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Guys it weird the max volatge i can get for vmod is 2.93 in winbond. When i select 2.8 in bios i get 2.93 in winbond and MBM. I saw u guys getting max 3.2 volts. Im using a radio shack 330 ohm resistor. Should i be adding a Cerment Pot to get higher voltages for memory?
The higher the resistance the higher the voltage......this is why the use of a ceremet pot was advocated over a fixed.....making it a single job mod.Quote:
Originally posted by NyCUndaGrounD
Guys it weird the max volatge i can get for vmod is 2.93 in winbond. When i select 2.8 in bios i get 2.93 in winbond and MBM. I saw u guys getting max 3.2 volts. Im using a radio shack 330 ohm resistor. Should i be adding a Cerment Pot to get higher voltages for memory?
PLease correct me if im wrong but is this how i hook up the pot and the resistor to the baord.
NyCUndaGrounD,Quote:
Originally posted by NyCUndaGrounD
PLease correct me if im wrong but is this how i hook up the pot and the resistor to the baord.
If you use a pot, use a 1K Ohm pot, that way it should be sufficent for all your voltage needs without the need of the fixed resistor in series (as in your diagram).
If you decide that more voltages is what you need then remove the fixed 330 ohm resistor from the board and solder a strand of wire to each pad, and then solder the pot to the other end of the wires.
Another consideration would be to start the pot with 400 ohms and gradually dial up the resistance (voltage) as you require since 300 ohm is not yielding the voltages you need.
HTH.
Great pic is that with macro? Can't believe the sharpness.;)Quote:
Originally posted by NyCUndaGrounD
PLease correct me if im wrong but is this how i hook up the pot and the resistor to the baord.
NyC, no you need to hook the center pin to the trace from the leg of the chip and one of the outside posts on the VR go to ground, make sure when you set your VR that you use the same ground.
It looks like in your pic that you have nothing attached to the center pin.
I can reach 3.2v
FUGGER and Ny
Did you or are you doing the VTT mod if so could you post some pics? I'd like to do it but I'm not sure what a via is, BMG referred to this in his post.
I didn't do that mod, I have been happy with the performance with those 2 mods.
I guessed I missed something. I thought the mod with removing the r50 and the vtt were all the mods for the IC7.
got the pot at last, but just summat I need to check afore we go for attempt # 3.
Can you pls confirm:
1) Set DDRv to default.
2) Hack board up
3) Set pot @ ???Ohms.
40 Press "on" & pray!
Beers all round again!
Cheers! :toast:
1) Yup.Quote:
Originally posted by Kin Hell
got the pot at last, but just summat I need to check afore we go for attempt # 3.
Can you pls confirm:
1) Set DDRv to default.
2) Hack board up
3) Set pot @ ???Ohms.
40 Press "on" & pray!
Beers all round again!
Cheers! :toast:
2) Yup.
3) It was recommended to start at about 300 ohms.
3b) **you may already know this** The pot has has 3 legs, the middle is common and use of either one of the others will determine whether you turn clockwise to increase or decrease resistance ( on this mod increase resitance increases v). Determine which is which before modding.
4) a BIG Yup.
HTH
P^N
Will a 10k pot 15-turn be alright for this mod?
K....set bios to default voltages & fsb. (ddr @ 2.6) Rebooted the PC with these settings twice before shutting down.
Set Poxy blue ceremet pot at 300Ohms accross centre pin and pin in-line with adjuster screw. This allows the Ohms to increase as u turn the Screw clockwise.
Soldered center ceremet wire to R50 pad closest to Winbond chips and the ceremet pot wire in-line with adjuster screw to the R50 pad furthest away from Winbond Pad.
Did Item 4, and despite COPIUS amounts of praying, the fuggin board will N O T fire up.
W T F ? ? ? ? ?
Its still down atm....posting from a Cyrix PC ffs...any ideas Pita ?
This is seriously pissin me off now!? :mad:
Kin Hell,Quote:
Originally posted by Kin Hell
K....set bios to default voltages & fsb. (ddr @ 2.6) Rebooted the PC with these settings twice before shutting down.
Set Poxy blue ceremet pot at 300Ohms accross centre pin and pin in-line with adjuster screw. This allows the Ohms to increase as u turn the Screw clockwise.
Soldered center ceremet wire to R50 pad closest to Winbond chips and the ceremet pot wire in-line with adjuster screw to the R50 pad furthest away from Winbond Pad.
Did Item 4, and despite COPIUS amounts of praying, the fuggin board will N O T fire up.
W T F ? ? ? ? ?
Its still down atm....posting from a Cyrix PC ffs...any ideas Pita ?
This is seriously pissin me off now!? :mad:
Let me get this straight.
You have effectively replaced R50 with the ceremet pot adjusted to 300 ohms ? And you have used both R50 pads as well ?
If this is so, then I'm stumped as to why your board won't fire up !!??
It took me two attempts to mod my board, the 1st did'nt fire up because I chose a ground that didnt work, the 2nd I just soldered the two ends to both R50 pads and evey thing fired up fine.
