controller I'm using can only handle a maximum of 7W per channel.Quote:
Originally Posted by soccerswim8
The Scythe are 2.4W per fan. Three fans off one connector would be 7.2W - too much for one channel.
could/did you test that it won't work with 3 fans in one channel? the most will probably be that a fan won't start.