If you have a multimeter handy just check that both of the pot legs have an electrical connection with the board.(dont need to fire up the board for this)
Sorry if I can't be of any help :(
Anybody else have any ideas ???
You have effectively replaced R50 with the ceremet pot adjusted to 300 ohms ? And you have used both R50 pads as well ?Quote:
Originally posted by Pita^Norf
Kin Hell,
Let me get this straight.
You have effectively replaced R50 with the ceremet pot adjusted to 300 ohms ? And you have used both R50 pads as well ?
If this is so, then I'm stumped as to why your board won't fire up !!??
It took me two attempts to mod my board, the 1st did'nt fire up because I chose a ground that didnt work, the 2nd I just soldered the two ends to both R50 pads and evey thing fired up fine.
If you have a multimeter handy just check that both of the pot legs have an electrical connection with the board.(dont need to fire up the board for this)
Sorry if I can't be of any help :(
Anybody else have any ideas ???
Yes & Yes
Continuity to the board thro both legs.
Un bloody believable tbh!
:mad:
Mod abandoned...cant be fuggin arsed!
Is there any way that a future BIOS update for the IC7 would allow for higher vdimm voltage?
Apparnetly not m8y.......Quote:
Originally posted by n6b72g
Is there any way that a future BIOS update for the IC7 would allow for higher vdimm voltage?
ABit have produced some fantastic boards over the years, but they have always been slack on the voltages. Even here on the IC7 series, we have Crazy VCORE voltages available that are a complete waste of time for the Piv Die size. We all know that anything over 1.75v for long periods of time can destroy the CPU.
Unless im mistaken, Corsairs XMS memory is guaranteed to 2.9v, so ABit only going to 2.85 undercuts what Corsair rate their stock Memory at. Dont forget too, in real terms, when u set the bios at 2.85, its only actually hitting around 2.8 to 2.82 actual.
With regard to my own issues here, if I slap my VDIMM @ 2.85 and the AGP at its MAX, my VTT goes out of spec accoring to Hardware Monitor. I did wonder if this might be why my board wont accept the MOD for VDIMM.
This is a nock on thing for me, as I needed the Volt Mod in conjunction with my Vapo Chill. Air cooled even in my Lian Li PC75 case is about as Hot as i want to go at 225 fsb. Around 62DegC with stock heatsink. Maybe the PAL Aplha would take a couple off, but facing making an Aluminium tray to house the Vapo in the Lian Li when i cant do this VDIMM mod is gonna be a waste of time tbh.
My chip will do 265 fsb under the vapo, but I have all the bandwiidth i need at 225 with 1:1 mem timings. Such a shame I cant back a Cooler & faster CPU with faster 1:1 timings.
Using the 1.4 or 1.5 bios, I run 225fsb 1:1 ratio in Street Racer mode and Refresh Cycle Time at Enhanced. Setting the Overall timing to "By Speed" yeilds timings of 2-3-2-5 & bandiwth of 5865Mb/sec Buffered. 2 x 256Mb Corsair XMS 3500 moduels- CMX256A-3500C2PT
Setting the timings manually, ie Slacker in order to up the FSB is a waste of time. Prime95 falls flat on its face.
Hey ho hey!.... :rolleyes:
*edit* CPU-z v1.18 tells me my memory is only 3200 ???
http://www.charlesleach.fsworld.co.uk/Pics/XMS3500.JPG
Can anybody show me a pic of their vmod with pot and resistor soldered to the board. Thanks
Thanks for the reply Kin Hell. Im trying to find away around having to solder to the board, as I dont have the steadiest hands in the world.
I dont have a digicam atm....but if you use a 1K pot (varible resistor) you don't need a fixed resistor as well.Quote:
Originally posted by NyCUndaGrounD
Can anybody show me a pic of their vmod with pot and resistor soldered to the board. Thanks
If you are unsure about doing it, take it to any reputable Electronics Co. Im sure they would do the work for you & only charge a minimal fee! :)Quote:
Originally posted by n6b72g
Thanks for the reply Kin Hell. Im trying to find away around having to solder to the board, as I dont have the steadiest hands in the world.
Good luck!
So u mean i just need to hook up the 1k pot and i wont need a resistor to do the vmod. Sorry but im kinda new to this vmodding thing.Quote:
Originally posted by Pita^Norf
I dont have a digicam atm....but if you use a 1K pot (varible resistor) you don't need a fixed resistor as well.
The 1k pot is the resistor, and thats all you need. The 1k pot will then allow you to adjust the resistance from 0 Ohms to 1000 Ohms.Quote:
Originally posted by NyCUndaGrounD
So u mean i just need to hook up the 1k pot and i wont need a resistor to do the vmod. Sorry but im kinda new to this vmodding thing.
I can't get the resistor off the board. How long do you guys heat it up? When I take off the soldering iron, the solder immediately hardens again and the resistor is again stuck.
Did you use pliers or something?
Also putting a wick against the side doesn't do anything for me. It doesn't suck op the soldering or anything.
And does someone have a picture how it is supposed to look after having taken off the resistor, but before soldering something new to it? So, a picture off the clean pads...?